Floor covering in the apartment: what is better to do? Which floor is better to do in an apartment: tips and solutions

Each owner of an apartment, making repairs, inevitably faces a choice: which floor is better? The task is made more difficult by the fact that flooring selected for each room separately. Long gone are the days when the floors throughout the apartment were made of floorboards, painted with paint, linoleum, at best - parquet. The modern variety of materials and possibilities make the floor an important part of the design, the basis for creating an optimal microclimate.

Which floor in the apartment is better - criteria for choosing

The floor is the basis of any room, it is most susceptible to pollution, abrasion, and mechanical damage. According to the functional loads, requirements follow - it must be durable, wear-resistant, safe, even, providing a stable position for furniture and objects, easy to clean, wet cleaning.

The choice of flooring depends on many factors - material possibilities, design features premises, you need to consider whether the apartment is warm or not, on which floor it is located, from what materials the house is built. Sometimes a lot depends on these nuances, it happens that the planned project cannot be implemented only because the apartment is located on the ground floor and because of basement high humidity in the apartment, moreover, mold and fungus. When choosing a floor covering, it should be borne in mind that each type has its own laying technology, which causes a difference in height, if these differences are significant, it is important that they do not cause discomfort and do not create obstacles. Sometimes in the whole apartment it is impossible to do concrete screed, because this creates a large load on the floors, an emergency situation may arise in old houses.

Each owner chooses which flooring is best based on lifestyle, family composition, and the presence of animals in the house. If this is a large family, in addition, the house contains pets, then the choice, first of all, is dictated by considerations of practicality, hygiene, the possibility of frequent cleaning, the aesthetic component fades into the background. For a respectable married couple, sophistication, beautiful appearance of the floor, elegance, prestige come first. Such a floor can emphasize social status so that each guest can appreciate the material wealth of the owners.

Before deciding which floor in the apartment is better, you need to determine what room it is intended for. Three main areas can be distinguished in the apartment: rest rooms, work areas, and cross-country areas. Each zone performs certain functions, and everywhere the floor plays a different role.

Which floor is better in the kitchen

The kitchen is the working area of ​​​​the apartment, the whole family gathers here, food is prepared, food is processed. experiences heavy loads due to high humidity, pollution, high traffic, mechanical impact from impacts of dishes and heavy objects. Accordingly, the floors in the kitchen must be moisture-resistant, impact-resistant, wear-resistant, easy to clean, resistant to impact. chemical substances, splashes of grease, hot liquids.

The most popular material is ceramic tiles. This coating is not afraid of dirt, moisture, easy to clean, has long term service, does not fade, does not wear out, does not burn. It is better to choose a tile not with a glossy surface, but with a matte one, because. liquid spills often in the kitchen, and such a floor can turn into a slippery surface. In case of floods, which often happens in kitchens, such a floor will not suffer at all and will protect the neighboring apartment from water penetration. A variety of colors, patterns, imitation of natural materials, different ways styling allows you to implement any design idea. The main disadvantage of ceramic tiles is coldness, which is especially inconvenient when there are small children in the house. This problem can be solved by making a heated floor.

Linoleum is no less popular material, it attracts, first of all, with its accessibility, ease of installation. Easy to wash, clean. not afraid of moisture. With a large roll width, a seamless surface can be achieved. Manufacturers produce linoleum with improved properties, resistant to abrasion, with a thick base, good heat and sound insulation, such linoleum will last a long time. A variety of colors allows you to choose a floor covering for any style and design.

Recently, liquid linoleum based on polyurethane, the so-called self-leveling floor, has been very popular. To the touch it resembles a tile - a smooth solid surface, in appearance - it is an absolutely flat, seamless surface. Such a floor is very durable, not afraid of moisture, unpretentious in care, easy to clean. Disadvantages - expensive limited opportunities when decorating, during the next repair, it is not easy to remove such a coating.

Wood is not the best material for a kitchen. Floor, parquet board, laminated parquet are afraid of moisture and can swell, hopelessly ruining the floor covering. Even the most expensive durable varnish coating does not guarantee the preservation of an attractive appearance from frequent washing. But given that the tree is the most comfortable material to create an atmosphere of comfort, warmth, environmentally friendly, you can use a compromise option - combined floors in the kitchen. For example, in working area to make a floor with ceramic tiles, in the dining room - from wood. In this case, it is possible to achieve the optimal combination of comfort and hygiene. This technique is especially convenient when the kitchen is connected to the living room, with the help of the floor you can clearly delimit the space.

Which floor is better in the hallway

The entrance hall is a cross-country zone, most of all subject to abrasion, exposure to street dirt, dust, and water. It is in the hallway that the floor is most often subjected to mechanical damage, because. does not come into contact with house slippers, but with street shoes with rough soles and sharp heels, bicycles, sleds, skis. The floor must be durable, moisture resistant, wear-resistant, practical. On the other hand, the hallway business card apartments, this is the first thing that guests pay attention to, so I want to make the floor beautiful so that it harmonizes with design decoration. The task is often complicated by the fact that the hallways are small, have an elongated shape with a narrow width, especially in Khrushchev-built apartments.

