How to close the storm drain. Arrangement and laying of storm sewers on the territory of a private house. Design and preparation

Water accumulating on the site can cause some inconvenience to residents. If this happened to you, this indicates the need for installation. It will consist of storm water inlets, pipes, trays and wells.

What is a storm sewer

If you wondered what it is - a storm drain, then you should know that it is a system where water is collected for subsequent output. If such a design will be installed on the site, then it must be located around the perimeter of the house. As a result, it will be possible to obtain a whole network of branches that will collect, filter and accumulate water.

If there is no storm drain on the site, then precipitation will flow to the house, destroying the foundation and the adjacent area over time. When wondering what it is - a storm drain, you should know that it has a standard scheme, which is quite simple. Channels can be located above the ground or under the ground, they intersect each other in several places, and these points are called water collectors.

The design of the storm drain should be carried out together with drainage system. These structures are laid simultaneously. The elements will be parallel, this is true if the foundation of the building is laid too deep.

Storm drain installation methods

Sewerage for Wastewater can be classified according to installation methods. Water may enter the drain pipe. However, the system near the foundation must be mounted without errors, it is important to select pipes whose cross section will be able to withstand the imposed loads.

The main advantage of installing a drainage system is the cost-effectiveness of components. However, water will splash and fall on the walls of the house. You should be prepared for the fact that the silting of the drainage pipe will occur about 3 times faster.

Thinking about the question of what it is - a storm drain, you should also pay attention to the consistent design of the outer trays. This scheme is quite common, but when the temperature drops, it can freeze. Sometimes formed in the spring ice crust on the pavement. The main advantage of a storm drain arranged according to this technique is the ease of installation.

The third method is the installation of storm water inlets located under the roof drains. The pipes are connected in a single circuit, which is located in the ground. The liquid is discharged outside the site, which reduces the degree of load on the drainage system, which remains unaffected. This storm drain fits better than the rest into the exterior of the site and does not damage the landscape.

How to make a storm drain yourself

After you figured out what it is - storm water, you can begin to equip it. Work begins with drawing up a diagram, which is necessary for calculating the material and acquiring it in the right amount. It is important to determine how many risers are in the drain from the roof. The number of storm water inlets will depend on this value.

You can determine the length of the pipe, taking into account the dimensions of the perimeter of the house. At this stage, you must determine the depth of the system. If you plan to use it all year round, then the depth should be below the freezing line of the soil. surface scheme styling is suitable for that stormwater drain, which will be used only in the warm season. The stormwater device may include the installation of a heating system on the roof, which will ensure the melting of ice in the cold season. In this case, the system will need to be buried by 1.5 m.

Conducting training

Before you make a storm drain with your own hands, you must mark and dig a trench for pipes. The depth is determined taking into account each area individually and depends on the level of soil freezing. The trench should be placed a maximum of 50 cm below the frost line. These centimeters will be needed for the installation of a sand cushion.

The width of the trench will depend on the section of the pipes and should be 15 cm larger, which will simplify the laying of the sand cushion. If you plan to arrange a stormwater drainage with your own hands, and it is not possible to dig a trench of the required depth, then it is recommended to lay pipes and insulate them with special material.

The diameter of the products should be 100 mm or more, but in the latter case, the trench should be wider and deeper. The storm drain will work on the principle of gravity, so it is important to ensure a slope of 2 cm per meter. If you are thinking about the question of how to make a storm drain, then you should also take care of the presence of manholes, the number of which is determined by the number of bends and branches. They are covered with thermal insulation and supplemented with special hatches.

If the step from the gutter or collector to the house exceeds 10 m, then the transition must be supplemented with a manhole. If rainwater is planned to be used for domestic purposes and brought to the site, then the sewage system is done in such a way that the initial accumulation was in the collector.

The sequence of work

Installing a storm drain may not involve installation. At the same time, holes must be cut in the pipe through which a certain volume of liquid from the system will go into the soil. However, it will be impossible to clean the system. The pipes should be fastened together with maximum tightness, for this the seams are processed waterproof glue or sealant.

