Storm drainage from the roof of a house with a pitched roof: how to properly equip a drain. Elements of the roof drainage system

The gutter system is the protection of walls and foundations from precipitation drained from the slopes of the roof. With its help, water is discharged into a storm sewer or into containers. Of course, one cannot speak of 100% protection here, but the bulk of the water is still removed. Therefore, in all houses today installed gutters. These are no longer those simple pipe structures made of galvanized steel that could not withstand even three seasons. Today, manufacturers offer metal and plastic structures which will serve faithfully for many years. By the way, metal gutters for roofs are treated with paint by powder coating, which is a fairly reliable protection.

The roof drain device is a tray structure located under the roof eaves, and pipe vertical structures located at the corners of the building. Although if the length of the cornice is large enough, then intermediate risers are also installed, the distance between which is not less than 5 m.

Features of the gutter roof structure

When it comes to gutter installation for pitched roofs with your own hands, it should be noted that the installation process itself is actually not very complicated. The main thing is to strictly follow the rules for installing and fastening all elements of the system. What you need to pay attention to.

• Trays are installed and attached to special brackets, which in turn can be installed either on the edges rafter legs, or on the last lower element of the crate, or on the frontal board (installed on the wall of the house).
• The distance between the brackets is 50-60 cm.
• The distance of the extreme funnel from the corner of the building is 25-30 cm. Accordingly, the pipe riser will be located here.
• Since the tray structure is gravity flow, it is necessary to maintain a certain slope angle towards the riser. It is 2-5%. If we transfer this indicator to millimeters, then we get that one edge relative to the other should be located 2-5 mm lower, based on one running meter structure length.
• Relative to the cornice, the trays must be installed so that the edge of the cornice coincides with the middle of the system itself. Small deviations are allowed. It is very important to ensure that the water that has entered the tray does not overflow or splash.
• Risers can be located both vertically and at an angle. In principle, a slight slope is required to drain water, so there are no strict restrictions in this regard.
• Risers are attached to the surface of the walls special devices which are called collars. The distance between them: 180-200 cm. If the length of the riser is more than 10 m, then the distance between the clamps must be reduced to 150 cm.
• Be sure to install a drain elbow at the end of the riser. So the distance between the blind area and the edge of the drain should be 25 cm.

Now, with regard to the volume of drained water. It is clear that the larger the volume, the larger the elements should be. drainage system in terms of their diameter and width, not their length. There is a certain dependence of these two indicators on the area of ​​slopes along which water moves.

• If the roof slope area does not exceed 50 m², then an element with a width of 100 mm can be used for trays, an element with a diameter of 75-80 mm for riser pipes.
• Increasing the area to 100 m² requires other dimensions: width - 150 mm, diameter - 100 mm.
• And over 100 m²: width - 200 mm, diameter - 150 mm.

Calculation of the number of roof drain elements

It is not very difficult to carry out the calculation with your own hands. After all, everything depends on the shape of the roof and its dimensions. It is clear that outdoor drain will be installed under the eaves, so you can accurately calculate the number of required trays. For this, the length of the cornice is measured, which is divided by 3 m of the length of the tray element. Here, it doesn’t matter if the roof is gable, single-pitched or multi-pitched, the cornice itself is important, or rather, its length.

As for the pipes, you will have to take into account the height of their installation site, as well as approximately calculate the number of risers that will ensure the drainage of water from the roof trays. Everything is clear with the height, there should not be any problems here. Measuring it with your own hands is not a problem. To do this, you only need a tape measure.

As for the number of risers of the drain, then you will have to take into account some positions related to the size of the roof itself. But experts recommend not to make this dimension more than 16 m. Simply, trays and risers will not be able to cope with a large volume of water.

The number of funnels and drain outlets will be equal to the number of risers. If an external drain is installed on a shed roof, then there will be one or two plugs, it all depends on the length of the eaves. On the gable roof there will be four. They will not be on four-pitched ones at all, at the corners of the building you will have to install bends connecting the tray structure to single system water drainage.

Do-it-yourself roof drainage system installation

First of all, a tray structure is assembled under the roof eaves. To do this, you will have to break the installation line into sections. In each section, the process is carried out in the same way.

• The highest point is determined, where the bracket is installed, fixed to the supporting structure with self-tapping screws.
• The slope is calculated, for example, for a length of 10 m. The lower point will be located 2-5 cm below the upper one. Therefore, the lower point is connected to the installed bracket with a fishing line. Unforgettably required distance from the corner of the building.
• We install the bottom fastener with our own hands.
• Now the intermediate brackets are mounted.
• Trays are laid on them with a slight offset, that is, all elements are overlapped. The size of the overlap is determined by the manufacturer itself, this is indicated by a change in the width of the trays at the edges.

Attention! It will be ideal if the docking joints of the two trays are processed silicone sealant. The tightness of the roof drain is one of the important components of the quality of the final result.

Now you can collect the risers of the drain with your own hands. This process is carried out from the bottom up. Therefore, you should first decide on the installation angle. If these are vertical risers, then their installation does not cause problems. You just need to install a plumb line at the funnel attachment point, which will show the pipe installation line. If the gutter will be mounted under a slope, then it is necessary to draw an inclined line on the wall of the house, along which the installation of the gutter system will be carried out.

Now you can proceed to the installation and fastening of the clamps with your own hands. We start from the surface of the soil, but do not forget that a drain outlet will be installed below. Therefore, we will have to take into account its dimensions and the distance from its edge to the blind area. Manufacturers are currently offering great amount clamp designs, so pick up under required size, color and shape is not very difficult. The clamps are fastened to the wall with ordinary self-tapping screws. Doing it with a drill and with your own hands is not a problem.

Roof drainage pipes are products with a socket connection system. Therefore, the installation is carried out with a wide diameter upwards. In this case, it is recommended to loosely plant the pipes into each other. A small expansion gap should remain. This is in the case of linear expansion of products, which occurs under the influence of temperature changes. Compensation gap - 1-2 cm. Is it necessary to lubricate the connecting planes of the pipes with a sealant? In principle, it is not necessary, but even if you lubricate it, it will increase the quality of the sealing of the riser.

Which is better: a metal roof drain or a plastic one?

This question is being asked today by many private developers. You can answer it only if you analyze the advantages and disadvantages of the two varieties. For example, a metal gutter system for pitched roofs is more expensive than a plastic one. Metal elements can only be cut with scissors or a hacksaw for metal. Plastic can be cut with a grinder.

The drain is an important part roofing system any building. The presence of a drainage system provides a lot of advantages, the main of which is to ensure the safety and increase the service life of the frame and finishing elements of the building. Therefore, it is very important to choose the right and correctly install the gutter system already at the time of installation of the roofing.

Is it necessary to install a gutter on the roof?

Comfort in a residential building largely depends on the careful arrangement of the roof. Ventilation of the under-roof space, hydro and vapor barrier are important to ensure optimal living conditions. The drain is also important system to prevent damage load-bearing structures building.

Gutter systems protect structural elements buildings from destruction and can be part of the design solution for the entire exterior finish

The roof of a private house always has one or more slopes. Precipitation descends along this inclined surface, negatively affecting the foundation of the building near the building. You can prevent the destruction of the foundation of the house and other unpleasant consequences with the help of a drainage system that performs the following functions:

• protection of the foundation from destruction by diverting water to a specially equipped place;
• wastewater control and prevention of roof rot and load-bearing elements, exclusion of leaks of roofing material;
• complementing the appearance of the building in accordance with the overall design concept.