The most practical materials are ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware. Especially, porcelain stoneware, it has practically no restrictions on the service life, it is easy to clean and wash, it is not afraid of any blows, dirt, moisture, stains, traces of rubber shoes. Ceramic tiles are cheaper, but in terms of their characteristics, they are not much inferior to porcelain stoneware. You just need to keep in mind that the glossy surface creates certain inconveniences, if pieces of snow stick to the sole, then such a floor turns into a real ice rink, it is better to choose with a matte surface.

Linoleum is a popular hallway material. But cheap PVC linoleum will not work, it will quickly become unusable, trampled “paths” form on the surface in the most passable places. It is necessary to lay only semi-commercial or commercial linoleum. Most perfect option- natural linoleum, it will last for decades, is not afraid of dirt, scratches, water. Not less than suitable option- homogeneous commercial linoleum, where the pattern penetrates to the full depth and does not wear out, no scratches and dents will spoil the appearance and will not be noticeable. The color range of linoleum is extensive, so that it can be chosen for any room.

Laminate for the hallway must be selected, starting from the 32nd grade. It is strong, wear-resistant, durable, not afraid of shock. The only drawback is the joints between the panels. It is not easy to achieve perfect tightness during laying, and with frequent washing, water penetrates deep into, and the chipboard base will swell. You can process the joints with special sealants, but this work is painstaking and requires great care.

Parquet is not the best good option, although it looks great in the hallway. Only piece parquet made of solid wood with a good lacquer coating will last a long time, but this is an expensive material, it is afraid of moisture, and the lacquer coating is quickly deformed from dirt and sand.

Which floor is better in the bedroom

The bedroom is the most secluded place in the house, it is a relaxation area. Close attention is always paid to the repair and design of the bedroom, it is very important to create special atmosphere favorable for peace of mind and psychological comfort. The microclimate in the bedroom should be special, safe for health. The floor covering should be warm, soft, pleasant for bare feet.

The most optimal is a tree, it is environmentally friendly, warm, safe, besides, it is the tree that is associated with comfort and tranquility. Parquet - perfect solution, but it is quite expensive and not accessible to everyone, difficult to install, requires constant care, it needs to be polished with a special composition. The parquet board is already covered with oil and varnish at the factory, does not require special care and retains its appearance well for a long time.

Laminate is a popular bedroom flooring. It is not necessary to buy an expensive one, a laminate and an economy class, which is not wear-resistant, is suitable, it is warm, environmentally friendly. safe material. The pattern with imitation of wood is in perfect harmony with any interior.

Cork flooring works well for the floor in the bedroom. It's ecological pure material, soft, warm, with good sound insulation, it does not slip due to the rough surface, does not become electrified and does not attract dust. Cork is not afraid of dents from impacts of heavy objects, even if a trace remains, then it is likely that it will disappear over time, the only warning is sharp cutting objects. Cork flooring is easy to lay, no pre-screed is required. It is easy to care for such a floor, it is enough to wipe it with a damp cloth.

Carpet is another popular bedroom material. This floor is very pleasant for the feet, fills the room with an atmosphere of intimacy, comfort. It is best to buy carpet from natural materials - wool, cotton, linen, jute. It is not recommended to lay cheap synthetic carpet, it wears out quickly, moreover, it is environmentally unsafe. In the bedroom, carpet with a high pile is best. It should be borne in mind that in apartments with high humidity carpet made from natural materials can be exposed to the harmful effects of insects, rotting. Such a floor is afraid of moisture, it can only be vacuumed and cleaned with special means.

Fashion for floor coverings changes every 5-7 years, new materials, technologies, installation methods appear. Regardless of the choice of coating, the floor must be laid professionally, in compliance with all rules. And which gender is better - everyone chooses for himself. The main thing is that it matches general style, met the requirements of hygiene, safety and served for many years, delighting with its appearance.

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It is equally important to consider the number of storeys of the apartment. I'll explain why: if you live on the first floor, then remember, there is an unheated basement below. And that means high humidity and cold. If you live on the second floor and above, then under you there will be a residential heated and dry apartment.

When choosing a floor covering, I also recommend considering the height of the room. Some technologies are simply unrealistic to introduce into an apartment, for example, wooden floors on logs if the ceiling height is 220 cm. Another point is the floor difference between rooms. We level the floors at all our facilities.

If your apartment has a wooden floor, then I do not advise pouring a concrete screed. There will be a heavy load on him. On the contrary, choose a coating that is light in weight, such as laminate or linoleum. Well, it is important to pay attention to aesthetics.

From a practical point of view, I also advise you to choose flooring by zone. For example, tiles for the kitchen and bathroom, wood, laminate and the like can be laid in the bedroom.

Advice

Zone the territory. Separate it with a color, it's beautiful and convenient.

Here's what the floors look like with zoning:

What basis to use

The draft base in the apartment can be made from:

1. Wet screed.

2. Semi-dry screed.

3. Dry screed.

Wet screed

· Long drying time. After pouring, about 30 days or more should pass for complete hardening.

• There is a lot of dirt in the process.

· On the square meter there is a serious load, which can reach up to 70 kg / m 2.

Shrinkage may occur as moisture evaporates.

• Serious labor required.

• High strength.
• Relatively low cost.

· Various engineering systems can be laid in the screed.

· For achievement required level can be poured thick layer without consequences.

Important! Provided that at least three people will pour the screed: one on the batch, the second on the rule, the third on the tray, then on average it is possible to pour the screed for a working day with an area of ​​​​up to 50 m 2 with a thickness of about 50 mm. at the same time, it takes about a day to install beacons.