When the collector and pipes are laid, a vertical drain must be installed, which must be directed to the place where the water will accumulate. The drain is connected to storm water inlets, which are also called rain funnels. You need to install them slightly below the main level of the track. The storm water inlet is placed in such a way that water from the roof gets to it.

The definition of stormwater was presented above, but it will not allow you to understand in what sequence the work should be carried out. Therefore, before starting them, you need to familiarize yourself with the technology. There are roofs where the storm water inlet is located only on one side, in which case it is not possible to directly connect the sewer pipe to the funnel. Under such conditions, a guide elbow is installed. It is necessary to divert water to the drain.

Such structures are supplemented with gutters, through which water enters the side where there is a drain. The trays and the water collector should be 60 cm deep. The water will not be very clean, so sand traps should be installed in the system, which should be located from the downpipe to the receiving trays. These elements are the same trays, but with special gratings.

Final works

Before the entry line to the garage and the porch, you must complete door systems, they will perform the function of water intake trays. From above they are covered with plastic or iron bars. water is not recommended to be buried immediately after its installation. A test run is recommended.

To do this, a bucket of water should be poured into the stormwater drain and see if the pipes allow liquid to pass through, and also whether gravity is carried out correctly. Especially carefully should be checked those places where the pipes were connected to the trays and storm water inlets at the base of the house.

Design cost

If you are not able to carry out the installation of stormwater yourself, then you should contact the experts. They offer the buyer installation with and without material. System design will cost the consumer about 1100 rubles. per running meter. But further works will differ among themselves in cost, which is affected by the use of the material by the performer.

The cost of the work

Installation of sewerage with material will cost from 1800 rubles. per running metre. If you yourself will purchase the material, then the services of specialists will cost 1200 rubles. per running metre. In this case, we are talking about deepening the system by 1 m. If pipe insulation is added to the work, then the price rises to 2100 rubles. per running metre. When the material is not purchased by the contractor, the price is reduced to 1700 rubles. per running metre. If you need to increase the depth of the storm drain, you will have to pay 3100 rubles. and 2500 rubles. per linear meter, respectively.

Finally

The basic storm sewer scheme provides for the presence of those that lead to collectors, as well as storm water inlets. The system has point catchment wells, funnels, gutters and a special tray system. Before the beginning installation work it is also important to take care of the availability additional elements in the form of siphons, sand traps and plugs. The latter are necessary to prevent the return of water to reverse direction.

Sometimes for a summer resident, the long-awaited rain at the height of the season becomes real. natural disaster. As a result of a protracted summer downpour, as well as during a spring flood, a real lake can form on the site.

In order to avoid stagnation of water, a system for collecting and removing it from the territory is needed. If a storm sewer is built with your own hands, then the cost of its construction will be minimal.

In the article presented for review, the principle of the device of the drainage system is described in detail. atmospheric water, the components of the structure are described. We will tell you how best to build it and how to maintain it. Taking into account our advice, the organization of storm water will not cause the slightest difficulty.

Storm sewer- specific design. The water discharged through this system contains both small and large debris. Therefore, in the stormwater must be primary cleaning.

The system may differ in the volume of water that it is able to accept, design, duration of effective operation.

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Based on the design of the system, 3 types of stormwater can be distinguished:

open. Has the most simple design, easy to perform, inexpensive.
Closed. This option is more complex. Here you have to deal with underground pipes, storm water inlets. The system must be planned in advance, and the installation will be better done by a specialist.
Mixed. They choose when there is not enough finance to implement option 2, and also if you need to cover a large area. It is something in between the first two.

Storm sewers of the first type are made in the form of drainage trays built into the coating. Through them, water enters a specially designated place or simply merges into the garden. The system of the second type is located below the zero point, which implies excavation in a considerable amount and the corresponding financial investments.

