Do-it-yourself parquet laying: step-by-step instructions for self-laying parquet. How to competently make the installation of a parquet board Do-it-yourself parquet installation

Installation of flooring is a very responsible process and not always easy, especially when it comes to parquet board. Proper laying of parquet has many nuances, and an inexperienced person may seem an impossible task. But if you study the instructions in detail and correctly choose the material, do-it-yourself parquet board installation will turn out no worse than that of specialists.

The parquet board is a popular and demanded material, so it is produced by many enterprises. Not all of them can boast of the high quality of their product, which means that you should choose very carefully.

A standard parquet board consists of three layers:

• the front layer is made of expensive wood, varnished or impregnated with special oil. The thickness of the front cover is from 1 to 6 mm;
• for the middle layer, short spruce and pine slats are used, and sometimes moisture-resistant plywood. All elements of the castle system are also located here;
• the third layer is 2 mm thick spruce veneer.

: length 2-2.5 m, width up to 20 cm, thickness from 7 to 26 mm.

For rooms with a small load on the floor, a board with a thickness of 10 mm or more is suitable. For the living room, it is better to choose a coating with a thickness of 13-15 mm, which is more resistant to mechanical stress. If the floor will be laid on logs, and not on a concrete screed, you should choose a parquet board of maximum thickness.

Another criterion for selection is the number of lamellas of the upper layer. If the front layer consists of a single piece of wood, it is called single-strip. If the flooring consists of two or three tightly fitted parallel lamellas, it is already a multi-strip parquet board. Single-strip boards visually expand the room, look great in classic interiors. There are options for such a coating with chamfers at the corners, which gives the impression massive board from expensive wood.

by the most traditional option a three-strip board with a pattern under natural parquet is considered. Each of the three lamellas is divided into several segments that differ in tone. The segments can be arranged in the form of a wickerwork, parquet herringbone or in parallel, in the form of a deck pattern. This coating is very decorative, looks great in both small and spacious rooms.

It is necessary to lay the parquet board on a solid, even and clean base. Any defects, cracks, delamination of the base lead to deformation of the boards and reduce their strength. When installing this coating, a difference in height of only 1-3 mm per square meter. So, to begin with, the base is cleaned of debris and dust, its integrity is checked. Deep cracks should be sealed with cement mortar, small ones are simply overwritten. With the help of the rule, the floor plane is checked, if necessary, a screed is poured.

Lay on a dry base polyethylene film or a special waterproofing membrane. Its edges should go on the walls by about 5 cm.

A layer of thermal insulation should be laid on the film; most often, polyethylene foam in rolls is used for these purposes. The insulation is cut into pieces along the length of the floor, tightly laid against the walls, glued together with adhesive tape. Instead of polyethylene, polystyrene foam boards and sheet cork are also used. The insulation layer has good cushioning, does not allow cement dust to seep in, and evens out minor defects in the base.

During the installation process you will need:

There are two installation methods: floating and adhesive.

The first option is the fastest and most convenient. In this case, the boards can be fastened with locks or glued together with ends. lock system allows you to qualitatively lay the coating in the shortest possible time, besides, it greatly facilitates the replacement of damaged areas.

Step 1. Mounting the first row

First, measure the width of the room and calculate the number of rows of panels. It is very important to know the width of the last row: if it is less than 4 cm, all the boards of the first row should be cut to width. Start work from the corner of the long wall from left to right. The board is deployed with a lock to the wall and placed on the floor.

Several mounting wedges are inserted between the wall surface and the edge of the board to provide a gap of 6-7 mm. The end of the next board is closely attached to the first and the grooves are connected. So they mount the entire first row, cutting the last board to the size of the room and not forgetting about the gap between the wall and the coating.

Step 2. Laying subsequent rows

For high-quality adhesion, the rows must be shifted parallel to each other by at least 30 cm. The first panel of the second row is cut in half and laid away from the wall. To connect with the first row, the board is taken with both hands, applied at an angle to the edge of the fixed panel, leveled and the lock is snapped into place with pressure. The remaining panels are mounted in the same way. To speed up this process, use a rubber or wooden mallet, carefully knocking the boards along the joint line.

