The device of a roof for a bath from a round timber. How to make a gable roof for a bath with your own hands: step-by-step technology, video guide. Pitched roof construction standards

The final and most difficult stage in the construction of a bath is the construction of a roof. Here it is important to choose the right angle of inclination, the length of the overhang, and think over the configuration of the truss system. Much depends on the type of roof: a gable design is more functional, but a single-sided one is easier to mount. Of course, you can hire specialists for this, but a do-it-yourself bath roof will cost several times cheaper.

Shed roof mounted mainly on the baths small size. One of the walls is made higher by 2-3 rows, which allows you to lay the floor beams at the right angle. To reduce the load on the floors, the angle of inclination should be at least 20 degrees. In regions where a lot of snow falls, the slope is made even steeper - up to 45 degrees.

To build a shed roof you will need:

• durable timber with a section of 60x80mm;
• floor beams;
• boards 250x30 mm;
• hydrobarrier membrane;
• insulation;
• roofing;
• nails and screws;
• a hammer;
• hacksaw;
• antiseptic primer;
• building level.

Step 1 Mounting the Mauerlat

Mauerlat is called a load-bearing beam laid on top of the walls along the perimeter of the bath. It is designed to connect walls and truss systems. AT wooden baths the role of the Mauerlat is performed by the upper row of the log house, and for buildings made of bricks or blocks it must be installed separately. You can fix the beams on the wall with steel wire, anchor bolts or building studs. The third option is considered the most convenient for one pitched roofs.

Construction studs are embedded in the upper rows of masonry at a distance of 60-70 cm. This must be done carefully so as not to stain the thread with mortar. The threaded part should rise above the Mauerlat by about 3 cm, and the bottom should be deepened into the wall by 45 cm. Then the beam is also laid on the points and beaten with a hammer so that marks remain. Holes are drilled according to the marks, the beam is put on the studs and the nuts are screwed onto the threads.

Step 2. Installation of ceiling beams

In the Mauerlat, grooves are cut out for floor beams every 60-70 cm. After laying the beams, their ends should protrude beyond the outer walls of the bath by at least 30 cm. The ceilings, which are also rafters, are attached to the Mauerlat with nails or with wire. During installation, care should be taken to ensure that the beams lie in the same plane. Upon completion of the work, the wooden elements are primed with an antiseptic composition.

Step 3. Roof insulation and waterproofing

From below, the floor beams are knocked out with boards, and then the roofing is continued. Attached to the rafters vapor barrier film, laying the material with an overlap and connecting the joints with adhesive tape. The next layer is thermal insulation. Slab insulation is more convenient to use, but you can also take rolled insulation. Insulating material is tightly laid between the rafters, all gaps and holes are foamed, and a hydrobarrier is fixed on top. It is also overlapped, the seams are sealed with tape along the entire length.

Step 4. Installation of the roof

Bars and boards for crates are treated with an antiseptic and dried. Next, the bars are stuffed onto the rafters directly through the waterproofing film, and then the resulting frame is sheathed with boards. Depending on the type of roof, the gaps between the boards can be of different widths - from 1 to 15 cm. When the crate is ready, you can proceed with the installation of the finishing coating - slate, corrugated board, tiles or another. Sheet roofing is fixed with self-tapping screws with special gaskets that prevent moisture from penetrating through the holes.

Construction of a gable roof

For a spacious bath, a gable roof is more suitable. In the attic, you can store and dry bath brooms, which is also very convenient. The gable roof truss system is assembled in several steps, and the main elements are made on the ground.

In the process of building a roof, you will need:

Step 1. Installing the ceiling beams

In the Mauerlat or the upper crown of the log house, grooves are cut out for the ceiling beams. The distance between the grooves is 1 m, the depth of the cuts is about 7-9 cm. The treated and dried beams are inserted into the grooves on the edge and fixed with nails. It is possible to make ceiling ceilings with a protrusion beyond the walls, but then additional sealing will be required at the points of contact with the Mauerlat.

Step 2. Assembly of roof trusses

A gable roof is formed by several identical triangular-shaped structures, which are called trusses. Each truss consists of two beams of the same length - rafter legs, a base and a lintel - a crossbar. Between themselves, the elements of the farm are fastened with special screws. For the base and rafter legs, a 50x100 mm edged board is used; while the length of the rafters is 280 cm, and the length of the base is 50-60 cm longer.

