Why do pachistachis curl leaves. Pachistachis care. Creating a favorable environment

Ornamental plant pachistachis pleases with unusual flowering and unpretentious care. True, sometimes in its cultivation flower growers encounter such a problem as leaf curling. Let's see why pachistachis leaves curl and how to return the plant to a beautiful view.

Pachistachis leaves curl - causes

The main reason why pachistachis curls leaves is non-compliance correct mode glaze. decorative flower- quite moisture-loving plant. Lack of watering and spraying, especially in summer time, leads to the folding of the leaves, because this is how the plant tries to reduce the area of ​​​​evaporation. The same reaction occurs if the flower pot is placed in a cold room or where there are drafts. In addition, pachistachis leaves turn yellow and curl with a lack of light and dry air.

Also, the folding of the leaves is the first sign that a spider mite has attacked the flower.

Pachistachis leaves curl - what to do?

First of all, when folding the leaves of a flower, make a thorough inspection for the presence of pests. If they are found, pachistachis is recommended to be treated with an insecticide or soapy water.

With a lack of moisture, it is recommended to carry out abundant watering, as well as spray the plant twice a day. If pachistachis curl up, turn yellow and fall off the leaves due to the fact that he lacks sunlight, the flower pot should be rearranged on the east or west windowsill.

If changes in foliage occur due to drafts and low temperatures, the pachistachis container must be moved to a warmer place where there is no cold air circulation. With proper care and suitable conditions, pachistachis will eventually recover and straighten the twisted leaves. By the way, you can speed up the recovery of your pet by spraying it with any growth biostimulant that will help relieve stress - Albit, Epin.

Pachystachys yellow (Pachystachys) has been known to Russian lovers of indoor floriculture for a long time. However, not everyone knows what kind of care is required for this native of the southern Peruvian countries.
Currently, depending on climatic conditions, pachistachis flowers can be used not only to decorate window sills, but also as landscape shrub. After all, with properly organized agrotechnical care, the height of the kuta can reach one and a half meters. It's high ornamental plant, in harsh climates with cold winters can be used for planting in seedlings. But the main practical use is the cultivation indoor flower pachistachis at home.
There are several varieties of pachistachis. This is yellow view, which is most often found in our homes. In addition to it, there is pachistachis red, orange, purple, white. Description of the pachistachis flower with a photo
Pachistachis flowers, according to the description, are an evergreen shrub that is used in the landscape landscape and as a houseplant. Belongs to the acanthus family. The homeland of the flower is the territory South America, where it is still common in wild culture in El Salvador and Peru.
At proper care reaches a height of 1.5 - 2.0 meters. For cultivation at home, agricultural technology provides for the formation of compact plants with a small stem height. The leaves have an elongated spear-shaped shape. Differ in a glossy saturated surface of dark green color. The average leaf length is 6 cm. Veins are expressed on them. healthy plant covered with foliage with the edges down very densely, which creates the effect of a ball. You can see pachistachis in the photo.
The flowers have the shape of an ear, which is formed by inflorescences tightly attached to each other. Spike tetrahedral, saturated yellow, red, orange or white color. As the ear matures, white wings begin to appear from the axils of the inflorescences, which only add to the exotic look of the flower. The life time of one ear can be from 2 weeks to 1 month. After that, the inflorescence is discarded.

Flowering is long. In the conditions of the middle lane, it can only be interrupted for a period of reduction daylight hours, for 1 - 2 months. To prolong the flowering of pachistachis, regular full-fledged top dressing is necessary in the form of organic and mineral fertilizers. The use of pachistachis flowers in culture
Pachistachis yellow flowers are easy to grow in room conditions. For reproduction, the method of cuttings and dividing the bush is used. For cultivation, places are selected with high level lighting throughout the day. Otherwise, it is possible to stretch the stems and fall off the leaves.
AT middle lane Russian pachistachis can be used as a decorative landscape culture. Usually, the seedling method of growing is used for this. For future planting, cuttings are carried out in the first half of February. The cuttings take root and are planted in seedlings. Provided additional illumination and regular feeding.
After the frosts on the soil have passed, the grown bushes are planted in the ground at the place of their permanent growth. During the period of growing seedlings, it is necessary to periodically pluck the main shoots. This way you can create a great appearance and prevent early flowering. When the air temperature outside rises to 15 degrees Celsius, you can start hardening the plants. To this end, they must be taken to Fresh air 1 per day. The procedure begins at 20 minutes and is gradually brought up to 3 hours. Growing pachistachis: care and propagation by cuttings
Growing pachistachis at home is not a burdensome process. However, it is worth knowing the basic rules of agricultural technology in order to get a beautiful and abundantly flowering plant, and not an incomprehensible form of a bush with elongated stems and single inflorescences.