Step 3. Cutting the cover under the door frame

When installing the coating near the doorway, a piece of board is taken and applied to the bottom edge of the box. They cut out part of the rack so that the board fits snugly under the box, and sawdust and dust are immediately removed. A thin line of the substrate is cut along the threshold, applied aluminum profile with holes for fastening, marking them on the floor with a pencil.

Drill holes for the dowels and fix the profile. Next, cut the parquet board, insert it under the door frame, lock the locks. At the end, a metal threshold is mounted at the opening, screwing it to the profile and closing the ends of the boards.

Step 4. The final stage of installation

When laying a parquet board around communication pipes, a paper template is used: a template is applied to the panel, the boundaries of the hole are marked with a pencil, and the desired fragment is cut out with a jigsaw. It is necessary to leave at least 1 cm between the last row and the wall of the room, otherwise floor deformations are possible. When all the boards are laid, the wedges are removed, the skirting boards are mounted, the floor surface is wiped with a clean cloth.

Adhesive installation method

With the adhesive installation method, the parquet board is laid directly on the concrete screed. To flooring served for a long time, the base is well prepared: carefully leveled, cleaned of dust, covered dense layer synthetic primers.

The fastening of each panel should take no more than 10 minutes, so that the glue does not have time to dry. Instead of a sealant, you can use cork chips - it easily penetrates into the seams, insulates heat well, and does not let cement dust through.

Installation of parquet boards on underfloor heating and logs

The parquet board is very demanding on temperature regime and does not tolerate overheating. The maximum allowable value is 26 ° C above zero, and even then not for every type of wood. If the material is suitable for laying on a warm floor, this must be indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer. If there is no such information, it is not worth the risk, because the replacement of cracked floors will be very expensive. The parquet board is mounted directly on the underfloor heating system in a floating way.

It is not recommended to lay such a coating on a water-heated floor, since if pipes break and burst, the parquet board will be severely damaged. It is best if an electric or infrared warm floor is installed - their design is more reliable.

Many people prefer to lay the flooring on the logs. In this case, you will need sheets of waterproof plywood and self-tapping screws for its fastening. Logs must be strong and even, located in the same horizontal plane. The space between the lags is covered with a waterproofing film, filled with insulation, and then plywood sheets pre-treated with an antiseptic composition are stuffed on top.

Using adhesive method installation boards are glued directly onto plywood, but if a floating method is used, it is recommended to lay on plywood cork backing. The laying process takes place according to the technology described above. In some cases, the parquet board is mounted directly on the logs. In this case, the distance between the lags is made no more than 60 cm, and the maximum thickness of the parquet board is chosen.

Video - Do-it-yourself parquet board

It involves several important rules, as well as all the nuances of the phased work. Only then will the flooring be even and beautiful, which means it will last more than one year, but several times longer.

Before starting work

To start and complete all the work correctly, you need:

1. make sure you have everything necessary tools and accessories, special equipment for grinding, etc. If at home you have only the simplest set, then additional elements you can always rent;
2. determine the design of the floor, as well as the direction of laying. Here you can choose how classic version, and more non-standard. The first does not require special skills, and in the case of the second, you need to consult a specialist;
3. calculate required amount material with a margin (depending on the type of installation) and purchase it;
4. mount an intermediate layer of moisture-resistant plywood;
5. complete everything necessary work after the installation of the boards (puttying, scraping and varnishing).

Base for parquet

Screed. As the base, logs, wooden floors or cement-sand screeds. Last option The most common. Even if the initial draft floor is wooden, they try to replace it with a screed, because it guarantees evenness and strength of the coating.

In case of any irregularities, care must be taken to quickly eliminate them by leveling with additional grinding. How else can you level the screed? If we are talking about height differences up to 10-20 mm, then here you can use not only a grinder, but also a self-leveling mixture on a special cement base.