Work on pouring a wet screed costs about 400 rubles. per m 2.

Semi-dry screed

We use this option in all our facilities. You can read more about the technology on our second website - http://qualityfloor.ru/

· Dependence weather conditions. At sub-zero temperatures, work is prohibited.

• Difficult to implement on your own.

· Excellent quality is maintained at high speed.

After a while, cracks do not appear on the surface.

· Eliminates the possibility of water leakage into the lower room.

· Unlike a wet screed, a semi-dry screed is 15% cheaper.

Important! One brigade traditional way pouring a semi-dry screed is capable of pouring up to 100 m 2. If use mechanized way, then up to 300 m 2 in one day.

The cost of materials: cement M500 50 kg - 350 rubles, washed sand 1 m 3 - 1100 rubles. The cost of work, which includes work by the rule and by helicopter, reaches up to 150 rubles. per m 2.

Dry screed

Disadvantages:

· Hydrophilicity. I explain: if a pipe breaks under a dry screed, then the screed will have to be made completely anew, with preliminary dismantling work.

• Cannot be installed in the shower and bathroom.

Advantages:

• Wet processes are completely absent.
• Increased sound and thermal insulation.
• Environmental friendliness.

· Little weight. Three times lighter than concrete wet screed.

• After installation, the floors are ready for use.

Important! In one day, a team of qualified specialists is able to produce 50 m 2 of dry screed.

The cost of installing a dry screed "Knauf" per m 2 ranges from 450 to 1300 rubles. The price depends on the method of production and volumes. For example, a dry floor screed up to 10 m 2, which includes dry backfill and a floor element 1000 rubles / m 2. With a similar composition, a volume of 30 m 3 will cost you 450 rubles. I will advise you to compare the offers of several construction companies at once in order to choose the most favorable price.

Noise isolation

Styrofoam

Advantages:

• Easy installation.
• Easy to cut.
• Elastic and strong material.
• Service life up to 25 years.
• Not afraid of moisture.

• Flammable material.

· Existence of joints that reduces noise-insulating properties.

The cost of foam plastic per m 3 with a thickness of 10 mm is 280 rubles. (I didn't find the price for the job)

Mineral wool

In my opinion, mineral wool is one of the best building materials providing excellent floor sound insulation. However, mineral wool cannot be poured with concrete. It is only suitable for wooden floors. For example, laying between floor beams.

• The ability to absorb sound waves.
• Does not burn.
• Does not emit harmful and dangerous toxic gases.
• The ability to cope with temperatures up to +1000°C.
• Possibility of laying without a cold bridge.
• Service life up to 25 years.
• Mineral wool is resistant to various aggressive environments.

· Throughout all term of operation mineral wool keeps the properties.

• Vapor permeability.

• Afraid of moisture.

· Difficulties during installation (protective clothing must be worn).

The cost of mineral wool per package differs based on its thickness. For example, mineral wool 100 mm thick 600 × 800 mm costs 450 rubles. Mineral wool 600 mm thick 600 × 100 mm costs 650 rubles.

Important! The cost of installing sound insulation with mineral wool per m 2 will cost 200 rubles.

Expanded clay

If a screed is poured, then in my experience and practice, expanded clay is the most The best decision. Its price is much lower. The price depends on the faction. It is sold in bags. For example, a fraction of 10–20 mm with a volume of 0.05 m 3 costs 85 rubles, and a fraction of up to 5 mm with a volume of 0.05 m 3 costs 140 rubles.

Important! The cost of backfilling expanded clay per m 2 is 60 rubles.

Positive sides:

• Low price.
• Natural product - environmental friendliness.

· Does not change its structure when the temperature changes.

• It does not start various microorganisms.
• Refractory material.
• Noise isolation is provided by the porosity of its structure.

Negative sides:

• Very brittle due to porosity.

· Due to the low density, it is necessary to fill up a soundproof pillow of a decent height. In apartments with small ceilings, it is impossible to implement.

• The ability to absorb moisture.

Warming

As for the floor insulation in the apartment, I advise all my customers not to miss this opportunity. Especially when the apartment is on the first floor and there is an unheated basement under you. Floor insulation will eliminate heat loss.

Important! If a floor heating system is laid on the floor, then floor insulation is simply necessary. There should be a reflective film on the heaters. Due to this, all the heat emitted will rise up the apartment.

Various materials are used for insulation.

Styrofoam

Expanded polystyrene is sold in packages. Depending on the manufacturer, the price ranges from 1.1 to 4 thousand rubles. Work for m 2 will cost you 150 rubles.

• Easy installation.
• Light weight.
• Environmental friendliness.
• It does not contain different microorganisms.
• Does not pass moisture and heat.
• Service life of 50 years or more.

• combustible
• Upon reaching a temperature of 90 ° is deformed.

Cork

It costs a roll of cork 2 mm thick - 1200 rubles. The cork thickness of 6 mm has a price per roll - 3800 rubles. In my opinion, the use of this heater is unjustified. There are much cheaper heaters. But in some cases this is the only optimal solution. The price of work for installation is 320 rubles. m 2.

• Long service life.
• Environmental friendliness.
• Does not rot, does not spread mold.
• After a while, it does not lose its characteristics.
• Lets air through.