Pachistachis is planted in fertile, well-structured soil, which must first be enriched with organic matter in the form of humus, compost or rotted manure. Propagation of pachistachis by cuttings is the most affordable way in our conditions. For cuttings, fresh, healthy shoots up to 12 cm long are taken. They are cut sharp knife and placed in water. Water changes daily until roots up to 1 cm long appear. At this time, the cuttings take root in individual containers or immediately planted in a pot in which they will grow constantly. In this case, it is advisable to plant 3-5 cuttings in one container. So it will be easier for you to form the correct shape of the bush and achieve abundant flowering.
When pachistachis is propagated by cuttings, the plant retains all its maternal properties, including the color of the seed heads, its shape and standard length. For selection, the methods of crossing, propagation by seeds are used.
It is necessary to provide appropriate care for pachistachis at home. Being natives of the hot regions of our planet, this flower does not tolerate even short-term exposure to cold air. Therefore, you should not allow drafts, especially in autumn and winter time. This can lead to massive leaf shedding and cessation of flowering.
Regular watering is required. in summer and spring time watering should be daily until the earthen coma is completely wet. In winter and late autumn, watering is carried out as the topsoil dries up. As the leading measures for the care of pachistachis at home, regular spraying of the leaves with settled warm water is listed. In the hot season, spraying can be carried out 2-3 times a day. However, make sure that plants with water droplets on their leaves and flowers are not exposed to sunlight. This may cause a burn.
Top dressing is carried out depending on the time of year. During the period of growing green mass, use mineral fertilizers with a high percentage of nitrogen and organic matter. In preparation for flowering, magnesium and potassium should predominate in the composition of the fertilizer. This will ensure the laying of a large number of flower buds and their more intense color. Organics should be applied 1 time in 2 weeks. Mineral supplements are held 2 times a week during the flowering period and 1 time in 2 weeks during the dormant period. Diseases and pests of pachistachis
There are some specific diseases and pests of pachistachis that create problems when it indoor cultivation. Most often, whiteflies, mealybugs, aphids, and spider mites settle on flowers. May be affected powdery mildew. Against pests and diseases, you should use special preparations that you can buy in stores.
In the summer, the problem with diseases and pests is solved by regularly airing the shrubs in the open air under the direct unprotected action of ultraviolet rays.
Very often, gardeners complain that pachistachis leaves curl. This is a consequence of insufficient watering and dryness of the surrounding air. Inspect the leaves from the inside, if you do not see any damage and insects there, then just soak thoroughly earthen clod and intensify the watering of the plant. To soak an earthen clod, a pot with a plant is placed for 10 hours with a basin of settled water. room temperature.
If pachistachis leaves fall, then this is a consequence of improper care of the plant at home. It is necessary to reconsider our policy of applying mineral fertilizers. Most likely, this is a consequence of nitrogen deficiency. Also check the moisture content of the earthy coma and spray the leaves of the plant at least once a day.
we hope that we have provided you with comprehensive information about pachistachis indoor flowers, their reproduction and cultivation at home. We wish you good luck in cultivating this exotic guest on our windowsills.

Because of unusual flowering pachistachis has long attracted the attention of flower growers. Due to the bright yellow, and sometimes bright red bract, on which snow-white flowers appear, this plant got its second name - “thick ear”. A real representative of the humid subtropics throughout the year remains with green foliage. With proper care, he will decorate any collection of indoor flowers with his presence. The prevailing opinion that caring for him at home is challenging task, is not entirely correct.

Description of pachistachis

Pachistachis is native to the humid subtropics of the eastern coast of the Indian Peninsula. It also grows in South and Central America.

There are up to 12 types of pachystachys, but only two of them are kept as a houseplant - yellow pachystachys (Pachystachys lutea) and red (Pachystachys coccinea).

Pachistachis blooms from spring to autumn. If they allow climatic conditions, pachistachis can grow in open field, successfully creating compositions with others garden plants. In this case, it forms a large bush correct form, decorated with many flowers.