Drainage systems are made from durable materials characterized by strength and durability. Usually they serve until the next replacement of the roofing.

Roof drain device

The efficiency of the drainage system is due to a well-thought-out design, which involves the presence of several basic elements. It is these details that create a drain, through which water is drained from the roof.

A standard drain consists of drain gutters and pipes, a system of fastenings to the facade of the building and various accessories.

Each element performs a specific function, and in combination they are designed for the main thing - the removal of water from the roof of the house. Features of the purpose of the elements that make up the drain are expressed as follows:

• the gutter serves to conduct water to the place of its discharge into the downpipe;
• a catchment funnel is necessary to redirect the water flow from the gutter to the pipe;
• a downpipe is the final part of the system from which water enters the sewer;
• brackets and clamps are needed to fix the components of the drain to the wall of the house;
• pipe tip, coupling, plug, protective mesh are additional elements.

The round shape of gutters, funnels and pipes allows you to quickly remove the required amount of water from the roof surface. This reduces the negative impact of moisture on the bearing elements and ensures the integrity of the structure.

Gutter system options

When arranging a residential building, you can use different types roof drainage systems. The complexes are classified according to the material of manufacture, type of construction, mounting and installation options.

Drains of an organized type: description and norms

One of the options for organizing a drainage system is organized drains, which are a collection of gutters, pipes and other elements. They are connected into a whole system, which is mounted on the outside of the building on the walls using brackets. Water, passing through gutters and pipes, enters the storm sewer or well, designed to further remove moisture outside the site.

Organized drains in private homes are usually arranged outside the building.

SNiP allows the installation of organized drains on flat or pitched roofs of any type. The code of norms and rules also implies the following features of the arrangement of organized systems:

• for each section of the roof where there are expansion joints or walls, at least two funnels must be installed to ensure prompt water drainage;
• drain risers cannot be mounted in the thickness of the outer walls. Heating of drainage elements is carried out taking into account safety requirements;
• funnel bowls should be firmly fixed on the wall with metal clamps;
• the distance between the outer pipes of the drainage complex must be at least 24 m, and the cross-sectional area is determined at the rate of 1.5 cm 2 for each square meter roof area.

An organized version of water drainage systems can be of several types. The most popular way to organize drains is to install drain gutters. Products are semicircular elements that are connected together to form a line of the required length. You can connect the gutters with a special glue or coupling. In the first case, the parts are fastened securely, but the design is non-separable. Couplings are more practical and provide the necessary rigidity of the drainage channel.

The gutters have a smooth inner surface along which the flow water is coming as quickly as possible, without encountering any obstacles on the way

For flat roofs, a storm funnel is often used, which has round shape. Water enters the opening of the funnel, passes through the pipes and flows into the sewer. Depending on the roof area, the amount of precipitation in the region and other factors, the number of funnels to be installed on the roof is determined. In this case, you can organize two options for the drainage system. The traditional method involves the gravity flow of water through pipes, and with gravity-vacuum precipitation passes through a system with a siphon. At the same time, a small number of funnels are installed on the roof.

AT traditional systems the flow velocity is determined only by the angle of the chute, in more complex gravitational-vacuum high level precipitation turns on the siphon and significantly increases the intensity of drainage

A roof drip is a bar that is fixed to the pediment or cornice of the building and protects the facade of the house from moisture. The principle of operation of the drip is that water from the roof enters the plate, and then into the gutter. The sludge then passes through the drainage system and into the sewer.

At correct installation the dripper protects the rafters and the entire roof overhang from getting wet

Unorganized drainage

An unorganized type of drain is only a roof with the correct slope, which allows moisture to freely flow down without affecting the facade of the building. In this case, water falls in close proximity to the foundation, which increases the risk of rotting the foundation. This drainage option is suitable for shed roofs with a slope towards the courtyard.

In the absence of a complex of gutters, water can get on the surface of the walls and on the foundation, and in winter time form large icicles

An unorganized drain is not suitable for residential buildings, as it does not provide effective water drainage. When creating such an option on other buildings, the features of SNiP should be taken into account:

• unorganized drains are allowed on buildings no higher than 5 floors;
• annual precipitation in the region should not exceed 300 mm/year;
• on the side of the building where the roof slope is facing, there should not be balconies, buildings, a driveway or a pedestrian road;
• the size of the peak of the roofing should not be less than 60 cm.

An unorganized type of drain is suitable for utility buildings, as it cannot provide good protection residential houses.

Gutter materials

Gutter systems are exposed to temperature extremes, high humidity, ultraviolet rays and other negative factors. Therefore, for the manufacture of gutters, funnels and other parts, practical materials are used to ensure the durability and strength of products. These requirements are met by several types of raw materials, which serve to create drains.

Metal gutters, which used to be the only possible solution, now have quite worthy competitors.

Features of plastic gutters

Of all the materials that serve as the basis for the production of gutters, plastic is the most budgetary. Such systems are available in different colors, have an aesthetic appearance and are easy to install. Plastic products are characterized by low weight, which allows not to load the roof. Therefore, such gutters and pipes can be mounted on different variants roofs

Plastic gutter well suited for soft roofing

To Work with plastic elements draining is pretty easy. Parts are interconnected with glue or special couplings. Plastic systems have the following advantages:

• smooth surface that allows water to run off quickly;
• lower cost than metal gutters;
• low noise level (up to 27 dB);
• possibility of operation in the temperature range from -40 to +50 °C;
• easy replacement of individual elements;
• not susceptible to corrosion and decay.

The negative feature of cheap plastic gutters is low level strength. Such characteristics are characteristic of low-quality products, so you need to choose only rigid and durable gutters, pipes and other elements.

Metal gutters

Metal roof gutters are characterized by high strength and durability. The technical characteristics of the equipment depend on what metal served as the basis for the drain. Copper options are the most durable, and gutters made of roofing steel with an anti-corrosion coating are more available. There are also lightweight aluminum gutters, as well as zinc and titanium products.

Metal gutters are more expensive than plastic ones, but they are stronger and more durable.

The main advantage of metal gutters in comparison with structures made of other materials is their durability. The service life of gutters made of metal significantly exceeds the duration of the period of use of plastic elements. Other advantages of metal drainage systems are as follows:

• resistance to mechanical stress, climatic conditions, temperature differences;
• various options for fixing gutters;
• protection against corrosion: copper products are generally not subject to rust, while other options have a special anti-corrosion coating;
• possibility of dyeing in any color special paints for metal.

The disadvantages of metal gutters and funnels are high cost and more complex installation. The most practical are copper structures that have a service life of more than 100 years. In other cases, it is important to purchase systems that have a dense and thick anti-corrosion coating, as well as high specifications.

Video: installation of a metal drain

Galvanized roof gutter

Galvanized complexes for draining water from the roof are lightweight and practical. They combine low weight, service life of several decades and simple installation.

Galvanized systems have all the advantages of metal gutters, but they do not have a very attractive appearance and fail faster.

Wear-resistant galvanized pipes are mounted quickly using clamps and other simple fasteners. The advantages of galvanized gutters are also as follows:

• resistance to deformation, temperature changes, humidity;
• frost resistance down to -60 ° C and UV resistance;
• fire resistance when exposed to direct flame;
• light weight, eliminating a significant load on the roof;
• low cost with good technical characteristics.