Surface drainage can fit perfectly into landscape design cottages, and even become its decoration. Use the system in small areas

Such a storm drain is equipped mainly during the development of the site, since this is a simpler freezing version. The system is not buried very deep - up to a maximum of a meter, but both in winter and in early spring it is not involved in the work.

So that the sewer does not freeze, the pipes are buried below the freezing point. With the third type of storm water, the sewage elements are partially located both above and in the soil.

Experts say that the choice of such expensive option‚ like a closed storm drain‚ must be justified. Such a decision can be justified by the high requirements for the design of the territory.

Stormwater design is always individual. It is unlikely that there will be sites with absolutely similar conditions. They will always differ, if not in relief, then in layout, soil properties, and the number of outbuildings.

Storm drains are needed both at the enterprise and in private property. The difference in their design lies in the fact that large-scale systems are combined with the discharge of treated water, which is used for the needs of the enterprise.

The main elements of a classic sewer

Storm sewerage is point and linear. The first option involves collecting water from surfaces that do not absorb moisture, such as roofs, hard-surfaced areas. Further, the effluents follow into the receiving tanks, and after that they enter the drainage system.

With a linear method of wastewater disposal, water is drained into trays located near paths and platforms. A simplified version of the storm sewer consists of the following elements:

central pipe laid under a layer of earth and finishing coating and leading the collected water to extreme point scheme;
trays - main part a system that transports excess water to sand traps; the efficiency of the drainage system largely depends on them;
a storm water inlet located under a pipe or a low point in the yard to collect liquid;
filters and distributors - invisible, but extremely important components.

All elements included in the system are equally important. If any of them fails, the efficiency of the entire structure decreases.

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Types of storm water inlets for sewerage

The purpose of the storm water inlet is to collect moisture coming from pipes, yard cover. This element is the first to take over the entire volume of water coming from the downpipes. When choosing a storm water inlet, they are guided by such data as the average volume of precipitation, their intensity, relief, and the area occupied by storm sewers.

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You can buy a cast-iron or plastic storm water inlet. The former are preferable in the case of heavy loads, while the latter are attractive due to their moderate cost, light weight, and simplifies installation. More cheap option- make a storm water well for storm sewers at your dacha with your own hands from brick.

The walls of the pit are lined with brick, leaving a hole for the pipe, then plastered from the inside. Better yet, leave a gap between the wall of soil and the cover and fill it with concrete. The bottom of the storm water inlet must be concreted.

Not a single stormwater can do without a storm water inlet. It preserves both the foundation of the building and the covering around it. If you try to save on its installation, then the water that gets on the foundation will lead to shrinkage and cracks on the walls of the building

Do this important element and from concrete rings. Then the lower ring can be purchased with a ready-made bottom and you do not have to fill the stove. Sometimes factory storm water inlets go on sale complete with a basket‚ siphon‚ decorative grille.

Most often used for private construction, storm water inlets made of plastic or composite materials produced in the form of a cube, in which each side is 30 -40 cm. There are adapters for the tie-in of pipes from the bottom and from all sides of the product.

Grates for storm water inlets can be of different quality and cost. You should always proceed from the expected loads on them during operation.

In order not to clog the pipes with debris that enters through the grate cells, the storm water inlets are equipped with baskets. As soon as they are full, they are taken out and cleaned, then returned to their place.

The design of the factory storm water inlet provides for partitions dividing it inner space on compartments and creating a water seal. As a result bad smell from decaying organic matter does not penetrate outside.

The efficiency of a point storm water inlet depends not only on its volume, but also on the installation location. It should be located under a drain or in a place where moisture constantly collects. If it is installed under the pipe, then the jets must hit the center of the grate exactly, otherwise some of the water will fall on the foundation or yard cover in the form of splashes.

Why are sandboxes needed?

Rain and melt water in any case contains a certain percentage of insoluble particles. If sand traps are not included in the scheme, dirt will settle in the sewer, and it will cease to function in in full. Flushing the system is expensive.