• Difficult installation process.

· High price. But in my opinion the quality justifies the price.

Ecowool

One of the modern solutions. In my opinion, the most effective way to insulate a wooden floor in an apartment. The cost of 1 kg is 28 rubles. Work for 1m 2 costs from 1600 rubles. (wet method). In my opinion, perfect combination quality at low cost.

• Lets air through.
• Low cost.

· Does not breed mold, does not rot. Insects and mice do not start in it.

• Easy installation.
• Seamless insulation.

Important! Minuses: main disadvantage in that after a while, dry laying of ecowool becomes caked. Therefore, when insulating the floor, I recommend tamping it well, on average, 1 m 3 will consume 50 kg.

Water heated floor

For many customers living in an apartment, I advise you to make a warm water floor. However, it is not always possible to do so. For example, your apartment has low ceilings, and a heating cake can take up at least 70 mm. It is not always possible to pour the screed onto a water-heated floor, due to weak overlap. It is also important to consider the choice of flooring. For example, under the laminate, all the heat is eaten up and reach comfortable temperature it will be hard.

Advice! As my practice shows, a water-heated floor is ideally combined with ceramic tiles. She has high level thermal conductivity, which allows not to detain thermal energy in the body of the screed.

· Lining insulation (which are which are cheaper and better, briefly describe)

Floor materials

The modern market offers big choice floor finishing materials. I propose to compare the most common facing materials.

Parquet

• Ease of use.
• Durability about 100 years.
• Beautiful appearance.
• It matches perfectly with any style of interior.

· High price. Especially when exotic wood species are used.

• Needs to be polished from time to time.
• There is a lot of noise when walking.

The cost of a piece parquet is 950 rubles/m2, and a parquet board is from 800 to 2000 rubles/m2. The work will cost 1000 rubles. per m 2.

Laminate

There are many manufacturers of laminate, respectively, the cost of the laminate is different. I take off from the class. For an apartment, I advise you to purchase a laminate class of at least 33. So the price per m 2 is in the region from 300 to 2400 rubles / m 2. The cost of installation is on average 350 rubles / m 2.

Benefits of laminate:

· Packing convenient for transportation and manual carrying.

• Simulates various building materials.
• Easy care.
• Wear resistance (depending on the class).
• Relatively simple and quick installation.
• Can be installed in different rooms.

· Resistant to negative effects of UV, does not fade. Some planks are even moisture resistant.

• Does not breed mold and fungus.

Cons of laminate:

・Unable to recover upper layer in case of wear. A complete replacement is needed.

• Makes a lot of noise when walking.
• Unnatural tactile sensations.
• Rigidity.

The presence of formaldehyde calls into question the environmental friendliness.

· Without deformation joints, the coating will spread or swell.

Linoleum

The cost of linoleum ranges from 200 to 1.5 thousand rubles / m 2. The cost is affected by its class, for example, commercial, household, and so on. For an apartment, I recommend buying linoleum no cheaper than 500 rubles / m 2. Installation cost: for glue 320 rubles/m 2 , without glue 250 rubles/m 2 .

• Relatively inexpensive flooring.

Resistant to moisture and steam. Actual for rooms in an apartment with high humidity, for example, a kitchen.

• Wear-resistant (depending on the class).
• Easy installation. You can use glue or not.
• Does not slip when wet.
• Easy care.

· Linoleum has a specific smell. It goes away after two weeks.

• Weak wear resistance to punctures.
• A perfectly flat floor surface is required.

Wood

In my opinion, the tree is the most win-win option when finishing the floor in the apartment. just keep in mind that it fits on the logs. Therefore, the height of the ceilings should allow such luxury. The cost of a wooden floor per m 2 varies based on the thickness of the board. The average price is 450 rubles / m 2. The flooring of the board along the logs will cost 400 rubles / m 2.

• Excellent aesthetic appearance.
• Pleasant tactile sensations when walking.

· In addition, wooden floors insulate the base. You can walk barefoot.

· Easy to operate. Once every 5 years, a coat of paint / varnish is applied and the floors are like new.

· A new floor covering can be laid on the old wooden floor.

• Easily repairable.

Difficulty in installation. Many nuances must be taken into account.

• It is impossible to achieve perfect evenness of the floor.
• If the installation technology is not followed, they creak.

Tile

The cost of ceramic tiles varies based on its collection. You can find tiles for 400 rubles / m 2, and there are collections of 17 thousand rubles / m 2. The cost of work is within 1000 rubles / m 2.

• Hard and durable coating.
• Does not let moisture through, unless there is a flood.
• continuous service life services.
• Hygiene.
• Easy to clean up.
• Resistant to temperature extremes.
• Resistant to chemical aggressive agents.

· High thermal conductivity. It's cold to walk on tiles without underfloor heating.

• Harmful in case of moisture.
• High price.
• Installation difficulties.

Rating of floor materials

Updating or replacing an old, worn floor in an apartment is one of the most time-consuming operations in the overall renovation process. Just imagining the scale and cost of the future, many homeowners very often refuse to repair floors, limiting themselves only to changing decorative coating on them. But time takes its toll, and sooner or later the moment comes when it becomes simply impossible to delay such work.