The sizes of indoor specimens are much smaller.

Temperature regime

As with any subtropical plant, the optimum temperature for pachistachis is 20–22°C. The maximum is 25 ° C, so during the summer heat the flower can shed its leaves, escaping from moisture loss. If the leaves still remain, they become small, the flowering of the plant stops.

AT winter period the air temperature can be less - 15–18 ° С. A short-term decrease (up to 10 ° C) will not kill the plant, but in this case it will immediately shed its leaves. Therefore, it is better to avoid such experiments.

illumination

AT natural conditions pachistachis bushes are large, but not higher than the surrounding lush vegetation of the subtropics, so the plant is used to a lot of light. However, not to direct sunbeams, but to the lighting scattered by the foliage of larger plants. In mid-latitude conditions, it is advisable to keep it on the east or south window. In this case, pachistachis will receive enough light throughout the year.

It is not required to create additional lighting in winter to artificially extend the daylight hours for pachistachis.

Watering frequency

The soil in the pot should be sufficiently moist. In the spring-summer period, watering is carried out often - once every 1-2 days. It all depends on the air temperature - the higher it is, the faster the moisture evaporates from the soil. AT autumn-winter period rest is done less often. At this time, you should ensure that the soil in the pot simply does not dry out. Do not allow stagnation of water in the soil, because this leads to rotting of the roots.

The soil should retain moisture, but be well permeable to water. For this purpose, expanded clay drainage is used - the balls are placed on the bottom of the pot and mixed in a small amount with the soil. Expanded clay will retain moisture and gradually release it to the soil.

Air humidity

For creating comfortable conditions need to support high humidity air around pachistachis. To do this, the pot with the plant should be placed on a pallet with wet material, for example, with moss, or spray the flower with settled and warm (22 ° C) water.

With the formation of yellow bracts and with the flowering of pachistachis, spraying with water should be carried out very carefully.

Ground Requirements

Normal growth and development of pachistachis provides loose and slightly acidic soil. To prepare a suitable mixture at home, you need to adhere to the following proportions:

  • compost, peat, sand - 2:1:1;
  • compost, peat, perlite - 2:1:1;
  • clay, sod land, peat, leafy land, humus, sand - 2:1:1:1:1:1.

From purchased raw materials, any universal primer is best suited for indoor plants. The main indicator of whether it is suitable or not is acidity, which must be indicated on the package (pH = 5.5–6.0).

At the bottom of the pot you need to place drainage - expanded clay balls. Vermiculite, which is often found in purchased soils. However, the vermiculite particles are quite small, so if expanded clay is not placed at the very bottom of the pot, the lower layer of soil can overcompact and disrupt the moisture regulation in the pot.

top dressing

When pachistachis is actively growing and blooming, it needs to be fed (it is forbidden to do this if it is unhealthy or not rooted). Usually complex mineral and organic fertilizers. In the spring-summer period, the plant should be fed once every two months. They do not do this in autumn and winter. The optimal time is evening. Before fertilizing, it is necessary to water the soil abundantly with settled warm water(22°-24°). It is forbidden to perform the procedure if the earthen ball is dry - this can burn the roots.

Exist a large number of feeding recipes for pachistachis. Very often, organic fertilizers are used in the form of two-year-old natural compost obtained from animal and poultry waste (for example, from a dacha or from a village).

When using organic fertilizers in the form of natural compost, careful sterilization should be carried out, as it contains a large number of pest larvae and mold spores, which will cause serious harm to a houseplant.

Purchased fertilizers can also be used for top dressing. Their advantage:

  1. Optimum acidity.
  2. A balanced ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium (NPK complex) and other macro- and microelements.
  3. Free from pathogens, pests and mold thanks to pasteurization and airtight packaging.

There are 2 ways to fertilize plants: root - nutrients enter the soil and are absorbed by the roots; foliar - top dressing is introduced through the leaves, stems (by spraying).

If you don't know which fertilizer to use, then choose a fertilizer that has an equal NPK ratio - for example, 12:12:12 or 10:10:10. For flowering plants the dose of phosphorus must significantly exceed the amount of nitrogen, in which case the formula can be 20:50:20 or 10:50:10.