A sand trap is a chamber installed behind point receivers in places where water is discharged into underground pipes. It is designed so that the flow of water, getting into it, reduces the speed.

As a result, under the influence of gravity, suspended particles sink to the bottom, and the liquid released from them leaves through a special hole. In terms of shape, the sand catcher is a trap with a plurality of chambers located horizontally or a chamber in a vertical design.

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What are drainage channels?

How to choose pipes?

For storm sewers, according to SNiP, pipes made of metal, asbestos or plastic can be used. Most often, for a private house and a summer residence, the choice is stopped at. They are light, decorative, do not corrode, their installation is simple, but mechanical strength material‚ compared to metal‚ small.

Having chosen the material, you need to decide on the diameter of the pipes.

The initial value is the largest volume of discharged rainwater and melt water. This parameter is determined by the formula:

Q=q20×F×Ψ

Here: Q is the desired volume‚ q20 is the coefficient characterizing the intensity of precipitation for 20 seconds. (l per second per 1 ha). F is the area of the courtyard in ha, if the roof is pitched, the area is calculated on a horizontal plane. Ψ is the absorption coefficient.

Different surfaces have their own absorption coefficient. To perform independent calculations, its value can be taken from the table

Based on the calculated value and using the Lukin tables, they find not only the diameter but also the slope of the system.

Most often, domestic storm sewers are performed using pipes with a diameter of 100 mm. Optimal slope drains can be taken from this table

At correct selection the diameter of the pipes, storm sewers will cope with the task even at the moments of the most heavy rainfall. If flows from several chutes enter the pipe, they are all summed up. Professional practitioners for pipes with a cross section of 110 mm and gutters of the same diameter usually use a slope of 20 mm / rm. M.

If the pipe is connected to a storm water inlet, the slope is slightly increased to avoid stagnation of the liquid, and at the entrance to the sand trap, the slope is reduced. This slows down the movement of the water flow, and suspended particles settle to the bottom in larger quantities.

Water in this type of sewer system drains by gravity, which occurs due to the formed. There are no pressure pumps here, so it is not necessary to look for a team of professionals in a country house or in a country courtyard for a storm sewer device.

All work can be done by the owner. It is written in detail about the calculations for the organization of storm sewers, the contents of which we recommend that you familiarize yourself with.

Where is the well and collector needed?

As with any system consisting of underground pipes, there must be a well in the storm sewer.

Installing it is advisable in the following circumstances:

if 2 or more streams converge;
when it is necessary to radically change the height, direction of the pipeline or its slope;
when it becomes necessary to switch to a larger pipe diameter.

Wells are also provided at established intervals of straight sections of the system. If the diameter of the well does not exceed 150 mm, then the next one is located at a distance of 30 to 35 m. With a diameter of 200 mm - from 45 to 50 m, and if the diameter is 0.5 m, the interval is increased to 70-75 m.

The diameter of the well of a private house does not exceed 1 m. The deeper the well, the larger its diameter should be.

Some owners lay out wells in the old fashioned way from brick or reinforced concrete rings. Others prefer more advanced materials - plastic and fiberglass. According to the design, the wells are collapsible and solid.

They are in the form of a cylinder with a completely sealed bottom and a hole at the top. There are branch pipes for connecting pipes. Several collected storm water inlets are also used as wells.

All fluid flows are redirected to the collector after they are combined into one. The choice of material for this storm sewer element is individual and depends on the preferences and capabilities of the owner.

To redirect the collected water to ground treatment facilities or to gutter collector is included in the system. Sometimes his role is played by a big one. It is converted into a storage tank by hermetically closing the outlet nozzles. To use water, use submersible pump.

Under the collector, pipes of large cross section are also used - reinforced concrete or plastic with all pipelines connected to them. On the construction market, you can also purchase ready-made containers for underground use. There are multi-chamber tanks where rain and melt water are cleaned according to the same principle as in septic tanks.

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How to install a storm drain?