In this case, it is not at all necessary to immediately look for a team of craftsmen - especially since in such a service sector one can often meet frank "hacks". As a result, everything can result in a completely unnecessary waste of time, nerves and money with a low-quality result. Why not try doing it yourself? If the owner has certain skills in general construction work, and if he repairs the floor in the apartment with his own hands in stages, in compliance with the recommended technological rules, then everything should work!

The stages of repair, of course, depend on the type of floors, their initial condition, the purpose of the premises in which the work is being carried out, and the type of finish. In this publication, several of the most common options will be considered.

Since the owner of the apartment is thinking about repairing the floor, then, most likely, there are motivating reasons for this, unless, of course, this is a cosmetic replacement of the coating due to another whim of the wife. Therefore, first you need to identify and clearly formulate problems - the whole scale of further preparatory and repair work will depend on this.

This publication is about a city apartment, and in the vast majority multi-storey buildings any floor has a basis in the form reinforced concrete slab overlap. But here the further design can already differ significantly. The floor can be arranged on logs fixed to the base, or laid directly on a concrete screed.

• The wooden floor on the logs usually begins to show its defects with a creak, instability of the coating - the floorboards “play” underfoot, the appearance bad smell rot, formation and gradual expansion of cracks. Even worse, if suddenly one of the boards cracks or its fragment falls down.

The dilapidated wooden floor reminds of itself with a creak and "playing" boards

• The old screed, on which the coating is laid, from “old age” can also begin to present surprises, especially if it was once filled with poor quality. So, the appearance of obvious squeaks and rustling from sand or small pebbles, the “floundering” of the screed, the appearance of washed out surface areas, the violation of the evenness of the finish coating, and sometimes the obvious instability of the whole large fragment are also not excluded.

In any case, if there are obvious defects, remove the old coating.

Removing the old coating

• All furniture will need to be removed from the room, completely freeing it for further work. If repairs are not carried out in the entire apartment at once, but from room to room, it will be necessary to provide protection against the spread of dust, for example, by covering the entrance with a curtain made of thick polyethylene film or a frequently dampened cloth, and covering the gap under the door with a wet rag roller. True, the full effectiveness of this method is very doubtful, and the best option is to provide for the resettlement of family members for the duration of the repair. However, a dust barrier is necessary in any case.
• Next, the old baseboards are removed. Do this carefully so as not to damage the bottom of the walls to which they are attached. If the plinths are supposed to be used further, then they are numbered according to their location and temporarily removed.

If someone has not come across this case before, then we can remind you that the skirting boards are attached to the wall, and not to the floor surface, that is, you need to correctly direct the lever force. It will be easier if the skirting boards are fixed on self-tapping screws or on special brackets.

The next step is actually removing the old coating. There are several options here:

BUT. If the floor is covered with some roll material, then they hook it on one of the sides and try to carefully roll it into a roll - it will be easier to take it out. In the event that the coating (for example, linoleum or carpet) was once laid without glue, directly on a concrete screed, this will not be difficult to do. You can first, to facilitate the action, make a sharp construction knife parallel cuts, thereby dividing the entire canvas into several narrower tapes.

But often there are situations in which the old material departs along with the layers of the exfoliated screed. Then you will have to remove it fragmentarily and immediately take it out of the room along with pieces of concrete so that this construction debris does not interfere further work.

It happens that once high-quality glued linoleum, when removed, begins to delaminate itself, leaving dried layers on the screed. In this case, you will have to work with a scraper (spatula), warming up these areas with the help of building hair dryer or dampening the old adhesive layer with a solution of floor cleaner.

B. More trouble can deliver the old "playing" parquet. If it is of no value, then its dies are sequentially removed, immediately loaded into bags, which are taken out as they are filled. If once the parquet was glued to bituminous mastic or organic-based glue, then removing individual dice or even whole fragments can be difficult. The "recipe" is the same - a scraper, a chisel and heating with a hair dryer.

AT. To remove the old tile, it is most convenient to use a puncher switched to chiseling mode with a chisel-shovel installed. If such a tool is not available, then everything is done manually, using a hammer and chisel.

G. When stripping a plank floor, the hardest part is probably picking up and separating the first floorboard. Further, when it will be possible to freely start the lever, the work will go faster. For work, you will need a nail puller with a long lever handle, a hammer, and pliers. You need to try to take out the nails carefully, without destroying the boards, since, quite possibly, this material will still serve for a new flooring after repairs or for making logs.

If the old coating was fastened with screws (self-tapping screws), then you can try to dismantle it with a screwdriver.

Well, if the plank coating is no longer of any value, then it will be most convenient to make cuts using a manual vertical circular (carefully and prudently so as not to hook the concrete base, not damage the logs and not “run into” a nail). After such a separation of long floorboards, their removal will be an easy task.

Is it worth removing the entire plank flooring if obvious defects were observed only in certain areas, and there are no plans to replace it with a different type of surface finish? Of course, you can limit yourself to only partial repairs - the replacement of worn or deteriorated parts. But experts unanimously advise - shoot everything completely. There is no guarantee that if the decay process manifested itself in one area of ​​​​the floor, then it will not show itself in another in a year, or even earlier. It will be cheaper to renew the base and re-lay the floor, even using old material, than to return to such repairs again after a short period.

Foundation audit

After the floor covering is removed, it is necessary to carefully examine the base.