The edges of the boards are cut at an angle of 40-45 degrees, holes are drilled for screws at the joints and the boards are firmly fastened together. Stepping back from the junction of the rafters about half a meter, a groove for the crossbar is cut out in the beam. Rectangular cuts are also made at the ends of the crossbar, with the help of which the jumper is tightly inserted into the rafter legs. In places where the crossbar fits to the beam, screws are screwed. The rest of the farms are collected in the same way.

Two farms, which will be located above the side walls, should be immediately sheathed, and it will be more convenient to do this on the ground. A beam of 50x50 mm is nailed to the truss in the form of horizontal jumpers every 30-40 cm, the ends are cut at an angle. Additionally, the structure is reinforced with two bars diagonally. Now they sheathe the crate with boards vertically, leaving an allowance from the bottom edge of 2.5 cm. You can do the opposite: the frame bars are nailed vertically, and the sheathing boards are fixed horizontally. In the casing of the second farm, you need to make a door.

Step 3: Install the trusses

Finished trusses are lifted up and installed above the ceiling beams. First, they are fixed with temporary spacers from a bar, aligning them vertically. The extreme trusses are installed first: several through holes are drilled in the base and the rafters are screwed to the Mauerlat. To more conveniently control the location of the farm vertically, you need to tie a plumb line to the crossbar. After the installation of the structure, it is additionally strengthened with jibs - strong beams, one end of which rests against the bearing beam on the wall, and the other against the rafters at the level of the crossbar.

After mounting and strengthening the extreme rafters, they proceed to the rest of the farms. They are set according to the level and fixed with temporary struts; the distance between adjacent rafters is 1 m. When all parts of the rafter system are installed, they are connected with a visor. To do this, use 2 long boards, which are nailed to the beams at the very top on both sides of the roof.

Step 4. Mounting the crate

For the crate, it is desirable to take boards of such length that they completely cover the roof and protrude 20 cm beyond the edges of the truss. If you use short boards and join them on the rafters, the strength of the roof will be reduced. The width of the gaps between the boards depends on the type roofing and can be from 1 to 50 cm. The boards are nailed to the rafters. At the location of the chimney, a hole of appropriate parameters is made and a solid crate around it. Next, a waterproofing membrane is laid: the film is fixed with a stapler to the boards, laying strips of material with an overlap of 5-10 cm. Around the chimney hole, the edges of the film should hang slightly inward.

Step 5. Installation of roofing

On top of the film, 50x50 mm bars are nailed for the counter-lattice. They are pre-impregnated with an antiseptic and dried well. The coating is laid on the counter-lattice, starting from the eaves. For a bath, you can use any type of roof - from soft tiles to corrugated board. Roofing material is fixed according to the instructions, making allowances for overhangs. For the chimney, holes are cut out in the coating, and after installation outer pipe seal joints bituminous mastic or special glue and cover with an apron.

Step 6. Thermal insulation of the roof of the bath

After installing the roofing, the roof should be carefully insulated from the inside. Since the rafters have already been primed with an antiseptic, it is not necessary to process them again. Thermal insulation slabs are laid as tightly as possible between the beams, trying not to compress or bend the edges of the material too much. With deformation, the properties of the insulation are noticeably reduced. It is recommended to blow out the gaps and seams between the plates and at the corners of the rafters with foam.

Special attention should be paid to the insulation of gables. First, they are upholstered from the inside with a waterproofing film, then the crate bars are fixed. can be used for this purpose and aluminum profiles. The next layer is insulation, and then the vapor barrier is fixed. At the junctions of slopes and gables, the vapor barrier film is laid with an overlap and glued with adhesive tape. If necessary, the inner surface of the roof can be sheathed with clapboard, ordinary boards or plywood.

Video - Do-it-yourself bath roof

A bath is a sanitary and hygienic building, which is very popular among the population of Russia. It has become an obligatory part of leisure and recreation, a way of life of the Russian people, so not a single country or even garden house. If there is enough space on the site for construction, then a free-standing bath with gable roof the best option. It will be easy to maintain optimal temperature, the building will be a reflection of ancient traditions in architecture. This article will tell you how to build a gable roof that retains heat with your own hands.