Table: purchased fertilizers for pachistachis

Fertilizer name What is The main composition of the fertilizer Information about the degree of acidity
Biohumusgranules with a diameter of 0.1-3 mm with the smell of earthorganic matter obtained by processing earthworms cow dung and bird droppingsneutral
Fertika Luxwater soluble crystalline fertilizernitrogen - 16, phosphorus - 20, potassium - 27neutral
Albatross Sprintfoliar top dressing with elements in the form of chelatesnitrogen - 10, phosphorus - 52, potassium - 10, other elements: magnesium, molybdenum, boron, copper, zinc, iron, manganese, calciumsubacid

Care in the spring and summer

Transfer and transshipment

To save decorative properties pachistachis and constant flowering once a year it is transplanted. This is done in the spring, until the plant begins to sprout new shoots.

When transplanting, the volume of the pot should not be significantly increased, the main goal is to change the soil to a new, more nutritious one.

There are 3 ways to replace soil:

  • transplant with the release of the roots from the old soil;
  • transshipment with the preservation of the old clod of earth with roots;
  • replacement of the top layer (when the plant is very large and in big pot, you can loosen only a part of the earth with a depth of 5–10 cm and replace it with new soil).

How to transplant a plant and carry out transshipment


Table: comparison of clay and plastic pots

pot type Advantages disadvantages
ClayHeavy in weight, so it's harder to tip overbreaks easily
Has a porous structure, so the plant breathes betterSoil dries out faster than in plastic pots
The soil in such a container rarely turns sour even when it is waterlogged.Pores become clogged over time, it is impossible to wash them
More expensive than a plastic pot
PlasticLightweight and doesn't break easily when droppedIn summer, the pot heats up quickly
Holds moisture wellThe soil in such a container can turn sour when waterlogged.
A wide range of shapes and colors of similar containers
It is inexpensive

Do I need to prune the plant?

On the day of transplantation, the plant is also pruned to further obtain young shoots that will bloom - all tops are removed from an adult plant.

How and why to pinch

In order for the pachistachis bush to be lush and bloom, young stems need to be pinched annually. This is done at the moment when the plant reaches a height of 10–15 cm. They pinch the central shoot and the side shoots. New ones appear in this place, they pinch the tops. The result is a well-branched shrub of the correct shape.

If pruning and pinching is not done every year, the stems of the plant will stretch out, completely losing foliage in the lower part (up to 2/3 of the length), and will stop producing flowers.

Reproduction of pachistachis

cuttings

Cuttings are the most reliable and fast way reproduction of pachistachis. A properly cut cutting placed in water takes root in 2 weeks. The sequence of actions is as follows:


seeds

Reproduction by seeds requires some effort:

  1. Prepare the soil for planting: mix peat and perlite in a 1:1 ratio.
  2. Sterilize it (leave for 1-2 minutes in microwave oven or hold over steam for 20 minutes).
  3. Place sterile soil in a bowl and spread the seeds over its surface, lightly sprinkling them.
  4. Cover everything with plastic wrap.
  5. Spray the soil daily with settled and warm (20–23 ° C) water. It should not dry out, overmoisten, become moldy.
  6. When shoots appear after a few weeks (the period depends on temperature and humidity), remove the film and place the bowl in a bright and warm place (20–22 ° C).
  7. After a few leaves appear, the seedlings are planted in small pots with soil prepared for pachistachis.

On the inside film must not accumulate cold condensate.

Table: Why leaves and stipules curl, fall off, and so on - common gardener mistakes

A sign of deterioration of the plant Cause How to fix the situation
The plant does not bloomlow humidityIncrease humidity by spraying with settled and warm water.
air temperature fluctuations
Late floweringtoo big potWait until the roots of the plant fill the entire volume of the pot.
Leaves curl and dryinsufficient watering of the plantResume normal watering.
low air humidityMore often spray the plant with settled and warm water.
pest damageCarefully inspect the pachistachis (especially the undersurface of the leaves) and control pests if found.
The tips of the leaves dry uprare wateringObserve the watering regime.
dry indoor airSpray the plant with settled and warm water.
nutritional deficienciesCarry out feeding if this sign appeared in the spring-summer period.
The stems are strongly drawn out, the leaves become smallinsufficient lightingChange the location of the plant and provide it with bright diffused lighting.
The lower part of the trunk is exposedno annual pruningRegularly prune in March-April.
Inflorescences deteriorate and fallwater ingress when spraying on inflorescencesMake sure that when spraying water does not fall on the inflorescences.
Leaves turn yellow and falldrying up of an earthen coma
low lightChange the location of the plant and provide bright diffused lighting.
low humidityIncrease the humidity by spraying with settled and warm (+22 ° C) water.
draftsProtect the plant from drafts.
Wither and fall of the lower leaveslack of moisture in the soilFollow the correct watering schedule.
low temperature in roomEnsure optimal temperature conditions.
The leaves are fadingan insufficient amount nutrients in soilFeed the plant with organic or complex mineral fertilizers.