• If logs remain on the floor, and it is planned to re-lay the boardwalk, then you should carefully check the condition of these load-bearing elements and the supports on which they are installed. Log beams should not have areas of decomposition, rottenness, fungus damage - such parts are subject to mandatory replacement. Each lag is checked under load - it should not hang out, bend, creak, etc. If necessary, update the linings that hold the guide at the desired height.

If the state of the lag does not cause concern, then after a thorough cleaning in the spaces between them it will be possible to lay a new coating. Perhaps most old floorboards are fine for this. After such a bulkhead, the floor will stop creaking and gain the necessary stability. If required, thermal insulation material can be laid between the lags, which will also take on the role of a sound insulator.

However, on the old wooden floor very often the lags themselves are quite worn out, and their repair is impossible or does not guarantee durability. In this case, they will have to be dismantled in order to subsequently install new ones. When removing the lag, remember that they can be firmly attached to the base base. It is necessary to exercise accuracy and discretion in order to prevent a strong destruction of the concrete base and not add unnecessary worries to restore it.

After removing the lag, the most thorough cleaning of the base of the floor is carried out so that you can proceed to the next steps.

In the event that, after removing the old topcoat, a concrete screed opens under it, it is most carefully examined. It must be assumed that the concrete is strong in itself, and repair of such a surface is optional.

The screed must be tapped - this will help to reveal areas of its delamination, which must be removed to a “healthy” base. The surface is checked for the presence of loose places, those where, due to a violation of the pouring technology, the solution did not gain strength or was eroded due to moisture. These areas also need to be cleaned.

It should not be left on the surface of large cracks - from here the process of destructuring of the base may continue. Slots and cracks lie cutting in breadth and depth of at least 10 - 15 mm, for subsequent repair.

Sometimes, after removing unstable sections of concrete, a generally unsightly picture opens up, such as, for example, as shown in the photograph. However, it is quite repairable.

After removing defective areas and cutting cracks, a thorough cleaning is carried out. It is best to use a powerful construction vacuum cleaner- by other means it is extremely difficult to qualitatively clean the surface and the resulting cavities from small debris and dust.

Sometimes you have to resort to the complete dismantling of the entire screed to the floor slab. This can be caused by the extremely low quality of the coating, which is impractical to repair, but it is better to refill completely. Often, mold or fungus finds a “shelter” in a screed in damp rooms. Another option is when floors require additional insulation and sound insulation, and the height of the ceilings and dimensions doorways in the apartment will not allow to raise the level of coverage (taking into account the thermal insulation layer and finishing). The same measure is resorted to when it is planned to make a wooden floor on logs instead of thin coatings.

A difficult, but often simply necessary operation is the complete removal of the old screed

Of course, the process of completely dismantling the screed using a jacking tool is very tedious, noisy and dusty, but no other way has yet been invented. This requires some care not to damage concrete slab overlap. The screed is cut off in separate pieces, which are immediately raked to the side with a shovel and packed in bags for export. It is not recommended to use even small fragments as a material for filling a new solution, since they will not enhance, but, on the contrary, worsen the quality.

After removing the old screed, a thorough cleaning of the surface is carried out - as described above.

Base surface repair

What was the floor was not planned in the future to the flooring, the concrete base under it must be put in order. So, poorly sealed seams between floor slabs, cracks along the perimeter of walls, potholes or cavities, etc. can be exposed.

Such repairs are necessary even if it is planned to fill a new screed. The solution may not penetrate into these flaws, there will be air cavities that reduce the solidity of the coating and become the starting point for the destruction of the screed. This is all the more important and mandatory if the screed is to be poured onto a separating layer or onto a waterproofing film (floating screed).

All surface defects must be thoroughly cleaned, if necessary (for example, slab joints) cut, and then remove even the smallest crumbs and dust with a vacuum cleaner.

In the next step, the surface is carefully, at least twice, primed with a deep penetration composition, which is designed specifically for concrete.

Such treatment will significantly strengthen the surface, which is especially important when it is loose, increase the hydrophobic qualities, reduce the absorbency of concrete, and improve adhesion with repair compounds. They proceed to further work after the last applied layer of soil is completely absorbed and dried.

As a repair composition, you can use a conventional cement-sand mortar. However, it dries and gains the necessary strength for a long time, and it is better not to spare money for special repair compounds, also on a cement or epoxy basis.

Primed surface flaws are filled as tightly as possible repair staff compared with the general level of the floor. To do this, you can use a regular spatula. Some repair compounds are sold in plastic tubes, and it will be more convenient to apply them using a construction syringe or a special “gun”.

If the defect is large in volume, then in some cases it is possible to resort to filling it with mounting foam. After it dries, the excess is cut off, and then this area is brought to the general surface level with a repair staff.

Repair "patches" are given time to completely solidify, in accordance with their instructions, after which you can trim the surface with sandpaper wrapped on a bar. Then it is recommended to walk again over the entire surface with a primer. If an increased absorption of the composition is noted at the repair sites, then primed twice in these areas.

After the soil has dried, the surface can be considered ready for further work.

Leveling screed

If the old screed or wooden floor was removed and the floor slab opened, then most likely its level is very far from the horizontal. The house shrunk over time, and even during its construction many years ago, builders could not really care about the strictly adjusted level of floors. So, what kind of floor was not planned to be done further, it is recommended to strengthen the base and at the same time level it with a screed. The thickness of this poured layer must be at least 30 mm at its highest point.