Storm water is installed using the same technology as a conventional sewer system. In any case, the installation of a storm sewer system is preceded by a calculation and selection of the necessary materials. Before you hit the pipes rainwater is assembled on the roof of the house, so it is logical that the construction of the drainage system begins from the top of the building.

Spot drainage of rain and melt water

The first step is the marking of the pipeline, consisting of channels, receivers, wells. Pegs are driven in at the locations of all elements. To see the full picture, a cord is laid between the pegs. The second stage is digging a trench and small recesses for storm water inlets. At the bottom they arrange sand cushion.

If there is a threat of root germination in the places where the pipeline is laid, the bottom is covered with geotextiles. The installation process begins with the installation of wells‚ collectors.

Further, smaller elements - storm water inlets, sand traps, trays. All this is combined with pipes of the estimated diameter under a slope selected from the table or recommended by SNiP. When laying the pipeline, sagging is unacceptable.

The assembled structure is tested. Water is poured onto each section to check the tightness of the joints. The amount of water poured in and out should be approximately the same. A defect such as sagging may be detected, as indicated by a significant difference in the volume of water at the inlet and outlet.

If the tests do not reveal any problems, the system is covered with a sand-cement layer and soil. Sometimes some parts of the storm sewer are combined with the drainage system. In this case, the pipes of the first must be on top of the second pipeline, but they can approach one collector.

It is impossible to allow the combination of storm sewers with ordinary household sewers. This can lead to an overload of the second with all the negative consequences.

Let's take an example of the construction of a storm sewer with point water intakes. It was built from ordinary sewer pipes. The reason was the stagnation of water on the surface, formed due to the practical absence of infiltration into the ground, associated with the clay structure of soils.

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We will assume that we laid the mains properly with a slope, connected taps to them, observing the tightness of the connections. Tightness in this case is needed not to protect the enclosing soil from rainwater, but to prevent sand from entering the system.

Let's continue the work, now we have to connect the storm drain to the pipe leading to the absorbing well:

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Photo from We connect a sewer pipe to the assembled unit, which will bring water into the filter well

We lay the outlet pipe in a trench designed for it with a slope. We lead it to the absorbing well. In fact, with observance of the slope, we cut the outlet pipe into the wall of the absorber

Prevention of malfunctions of storm sewers

Having installed the storm sewer of a private house or cottage on your own, you should not forget that it needs constant care. Preventive measures also include point storm water inlets from the debris that has settled in them.

If you neglect this procedure, the system will definitely fail. Perfect option- use of the system all year round.

Self-regulating cable is able to heat a large area. The basis of its design is a semiconductor matrix, located between two copper wires. Such a cable will prevent freezing of any pipes during a period of temperature drop.

In the cold season, thaws occur during which water from the canals and pipes enters. Then it moves into the storm sewer,

where, when frozen, it turns to ice.

To prevent the formation of ice plugs in the storm drain, they are brought into storm water inlets located under the drainpipes. So in the warmed-up system, ice jams will not be created, and if they form, it will be possible to quickly get rid of them.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

You will learn about the purpose, device and consequences of a stormwater failure from the video:

The process of installing a storm sewer will not seem so complicated after viewing this material:

Although storm sewers are difficult engineering system‚ its creation is within the power of even a person who is not burdened with deep knowledge in construction business. It is worth following all the advice exactly and the storm sewer around a private house will work flawlessly.

Please write your comments in the box below. Tell us about your own experience in organizing a storm sewer system. Ask questions, share your impressions of reading and useful information for site visitors, leave a photo on the topic.

Atmospheric precipitation is a natural phenomenon. Snow and rain falls on the roof, and then all this water flows under the foundation. As a result, the building can be damaged substantial harm. To prevent this from happening, water must be diverted. For this, a special sewer system is being created, we will tell you about it in this article.