The negative features of galvanized systems are expressed in a low degree of sound insulation. Therefore, it is important to take into account the technology of fastening elements to the roof and facade.

Video: installing a galvanized gutter

How to choose a gutter for a roof

When choosing a water drainage system for the roof of a private house, one should take into account the amount of precipitation typical for the region. If this figure is quite low, for example, 200-350 mm / year, then plastic or lightweight aluminum structures can be used for the roof. With rainfall exceeding 400-500 mm / year, drains made of more durable materials, such as steel or copper, are optimal.

Copper systems have the longest service life and look very solid and prestigious.

Do right choice roof drainage systems can be based on the following recommendations:

• the appearance, shape and color of the product affect the design of the building and must comply with it;
• the dimensions of gutters, pipes and funnels are determined depending on the amount of precipitation;
• fasteners must firmly fix the gutter to the edge of the roof and other surfaces.

The main attention when choosing a drain should be given to the wall thickness of pipes and gutters. This indicator should not be less than 1 mm. It is also important to take into account high density and thickness of the anti-corrosion layer.

Popular gutter manufacturers

Many manufacturers represent gutter systems for roofs of various types. One of the most popular are Döcke gutters. Products are presented in various colors, resistant to mechanical and climatic influences. Döcke's products are divided into several product lines based on technical specifications, making it easy to choose.

The system manufacturer Döcke gives a 25-year warranty on its products.

TechnoNikol products are also in demand and are presented in a large assortment. Elements of gutters are easily interconnected, forming a strong and durable system. The company specializes in the manufacture plastic parts by modern technologies.

Plastic gutters from TechnoNIKOL are easy to install and look very attractive.

The company "Aquasystem" produces various kinds gutters, but one of the most popular options is a complex of steel and plastic. Appearance, specifications and size range of parts are varied, but all products are durable and easy to install.

Roof drain installation

Roof drains are different, but they are always necessary to ensure the safety of the roof and the supporting elements of the building. From quality, parameters and correct installation drainage depends on the effectiveness of its action, so it is important to first master the technology of fastening the elements and choose the right material.

Even a splash of light rain is enough to stain the finish of the facade, let alone a downpour. In this case, not only walls are under attack, water flows gather at the foundation, creating an “explosive” situation - soon enough, excess moisture will accumulate in the basement. Over time, it will begin to erode the soil and, as a result, cracks appear in the structures. These problems will help prevent reliable drainage.

The device of gutters from the roof involves the right choice of material, all necessary parts and.

Principle of operation

The optimal solution for draining water from the roof is an organized system, although its installation is associated with certain costs. For pitched roofs, external drains are used, mounted outside the house:

• gutters with the smallest limit slope of 2⁰;
• drain pipe and other elements.

Water from the slopes enters the gutter and begins to spill further into special ones. They, as a rule, are placed at the cornice overhangs with a step of 12–20 m. Then the water flows through external pipes installed outside along the walls of the house either into a “rainfall” or into drainage wells. Sometimes containers of very large volumes are installed for these purposes.

In old houses, you can find another effective system - parapet gutters. In a similar design, water is collected in one common tray. Arranged, as a rule, between the parapet walls, it is part of the roof structure. The parapet is made of metal, the water intake recess is insulated with a layer of bitumen.

Gutters are installed at the junctions of the roof slopes, they direct water into the cornice or parapet drain.

The device of gutters from the roof: the main elements

Gutter shape

Today, the manufacturer offers a large selection of gutter elements of various shapes. Depending on the project of a particular building, you can:

The last option is the most efficient. Resistance to loads and durability of parts are largely determined by the stiffeners in the design. However, in houses with a large area, located in areas with constantly heavy rainfall, square ones provide the best drainage. A large cross-sectional area significantly increases their throughput.

Profiled gutters are designed for houses of a certain shape. The complexity of the relief does not allow falling leaves or other debris to accumulate at its bottom, which undoubtedly prolongs the operational life of the resource.

Special corners allow you to go around the corners of the building. They are connected to each other by means of special connectors, and if it is necessary to exclude the flow of water in some place, plugs are installed along the edges.

Downspouts

The shape is divided into square and round. It is recommended to place them on the walls on the sunny side of the house. When choosing a form, one of the parameters plays a decisive role: the design of the building or its area.

If the building area is more than 200 m 2, and it was built in a region with an overestimated rainfall rate, it is recommended to install pipes with a square section.

Gutters and pipes must be identical in shape. Their package also includes special knees, curved in the lateral or frontal planes. Thanks to these elements, the pipes go around the protruding sections of the house. They are installed at a certain distance from the wall (more than 30–35 mm) using metal pins and clamps with grips. The pins must be galvanized, in extreme cases they are treated with anti-corrosion compounds.

In addition to these two main parts, the complete set of the drainage system also includes: corner connections, funnels, tees, brackets, clamps and other details.

Clamps are designed for fastening. Since they practically wrap around the pipes, the shape of the clamp must match their cross section.

A hook or holder is used in the case of mounting the latter to the roof, and its type determines. The hook must provide the slope necessary for the water to move freely in the direction of the water intake funnels.

The funnel in the outdoor system is designed to collect water.

All gutter parts must necessarily be of the same brand. Only then they are guaranteed to clearly correspond to each other and, if necessary, perform their functions properly.

By the way, when choosing, you should first calculate the number of required accessories. For example, the installation step of the mounting brackets varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. It can be both 50 cm and 80. Naturally, in the second option they will be needed less, which means that the system will cost less.

Gutter parameters are determined on the basis of the so-called effective roof surface area. Usually, knowing the shape of the roof, its value is found by the simplest geometric formulas. With a more rigorous approach, an accurate calculation is necessary, which should take into account:, roofing material, additional details, say, etc.

To facilitate calculations, most manufacturers offer special tables that help even non-professionals to independently determine how many main elements of the system are needed and what their size should be.

• For houses occupying an area with an area of ​​​​at most 100 m 2, drains with the following parameters are more suitable: pipe diameter - 70-100 mm, gutter width - 90-120 mm.
• If the area is more than 100 m 2, preference should be given to the following dimensions of the elements: the diameter of the first element is 95-100 mm, the width of the second is 120-130 mm. At the same time, each of the roof slopes is equipped with one gutter and one pipe, which, as a rule, is fixed at the corner of the building.
• For buildings occupying an area of ​​​​more than 150 m 2, two pipes are placed on each slope.

The drainpipe can also be placed in the center of the wall.

Water flowing from the roof as a result of precipitation is a load on the facade and foundation of the house, as well as on the blind areas built around the perimeter of the building. Under this load performance characteristics buildings are gradually decreasing. A drainage system will help solve the problem. This is a complex of gutters and pipes connected into one structure, with the help of which water is collected and drained from the roof slopes into the storm sewer. This is the main purpose of such a system.

The gutters are installed in a horizontal plane under the roof eaves at the level of the edge of the roofing material. Installation is carried out with a slight slope towards the downpipes to ensure the movement of water by gravity. Pipes are hollow vertical racks connected from above with gutters, and from below through water collectors - with storm sewers. In addition to the two main elements, the drainage system of the house also includes additional materials:

• funnels that collect and drain water from the gutters;
• plugs installed at the upper ends of the horizontal section;
• couplings or adapters that are used to connect individual gutters or pipes into a single network;
• brackets with which the gutters are attached to the roof structure of the building;
• clamps with which pipes are attached to the walls of the house.