In the case when the height differences are higher than 20 mm, it is necessary to make several repeated fillings in order to achieve an acceptable result.

As a rule, in the absence of any communications in the screed, its minimum thickness should be 40 mm. How more thickness, those will take longer to dry the layer until the required strength is achieved. In general, the duration of such a period can reach from 7 days per 10 mm.

Waterproofing. After the screed has dried completely, you can take care of the waterproofing layer. It is not mandatory, but many experts guarantee that its use will be advantageous. In this case, one of three types of film is often used:

• polyethylene;
• foil;
• reinforced polypropylene.

This option serves reliable protection from water vapor, which can penetrate into the base from the room, which is characterized by elevated level humidity (pool or kitchen).

Also, instead of a film, a two-component polyurethane primer can be used. This option is rarely used because it is more expensive.

Plywood. by the most the best foundation for do-it-yourself parquet installation, plywood with a thickness of 12 to 15 mm is considered. It is moisture-resistant sheets that will help to connect parquet and concrete, guaranteeing maximum evenness of the entire surface.

Each sheet of plywood is cut into four equal parts and laid on a special glue. Glue is also applied to the sheets themselves with a spatula. The layer should be very thin and evenly distributed. For greater reliability, all elements are fastened with dowels or self-tapping screws.

After that, the coating is polished to a state of perfect smoothness. Remember, the thicker the parquet boards, the thicker the plywood sheets should be. Such an intermediate layer is able to increase the elasticity of the entire flooring several times.

After fixing, you need to wait a while, allowing the glue to dry and the sheets to fix. As a rule, it takes 4 to 7 days. Of course, you can save on installation costs by replacing plywood with chipboard, but chipboard is more susceptible to moisture, which means the entire floor will not be as reliable. Think again, it is worth saving, knowing in advance about far from best results.

Mounting technology

So, for installation, you can choose one of two ways:

1. floating;
2. glueless.

In the first variant, the connection of the boards occurs according to the groove-thorn system. In this case, a special parquet adhesive is used, and additional mount planks to the floor are not expected. Experts call this method the most technologically advanced. But, it also has its drawbacks: the floating method is not an option indoors large sizes and where needed high rigidity grounds.

In the second version, the boards are produced with grooves and ridges, i.e. with locks. With their help, all elements are attached to each other. Such a connection remains strong even after many years.

Now that you are familiar with the main features of the floor device, let's begin installation. Leave an expansion gap between finishing material and walls or any other obstacles. A distance of 10-15 mm will guarantee that, even when the board expands under the influence of moisture or temperature, the floor will not warp.

Keep in mind that there are individual manufacturers who initially varnish their products. But, if you buy raw elements, then after laying them, they must be treated with putty, grinder and only then varnish. Choose products and masses that are as compatible as possible with parquet. As a rule, such nuances are indicated in the instructions.

One layer of varnish is not enough. Three coats are applied for better protection. The difference between applications is up to 4 hours. During this time, the previous layer has time to dry.

If you are going to install new material on the underfloor heating system, then:

1. surface temperature should not exceed +27°С;
2. the thickness of the entire coating should not exceed 13-15 mm.

After the last stage of parquet processing, it is impossible to cover the floor with cardboard or film and carry out other Finishing work. Then the floor will pick up moisture and begin to deform even before you begin to fully use it.

Use our tips to make your home perfect.

No matter how the developers of innovative flooring try to improve the material, the eye of the intelligent owner of residential property invariably turns to the parquet and massive classics. Despite the enormous number of advanced achievements in this field, the question of how competent styling handmade parquet After all, home craftsmen who are trying to lay an amazing patterned floor from wooden planks have not yet died out and are unlikely to.

The main secrets of laying parquet

Parquet flooring is a complex structure consisting of one or more underlying layers and top coat, typed from wooden dies. Dies are also called planks, parquets or rivets. Represented wooden elements predominantly rectangular in plan, front and profile. Along the perimeter, the plates are equipped with grooves and ridges for fastening.