The gable roof of the bath is formed by connecting two planes that are located at an angle to each other, called slopes. This is one of the easiest roofing structures to design and install with your own hands. In the frontal projection, it has the shape of an isosceles triangle, which is considered traditional for this type of building. The gable roof consists of the following parts:

1. Rafter frame. This term refers to a set of elements that provide support for the roofing material. It includes: Mauerlat, rafters, tightening, ridge run, racks and struts. The truss frame is made of high quality wood coniferous trees. Composition and mutual arrangement its parts is calculated in accordance with the expected load, which is influenced by the weight of the roofing material and the amount of precipitation in winter. Rafters, like a supporting skeleton, give shape and rigidity to the structure, protecting it from destruction. For the construction of the roof of the bath, hanging or layered rafters are used.
2. Roofing cake. This term refers to the roofing material and the waterproofing layer, which are laid on the crate, based on the rafters. As a waterproofing, roofing material is more often used, which has a greater margin of safety than polyethylene films and diffuse membranes. To cover the slopes of the bath, use corrugated board, metal tiles, ondulin or slate.
3. Gables. The gable roof has two triangular pediments, which are a continuation of the end walls. The pediments are sewn up with lighter lumber or made of the same material as the facade of the building. Bathhouses made entirely of timber or logs have better heat retention properties, but they are more expensive due to the greater use of lumber and the difficulty of DIY assembly. To reduce fuel consumption to maintain the temperature, the pediments are insulated inside or outside, the gaps are closed and lined with decorative material.

Note! The microclimate, which is installed in the bath, is an aggressive environment for building materials. The difference between internal and outside temperature air, heat and humidity have a detrimental effect on wood, so any instruction for building a roof for a bath with your own hands involves processing with antiseptic and moisture-proof compounds. The high risk of fire explains the need to use flame retardants to protect the rafters from fire.

Types of structures

Gable roof - the most rational and popular type roofing construction used for the construction of baths with their own hands. She wants the building to look like a traditional tower, making it not only functional, but also aesthetic. Experienced craftsmen talk about the possibility of arranging two types of gable roofs:

Important! If the bath is made as an extension to a residential building, then the most rational option for overlapping is shed roof. It looks less presentable and has less energy efficiency, however, it costs much less and is built faster.

truss system

Aggregate wooden elements supporting the shape of the roof is called the truss system. It consists of roof trusses, each of which has the shape of an equilateral triangle, its base is equal to the width of the bath, and the legs are rafters. Triangle - the most persistent geometric figure, so the roof frame can withstand significant loads. For the construction of a gable roof, two types of frames are used:

Note! When determining the composition of the rafter frame, its own weight, mass attic floors and seasonal snow load. The thickness of the rafters is determined in accordance with the length of the slope, the width of the step between the legs and the type of roofing material. In order for the roof to last longer, a small reserve of strength should be left, which will prevent breakage in extreme weather conditions.

Mounting

The construction of the roof is a technically complex process, therefore, when building with your own hands, it is important to thoroughly follow the recommended technology. Installation work is carried out in dry weather to keep the elements of the truss frame dry. From the tools you will need a grinder, a jigsaw, a screwdriver, a drill, construction stapler. Assembly is performed in the following order:

Important! Since the bath implies the presence heater, then The final stage roof construction - removal of the chimney. It should be located at a distance of 30-50 cm from the ridge and rise above it by 50-100 cm.

Video instruction

Depending on the linear dimensions of the bath and the wishes of the developer, the roof in the bath can be single-pitched or double-pitched, flat or sloping. The most commonly used option is a sloping gable roof, according to its performance characteristics, it is suitable for all climatic zones of our country, under such roofs it is possible to equip residential attic spaces.

Gable roofs can be layered (often used on buildings with a width of more than six meters) and hanging. To increase stability indicators, the layered type of roofs has additional rafter stops, hanging truss systems have an emphasis only on Mauerlats or beams ceiling(rarely used option), in the upper part of the rafters are held by crossbars. For example, let's take the most common option - hanging gable roofs.

hanging rafters Hanging rafter spans from 13 to 17 m
Types of layered rafters

Types of hanging rafters Calculation scheme of hanging rafters Solution options for the cornice assembly

Let's take into account that the dimensions of the bath are 5 × 5 meters, the bath is made of sawn timber, the top row plays the role of a Mauerlat. The roof is gable hanging, without insulation.

Before starting the manufacture of rafters, it is necessary to make preliminary calculations, with their help we will determine the angle of inclination and the parameters of the rafter legs.

The following loads act on the truss system:

• permanent. The weight of the truss system, lathing and roofing. The weight of the roofing depends on the specific roofing material and is specified by the manufacturer;
• temporary. Wind and snow loads, weight of workers;
• natural. Earthquakes, hurricanes, etc. Natural loads during the calculations of the truss system in our country are not taken into account due to the low probability of their occurrence.

When calculating the thickness and width of the rafters, the sum of the maximum values ​​\u200b\u200bof all types of loads must be taken into account. In order to make the calculation technology clearer, you need to understand a little about the loads acting on each individual roof node.