What is a storm sewer

Many people think that storm drains are pipes that come from the roof of houses. This is not entirely true. Drainage is part of this system, but not the most important. If it is broken down into parts, then this will include:

drainage system from the roof of buildings and structures;
catchment elements (storm water inlets, trays, etc.);
sewer pipes, through which water will be removed from the site;
collectors;
viewing wells.

All these elements together make up the overall system.

Types of storm sewers

There are two types. The first, open, is used if the amount of precipitation is low. It is a system of gutters and trays that are connected into one ditch. With the help of such a system, it is possible to divert water from small areas.

It is considered more powerful closed system. In this case, various catchment elements are used, from which water (through pipes laid underground) is diverted from the site.

Whatever system you install, it will serve you well, especially in places with large quantity precipitation. Such sewage not only makes life more convenient (there will be no puddles and dirt on the site), but also helps to cope with many problems. First, by diverting excess water, you protect the house from washing away. The foundation and walls will not be flooded, which means they will last much longer.

Secondly, there will be less ice on the paths near your house, and this will increase safety. Also retraction excess moisture(especially in sloping areas) will not allow soil corrosion.

We draw up a system project

Before starting construction, it is necessary to draw up a project. And for this you need to collect some information. First of all, you should find out how much precipitation falls in the location of your home. Also collect information about the type of soil, how deep the groundwater is, etc. All this information can be found in building guides or (if possible) in the architecture department of your settlement.

Secondly, you need to calculate the slope on your site. That is, to find out in which direction all the water will flow. Another important fact that you should know is where you will divert the collected water. There may be several options here:

into the central sewer;
in a natural or artificial reservoir;
in a septic tank with equipped filtration fields;

Knowing all these data, you can plan everything. You should also familiarize yourself with such a document as SNiP 2.04.03-85. It contains all the requirements that apply to the installation of an outdoor system. They should also be taken into account.

What materials and elements to use

Before talking about how to make a storm drain, it is worth talking about the elements used and the materials for their manufacture. The system of such sewerage is a kind of pipeline, which must collect rain and melt water and bring it out of the site. Therefore, a significant part of such a system is pipes. They have special requirements:

Sufficient strength. Since they will be in the ground, they must withstand heavy loads with a margin. And both external and internal.
Resistance to aggressive environments. Rain and melt water will flow through the channels, which can carry various reagents and chemical substances, all this pipes must withstand.
Tolerance of temperature changes. The system will be outside and must withstand both summer heat and winter frosts.

In addition to the sewer pipes themselves, the described system includes a number of other elements. Their installation is optional and is done as needed. These elements include:

rainwater inlet- a structure that will collect water from the drains of the building.
rain well. It is necessary to connect the storm water inlet (which is located close to the surface) with the pipes.
Trays for collecting precipitation. They are located in the places of their greatest accumulation.
Sand traps. With their help, you can easily clean the system.
Siphons, plugs etc.

If we talk about the materials used, then you should pay attention to plastic. It is quite durable and not subject to harmful effects. environment. Plastic pipes and other elements do an excellent job of diverting water from the site. If it is necessary to lay the system under the road (for example, if the spillway is far from the site), then it is advisable to choose more durable material. In this case, asbestos-cement or reinforced concrete pipes are often used.

System installation

After collecting all necessary information and drawing up a plan, you can proceed with the installation of the system. First of all, we do the planning on the ground. We mark the installation sites of the catchment elements. We mark where the pipes will pass.

As a result of such work, you should get a single system. Sewer pipes must extend from all structures into which precipitation will fall. Through them, water will flow to the place of discharge.

Pipes are laid in trenches. It is desirable that their depth be below the level of soil freezing. If this is not possible, then it is necessary to provide insulation.

When laying pipes, a pillow is created at the bottom of the trench. It is made from a layer of sand, 10-20 cm thick. Using this pillow, it is necessary to create a slight slope of the pipe. It must be at least 2 degrees. The slope is made in the direction where the place of discharge of effluents is located.