Table: Pests and control measures

Pest Signs of plant damage Preparations for the treatment of plants Pest control measures
spider miteleaves are drooping, on their lower part there is an air web
  • Vertimek;
  • Fitoverm;
    Akarin;
  • Aktar;
  • Agrivertin;
  • Karate;
  • Karbofos;
  • Neoron;
  • Sulfur.
Necessary:
  • wash the plant in the shower;
  • treat with soapy water and cover for two weeks plastic bag then wash off the soap;
  • if the mite reappears, apply suitable insecticides.

The treated plant cannot be placed on the windowsill for 1-2 days. With a strong lesion, 2-4 treatments are carried out with an interval of 7-10 days.

Mealybugwhite waxy coating on stems, leaves, buds and flowers
  • Aktar;
  • Akarin;
  • Agravertin;
  • Spark Bio;
  • Karate,
  • Intavir;
  • Fitoverm.
Options:
  • wipe the plant with a soapy solution with the addition of a few drops of machine oil;
  • treat with an alcohol solution or a water-oil emulsion;
  • replace upper layer soil;
  • apply insecticides.

The plant should be treated at least 4 times with an interval of 7-8 days.

Shchitovkastems covered with brown tubercles
whiteflytwisting of leaves, deformation of bracts and flowers
  • Aktar;
  • Actellik;
  • Double effect;
  • Spark;
  • Admiral;
  • Commander;
  • Mospilan;
  • Oberon;
  • Tanrek.
You can do the following:
  • shake off pests from the plant, collect them and destroy them;
  • clean the pachistachis with a vacuum cleaner, being careful not to damage the leaves;
  • spray with onion-garlic water;
  • use sticky traps yellow color for insects;
  • treat the plant with suitable preparations.
thrips
  • the appearance of yellow or discolored spots and stripes on the leaves, their gradual merging;
  • holes form in the leaves, they wither and fall off

Video: The nuances of growing a flower

Young plants annually, adults - once every 2-3 years Summer 20-23, winter 16-19 In spring and summer - once every 3-4 days, in winter once every 10-14 days Daily Bright ambient lighting

Lighting

Pachistachis needs bright, but diffused lighting. East or west windows are ideal.

When placed on a southern windowsill, shading will be needed at noon, and there will be a lack of light on the northern one.

Poor flowering or its absence may indicate insufficient lighting., as well as stretching shoots.

Care for pachistachis at home in winter is different, the plant needs, for example, with the help of a fluorescent or fitolamp. He should organize a 10-hour light day.

Temperature

Feel comfortable in spring and summer pachistachis will be at 20-23 degrees. At higher temperatures, it is important to provide high humidity. in winter optimal temperature is 16-19 degrees, but not lower than 14.

The room in which pachistachis is located is recommended to be regularly ventilated. However, it should be protected from cold drafts, as well as from warm air currents.

If the wintering is colder or the summer is very hot, the leaves of the plant may fall off, and the shoots will become bare. It is better to place the flower away from heating appliances.

The plant develops well without a cool wintering. Content all year round at room temperature 20-25 ° C can only affect its flowering - it becomes not so plentiful and long.

The higher the temperature of the winter content of pachistachis, the more intensively it grows during this period. That's why when natural light becomes insufficient, it is recommended to lengthen daylight hours, including artificial lighting.

Watering

In spring and summer, watering pachistachis should be plentiful - once every 3-4 days. Between moistening, the topsoil should dry out slightly. Starting in autumn, the frequency of watering is gradually reduced.

In winter, the soil is moistened every 10-14 days 1-2 days after the top layer dries.

Pachistachis is very sensitive to changes in irrigation regime.. Therefore, both waterlogging and drying out of the soil should be avoided.