The lower part of the rafter legs sits on the Mauerlats, the knot must take vertical and lateral loads. Crossbars work only for breaking, perceive horizontal loads. The upper (ridge) part of the rafter legs must perceive horizontal compression forces. Spans of rafters under load bend. We hope that this knowledge will help you choose the most reliable ways of fastening architectural elements in knots.

If the weight of the roofing material is indicated by the manufacturer, then the wind and snow load must be calculated independently.

Indicators depend on maximum height snow cover in each region. According to the map of snow loads, a specific area of ​​\u200b\u200bresidence is determined and, using the table, the maximum effort is determined.

Table of correction factors A - for open areas. B - for terrain with obstacles.

The region of residence is determined from the map, with the help of the table a correction factor is recognized, depending on the height of the bath and its location.

To determine the load, you need to multiply the standard value by the correction factor.

For the Moscow region, the parameters of the rafters can be found in the table.

Practical advice: if it is difficult for you to do the calculations yourself, take the dimensions of the truss system on existing buildings of this type. During the calculations, the angle of inclination was taken to be 20°.

Instructions for the manufacture of a gable truss system

First, a few tips on choosing the material. For rafter legs, you can take boards 50 × 150 mm, the step between the rafters is 90 centimeters, the angle of inclination of the slopes is 20 °. Pick only quality material without deep cracks or bends.

It is very important - at the junctions, do not even allow the presence of healthy knots. To select a truss system, you will need to carefully examine the lumber, the workpieces should be taken of increased length, taking into account the segmentation of unsuitable areas from the ends.

For rafters, use only the highest quality material

Maximum amount preparatory work must be done on a flat piece of land, the roof should be raised already prefabricated structures for fastening.

Temporary fixation of the rafter system should be carried out with various substandard boards, they also need to be raised to the roof in advance.

Step 1. Check the settings of the Mauerlat. Check the parallelism of the opposite Mauerlat bars, the deviation in parallelism should not exceed ± 2÷3 cm. Make sure that the Mauerlat fixation pins are installed correctly and at the required distances. Check if they are vertical.

Step 2. Making rafter legs. For the size of our bath, six pairs of rafter legs are enough.

Important: if you have to make a large number of identical elements, be sure to make one template. Each individual markup gives small errors, which can add up to a significant amount. In addition, using a template greatly speeds up the workflow.

For the rafter leg template, take edged boards 20x100 mm, approximately 3 meters long. At the top, overlap them with one nail (the knot must be movable), nail a horizontal section of the board to one board, it will serve as a crossbar template. The distance of the crossbar from the ridge part is within 40 ÷ 50 centimeters. Fix the crossbar only on one board, it is nailed to the second after choosing the angle of inclination of the rafter legs.

Raise the template to the roof, temporarily place it on the intended installation site of the rafters. Change the angle of inclination and the amount of extension, carefully make sure that the skate is located exactly in the middle of the bath. Found optimal location- nail the crossbar to the second board, strengthen the fastening of the boards and the ridge part with a few more nails.

Again put the prepared template on the Mauerlat and mark the place of the rafter connection node. You can connect them in various ways, we chose the simplest one - using a support bar and metal corners.

Fix the bar on the template in place of the support bar.

Step 3. Along the edges of the bath (in the place of the gables), nail vertical bars 50 × 50 mm.

The height of the bars should be equal to the height of the truss system, check their verticality, pull a strong rope or thread between them. Now a very important job is to check the template along the entire length of the bath. Install it in increments of about one meter and look at the slope and location of the support bar. It goes without saying that the ridge part should be on a thread. Problems were found in size within one centimeter - it does not matter, these irregularities will be eliminated during the installation of the crate under the roofing. If the variation in size is greater, you need to adjust the template in such a way as to achieve its optimal average performance. Everything is fine - carefully remove the template to the ground, if necessary, additionally strengthen all nodes.

Video - Assembly of rafters

Step 4 Lay the template on a flat area, put one rafter leg on it. Pay the main attention to the position of the ridge part, if there are knots, cut them off. The overhanging part of the rafters can be leveled at the last moment before installation or after the complete installation of the truss system.

Rafters in the ridge part can be connected in several ways.

The spike is the most reliable, but in our case it is not suitable - the boards are too thin. We recommend using a half-tree connection at the ridge.

It will be easier for you to use this option for connecting rafters with an emphasis at an angle of 90 °. To exclude displacements on both sides, the assembly must be fixed with metal plates on self-tapping screws, make sure that the self-tapping screws are not located against each other, place them evenly over the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe rafter legs.

You can make the top connection even easier - butt. But this is quite risky, too unstable design will eventually turn out. It is still suitable for climatic zones with a warm climate, but if in your zone the snow cover reaches large values, and there are often strong gusts of wind, then this method is not recommended.