The visible component of the parquet floor

The width of the staves is usually a multiple of the length, which makes it easy to create a variety of geometric ornaments. Parquet width standards are 5-7.5 cm, lengths are 21-49 cm according to GOST, numbered 862.1-85. The values ​​​​of the thickness indicated in the data sheets start from 14 mm and end at 22 mm.

Note. Optimum thickness parquet floor for the arrangement of residential premises is considered 15-18 mm. For thinner strips, the working layer is quickly erased, especially if scraping is often carried out. Thick parquets are not elastic.

The material for parquet flooring can be supplied not only in the form of rectangular planks. On sale there are ready-made shields with parquet floor fragments assembled on a coniferous base and modules fastened from above according to the principle ceramic mosaic cardboard or paper.

Base hidden from view

Number and specifications underlying elements depend on the type and condition draft foundation, which most often appear as:

• concrete floors: prefabricated or monolithic floors with or without a screed;
• wooden beams with lags installed for laying flooring;
• plank floor, the floorboards of which, after repair and polishing, serve as a rough base.

According to the instructions of SNiP number 3.04.01-87, it is allowed to lay riveting or finished parquet boards on a prepared base. Within 2 meters of the completed preparation, height deviations of no more than 2 mm can be recorded. Those. when installing a 2-meter rail on the subfloor in an arbitrary vector direction max, the clearance between this control device and the surface can be only 2 mm, preferably less. The slope is acceptable, but its size is limited by the same reference book: max 0.2%, not exceeding 5 cm.

The primary goal of an independent parquet floorer is to form a rough base that meets technical requirements. The number and type of upcoming operations determines the material from which the rough base is made and the degree of wear.

Tasks of using moisture resistant plywood

The second stage, the result of which is to be admired and brag about, is the piece-by-piece laying of the elements on the prepared base. top layer training according to the vast majority technological schemes is a moisture-resistant plywood underlay, because it:

• serves as a reliable module for fixing small-caliber parquet floor rivets;
• compensates for the difference in thermal expansion of the concrete base and the wood coating;
• eliminates suction from the ceiling and from the subfloor of moisture that can render expensive natural material unusable;
• performs the function of a cutting element in the case of a floating floor device;
• plays the role of a leveling layer.

If it is possible or necessary to reduce the height of the ceilings by 5 cm or more, you can simply purchase sets of adjustable floors with brand Knauf and prepare both concrete and wood in one day. The products of the same manufacturer should be used if expanded clay as a heater is to be carried out over a cold basement.

So, we found out that plywood should be used. There are plenty of ways to level it. Let's forget for a while about the existence of factory kits for dry screed and analyze budget options training, the implementation of which will require inexpensive building materials and own forces.

Three preparation options

The quality of the leveling carried out before the installation of the parquet floor affects the number of finishing operations and the duration of the coating. Those who wish to lay the parquet securely and aesthetically with their own hands should be aware that due to defects in the base:

• loosen, crack and after a very short period of time the ridges of the parquet will break;
• the floor will creak unmercifully;
• you will have to carry out additional grinding, thinning the working layer of the material. As a result, the number of scraping-grindings required for the subsequent restoration of the parquet floor is reduced.

In order to avoid such unsightly consequences, let's consider how the three types of bases for parquet are leveled.

Conditions and schemes for pouring the screed

The screed is poured mainly to eliminate defects in concrete floors:

• Level differences and defects within 1-2 cm are removed by grinding the concrete floor, followed by pouring either cement-sand or polymer leveling mortar. Before the screed device, the base is primed twice with a penetrating compound. A two-component polyurethane primer will stabilize and strengthen the top layers of the subfloor and will perform the function of waterproofing.
• For flaws greater than 2 cm, it will be necessary to refill the leveling layer with the laying of polyethylene as a waterproofing and a cut-off layer. From polyethylene strips, you need to build a kind of pallet with 10 cm sides. Because layer thickness is usually 3-4 cm, used for leveling mainly sandy cement mixtures with reinforcement. It is more economical and convenient to reinforce with polypropylene fiber, but it is also possible with a mesh.