To prevent the garbage accumulated in the basket from falling into drainpipe, and the unpleasant smell did not spread in the yard, each catchment point must be equipped with special siphon partitions.

Installation begins with the installation of storm water inlets (if you already have a drainage system installed). From each of them, the pipe must lead to a common system. Trays for collecting water and other water collection elements are also connected to the main pipe. It is also desirable to have sand traps and plugs in the system. The former make it easy to clean the system, while the latter will prevent water from flowing in the opposite direction (in case of blockage).

If the site provides for the installation of a drainage system, then the pipes can be laid with it in the same trench. But this does not mean at all that one of these systems can replace the other. They have different functions. A stormwater drain removes excess water from the surface, and drainage pipes prevent groundwater from harming the foundation of the building.

As a result, the main pipe should end with a discharge point. It can be either a reservoir, or a ravine, or a system public sewerage. But often in suburban areas they install drainage well or septic system.

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Installation of pipes and drainage of the site and foundation

Owners country house often annoyed by water formed from melting snow and precipitation. The only effective measure of protection against such a scourge is the installation of a storm sewer in a country house.

This is all the more necessary if the substrate soils are solid loams with low permeability to liquids. On such grounds, water can hold for a long time, preventing the implementation of household and garden work.

To get rid of this phenomenon, it is necessary to create conditions for the forced removal of soil water from the territory of a country house. For this purpose, it is necessary to build drainage devices.

drainage ditch

One of the simplest and available devices allowing to divert water from the site is a drainage ditch. It is best to do it if the site has a slope in one direction.

It breaks off to a depth below the freezing level of the soil. It is important to observe the slope towards the water flow along the entire length. Its value should be up to 3-5 centimeters per meter of length. Such a slope allows the water to drain slowly enough, carrying away soil particles with it, otherwise the storm sewer of a country house may quickly silt. See Storm sewers in a private house with your own p

At the bottom of the ditch, approximately a third of the depth, there is a layer of wild stones or concrete scrap. Then you need to pour coarse gravel, sand and cover it all with geotextiles. It will avoid rapid silting of the waste channel. Ideally, the gutter is led to the nearest storm water well.

AT modern conditions pipes are used as drainage various materials- steel or plastic. For greater strength for conductors of the second option, products with a corrugated wall are used. This design increases the radial strength of the product.

Drainage ditches for storm sewers on the site can also be open, which simplifies their operation.

They are of the following types:

perimeter - come off along the perimeter of the area that needs to be protected from excess moisture;
the main ones are, in fact, the main channel of the river, to which tributaries converge in the form of additional drains.

Storm sewerage in a private house - ways of arranging

The purpose of the storm drain is to quickly drain rain and melt water during the period of their greatest accumulation. The most common scheme is a surface storm drain around the house, consisting of open-top trays.

They can be cast concrete or composite from finished parts. Counting on a long service life, cast iron trays are used. But the most popular material for storm sewers in a country house are plastic trays. They are light, strong and easy to install.

The trays are closed with bars on top to prevent clogging of the drainage channels with leaves and other debris.

But this method does not always justify itself. In some cases, it is desirable to preserve the soil layer by deepening the drainage elements to a depth of about 40 centimeters. To do this, they dig a ditch with a depth of about half a meter and cover it to the top with geotextiles.

As a substrate for the bottom of a ditch gravel is poured then lay the pipe. Gravel is again poured on top of it. And here it is necessary to check one important point.

The point is that for deep and deep drainage perforated pipes are used, and holes are drilled in their walls. The diameter of these holes should be less than the fractional sizes of the gravel. In this case, the internal passage of the drain will always be free.

AT classic version use, the corrugated pipe is covered with gravel and wrapped in geotextile with overlapping edges. After that, the trench is backfilled with previously excavated soil and the sod layer is restored.

Storm sewerage device in a private house

Above, we examined the methods of arranging storm sewers on suburban area at the level of collecting water from the surface into the pipe. But this is not enough, it must be removed from the site.