The roof drainage system consists of several elements: gutters, pipes, funnels, drains, plugs, brackets and clamps

materials

Manufacturers today offer two types of materials from which drainage systems are made: plastic and metal. There are several groups in the category of metal products: from galvanized or of stainless steel, as well as aluminum and copper alloys.

Metal gutters

Gutter systems for galvanized steel roofs are in the greatest demand due to their low cost. The other three subgroups are expensive models- Not everyone can afford it. In its pure form, galvanized gutter elements have a number of disadvantages that reduce their demand: low service life and noise of water moving through gutters and pipes.

Manufacturers solved this problem by coating galvanized products with a polymer layer. It almost triples the service life and reduces the noise level. The thicker the polymer layer, the higher the quality characteristics of the drainage system. For processing external and internal surfaces gutter elements are used pural, polyester or plastisol.

The popularity of metal gutters is determined by two important characteristics: increased strength metal and operating temperature range from -50 to +120 degrees

Plastic gutters

The cheapest model plastic drain has a service life of up to 25 years. To positive characteristics plastic products relate:

• light weight;
• ease of installation using sealant or glue;
• variety of colors;
• good noise-absorbing qualities;
• neutrality to slightly aggressive environments.

There is only one drawback - the rupture of pipes if water is frozen in them.

Manufacturers today offer two types of plastic from which elements of drainage systems are made. These are polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and vinyl produced according to a special technology and recipe. Last at various degrees deformation does not crack, does not break and accepts original shape and dimensions after unloading. Therefore, drains from this material are used in northern regions, where the snow load disables even metal structures.

Plastic gutter provides the system of water drainage from the roof with mechanical strength, climatic resistance, aesthetic appearance and low price.

Calculation rules

After choosing the material, it is necessary to determine the quantity necessary elements. It depends on the type and size of the roof. Since the gutters are installed along the length of the cornices, the length of the roof slopes, respectively, will determine the total length of the horizontal part of the drain. Therefore, you just need to measure the length of the overhangs (cornices) of the roof. If there is a house project, then this can be done on it, remembering to multiply the resulting parameter by the scale of the drawing.

As for vertical drains, the length of each riser corresponds to the height of the wall. But depending on the size of the roof, there may be several risers. If the length of the eaves of one slope does not exceed 10 m, then one downpipe is installed. If it is more than 10 m, then two. In this case, the maximum distance between the pipes should not exceed 20 m. From this calculation, the number of pipe risers is determined. The resulting value is multiplied by the length of one vertical drain and the total length of all drains in the house is obtained.

Drainpipes are installed every 20 m, their height is determined by the distance from the cornice to the drain into the storm sewer

The maximum length of one gutter and one downpipe is 3 m. This parameter must be divided separately by the total length of the gutters and separately by the total length of the pipes. The result is the exact number of these products by position. If the result is a non-integer number, then it is rounded up. For example, the total length of the gutters is 98 m. Divide this number by 3, we get - 32.66, rounded up to 33. This is the number of gutters 3 m long needed to build the drainage system of the house.

Auxiliary elements calculation

1. Funnels and bottom drains will require the same number of vertical risers planned for installation.
2. The number of brackets for gutters is determined by the distance between them - 50–60 cm. In this case, the first and last bracket is installed at a distance of 30 cm from the edge of the slope.
3. The number of clamps for fastening downpipes is determined by a distance between them of 1.8–2.0 m. If the installation height of the downpipe exceeds 20 m, then the distance between the clamps is reduced to 1.5 m. The lower clamp is installed near the connection of the drain with the first pipe.

There is one more element in the pipe system of a vertical drain. This is a 45° or 90° elbow. Install it as a connecting element between the funnel and pipes. Depending on the architecture of the house, either a 45-degree fitting or a 90-degree fitting is mounted. The connection always uses two fittings per riser.

The riser of the drainage system is attached to the structure of the trays through a funnel and two outlets

Since the gutter system of the roof is gravity flow, the tray section under the roof must be installed with a slight slope towards the funnel. The angle of inclination is determined by the displacement of the edge of the last gutter at the funnel relative to the opposite edge of the entire section by 2–3 mm vertically.

Video: calculation and installation of a plastic drainage system

Installation rules

Installation of a drain is carried out strictly in a certain sequence.

1. First of all, brackets for gutters are installed and attached to the roof truss system. Installation is carried out taking into account the angle of inclination.

   Depending on the type of gutter system, brackets for gutters can be installed on the crate or on the frontal eaves

2. The gutters themselves are laid on the brackets. The installation starts from the location of the funnel in order to ensure the correct overlap, taking into account the slope of the route: the chute located above should be on top. The connection is carried out using a sealant.

   When installing the gutters, it is important to observe the slope towards the funnel and the correct overlap between the elements.

3. Gutters are fastened to brackets in different ways: latches, ties and other fastening structures.

   The fastening of the plastic gutter is usually done by snapping into the grooves of the bracket.

4. Installation of downpipes with the installation of funnels and drains is underway.

Operating conditions and repair rules

The drainage system is subjected to natural loads known to all. Therefore, at least once a year, it is necessary to carry out preventive measures related to the inspection of elements, cleaning and repair.

Usually this is done in the fall, when the leaf fall ends, because it is the leaves that clog the gutters the most. They just need to be removed with your hands or a broom.

Garbage from the gutters is removed by hand, a broom or any improvised devices.

More difficult with downpipes. It is impossible to get inside by hand, so it is recommended to do a hydraulic flush using a hose and pressurized water. To do this, it is best to use a container of water, for example, a barrel and a small household pump.

The second most important defect is the depressurization of the joints. If it concerns the gutters, then it is not necessary to disassemble the site. Just the edge of the next tray is lifted from the edge of the previous one, the connection is cleaned of the old sealant, a new one is applied, and the top edge is pressed against the bottom. It is more difficult with pipes, because with such a defect, the structure will have to be disassembled, the joints cleaned, and then reassembled.

Cracks in the elements of the drainage system are rare. If small ones appear, then special mastics are used to seal them, which are called "cold welding". These are one- or two-component materials, which, after being applied to a crack, glue its two ends tightly together. In case of large defects, the elements of the drainage system cannot be repaired. They are replaced with new ones, for which the defective area will have to be disassembled.

The gutter system is a mandatory attribute of the roof, which protects the house from atmospheric precipitation and melting snow flowing down from the slopes. Therefore, its selection, calculation and installation must be approached with all responsibility.

A system for collecting rainwater from roof slopes and draining it into storm sewers, or at least away from the foundation of the house, is mandatory for arrangement, so it must be included in the future construction project being developed. Most often, the installation of gutters is carried out at the stage of creating a crate for further roofing. However, there are roof structures that involve the fastening of drainage systems after roofing works. In addition, there are other situations, for example, the need to replace dilapidated gutters and pipes with appropriate fasteners.

How to install gutters if the roof is already covered

So, we solve the problem - how to install gutters if the roof is already covered. And the solution is facilitated by the fact that manufacturers of drainage systems, having provided for various cases in which it is necessary to mount general design are made in different versions. They will be discussed below.