The layer of cement-sand leveling under the parquet should harden for at least 4 weeks. According to rounded folk calculations, 1 week is allotted for curing 1 cm of the screed. At the end of the specified period, laying should also not be in a hurry if the fastening of the dies is planned to be carried out directly to the leveling layer. You need to wait more than 5-6, even better 7 weeks, until moisture stops escaping from the screed.

Attention. If it is planned to glue the parquet directly to the primed screed, cement mixtures with M150-300 grades must be used to fill it. They differ high strength for compression. Glue for parquet flooring will need elastic.

It is not necessary to wait for complete curing if moisture-resistant plywood is laid on top of the fill. 28 days are enough, and it can be fixed with screws or dowel-nails to a leveled floor. For this, plywood sheets are cut into 4 parts and laid with a run-up according to the principle brickwork. Cut to minimize expansion and eliminate undulations. Between the quartered segments leave gaps of 2-3 mm for linear compression-expansion. The hats of the hardware are sunk 3-5 mm into the plywood so as not to damage the grinding machine disc later.

Attention. If, in addition to self-tapping screws, glue is also used to fix plywood sheets to the screed, it is recommended to purchase it with the same brand and properties as the primer in order to optimize adhesion.

When using glue, the process of laying parquet on a plywood substrate will need to be postponed. You will have to wait for the curing period specified by the manufacturer of the binder. After that, the plywood preparation is sanded along the seams in order to remove the height differences of adjacent sheets, as well as dirt and factory flaws.

Between the walls and the plywood layer around the perimeter, you need to leave a technological gap of 0.9 - 1.2 cm. It is formed using spacer wedges. Spacers are not removed until the parquet flooring is completely laid. Only upon completion of laying they need to be pulled out, the gap created by the wedges should be filled mounting foam so that moisture does not get on the side faces in the future. From above, the foamed seam is closed with a plinth.

Attention. The plinth is attached only to the walls, its slats do not fit tightly with the parquet. There must be at least 1 mm between the parquet flooring and the plinth.

Lags as a way of leveling

It is also a dry screed method, which allows not to stretch the floor construction process for many months due to long technological breaks. For the construction, a beam with sides of 4 and 5 cm is used. Work is carried out according to the following algorithm:

• Lags are installed after 30 cm, fastened with screws or corners to a concrete or wooden draft base. Between the ends of the beam and the walls, you need to leave a traditional gap for linear expansion.
• It is leveled in a horizontal plane by adding sand, if the rough base is made of concrete, by lining wedges, roofing felt or parchment inserts, if the base is made of wood. The excess is cut off with a planer.
• In plywood cut into 4 equal parts, 9 holes are baited in advance, through which they are fastened to the logs with self-tapping screws. The principle of brick laying is observed by default, as is the deformation indent around the perimeter. No cross connections are allowed.
• By analogy, a second layer of plywood substrate is constructed. Only quartered sheets are stacked with an offset so that the seams of the first row do not coincide with the seams of the second. The first layer of plywood is treated with a primer, then with glue. Then self-tapping screws are twisted, the size of which depends on the total thickness of the plywood layer.
• After the glue dries, sanding is performed.

The plywood substrate is laid on the logs in two layers, the total height of which should be approximately equal to 30 mm. The thickness of the plywood laid on the screed is determined by the thickness of the parquet. Usually it is less than the equivalent parquet size by 5 mm.

Plank floor preparation

It consists in the repair and grinding of floorboards, if their thickness after processing with a grinding unit does not become less than 30 mm. Otherwise, the boards will have to be dismantled and new material laid on top of which parquet planks will be attached.

If the board simply replaces the first layer of plywood, its thickness in total with the thickness of the substrate may not exceed 3 cm. And it can be laid with centimeter gaps to ensure ventilation and temperature movement.

Note. primer for glue wooden floors it is desirable to choose with antistatic properties.