Step 5 Make marks at the top and bottom of the rafters. In the upper part, you need to cut off at an angle, the connection will be butt. The cutting line should connect the top and bottom connection points of the template. It is very important - do not cut off two legs at once symmetrically, you need to take a drawing on each leg from the corresponding side. This assembly is connected on both sides by metal plates with a thickness of at least 2 mm. Make sure that the screws are not opposite each other, place them as evenly as possible over the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe rafter.

Step 6 According to the template, determine the place where the rafter leg rests in the Mauerlat, fix the board that is resistant to the Mauerlat in this place. It can be fixed from the bottom of the rafter leg to the edge of the board or from the side. This assembly must withstand significant shear forces; use powerful self-tapping screws or bolts to fix the stop.

Step 7 Lay the two prepared rafter legs on a level surface, once again check their position and the placement of the knots with the template. Everything is fine - carefully remove the template from the boards to the side, fix the crossbar in place.

Components of a roof truss
Truss assembly

Make sure that the upper ends of the rafters rest against each other over the entire cut area. The upper (ridge) node is considered the most loaded, it is affected by the greatest squeezing forces. Small gaps can still be trimmed, there are gaps of more than 3 ÷ 4 mm - you did the markup inaccurately, you will have to cut the ends again. It is for such unpleasant cases that we recommended taking boards with a margin in length, otherwise we would have to use new material, and this increases the cost of the truss system.

Fix the crossbar with an overlap to the rafter legs, for fixing you need to use long bolts or studs, the nuts are tightened from both sides. Enough for two of these bolts on each leg.

Do not forget that the bolt works in compression, do not allow vibrations in the joints. In order to eliminate the risks of cracking the rafters during the installation of hardware, drill holes for them with a diameter smaller than the diameter of the stud (or bolt) by 0.5 ÷ 1 mm. The pin should fit into the holes with force. The protruding part of the stud, the tightening field with nuts, must be cut off with a circular grinder (grinder).

Video - How to cut the rafters at the right angle and the right size

Step 8 In the same scenario, prepare and assemble all the remaining rafters. Lay them in a stack on top of each other, check the dimensions. Carefully inspect all bearing nodes. Found problems - immediately eliminate them, do not put off for "later". Firstly, it is much more convenient to do it on the ground. Secondly, "later" can be forgotten.

The set of rafter legs is assembled, feed it to the roof and start assembling the rafter system.

Installation of the truss system

All work must be done with the utmost responsibility, a violation of technology or poor-quality connections will definitely make themselves felt. Repairs will have to be difficult and expensive.

Step 1. Fasten the extreme (pediment) rafters. Temporarily fix them with scraps of boards. Carefully expose each foot at all nodal points, do not rush, check each size. Pull the ropes over the skate and along the sides. It is better to pull the side ropes on the overhangs of the rafters, in this position they are easier to install.

Step 2 Mark on the mauerlat the installation locations of the remaining rafter legs, the distance between them should be within one meter and the same.

Step 3 In turn, carefully lift each rafter leg, put it on the ropes and temporarily fix it with boards. Boards arrive both at an angle to each leg, and between already installed rafters.

Step 4 All rafters are pre-set - check the correctness of their location and start fixing the nodes with metal corners and planks on self-tapping screws. The thickness of the metal is at least 1.5 mm. Do not save on corners, install them on both sides of the rafter legs. As a result, you should get a design that is resistant to multidirectional loads. Trim the length of the lower part of the rafter legs, they should protrude beyond the perimeter of the bath by 30 ÷ 40 centimeters. The dimensions should also be trimmed under a stretched rope.

Metal plates for connecting rafters Fasteners for rafters

Step 5 Quite often, inexperienced builders make minor mistakes; during the installation of the truss system, they take on a mutually reinforcing effect. This leads to relaxation, the structure weakly resists longitudinal ridge loads, the rafter system staggers a little. This problem is solved by installing corner stops from boards under the extreme (pediment) legs. The thrust boards, by the way, will later serve as a frame during the sheathing of the gables.

Scheme of racks, which are the frame of the pediment and an additional jib

Lathing is done depending on the type of roofing. For soft coverings you need to make a continuous crate of plywood, OSB boards or cheap unedged boards. You can also take edged boards, but such a crate will be very expensive.

How to make a crate truss system

Consider two options for the crate: solid and lath.

The crate is ready, you can start covering the roof with roofing materials.