Varieties of modern drainage systems according to the material of manufacture

Not so long ago, the most popular and, perhaps, the only available material for the manufacture of drainage systems was galvanized steel, from which, by the way, they are still produced today. But they are gradually being replaced by metal structures with a polymer coating, or completely made of plastics. Such systems have a more respectable appearance and a long service life, significantly exceeding the durability of conventional galvanized options. Thanks to these qualities, the "new generation" drains quickly became very popular with customers.

Since consumers quite often have a question about which option is better - ordinary galvanized, metal, polymer-coated or completely plastic, it is worth a few words about their comparative characteristics. It should be immediately noted that each from materials from which drains are produced, there are advantages and disadvantages.

• Plastic drainage system can be called the most optimal an option, since the material used for its manufacture is not afraid of temperature changes, it is resistant to winter frosts and summer heat. In addition, plastic is not subject to corrosive processes, is inert to ultraviolet and other external negative influences.

Plastic brackets for gutters have a wide mounting surface, so they fit snugly against the windboard and are securely held on it. However, plastic cannot be bent into the desired configuration, like metal brackets. Therefore, all structural details must be precisely adjusted to the specific width of the frontal board and overhang.

The cost of a plastic drainage system exceeds the prices of structures made of other materials - this can be called their most significant drawback.

• with a polymer coating are somewhat cheaper than plastic and have long enough service life. The systems withstand external natural influences well, outwardly they look very elegant, practically not inferior in this parameter to polymer ones.

However, polymer-coated steel parts are not particularly resistant to mechanical scratching. Well, damage to the polymer coating leads to the occurrence of corrosion processes, which means that the duration of the structure's functioning is reduced. It is quite easy to damage the coating even during installation work. Great care is needed when assembling and working with fasteners.

• Gutters made of galvanized steel sheet are among the cheapest options. Their appearance is not aesthetically pleasing. They can serve for quite a long time, but with deep scratches corrosion can also quickly make voe bad deed.

Dignity metal systems we can say that some of their parts can be much easier to fit to certain configurations, for example, by slightly bending the brackets in the right places, which cannot be done with plastic.

You can casually recall the less popular materials from which gutters are made for buildings with a certain design solution - it can be copper and an alloy of titanium and zinc. Reliability, durability and appearance of such systems are beyond praise, but the price is clearly “biting”. If such systems are chosen, then brackets can also be selected for them, which can be fixed to the eaves of an already roofed roof.

In principle, support brackets can be matched to drainage systems made of any material. different designs, as they are sold not only as a set with the main parts, but also separately. The main thing is that the holders fit in shape and size to the gutter.

Learn how to produce by reading the instructions in a special article on our portal.

When do you have to install gutters after the roof is covered?

Now we need to somewhat clarify the points when circumstances may force us to engage in the installation of a drainage system after roofing material laid on the slopes of the roof. So, there are several reasons for this installation:

• This process itself, in this sequence, is provided for by the construction project. For example, if the ventilation of the roofing system will be carried out through the perforated details of the spotlights installed under the roof overhang. Many experts consider this method of ventilation to be more efficient, and therefore they plan to fix the gutter on the frontal (wind) board.
• Forced fastening of gutters along the eaves of a covered roof occurs if the house was purchased in unfinished, and the former owner did not provide for their installation in advance.
• Highly common the reason when the old drainage system is completely outdated and exhausted is that the gutters began to leak, and the metal holders rusted and do not perform their function properly.

• If in the rafter system it was used for, which, according to the technology, should go to the cornice overhang. Therefore, in this version, it is no longer possible to fix the brackets for laying the gutters to the crate and they need to be attached to the wind board.

How gutter systems are installed along cornice overhangs

Gutter bracket types

Brackets can be made of metal or plastic and vary in design. The choice of the desired model will depend on the location and method of fixing the drainage system.

Brackets can be long, short and universal:

• Long hooks are most often used for fastening under the roof covering before its decking. These elements are fixed to the rafters, usually even before the installation of a discharged or solid crate.
• Short brackets can be used to install the gutter system on the front board or on the wall of the building. This type of hook is mounted as before laying the roofing on truss system, and after the roof is equipped. In addition to the frontal board or wall, sometimes this type of bracket is fixed to the end surface of the rafter legs or filly. However, in this case, the reliability of the installation will be significantly lower, since the fastening screws or nails will enter the wood parallel to the fibers.
• The universal version of the brackets is a collapsible design that can be used for the installation of drainage systems both before the roofing material is laid and after this process. The ability to adjust the length allows you to use them both long and short.

Ways to fix gutters

First you need to understand the options for installing drainage systems, with a roof covering. This will make it possible to determine which of them is applicable in each particular case.

So, there are four ways to fix the brackets on the elements of the truss system:

• On the rafter legs, both on the end, and on their upper or side sides.
• On the wind (frontal) board.
• Under the roof, on the bottom board of the crate or on plywood (OSB) of a solid crate.
• At the edge of the roofing.

The first way - to the rafters or crate

If the brackets are fixed before the installation of the roofing material, then they are most often fixed on the rafters or on the bottom board of the batten. In this case, supporting hooks with long legs if necessary correct location gutters can be bent or left straight. In addition to them, universal brackets are sometimes used for the installation of drainage systems in this case.

Fastening hooks to the boards (sheets) of the crate

If the roofing has already been installed, for example if the old gutter system needs to be replaced and it is planned to fix the brackets in this way, then the bottom row of roofing material will have to be removed. True, this is not always easy.

To do this, it will be necessary to unscrew the fasteners not only of the first, but also of the second row of the coating. Rigid roofing material must be dismantled carefully. This is especially important if the coating is not new, but has been in operation for several years, otherwise the sheets can be easily damaged, which will lead to unnecessary costs. And not every material can be dismantled without violating integrity or without deformation, especially if it is fixed with nails. So, problems are very likely, for example, with ordinary slate or ondulin.

In the situation when it is equipped on the roof, laid on a plywood base, you can try to gently lift only the lower edge of the roofing material that runs along the eaves. Then, put the brackets on solid crate and fix with self-tapping screws, screwing them into the rafter legs through the plywood coating. next step shingles or the roofing material returns to its original position and is fixed to the surface using bituminous mastic.

Video: Installation of a gutter system with edge dismantling of tiled roofing

In order not to dismantle the roofing, you can try using another option for installing brackets on the rafters. It consists in fixing the hooks on the side of their timber. For this, brackets are purchased or manufactured with a bent mounting platform turned into a horizontal plane - an example is shown in the figure above.

It should be remembered that such installation is possible only if the rafter legs are large enough in cross section, for example, 120 × 50 or 150 × 50 mm. In addition, it must be taken into account that the hooks must be fixed so that the roof covering hangs over the gutter, overlapping ½ or ⅓ of its width, otherwise heavy rain water overflow may occur.

Therefore, if the option of fixing the brackets on the side of the rafter is chosen, then first you need to try on, which will show whether this method of installation is possible.

The second way is to mount the brackets on the frontal board

The easiest way is to install the brackets on the wind (frontal) board, and this can be done using various fasteners.

The frontal board is fixed on the end sides of the rafter legs, and in various designs may be wide or narrow. The choice of bracket type will depend on this parameter.

For mounting a drainage system on a frontal board, the following are suitable:

• Long brackets, in the event that the frontal board has large enough width. Such holders are made of metal and have a leg of the same width as the hook. On the leg there is also a mounting platform with holes through which the brackets are attached to the frontal board.