Technological procedure for laying parquet

Parquet installers have at their disposal a lot of options for laying out slabs: from the simplest “deck” with a “herringbone” pattern to complex artistic drawings with mosaic modules and borders. In anticipation of the work, a layout plan is drawn up, which can be directed along any of the walls or at a 45º angle. Corner laying is advised to start from the central row. The same should be done if you do not get whole rows of the selected pattern.

To orient the first row, they construct something like a mooring cord. Two nails are driven into plywood from opposite sides of the row planned for laying, and a fishing line is pulled over them.

It is not forbidden to use one-component glue, but it is better to spend money and buy a two-component one. It will definitely not emit water harmful to the parquet.

In principle, the technology of laying parquet is quite simple, it consists in the sequential implementation of the following steps:

• the prepared surface is carefully covered with soil;
• with a spatula-comb, glue is applied to a small area, because. the binder dries extremely quickly;
• a pre-assembled fragment of two or three dies is laid on the glue, taking into account the landmark-mooring. Parquets are glued with some effort. Excess glue squeezed out from under the parquet should be removed immediately;
• you can fasten each installed bar with two or three nails or studs through a comb. Hammer the hardware at an angle of 45º. Nail heads should be sunk into the comb with a parquet nailer. Fastening parquet can be done through three elements;
• completely laid parquet is left for the period of curing of the glue;
• then they grind in two or more steps, changing the sanding paper at each stage to an analog with smaller grain sizes. Grind until the defects that appeared during operation are cut off;
• open with a stain, if there is a desire to change the color of the floor, then varnish in 3-9 layers.

There are many wisdoms in the technology of building a parquet floor. However, there is nothing extremely complicated. Of course, the parquet laid for the first time is unlikely to look like the floors in Versailles, but it's worth a try. Will it come out better?

One of the most attractive types of flooring is parquet. It allows you to create in the house amazing cozy atmosphere, warm enough and with it you can create an original pattern on the floor. That is why many during the repair decide to opt for it. But not everyone knows how to lay parquet. Consider how this procedure takes place, what are the subtleties of installing such a coating.

Parquet - the coating is not only beautiful, but also durable, environmentally friendly. It is made from natural wood, which is why its cost is quite high. However, the material allows you to keep warm in the house, is hypoallergenic, has a service life of 25 years or more, and provides excellent sound insulation.

On a note! The main disadvantage of the material is the exactingness of care. He does not like water, and therefore it is not recommended to wash him often. Also, periodically the coating has to be rubbed with special compounds so that it shines and looks like new.

Parquet can be different kind, and choose the most suitable option everyone can do it for themselves. The material is piece, mosaic, shield, massive, palace. There is also a separate type of parquet called. All types of material differ in size, ways of laying and working with them. Some are easier to put, some are more difficult, but in any case, the material does not lose its main advantages listed above.

Ways of laying parquet

The most common types of parquet are traditional piece, panel, and parquet boards. Depending on the type of material and type of base, the best option styling. Three main ones can be distinguished.

Table. The main options for laying the coating.

The most popular method of installing parquet flooring is adhesive. It is distinguished by reliability, which attracts masters. The choice of adhesive will depend on which parquet is being laid. There are the following main types of adhesive compositions.

Important! It is important to work with polyurethane-based glue very carefully. If such a composition falls on front side material, it may damage the finish.

Glue is always applied with a special spatula with teeth. It is due to them that it is possible to apply the composition with a layer of the desired thickness and evenly. Sometimes, for additional fixation, parquet staples can be used, which are hammered at an angle of 45 degrees to the floor surface using an air gun.

Ordinary piece parquet can be laid in various patterns.

How to lay parquet correctly? Important Aspects

Laying parquet has certain nuances - although the process is simple, it still requires responsible and right approach. If you do not comply with special requirements, then the base will quickly collapse or lose its appearance.

1. The air temperature in the room where the work is carried out should be within + 18-23 degrees.
2. Humidity should be no more than 45-60%.
3. Parquet must be kept in the room where it will be installed for 7-10 days before starting work. This will allow the material to "get used" to future operating conditions.
4. There should be nothing superfluous in the room during work.
5. The base for laying parquet must be carefully prepared - leveled and cleaned of debris.
6. It is not necessary to mount parquet on an old, swollen and damaged coating.