It is not worth repeating how important the roof of the bath is and what consequences errors can lead to during its construction. We will give some advice to "beginner" carpenters, this will help them feel calm throughout the entire period of operation of the bath.

The more complex the type of connection of individual elements of the rafter system, the more reliable it is. For example, a tenon joint can support both vertical and horizontal loads, while a lap joint only works with vertical loads.

We described only the simplest ways of connecting in bearing nodes, taking into account that many developers do not have enough experience to make complex connections. For such connections, “feel free” to use additional fasteners (metal plates and corners, homemade wooden supports, etc.). Let you "worse" a little appearance truss system, but greatly increase its stability. In addition, no one but you will see the roof of the bathhouse from the inside. BUT emergency everyone will see.

Carefully select lumber for the truss system. Try to avoid longitudinal joints of short rafters. The tree always shrinks/swells a little, which leads to changes in linear parameters. And this, in turn, gradually weakens the connections.

If you have the slightest doubt about the stability of the hanging truss system, install vertical grandmas, struts, puffs, etc. Does not have of great importance a specific type of additional stops, the main thing is that they give a positive effect. An ordinary ridge beam greatly increases the stability of the truss system to longitudinal loads.

Two boards with a thickness of 25 mm in bending strength significantly exceed the strength of a board with a thickness of 50 mm. Of course, with the same width. These are the laws of resistance of materials, use them. Connect the boards to each other through spacers from scraps of boards of any thickness. By the way, such "double" rafter legs are characterized by increased stability characteristics. As for the cost of the truss system, it hardly changes.

Self-tapping screws are excellent hardware. But only on one condition - they are not made in China. These "craftsmen" use very low quality alloys for their manufacture. Even large diameter substandard hardware has a very low performance physical strength. It is easy to check the quality of self-tapping screws - bend it at a right angle, high-quality material must withstand at least three bends. Chinese cracked, in best case, on the second try.

If you have not encountered a roof before, seek help from more experienced friends. It is not necessary to call for the help of an “expensive” mother, it is enough for your assistant to work as an assistant for him. And the last. Always consider getting under the roof. It can be a manhole from the dressing room or an opening window on the pediment. With their help, you can carry out periodic audits of the state of the truss system and roofing. The sooner leaks or problems with the geometry of the roof are detected, the easier and faster to fix them.

Roof sheathing (supported by rafters) and gable window
A window will be inserted into the opening. You can get to the roof by placing a ladder


Staircase to the loft

Video - Do-it-yourself bath roof

Video - Installation of rafters

Video - Installation of gables

Video - Roof installation (part 1)

Video - Roof installation (part 2)

The construction of baths involves the arrangement of the roof, the options for its creation may be different, but provided that one of them corresponds to this structure. The question of which bath roof design is preferable in this particular case worries many owners of private households, especially when the work is done on their own.

Bath usually on the backyard or suburban area they build it on their own, so you need to know not only how to make a roof, but also how to properly waterproof it and lay a heat-insulating layer, which roofing materials to prefer and other aspects of solving the problem. The fact is that the ceilings on this building have significant differences from the roofs on buildings for other purposes: the main load on its supporting structure is created from the inside of the room, and not from the outside.

As you know, the humidity and temperature conditions in the bath during the adoption of procedures are significantly increased and therefore a large amount of steam enters the attic space, after which it settles on the elements of the roof structure.

What are the roofs for baths

To help make a decision on how to make a roof for a bath, a construction project and applicable domestic building codes can help. First of all, when choosing the type of roof, take into account technical specifications buildings.

An important factor is the type of area where construction works:

• a simple bath not far from a residential building, they are usually built with a gable roof, such as in the photo;
• if significant precipitation is observed in the region in winter, then roofs with a large angle of inclination are chosen, but not more than 45 degrees. Such a structural solution allows the snow mass not to linger on the roof, and it rolls down;
• in the steppe or forest-steppe natural area, where there are frequent gusts strong wind, the choice is stopped at a minimum slope, due to which the roof structure has such aerodynamic properties that allow you to avoid heavy loads on it;
• in the case when the building is attached to a residential building, the problem of how to make the roof of the bath is simply solved - it is created shed in accordance with technical specifications at home (detailed: "").

From what option is chosen for the arrangement of the roof and the material for its creation, how reliably they are made installation work, will depend on the period of its operation without repair or restoration. Multi-pitched roofs have the most presentable appearance; they have more complex structure and they provide the structure with an original appearance. But they are not always a reasonable solution, since they are expensive for the owners.

Features of creating bath roofs

Each of the options for how to make a roof in a bath has its own characteristics and advantages. So the presence of an attic improves the appearance of the building and ensures the creation effective thermal insulation, and this factor is very important, since the bath is most often used in the cold season.