• Short brackets are designed to mount them on the frontal board, the wall of the building, as well as on the end side of the rafters. As already mentioned, the latter option is undesirable, the reliability of fixation will be doubtful due to the location of the fasteners parallel to the wood fibers.

Plastic short hooks most often have a wide base in the mounting area, so they will hold the gutters firmly.

In addition to the usual brackets, you can find their adjustable options on sale. Their convenience lies in the fact that they have a special device that allows you to set the slope of the hook relative to the base to which they are attached. Sometimes this function is indispensable, for example, when arranging a drainage system on an inclined fixed wind board or on the crown of a log cabin.

Another option for attaching gutters to the frontal board using short hooks is a whole system consisting of a metal guide profile and special holder brackets. First, a guide is fixed on the wind board, which is immediately given the necessary slope. Then, brackets are put on the side of the profile and move along the guide, with the arrangement at the required distance. It is not necessary to fix such brackets, since they are tightly installed in the profile - this is one of the advantages of this mounting system. In addition, when mounting it, you do not have to measure the location of each hook according to its height - you only need to set the profile with necessary slope according to the level and securely fix it through the holes specially provided in it.

However, such a system can be installed if the roof overhang is of a suitable width.

When installing individual brackets, first a horizontal line is beaten off on the windboard with a slope of three to five millimeters per linear meter of the gutter towards the drain funnel. Then, from the end edge of the frontal board, you need to retreat from 50 to 100 mm - this will be the installation site for the first bracket.

Further, the entire line is marked so that there is a distance of no more than 600 mm between the hooks (the systems of some manufacturers allow a larger step - this is specified in the installation instructions). In the area of ​​​​installation of the drain funnel, the holders are fixed at a distance of no more than 50 mm from it.

After carrying out such markings, you can proceed to fixing the brackets on the frontal board.

The third way is to fasten the brackets directly to the edge of the roofing

This method is applicable to install a gutter system along the eaves of a roof covered with almost any toughroofing material. Hook-holders are fastened with the help of special clamps (clamps), which fix the brackets along the edge of the roof.

There are different types of clamps, to fix some of them it will be necessary to carefully drill through holes in the roofing material, departing from its edge at least 50 mm. Others have a design that does not require drilling of the roof, as they are clamped along its edge. This option is fixed with a screw, which, by analogy with a clamp, clamps the edge of the roof.

If the brackets will be fixed to the wave coverage, then this must be done exactly at the bottom or top point waves. Under the metal fastening tabs of the clamp, it is recommended to place rubber pads on both the upper and lower sides of the roofing material, so the load on it will be slightly lower, and the compression will be softer.

For this method of installing a drain, both metal and plastic brackets are suitable. Ordinary metal long hooks you can redo it yourself by bending them in the right way, drilling holes in them and cutting threads. Plastic must be purchased ready-made.

Since in this option the entire load from the drainage system will fall on the edge of the roofing, it is necessary, if possible, to choose a set with a small mass.

The fourth way - with an additional long bracket

In this version, an additional metal L-bracket is used to fasten the short gutter holders. Its long part is fixed on the side of the rafter leg, and on the short curved shelf there is a mounting platform for fixing a short plastic holder.

This fastening method sometimes becomes the only way to fix the brackets with the previously laid roofing without damaging its surface. For example, if the roofing material on the overhang protrudes 120 ÷ 150 mm beyond the line of the ends of the rafter legs, and there is no desire to fix the brackets on the edge of the roof or the coating does not provide such an opportunity.

There are other ways to install a gutter system with a previously covered roof:

• So, if it is necessary to equip a drainage system on one that has already covered slopes, the brackets can be fixed directly on the wall surface, carefully measuring and marking.
• Hooks are sometimes attached to a securely installed soffit if it is of the right width. In this case, the hook brackets are fixed on metal L-shaped profiles screwed to the surface of the soffit, by analogy with the picture shown above.
• If there is no frontal board, or the soffit is too narrow, then the option of driving special metal pins into the wall is chosen, they can be straight or L-shaped. The end of the pin driven into the wall must have a sharp end. If the wall is concrete or brick, then a hole of the appropriate diameter is first drilled in it, into which the pin is embedded. To do this, the hole is filled with concrete mortar, after which a pin is driven into it. In this case, before proceeding with the installation of gutters, it is necessary to wait until the solution has completely solidified.

If it is planned to lay the gutter on pins hammered into the wall, then their installation must also be marked so that the required slope towards the downpipe funnel is provided.

• A pull-up suspension mount is not as popular as the options described above, but sometimes such a design is indispensable. This bracket has special bends, one of which hooks the front side of the gutter, and the second is put on the rear edge of its wall. In addition, there is a sleeve with an internal thread on the holder, through it, as well as the upper part of the gutter wall, a fastener is screwed into the wall or frontal board.

This type of fasteners can be used to fix the gutter both on the frontal board and on the ends of the rafter legs.

If such fasteners are chosen, then the gutter must be closed from above with a protective net, which will prevent large debris from entering it. Otherwise, fallen leaves may linger on the lintels, collecting dust and dirt flowing down with water from roofs, and over time, a cork forms in the gutter. In order to prevent overflow of water due to accumulated dirt, a protective mesh is needed.

By the way, you can notice that such an element of the system will not be superfluous in any drain.

Gutter parameters and slope angle of their installation

Having chosen the type of brackets and the method of fixing the gutter system, before going to the store to pick it up, you need to decide on the size of the gutter. It must correspond to the slope and parameters of the roof slope, otherwise water will overflow over its edge during heavy rain.

In addition, you need to decide on the section of pipes into which storm drains will flow from the gutter, since if it is not enough to purchase a pipe large diameter, it may not be able to cope with the flows, and the water will go over the edge of the gutters - onto the walls and under the foundation.

To determine the diameter, you need to decide in advance how many drainage pipes will be installed on one roof slope. In this regard, there are certain standards. So, if the length of the slope eaves is up to 12 meters, then it will be enough to install one funnel with a drain vertical pipe. With longer cornices, from 12 to 24 meters, you will have to mount two pipes - at the corners of the building.

So, in order to determine the size of the elements of the drainage system, it is necessary to determine the catchment area. To do this, you need to measure the distance from the corner of the cornice to the middle of the gable side of the house - this parameter is indicated on the diagram above by the letter Y, as well as the length of the cornice line - X, and then find their product, which will determine the catchment area of ​​​​one roof slope.

As you can see in the drawing, a gutter up to 12 meters in size has a slope in one direction, at the bottom of which a downpipe is mounted.

If the length of the slope is more than 12 meters, then it is necessary to find the middle of the cornice and from it two guttershaving a slope towards the corners of the building, where the gutters are installed.

gutter slope gutters should be 3÷5 mm per linear meter of gutter length.

Now it’s worth figuring out what dimensions of the gutter and drain pipe you need to choose, given the calculated catchment area.

If the catchment area is known, then to determine the dimensions of the elements of the drainage system, you can also use the following table, which indicates the necessary basic parameters and shows other options for the location of the drainage system with one drain pipe.

The location of the drain pipe	Dimensions of the main elements of the drainage system
	Gutter -75 mm, downpipe 63 mm	Gutter -100 mm, downpipe 90 mm	Gutter -125 mm, downpipe 110 mm	Gutter -125 mm, downpipe 90 mm	Gutter -125 mm, downpipe 63 mm	Gutter -150 mm, downpipe 110 mm
	Catchment area, m²
	95	148	240	205	165	370
	48	74	120	100	82	180
	42	50	95	80	65	145

Other elements of the drainage system

Now, having dealt with the principles and methods of installing a drainage system, and with how to correctly calculate the dimensions of the gutter and pipe, it is worth considering the functions of the remaining structural elements.