Use for irrigation should be at room temperature, without lime and chlorine.

The soil

The soil for planting pachistachis should be nutritious, slightly acidic, well pass moisture and air. Suitable for any slightly acidic substrate for flowering houseplants bought in the store. You can prepare the composition yourself by mixing the following components:

A little crushed pine bark can be added to the mixture to loosen and oxidize the soil. It is important not to forget about good layer drainage.

Fertilizer

Top dressing of pachistachis is carried out during the period of growth and flowering - from April to August. Regularity - once every 14-20 days. To do this, it is optimal to use complex fertilizers for flowering houseplants. In winter, no fertilizer is needed.

Before feeding pachistachis, it should be poured with warm water.

No more than 1 time per season in spring, the plant is fed with organic fertilizers. For this purpose, liquid and dry organic fertilizers for indoor plants are suitable. You can use the infusion of rotted mullein. It must be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10, and then this liquid should be applied to moist soil. Mullein contributes to the growth of leaf mass, which is necessary for the beginning of flowering.

Useful to add to the infusion wood ash. For 1 bucket of infusion, 50 g of carefully crushed ash is enough. This additive enriches the fertilizer with potassium, which is necessary for long flowering plants.

Humidity

Pakhistakhis prefers a fairly high humidity - not lower than 55%.

To provide favorable conditions the plant is recommended to be placed in a tray filled with wet sphagnum moss or expanded clay.

It will not be superfluous to arrange containers with water around the flower. If possible, it is advisable to use a humidifier.

Pachistachis needs spraying all year round. Spraying is carried out once a day - in the morning or in the evening. However, on hot summer days, as well as in a room with dry air, a two-time spraying is recommended.

The procedure requires a fine-grained spray gun and warm settled water.

Peculiarities

For abundant flowering, the plant must be kept in winter with slightly low temperature(16-19°C). At this time, its watering is slightly reduced, watered every 10 days and only after the top layer of the earth dries out. Top dressing is not carried out in the winter.

In order for pachistachis to bloom for a long time and magnificently, it is necessary to create the following conditions for it:

  • Plant the plant in a cramped flowerpot so that the plant does not waste time mastering the roots of a large earthen coma;
  • Plant several cuttings in one flowerpot to form a lush bush;
  • Carry out regular pruning of the bush, since inflorescences are formed only on the tops of young shoots;
  • Be sure to feed the bush during the growing season and flowering.

The first pruning of a young pachistachis is carried out after the appearance of two or three internodes. The top of the cutting is pinched at a distance of 15 cm from the ground, stimulating the growth of side shoots. After the appearance of additional shoots, they are also pinched when the third pair of leaves appears on them. After the flowering of the bush, each crown is cut off, and 2 shoots grow at the place of the cut.

Diseases

Consider how to care for pachistachis at home during an illness.

Pachistachis - hardy and resistant plant. However, when improper care it can be affected: aphids, spider mite, whitefly or mealybug.

Prevention of the appearance of pests is timely watering and spraying, compliance with the required temperature regime.

Consider how to propagate pachistachis.

Pachistachis cuttings in the spring. For this, apical shoots with 2 internodes are cut with a sharp knife.

Pachistachis cuttings take root in a container of water at a temperature of 20-23 degrees.

Spraying should be done daily with water at room temperature. To speed up the rooting process, the cuttings are covered with glass or film. Daily airing for 30-40 minutes is necessary.

When the roots appear, and this happens after 2-3 weeks, the cuttings are planted in individual pots, up to 12 cm in diameter. After 2-3 months, when young specimens take root well, they are transplanted into permanent place into large pots.

In order for the pachistachis bush to be lush and beautiful in the future, it is recommended to plant several cuttings in one container.

Transfer

Now we will learn how to transplant pachistachis.

Pachistachis follows in the spring. For young specimens, this procedure is carried out annually, and for adults - once every 2-3 years.

The plant prefers wide, but shallow containers. The new one should be 2-4 cm larger in diameter than the previous one.

It is optimal to combine transplantation with pinching shoots. Such a crown formation will allow you to grow a lush ornamental bush.

The root system of pachistachis grows rapidly, especially in the first year of his life. If the roots of the plant have grown out through the drainage holes, it needs a transplant. Young specimens sometimes have to be transplanted twice a year - in spring and autumn.