Subject to all installation conditions, as well as proper care behind the parquet, the coating can serve without complaints for 60-80 years.

Base for parquet

Particular attention during preparation for the installation of parquet should be given to the rough base. It should be perfectly even and clean, it should not have roughness and bumps, otherwise the parquet will not lay down as required, and will last very little time. To begin with, the old floor covering, if any, is removed. Logs and subfloors are important to inspect for damage, rot. If they are unsuitable for laying parquet, they will have to be removed and replaced with new ones. In this case, the lags can be closed as wooden planks, and immediately with plywood. In general, a cake of this floor has several layers - this is directly concrete floor, logs, moisture-resistant plywood, adhesive composition and the parquet itself.

Logs should have a thickness of 5-10 cm, they are covered before installation protective compounds, preventing decay and destruction of the tree. Boards or sheets of plywood are already attached to them. The space between the lags is easiest to fill with some kind of insulation - it will make the floors warmer, which is especially true for those rooms that are located above basement. For installation of the subfloor, do not use plywood thinner than 12 mm. During installation, it should be borne in mind that between its individual sheets there should be small gaps, about 1 mm wide. Slightly larger in width - about 1.5 mm - compensation slots are left along the walls.

Do not forget about waterproofing. It will protect both the log and the rough base, as well as the parquet itself from excess moisture, which adversely affects the materials from which they are made. The easiest way is to use plastic wrap.

Parquet can be laid not only on plywood, but also on. But it must be perfectly smooth and reliable. If necessary, self-leveling compounds will help to level it. Also, such a base must be necessarily primed so that adhesion is maximum. Then the adhesive composition will stick to it best.

On a note! Can be aligned concrete base and sheets of plywood. Fastening is made on dowels.

If a new one was filled concrete screed, then further work can be made only after its complete drying. The drying time of the screed is about 28 days. In this case, it is impossible to speed up the process using heating devices - in this case, the screed may begin to collapse. Parquet installation should not be carried out on a damp base. It is quite simple to check this indicator in relation to the screed - a piece of polyethylene measuring 1x1 m is placed on it, left for a day. Then the film is lifted, its condition is assessed from the inside. If it is dry, then it is possible to lay parquet, if condensation has accumulated on it, then the subfloor needs to be dried.

It is recommended to cover the concrete floor with an underlay before laying the parquet, if it is a question of laying the floor with a floating method, and also with glue. It will provide the most comfortable operation of the floors, as it smooths out minor irregularities in the base, increases thermal insulation performance, helps to distribute the load on the parquet correctly and additionally protects it from moisture.

Tools and materials

Hardwood flooring jobs may require certain tools and a range of materials. The list is indicative, as the need to use some of them will depend on the method by which the parquet is laid. May be useful:

• jigsaw or saw;
• grinders;
• drill, dowels and screws;
• a hammer;
• measuring instruments and pencil;
• notched spatula;
• brushes and primer;
• moisture insulating material;
• adhesive composition;
• nails, parquet staples;

It is necessary to pay special attention to the acquisition of the parquet itself - the service life will directly depend on its quality. Do not buy low quality material, cheap, damaged. Also, the parquet must be chosen in such a color that it fits the general style of the room where the renovation is being carried out.

On a note! Oak parquet is the most durable and reliable, as well as durable, but it is quite expensive. Maple, beech material is cheaper, but not much inferior in quality to oak.

The process of laying parquet

Laying process parquet flooring not as complicated as it seems - it just needs to be done carefully and accurately, and then everything will work out. You should not choose a complex pattern if the master is not confident in his abilities - it is better to lay the parquet with the most conventional methods- for example, linear. But you can try to bring to life other variants of patterns or buy a panel parquet.

Step 1. The surface of the rough base, which in this case is a concrete screed, is carefully polished - it is required to level it to perfect condition. The easiest and fastest way to do this is with a grinder.