So, in addition to downpipes, gutters and brackets-holders for them, the drainage system consists of the following parts, each of which plays its own role. important role in construction:

• A plastic retainer with a rubber or polymer gasket used to seal the joints of individual gutters. Typically, these parts will be needed in two-pipe drainage systems or if the pipe is planned to be placed in the middle of the length of the wall, and the gutters are installed at an angle to it on both sides.
• The corner element is used in systems where the pipe is not located at the corner of the building, but on its front side, that is, the gutter turns around the corner of the house.
• A plug is a semicircular or square cover, depending on the shape of the gutter, installed on its ends on both sides.
• Drain or outlet funnel, connected to the drain chute on one or both sides, depending on the selected installation scheme. The lower part of the funnel is hermetically connected to a vertical downpipe.
• Elbow - This part is designed to create bends on the downpipe. If the wall is flat, then the elbow can be installed to move the pipe away from its surface and at the bottom to drain water away from the basement of the house. If the gutter and downpipe are located along the edge of the overhang, which has large enough width, due to which it is far from the wall, and the lower part of the pipe vertically enters, then the elbows may not be used at all.
• Brackets for fixing the drainpipe on the wall. These elements are made in the form of steel clamps, in which the pipe is fixed.
• Fasteners - these can be self-tapping screws or dowel-nails. They are selected depending on the material of the surface on which the holders of the gutter and downpipe will be attached.

• Brackets-holders for gutters are installed at a distance of 500÷800 mm from each other. Therefore, you need to measure the length of the eaves and choose the optimal installation step.
• Brackets-clamps for holding drainpipes are fixed on or into the wall with a step of 1200 ÷ 1500 mm.
• The number of drain funnels is calculated taking into account the selected scheme. They can be installed on each slope two or one.
• Self-tapping screws are consumable parts, and they need to be purchased with a margin, given that at least two pieces must be planned for each bracket. A good owner will always find a use for the surplus.

• For each of the joints of the individual parts of the gutter, special rubber connectors and roofing sealant must be provided. It is also used to seal end caps.

Installation of a drainage system

Tools needed for the job

A few words need to be said about the tools that will be required for the installation of the drain. It must be correctly understood that the set of tools may vary depending on what material the gutter structure is made of - metal or plastic. So, for work you will need:

• Hacksaw for metal or wood. The latter, in principle, is also suitable for cutting plastic, but the edge will turn out to be not very neat and will have to be cleaned.
• Shears for cutting sheet metal.
• Hammer and (or) - for fastening structural parts
• Hammer drill for drilling holes in brick or concrete wall for the installation of clamp brackets for the downpipe (if this installation method is chosen).
• Pliers will be needed for metal structures.
• A rubber mallet (mallet) will be required when installing the plugs.
• Building level, metal corner, tape measure and pencil, long cord- for marking operations.
• Reliable stepladder or scaffolding- for the convenience of work and ensuring its safety.

In the same section, you need to immediately clarify why it is recommended to cut the elements of drainage systems with a hacksaw or scissors for metal, and in no case with a “grinder” (grinder). The durability of drainage systems, both metal and plastic, directly depends on this circumstance.

When performing a cut with a grinder, metal or plastic gets very hot. This leads to the burnout of the anti-corrosion layer in the cut area of ​​the metal and the melting of the plastic, which reduces the resistance of the material to external influences. For example, a polymeric protective layer applied to metal pipe or gutter, can begin to peel off even up to 50 mm around the cut, which will make the metal practically defenseless against moisture.

That is why it is best to listen to the recommendations of the masters and cut the details drains only with those tools that above.

We believe that everything necessary for the installation of a drainage system has already been prepared. You can proceed to the consideration of installation work.

The sequence of installation work - step by step

So if roofing cake already installed, most widespread An option for fixing the drain is to fix the short holders on the windboard. And, it should be noted that many roofers find the short version of hooks more reliable than long brackets. In addition, they have several other advantages:

• Short holders do not have to be bent, as they are already ready for installation.
• If it is necessary to repair the drain, this type of bracket is easier to remove, since it does not have to resort to dismantling part of the roofing. Therefore, the work can be done independently, without calling the masters.
• The cost of short holders is somewhat lower than the price of long brackets.