Regarding what material is best in the bath, it depends on its slope. Using metal roofing this parameter should be approximately 20 degrees, and if a slate is to be created, then about 30 degrees. Roll coating requires the roof slope to be within 5 degrees.

In the absence of an attic, the slope, regardless of the roofing material used, cannot be more than 10 degrees.

Rafter system for the roof of the bath

Before making the roof of the bath, it is necessary to equip a supporting truss structure for it, consisting of separate trusses. They also carry out the crate and select the material for laying on the roof.

In the upper part of the strapping there are floor beams. Before that, to support the legs of the truss system, a beam called a Mauerlat is mounted. At the same time, special nests are made in the walls of the building, which are necessary to comply with the strictly horizontal arrangement of the floor beams, which are produced outside the outer perimeter of the bath. The size of the release is regulated depending on the design solution, but if it is more than 50 centimeters, the installation of support poles will be required.

Before you put the roof on the bath, before fixing the rafter trusses to the required places, you need to make sure that they are fully consistent with each other. To do this, you can put them all in one pile, and if there are deviations, it is desirable to correct such elements, and, if necessary, redo them. Otherwise, if the defects are not eliminated, the reliability roof structure will be violated.

After that, on the overlapping beams or on the Mauerlat, the corresponding markup is performed. It is possible, to give greater reliability, to nail the trimmings of the bars in such a way that the supporting parts of the rafter legs are located in the space between the trimmings. This method of installing the truss system allows you to significantly speed up the work and prevent errors and miscalculations in the size and location of trusses.

How to insulate the ceiling in the bath, in detail on the video:

At the same time, front trusses are attached to the center of the roof at a very slight angle, which gives load-bearing structure the necessary rigidity and allows it to withstand significant wind loads during operation. All others roof trusses mounted at the same distance, which should be one meter, and fixed in the right place, stitching with a ridge board.

After the installation of the truss structure is completed, they begin to create a crate, which is made solid or sparse, depending on the roofing material that is decided to be used to cover the roof.

The choice of thermal insulation for the roof of the bath

The choice of how to make the roof of the bath involves the purchase of high-quality heat-insulating material, since the reliability and strength of the roof is affected by the increased temperature from the steam room. If not done proper insulation, in winter, the integrity of the roof will be threatened by the formation of condensate, which will certainly cause irreparable damage.

• the insulation is fixed under the rafter system;
• thermal insulation is laid on the roof structure;
• thermal insulation products are placed in the gaps between the trusses. This option is the most preferable because it is easy to implement and requires a minimum of time.

Construction of a bath for permanent operation it is impossible to perform without roof insulation, because the safety during long period wood materials that were used. The insulation is laid as close as possible to all planes of the truss structure. Even small holes and cracks are not allowed.

Most often used for insulation mineral wool, which, as a building material, has excellent thermal insulation characteristics, low price and environmental safety. Some property owners use foam as a heater, which is less often chosen due to its poor environmental friendliness.

In addition to thermal insulation, when creating a roof for a bath building, one must remember to provide hydro and vapor barriers, which provide the interior with the opportunity to "breathe".

Foreword

A bathhouse on the site is the greatest pride of any owner, especially if it was built with your own hands. In order for this building to bring joy and last for a long time, you need to take care of how to build the roof of the bath correctly. Warming is important for a steam room. We will tell you how to make the ceiling in the bath without unnecessary mistakes.

The roof of the bath - what everyone should know

Depending on the type of structures, the roof may differ in its design and shape. main feature bath roof - its light weight. Therefore, such a roof has a simple design.

Before you make the roof of the bath, you need to think about the type of building itself. Such a building may be located on land plot separately or be attached to the house. You also need to think about the type of roof, which can be either single-pitched or gable.

It is important to choose the slope of the roof. The angle of inclination of the slope depends on the weather conditions. The roof must withstand wind and snow. Therefore, than less angle slope, the less heavy precipitation the roof can withstand.

Features of a pitched roof

This type of bath roof is the easiest to build, less labor-intensive and cheap in cost. A similar design lies in the fact that the beams are laid horizontally on opposite walls of the bath. The angle of inclination of the slope is provided by different heights building walls.

A roof with one slope can be made with an attic or built there attic room. From the point of view of thermophysical indicators, such baths have the best thermal insulation properties. Such rooms can be used to store bath equipment, stack firewood for a fireplace and stove there. It is possible to make a lounge there.

To save money, attic space is not made. In this case, the bath roof can be combined with the ceiling. With this option, building materials will require significantly less than for the construction of an attic or attic.