Step 2 The resulting dust and other debris is collected with a vacuum cleaner. Corners and places near the walls are especially carefully processed.

Step 3 A layer of epoxy primer is applied to the screed. Work is easiest to do with a roller on a long handle. The primer is applied so that there are no unsmeared areas on the floor.

Step 4 An insulating substrate is placed on the base. It is glued to the adhesive, which is applied to the prepared base with a notched trowel.

Step 5 The sheets of the substrate are laid joint to joint, smoothed by hand.

Step 6 The substrate is then rolled with a heavy roller. This procedure will ensure maximum reliable connection with concrete screed.

Step 7 After that, the laying of the mosaic parquet begins. The first rows of elements are placed at a small distance from the walls - a few millimeters are enough. These will be compensation gaps, which will subsequently be closed with a plinth. Parquet adhesive is applied to the substrate using a notched trowel. It is applied small areas sufficient for gluing several elements.

Step 8 The parquet elements are laid on the adhesive layer at the joint with the previously laid ones.

Step 9 Each element of the parquet is carefully pressed against the base.

Step 10 When the parquet is laid and the adhesive layer has dried well, the surface of the coating is polished with a special grinder. Along the walls, the material is processed with an angle grinder.

Step 11 Mosaic parquet blocks are puttied. Using a wide spatula, apply to the surface of the material special compound and evenly distributed over the base.

Step 12 After drying of this layer, the surface is polished with a surface grinder for parquet.

Step 14 The final stage is polishing the parquet.

Video - Laying strip parquet

This is how parquet floors are laid. If everything is done in accordance with the requirements presented above, then anyone can cope with the task. However, in order for the parquet to look beautiful for as long as possible, it is important to properly care for it.

Parquet is not only a prestigious flooring made of natural wood, but also an aesthetically pleasing decorative element that can fit in and transform any type of property. It will look especially elegant in a classic version. Able to withstand heavy loads, does not evaporate harmful substances, fills the room with a pleasant supply of forest, and also has a good effect on human health and mood.

Professional installation of parquet in Moscow

The company "AK Repair" provides services professional installation parquet at a competitive price. The great experience of the masters allows us to take on the implementation of the most daring design ideas. We guarantee timely technically competent laying of the material, we work only with a time-tested finish.

Thanks to a long stay in the Moscow construction market, we managed to reject unscrupulous suppliers of construction, finishing material, enter into agreements with large regional shops that provide huge discounts on the entire range of products, so our customers can be sure that when ordering parquet installation at AK Remont, you can not only save on material, but also get a coating that can last for decades.

Services

• Laying screed under the selected type of finish;
• Leveling the floor with plywood;
• Installation of the substrate, vapor and waterproofing layer;
• installation block parquet;
• Laying parquet boards diagonally;
• Installation of parquet perpendicular to the wall;

Types of parquet boards

Before ordering installation, you need to decide what type of coating you want to see at the end of the work.

According to the design of the rails can be divided:

• Single layer;
• Double layer.

By the number of plates:

• Single layer;
• Double layer;
• Three-layer;
• Multilayer planks.

According to the method of installation can be divided:

• Piece;
• Modular;
• Art.

What is the price of parquet installation

The cost of laying piece dies depends on many factors, the observance of which determines the quality of the future coating. If you order turnkey work, the price for the entire scope of work will be significantly reduced.

Screed preparation

Laying work

Consider the factors affecting the cost:

• The quality of the already laid screed (whether dismantling or leveling is required).
• Design features of the room (the presence of protrusions, corners, bevels).
• Desired assembly scheme than easier drawing, the lower the installation cost.
• The quality of the material (whether additional sealing of the joints is required).
• Installation method.

To find out the final cost of laying parquet and the price per m2 in your particular case, you need to contact a company representative and leave a request for free departure an appraiser-measuring officer who will make a visual analysis of the existing flooring, specify what type of block parquet laying you want to see and on what kind of bedding.