Any installation work, including the installation of the drainage system, begins with marking the surface where the brackets for the gutters should be fixed. To make it easier, it is recommended that you first draw up a scheme for arranging a drain. In this case, a system with one funnel and a downpipe will be considered.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	Marking begins with determining the installation point of the first bracket, which will be fixed at the top of the slope. It should be located at a distance of 50÷100 mm from the edge of the windboard. Next, a nail is driven into this point so that a cord can be tied to it. After that, using a tape measure, you need to measure the distance from the top edge of the frontal board to the driven nail. The same distance is determined and marked on the other side of the wind board, where the downpipe is planned to be installed. With the help of a cord, you need to beat off a perfectly horizontal line along the entire frontal board. To simplify the task, you can take a tinted paint cord. The cord tied to the nail is stretched along the length of the windboard to a mark made on its opposite side.
	Further, focusing on the drawn horizontal line, you need to beat off the slope line using the same colored cord. In order to determine the specific value of the slope, which should be 4 ÷ 5 mm per linear meter of the eaves, you need to determine its exact length of the slope. For example, it is seven meters. This means that at the end of the frontal board, the inclined line will drop from the horizontal by 28 ÷ 35 mm. At the end point of the line, the found value is measured from the horizontal, the second end of the cord is pressed against it, and an inclined line is beaten off. Markup can be done in a slightly different way. Finding desired point, a bracket is immediately fixed in it, and a cord is already tied to it. The rest of the steps are carried out in the same way as in the first version of the markup. The next step is to mark the location of the brackets on a flat horizontal line, and from it a projection is made onto an inclined line. The mounting step of the holders is chosen arbitrarily, but it should not exceed 600 mm (unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer).
	The next step in two extreme points markings, two brackets are fixed, between which a cord is pulled, which will help to fix the intermediate holders exactly along the intended line. Thus, the crosshairs of the projection from a horizontal line to an inclined one, as well as a stretched cord, will indicate the exact attachment point for fixing the hooks.
	Next, intermediate brackets are fixed. For each of them you need to prepare two or three screws. There may be more of them - it is recommended to use all the holes provided by the manufacturer for fixing the bracket. The intermediate brackets are installed and screwed so that they come into contact with the cord with the same parts as the outer holders.
	After the holders are screwed to the windboard, the cord must be removed and the correct installation of the hooks must be checked again. The edge of the roof should hang over the gutter by ⅓ of its width - this way the water will fall directly into the drain without overflowing its edge.
	Next, you need to check the distance between the roofing and the edge of the bracket. To do this, you can put a rail on the roof and lower it from the overhang to the edge of the hook, the distance between them should be 30 ÷ 40 mm. This parameter is important due to the fact that if the edge of the bracket is lowered, water flowing from the roof will overflow over its edge, and if it is raised higher, then in the spring, snow sliding from the coating will form a plug in the gutter groove. In this case, the metal version of the bracket is convenient, since if necessary, it can be slightly bent or, conversely, raised.
	The next step, according to a pre-drawn scheme, is to mark the holes on the gutter for installing a funnel and downpipe. The size of the hole must match the diameter of the waste pipe. Then, along the marked lines, two cuts are made with a hacksaw at a certain angle, so that they converge at one point, as shown in the illustration.
	Next, the holes need to be adjusted - rolled to the diameter of the pipe. This operation is performed using pliers.
	The edges of the hole are slightly curved outward - this way they will create a better seal when installed in the pipe hole. You need to work with pliers very carefully, trying to damage the protective and decorative coating of the metal as little as possible.
	The next operation - a funnel is attached to the hole in the gutter and hooked onto it with a folded edge. The other edge of the funnel has "lugs" that need to be bent into the gutter. This is done in such a way that when installing the gutter in the brackets, the bend is located on the side of the wall and be bent away from it. Thus, the most reliable fastening of two parts - a gutter and a funnel will be obtained. Here it is also necessary to clarify that in some drainage systems, a special latch is provided on the funnels, with which it is fixed on the gutter. This modification of this element makes installation easier, but the cost of systems with latches is higher.
	The next step is cutting seals for the side plug of the gutter with a fixed funnel. The seal can be made of rubber or polymers, in any case, it must be sufficiently plastic, easy to bend and take the shape of a semicircle of the plug. Seals may come with the gutter system, or they can be purchased separately from the same stores that sell gutters.
	Next, the seal must be laid in the grooves along the edge of the plug, which will be adjacent to the gutter. When laying it, you need to make sure that there are no gaps between the rubber and the metal. First, one plug is prepared, since in this case the second side of this gutter will join with another segment that goes around the corner.
	Then the plug is installed on the end of the gutter. Since the joint must be completely sealed, the plug with the seal installed in it can be put on the metal edge quite hard. In this case, a mallet will come to the rescue, which needs to gently tap the plug with outside, along the bottom edge. Then it will fit snugly into place.
	Instead of rubber seal, you can use roofing sealant, which is applied before installing the plug on the edge of the gutter. Then, another layer must be applied after they are combined on the inside of the gutter, at the junction of these two elements.
	It must be said that for greater reliability, some craftsmen use both components for sealing, that is, they first install a sealant, and then additionally from the inside of the gutter, they also apply a layer of roofing sealant. Until the sealant has lost its plasticity, it is leveled with a finger dipped in soapy water. From the outside, such a seal will not be visible and will not spoil the appearance of the drain.
	The next step is to install the gutters in the brackets fixed on the windboard. Due to the fact that each section of the gutter has a standard length of 3000 mm, it is necessary to calculate in advance how many such elements will be required for the entire cornice. In order not to cut the gutter with the funnel and plug installed, it should be installed first. Having installed the gutter in the brackets, it must be gently pressed so that the outer fold of the holder goes under the folded edge of the gutter. There are different options for drains in shape, but they are installed in brackets and snap into place in almost the same way.
	At the junction of two sections of the gutters when they are installed in brackets, a retainer is installed under the joint, having rubber gasket and a special lock that snaps into place on the outer edge of the gutter. Each subsequent gutter, when installed from the side of the funnel, is inserted inside the previously installed one - this will ensure free flow of water.
	The latch is wound behind the back wall of the joint and put on its edge from above. From the outer edge of the gutter, it snaps into place with a special clip. To increase reliability, from the inside the joint of the gutters is covered with the same roofing sealant. Sealant is applied thin layer, and then smoothed out with a finger, as it should not create obstacles for the flow of water.
	This illustration shows two ways of joining two pieces of gutters or a corner element of the system, if it is provided for by the project. The first of these is described above - this is a latch. And the second is the rivets that secure the latch on the back and front walls of the gutters. However, to install them, you will have to prepare a special tool. If the riveter is on the list of home tools, it will greatly speed up and simplify any installation work related to thin metal. The last section of the gutter is most often shorter than the rest and it is much easier to install it, but before installing it, a plug is also installed on its outer end - in the same way as shown above.
	You can strengthen the fastening of the gutter with the help of metal strip, which is fastened with a self-tapping screw with wide hat or rivet on the front edge of the gutter, on its inner side. The second edge of the strip is fixed on the roofing or on the wind board. In the second case, the strip will have to be slightly bent. Metal strips can be cut from the remains of a gutter or pipe. Such strengthening of the system will help it withstand high snow loads and spring ice. In addition to such stretch marks, in addition, between the brackets to hold the gutters, hooks are screwed onto the windboard, hooked only on the rear edge. These elements will remove part of the load not only from the brackets-holders, but also from the braces.
	Now you can proceed to the installation of the vertical part of the drain. The first step is to install an elbow in the funnel installed on the gutter, which will determine the location of the vertical pipe relative to the wall. Usually you have to mount this element in order to bring the pipe closer to the wall for easier fixing. So, the pipe should be located at a distance of 60 ÷ 70 mm from the wall, since a standard clamp holder is designed for approximately this parameter.
	The knee is put on the end of the funnel, and then the distance between it and the second knee, which determines the vertical direction of the downpipe, is measured. This is done in order to prepare a piece of pipe, which will connect the two knees. To the obtained value, you need to add 35 ÷ 40 mm on each side, which are necessary for joining the elements.
	Further, the segment is put on top of the knee mounted on the funnel, and the second knee of the structure is put on its second side. If you install the parts in this order, you can avoid the flow of the system at the junctions of these elements. The principle is simple - any part located above should go inside the bottom.
	The next step is to determine the length of the vertical pipe, taking into account the fact that another elbow will be fixed to its lower end, which will set the direction for the water flows passing through the drain. However, it is also necessary to provide for the fact that 80 mm from the resulting size will go to the docking of a flat section of the drain with the knees. Another point to consider is that the standard length of the pipe, just like the gutter, is 3000 mm, and the wall quite often exceeds this parameter. In this case, the pipe has to be assembled from two, and sometimes from three sections.
	Now you need to mark and mount in the wall or fix the clamp brackets for the vertical pipe on it. They are installed in increments of 1200 ÷ 1800 mm, however, if the vertical pipe consists of several sections, then their joints must also be strengthened with clamps.
	However, the clamps are not mounted on the joint itself, but 100 mm below it. The vertical pipe is installed to the wall only after the clamps are fixed on it, so that after connecting the individual sections, immediately fix the drain in the brackets.
	Starting the assembly of the pipe, its upper edge is put on the lower end of the elbow installed in the upper part. Then, the bottom edge of the top pipe section is inserted into the next section. In order for one section of the pipe to easily fit into another, it is recommended to narrow it slightly by bending, which can be done with pliers. You need to work carefully, trying not to damage the coating. Naturally, this manipulation can be done only if the drainage system is made of metal. Plastic will immediately crack if you try to bend it in this way.
	At the end of the installation of the pipe, the lower elbow is put on its lower edge and fixed with a bracket. This element is usually located at a height of 150 ÷ ​​300 mm from the blind area. If a drainage system is planned or already installed under the drainpipe or storm sewer, then the distance between it and the blind area can be reduced to 100 mm. And often the pipe completely enters the storm water inlet.

So, methods for installing drainage systems after covering the roof were considered. Knowing the nuances of the calculation and information about which fasteners are used for such structures, you can choose the best option. Such that to the maximum extent suitable for the specifics of the roof structure, will suit the master in terms of complexity of execution and financial capabilities.