First of all, it is necessary to determine the magnitude of the difference, that is, to identify the peak, highest and lowest points of the surface and “break through” the zero level line. A system of beacons will be set at this mark.

To fill the screed, you can use the usual cement-sand mortar, which is prepared right at the place of work. Usually they proceed from the proportion of three parts of sand to one of M-400 cement - this ratio gives an optimal surface in terms of strength and wear resistance, on which any of them can then be mounted. existing coatings gender.

Those novice builders who do not want to get involved in self-proportioning can be recommended to use ready-made building dry mixes. Their composition is already optimized for the screed, and it remains only to properly close it with water, in accordance with the attached instructions.

How many materials will be needed in one case or another? It all depends on the level of height difference in extreme points, the planned minimum thickness of the screed, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, the features of the solution.

Usually, on the packaging of dry building mixtures, their normalized consumption is indicated in kilograms per 1 square meter of the area to be poured with a layer thickness of 10 mm. Based on this, it is possible, by simple calculations, to determine the required amount of material.

To make things easier for readers, here is a calculator that allows you to quickly and accurately make such calculations:

Calculator for calculating the amount of dry mortar for screed

The floors in the apartment are often judged on the wealth and taste of the owner. In addition to the aesthetic function, they must have high performance and long service life. Therefore, it is important to know what to make the floors in the apartment from, how to choose the right screed for the base and flooring.

Types of floor coverings in rooms with high humidity

There is a large selection of floor coverings on the construction market. To make the right choice, you need to know what floor coverings are, their main characteristics and purpose.

One of the high-quality durable coatings is ceramic tile. It is most often placed in damp rooms or those subjected to significant mechanical stress, for example, in a bathroom, hallway, kitchen and other rooms. Its main characteristics:

• high wear resistance;
• easy care;
• a large selection of colors and patterns;
• does not lose properties at high humidity;
• resistant to temperature extremes;
• durability.

For damp rooms, it is better to choose corrugated or rough tiles, they should not be slippery.

Porcelain stoneware is similar to ceramic tiles in its composition, but it is used in its manufacture. special technology. This is very durable coating, which has increased frost resistance and wear resistance. The material is stronger than natural stone, it is not afraid even of hammer blows. Porcelain tile is produced with varying degrees surface smoothness, with imitation of marble, mosaic, granite, natural stone, etc.

Durability and beauty - laminate and parquet flooring

The parquet board has become a worthy substitute for parquet. A special manufacturing technology has increased the service life of the coating. The parquet is varnished after laying, the parquet board is varnished at the factory. The board is produced in the form of multilayer lamellas. The appearance of the board is given by the top layer, for which valuable species of wood (oak, beech, maple, etc.) are used.

Laminate flooring has become increasingly popular in recent years. It can also act as a substitute for parquet. It can be used by those for whom a wooden floor is not affordable. The range includes laminate, imitating marble, tiles and other materials. It is made of chipboard and covered with paper on which the drawing is applied. From above the boards are covered with a protective layer. Expensive coating options have increased protection against moisture, they can be used even in wet areas.

Cork, linoleum and carpet - alternative types of coating

Cork - expensive coverage but its characteristics make it one of the best options for flooring. It is an environmentally friendly natural material. It is an excellent sound and heat insulator, has an elastic and elastic surface. Cork is not suitable only for wet rooms. It is laid on a flat base, usually on plywood. Cork coverings are decorative, in the form of panels with an MDF base, used as a substrate for another covering.

Carpet is the perfect flooring for a bedroom. A large selection of colors makes it possible to create coziness in the room. It has good sound and heat insulation properties. It's nice to walk on it with bare feet in the morning. Carpet is produced both from natural and from artificial materials, with different pile lengths. The disadvantage of such a coating is the fragility and complexity of care. The pile is quickly crushed, overwritten. Dust accumulates in the pile surface, so the carpet requires frequent cleaning, preferably with a powerful vacuum cleaner. More practical and durable nylon carpet, but it comes at a high price.

A cheap and popular flooring is linoleum. Artificial linoleum has a reputation for being a short-lived material. This cover is made from natural materials(corks, resins, linseed oil, jute fabric, etc.), durable, resistant to moisture, mechanical stress. A dropped cup won't break on a floor like it does on ceramic tiles. Linoleum is easy to install and easy to maintain. The construction market has a large selection of colors and patterns. Especially in demand is a coating that imitates expensive materials: parquet, marble, ceramic tiles.

How to choose the right coverage

Floors should have not only a beautiful attractive appearance, but also high performance that meets the purpose of the room. Therefore, it is important to know what exactly to make the floors from, taking into account the purpose of each room in the apartment.

In bathrooms and bathrooms, the floor must be resistant to damp environments. At the same time, it must correspond to the general style of the room. Requirements for coating in the kitchen are almost the same as for the bathroom. In addition to being resistant to moisture, floors must be wear-resistant and well tolerated. mechanical influences.

Liquids are often spilled in the kitchen, so floors must be well washed, resistant to chemicals, and have anti-slip properties. Floors in the hallway should have high resilience.

On balconies and loggias, the floor covering must withstand temperature fluctuations over a wide range. In addition, it experiences significant mechanical stress and must be sufficiently wear-resistant and durable. It is better to choose stone or ceramic options for these rooms.