Bath roof construction - construction stages

Step 2: Mounting the support beams

Along the upper perimeter of the walls, it is necessary to lay boards that will support the entire truss system. During this process, it is imperative to monitor the evenness of the beams. Such control can be done using the usual level. At this stage, support posts will be required if the boards protrude more than 50 cm beyond the wall.

Step 3: Installing the truss system

At this stage, it is necessary to install the rafters on the supports in increments of 1–1.5 m. You can fix them with metal brackets.

Step 4: Building the crate

The crate is necessary so that the roofing materials have something to attach to. Depending on the roof covering, the crate can be either solid or with gaps. The first option is used for ondulin or roofing material. In this case, boards of 20 mm thickness will be required. Be sure to take into account that the joints of each row must be in different places. To achieve this, it is better to use different lengths of boards. In the case of using metal tiles or slate, a continuous cover of the crate is not required. To do this, you can fix the boards with a gap of 20-30 cm.

Step 5: Roof waterproofing

In order to avoid excess moisture and leakage during rain or snowmelt, it is imperative to make a hydro-vapor barrier of the roof. To do this, the vapor barrier film is fixed with a stapler to the crate. Placed on top of this film waterproofing material. Flooring, as a rule, is done along the roof, starting from the eaves. Waterproofing should be laid with an overlap of 5 cm on top of each other. You can also fasten this material with a construction stapler.

Step 6: Covering the roof with roofing material

The metal tile flooring starts from the lower corner of the bath roof. Sheets must be laid on top of each other with an overlap of 10–20 cm. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws with rubber gaskets in the area of ​​the hat. This will prevent leakage when it rains. When the last sheets of the top row are fixed, you can proceed with the installation of the ridge. As a rule, galvanized metal is used for this procedure.

Step 7: Sheathing the end of the roof

For sewing the roof, you can use lining or ordinary boards that need to be fixed without gaps. Siding can also be used as end cladding. This material is easy to use, inexpensive and looks nice.

The ceiling in the bath - important properties

Structural elements of the ceiling should not contribute to the wetting of the insulation. Otherwise thermal insulation material may lose its heat-saving properties. As a result, the bath will quickly cool down, which is unacceptable for such buildings.

A significant role is played by the height of the ceiling of the bath. The ceiling should not be too high or too low. To calculate the optimal ceiling height, take into account the maximum height of people who will take bath procedures. The next criterion for calculating the height is the size and number of shelves.

Be sure to take into account the possibility of a comfortable swing with a broom. If a log bath is being built, then 10–20 cm must be added to the height of the ceilings for future shrinkage. As a rule, for people with a height of up to 190 cm, a ceiling with a height of 2.5 m is sufficient. and

Types of bath ceilings and their insulation

There are several common types ceiling coverings. The first type can be attributed to the false ceiling. Its design consists of boards (cut or tongue-and-groove), which are attached to the ceiling beams. It is also required to lay a vapor barrier on top of the beams, spread waterproofing. On top of these layers, heat-insulating material is laid, which also needs to be covered with a layer of vapor and waterproofing. Foam plastic, mineral wool is used as a heater, or bulk material (expanded clay) is used.

To positive properties this type of ceiling refers to simplicity in the device. High level thermal insulation, no doubt, is also a positive criterion for choosing which design. because of a large number different layers, such a ceiling is very reliable and can last a long time. Concerning negative factors, then this includes the cost of erecting such a structure. The price is affected by the use of a thick beam for the ceiling beam.

The next type of ceiling is floor. Differs in simplicity of a design, it is constructed by means of a continuous flooring of the cut-off boards. Thermal insulation with a vapor barrier film is laid on top of them.

Basalt wool is most often used for insulation. Bulk materials can also be used as heat and vapor barrier. They fill all the cracks and cavities well, this results in a continuous layer of insulation. For bulk materials, it is necessary to make sides along the perimeter of the attic. When using this type of insulation, use attic space impossible, since bulk materials cannot withstand high loads.

Among the main disadvantages of this design is the impossibility of creating a ceiling with a height of more than 2.5 m.

This is due to the fact that it does not apply ceiling beam. To negative factors this type can also be attributed to the susceptibility of the insulation to moisture. insulating material will get wet quite often and will need to be replaced frequently.

The third type is the panel ceiling. This design consists of panels that are assembled separately. The main element is bearing beams. The box itself is assembled from boards. A pie made of hydro, steam and thermal insulation is laid inside such a trough. Boards must be laid on top of these materials. For this purpose, cut bars of any length can be used.