In order not to injure the roots, absolutely healthy flower transplanted by transshipment. A diseased plant is recommended to be transplanted with a revision of the root system and a complete replacement of the soil. When transplanting, it is necessary to lay good drainage to remove excess moisture from the soil.

Description of the species and varieties

Pakhistachis - perennial evergreen shrub, common in tropical regions of South and Central America, in eastern Australia and in Eastern India. This is enough large plant with straight shoots covered with dark green leaves up to 12 cm long. Plant height - up to 2 m.

At the tops of the shoots, pachistachis forms bright spike-shaped inflorescences of a yellow or reddish hue. These are bracts on which white, quickly fading flowers bloom. Shrub blooms from late March to mid-autumn. On one plant there are up to 20 inflorescences at the same time.

The following types of this plant are most popular:

These varieties differ in the size of the bush and the shade of the inflorescences. Yellow pachistachis grows up to 1 m in height. The bush during flowering is covered with bright yellow spicate inflorescences. The red variety of pachistachis is somewhat larger - up to 2 m. It blooms with green inflorescences, on which bright orange-red flowers bloom.

Photo of pachistachis in the process of care at home and in vivo:

Despite the fact that pachistachis has been well known in floriculture since the 19th century, today it is not often seen in homes. The plant belongs to the Acanthus family and includes approximately 12 species. However, only three species are common in cultural floriculture. All of them represent perennial shrubs and are widely used for decorative gardening in countries with a warm climate (where the air temperature does not fall below +10 degrees).

In translation, the name "pahistahis" means "thick ear" or "thick thorn". The plant is named so because original form exotic inflorescence.

Homeland and appearance of pachistachis

The plant is native to the tropical forests of Central and South America, the eastern part of Australia and the subtropics of eastern India.

Pachistachis is evergreen reaching a height of one meter. The shoots are erect, the leaves are opposite. The leaf plate is oval, pointed at the top, dark green in color, up to 12 cm long, slightly wrinkled.

The inflorescences are of the greatest value: bright yellow bracts forming a spike-shaped inflorescence up to 10 cm in length. The flowering period of one inflorescence is up to 12 days. One mature plant can form up to 20 inflorescences in one flowering period.

Pakhistachis is a rare guest in indoor floriculture, many flower growers are simply afraid to grow it, explaining their fear by the difficult nature of the flower and the difficulties in caring for it. In fact, the process of growing pachistachis is quite simple, the main thing is to know the basic secrets of success.

In indoor floriculture, Yellow pachistachis is most popular, however, you can also find a plant with red flowers. For those who want to grow a real yellow miracle, it is important to pinch the shoots in a timely manner and follow the recommendations of specialists.

Watering mode and air humidity

The plant needs abundant watering during the period from spring to autumn. In winter, watering is reduced, controlling that the earth in the flowerpot has time to dry out a little.

Pachistachis is equally sensitive to both over watering, and to overdrying the earthy coma.

You need to spray the flower throughout the year, using soft, settled water. If the air in the room is too dry, pachistachis can be sprayed twice a day. Pallets with wet expanded clay, gravel or moss also help.

Lighting Requirements

Bright diffused light is considered the most comfortable for the plant, so for pachistachis it is preferable to choose eastern and western windows.

In winter, you can use an additional source of lighting.

Temperature regime

+20 degrees is considered the optimum temperature for a plant in spring and summer; at a higher temperature, air humidity should be increased.

In autumn and winter, the plant feels great at temperatures from +16 to +19 degrees. Temperatures below +14 degrees are considered dangerous.

Avoid sudden changes in temperature and drafts.

Fertilizer and top dressing

During the period active growth pachistachis needs top dressing once every ten days complex fertilizers. It is important not to overdo it with the concentration of top dressing.

Young plants need an annual transplant, optimal time for this - the end of February or the beginning of March. Before proceeding with the transplant, it is necessary to cut the pachistachis.

It is best to transplant the bush into an earthen mixture of:

  • Turf land - two parts;
  • Peat land - one part;
  • Leaf land - one part;
  • Humus and sand - one part each.

In specialized stores, you can buy a ready-made earthen mixture for decorative flowering plants.

It is necessary to provide for high-quality drainage, and add vermiculite or crushed pine bark to the soil as a baking powder so that water does not stagnate in the flowerpot and in the pan after watering. In addition, pine bark slightly oxidizes the soil, which is what pakhistakhis needs, since it does not tolerate alkaline soils.