In living rooms, the floor should be beautiful, durable and environmentally friendly, especially in the nursery. The floors should be in harmony with the furniture, wallpaper, that is, correspond to the style of the room. Wooden floors and parquet make the room most comfortable. These are expensive materials, but they can be perfectly replaced with a laminate that imitates various types of wood, or a parquet board. good option for living rooms is carpet.

The basis of the floor is the key to its durability

Almost all floor coverings require a perfectly level base, so you need to level the floor surface before installing them. The question arises, which screed is better to do in the apartment? When choosing, you need to consider in which rooms the screed will be performed. Depending on the installation location, it can perform the following functions:

• levels the surface and makes the base more durable;
• serves as a heat, sound and waterproofing layer;
• hides communications;
• with a screed, you can make the necessary slope in the bathroom or bathroom to drain water.

There are several types of screeds, from which you need to choose, taking into account the purpose of the room and the type of flooring:

• Concrete. It is rarely used in an apartment and takes a lot of time. It is done wet.
• Semi-dry. The screed uses less water and dries faster than concrete. The use of a small amount of water makes the screed less durable.
• Dry. It is carried out using dry mixes. Often used to level the base in the apartment.
• Combined. This is best way for leveling surfaces with significant irregularities. If you use only a cement screed, then it will be too heavy, as you have to make a thick layer.
• . They are poured with a layer of 3 cm. This allows you to reduce the weight of the base.

When choosing a screed for the floor, you need to consider the following points:

1. 1. The time for which the repair must be completed. It will take at least two weeks for a traditional concrete screed.
2. 2. When installing a warm floor, it is better to use a screed that can be dismantled so that there is access to heating elements. In addition, it must be resistant to temperature extremes.
3. 3. Type of interfloor overlap. With large gaps between the slabs, a wet screed can leak between the slabs and create problems with neighbors living on the floor below.
4. 4. Cost.

Making a self-levelling screed

Self-leveling screed is used if you need to get a perfect flat surface gender. The process itself consists of the following steps:

1. 1. First you need to prepare the floor surface by cleaning it of debris, dirt and dust.
2. 2. Next, you need to prime the floor surface.
3. 3. The solution is prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions. To stir the solution, you can use a construction mixer or a drill with a special nozzle on.
4. 4. The mixture should be saturated with oxygen, so it is allowed to stand for 5-7 minutes.
5. 5. Pour the mixture along the wall, starting from the corner that is farthest from the door.
6. 6. The mixture is leveled with a needle roller and a metal brush.
7. 7. Completely the floor dries up within 3-5 days. To obtain a high-quality screed, it must be protected from drafts, direct sunlight, sudden changes in temperature and moisture ingress.

If the manufacturing technology is observed, a hard and durable surface will be obtained, almost not absorbing moisture.

In order for the floors to please with their beautiful appearance for a long time, you need to choose the right floor covering, make a solid, even base under it and properly care for them.

All work can be done independently, but if there is no experience and desire, it is better to trust professionals who will perform all the work quickly and efficiently.

When repairing an apartment, very little attention is paid to the floors, the main thing is that they are even, solid and durable. However, this element of the home has become more in demand in design. Recently, one can meet not only classic options finishes, but also quite original. So, what floors are better to do in an apartment?

Parquet is still in vogue. However, now it is no longer the same as it was before - in the form of a laid Christmas tree. Now it is made in the form of special shields, which are covered with precious woods. Unique piece parquet is the most expensive, but it can be used to make a real work of art on the floor. For such parquet, beech, maple, ash, oak, as well as exotic woods are usually used.

When deciding which flooring is best done in an apartment, one can come to the conclusion that parquet is not only very an expensive option, but also capricious in terms of care. Many opt for a parquet board. It is made in such a way that it allows you to update itself several times, which is an important factor. It can be used to cover all rooms, even loggias. Laying is carried out on a flat floor using a floating method, that is, without using glue. Boards have lock connections. In terms of care, it is less capricious than parquet, while it is also cheaper.

If you decide what kind of floors to make in the apartment, then you should consider some other options. For example, laminate. It perfectly conveys the texture and color of various types of wood, can imitate stone, leather, ceramic tiles. The most popular are those that imitate exotic dark wood or oak. Beyond natural natural colors, you can find samples of green, orange and blue shades.

Speaking about what kind of floors it is better to make in an apartment, it is worth saying that wicker carpets - mats have become more and more popular lately. They are made from natural fibers of cane, flax, sisal, hemp and jute. These coatings differ in texture, size and color. Their advantages are hypoallergenic, antistatic, massage effect, not the ability to attract dust. Such coatings do not tolerate moisture and require careful handling. Mats look very good in minimalist interiors.

If we talk about what kind of floors it is better to make in an apartment so that it is easy to walk on them barefoot, then there is an answer - from a cork. Such a coating is light, elastic, environmentally friendly, it does not rot, and feet do not slip on it. Cork dies that are varnished may have various design and color: be light, dark, or with some kind of pattern.

If you decide to make the floor in new apartment, it is worth mentioning the most unusual coating - glass. No one says that the entire floor should be glass, a few small rectangular windows are quite enough. They can be filled with pebbles, colored glass, sand, shells. You can make a transparent podium or several. Tempered glass is used for the floor.

It turns out that in the apartment you can make different floors.