Plants are propagated from cuttings after spring pruning. To do this, processes with two internodes are cut. Rooting of cuttings occurs at high humidity and a temperature of at least +20 degrees. The cuttings are placed in clean water and cover the container with glass or polyethylene.

It is important to air young shoots every day for half an hour.
After a few weeks, roots appear on the cuttings, which means that they can be planted in the ground.

For shoots, small pots are chosen, the diameter of which does not exceed 12 cm. After a few months, when the young pachistachis takes root in new conditions, gets stronger, it can be transplanted to a permanent place using the transshipment method.

Some novice flower growers mistakenly take its stipules for a pachistachis flower. In fact, the flowers of the plant are small, white, short-lived and quickly fall off.

It is the stipules of bright yellow or red color that are of the greatest decorative value. long time decorate the plant, namely from spring to the second half of autumn.

However, in order for pachistachis to bloom for a long time and magnificently, some rules must be observed:

  1. Close vase. Peduncles are formed only when the root system is crowded in a pot.
  2. Regular pruning. Inflorescences are formed only at the tops of the shoots, which is why with early age it is necessary to form lush bush with large quantity crowns. The first pinching is carried out when two or three internodes appear on the plant;
  3. Complete nutrition. Quite often, young shoots cannot fully develop and form inflorescences; for this, the plant is fed;

Regular pruning is necessary for pachistachis not only to form a beautiful crown, but also to stimulate abundant flowering.

The trimming and pinching algorithm is as follows:

  • The first pruning is carried out at a height of 15 cm from the ground surface;
  • On each tier of shoots that develop from lateral buds, it is necessary to pinch the third pair of leaves.

During the first year of such procedures, at least three will be required. As a result, a bush with 10-12 tops grows by winter.

Next spring, it is necessary to trim all the tops. Each top forms two shoots, so there will already be from 16 to 24 full-fledged tops on the bush and flowers will appear on them. At the end of flowering, each crown is again divided into two. AT next year in the spring, you will need to cut all the tops of the pachistachis again.

Quite often, situations arise when the lower part of the stem is exposed in an adult plant, in which case it is possible to cut the plant completely, leaving no more than 10-15 cm from the ground.

Regular and timely pinching contributes to a more magnificent growth of the bush and prevents its lower part from being exposed.

Diseases and pests of pachistachis

Pachistachis is a very resistant and hardy plant, but a careless attitude to a flower can lead to disastrous consequences.

insect pests

In the fight against insects such as mealybug, aphids, scale insects will help chemicals, it is also important to maintain flower hygiene by regularly spraying the leaves and wiping them from dust. Some flower growers recommend a little pruning of the plant to remove the most affected parts of the pachistachis.

Changes in the appearance of the plant

Causes:

  • Too much heat leads to the appearance brown spots on the leaves, their yellowing and falling off;
  • Drafts and too low air temperatures lead to leaf fall;
  • The leaves turn yellow due to insufficient watering, lack of light and low humidity;
  • The lack of light is reflected in the splendor of the plant;
  • Failure to comply with the irrigation regime leads to the death of the root system.

For the harmonious and proper development of pachistachis, he needs regular ventilation.

Note to florist

Why do pachistachis leaves curl?

As a rule, the reason lies in non-compliance with the rules of cultivation:

  • Too dry air in the room, this is especially evident in the autumn-winter period, when the heating system is turned on. You can easily fix the problem if you put a flowerpot with a plant in a tray with wet pebbles or expanded clay;
  • Sharp temperature drop. In this case, the leaves not only curl, but can also fall off.

Why does pachistachis not bloom?

There may be several reasons:

  • Insufficient lighting, it is best to grow the plant on the east or west windows;
  • Insufficient nutrient content in the soil, pachistachis needs top dressing with organic and mineral fertilizers in a minimum concentration, while the frequency of top dressing is once every ten days.

Pahistachis care video


If you want your house to be decorated with a plant that blooms from spring to autumn, pay attention to pachistachis - amazing flower from rainforest India and Australia. There is an opinion that the plant is difficult to grow at home, but experts assure that this is not at all the case. The main thing is to provide the flower with high humidity, protect it from direct sun and drafts, and also cut it regularly and you will surely grow a lush, bright pachistachis bush.