To do this, individual pipes are combined into a system, in the lower part of which a drain is arranged. The drainage and storm sewer scheme on the site can be organized as follows:

First of all, you need to organize a storm drain on the roof, providing for this drain channels through which water flows down and enters the drain receiver.
The liquid enters the waste cavities through ladders with a reliable cover in the idea of a grid.
Then it flows through pipes (diameter 100 or 150 millimeters) into the storm water well.
As it accumulates, water enters the outlet pipe, which is discharged into a special container with water or simply outside the site. Rainwater storage in an underground tank is used in areas where water resources limited. It can later be reused for household needs, for example, for irrigation. personal plot, car washing and other household needs.

This applies to the disposal of rain or melt water diverted from the house. But often it is required to simultaneously drain the site, which is typical for excessively flooded areas.

The drainage and storm sewer system on the site is water supply network, the main property of which is the presence of slopes that provide free flow of liquid. Mandatory design elements:

Drainage perforated pipes. Depending on the total length of the water supply, products from 100 to 150 millimeters are used, as well as any types of fittings that facilitate the installation of the drain system.
Manholes- they are installed at the points of change in the direction of the drain. Designed to monitor the condition of pipes and eliminate blockages in them. This is done using a hose with a pressurized water supply nozzle. The obstruction is washed out with the restoration of the free flow of liquid. Such wells are also called revision wells; they are completed with metal or plastic lids protruding above the earth's surface. They are needed for preventive work on cleaning the storm sewers of a country house.

Collector wells- intended for system maintenance. Their diameter should provide penetration inside. The depth of the device is somewhat greater than that of the viewing ones; water settles in it. Therefore, it is necessary to periodically clean the well from precipitation using a mud pump.
May also apply seepage wells designed to separate debris from storm drains. They are arranged at intermediate points of the complexly branched storm sewer of a country house.

Stand apart are wall drainage systems designed to drain ground water from the foundation in heavily watered areas. The depth of such a device in any case should be greater than the depth of the foundation.

When performing work on the device of such a catchment area, first of all, the foundation itself is insulated and waterproofed. Various materials are used for this:

Roofing material and bituminous mastic for waterproofing.
Styrofoam for insulation.

Then, a geotextile is laid along the bottom of the trench, the edges of the canvas are wrapped up. Then you need to pour the gravel of the corresponding fraction and the corresponding slopes are formed. A layer of gravel is again poured over the pipes, which is covered with geotextiles with overlapping edges.

If a country house is located on a site with abundant underground water, drainage of the basement slab is necessary. It is installed before pouring the foundation. In this case, the water collectors are installed in a horizontal plane and connected to the perimeter stormwater circuit.

Combined drainage systems of a country house

It is logical that it is irrational to build taps from various branches of the system for each circuit. Therefore, the taps are arranged in common, in one collector.

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The combination of individual drainage schemes is carried out in collector wells, while docking is allowed at any height of the collector, depending on the type of circuit, which are:

surface, for storm sewer schemes around a country house;
shallow contours of the drainage system under the surface of the site at a depth of up to half a meter;
deep drainages for groundwater drainage in abundantly watered areas of a country house.

Any of the listed types can be combined into a common system with a common drive.

Do-it-yourself storm sewer in a private house

Before proceeding with the purchase of materials for the drainage system, you should make sure that it is necessary. It is important to know the level groundwater during the peak period of their accumulation.

This can be done in the spring, immediately after the snow melts, and during the autumn rains. For clarification, exploratory drilling is carried out for water to a depth of three or four meters.

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The presence or absence of nearby groundwater is determined by the water content in the composition of the soil from the pits. Based on the results of the study of samples, a decision is made on the need for deep drainage for a country house.

An important indicator is the water level in the water intakes closest to the site - wells or wells.

Having decided on the need for a drainage system, it is advisable to perform a geo-survey of the site in order to determine the slopes on it, and hence the direction of the flow.

This is especially true for shallow and deep contours. Surface tray systems for a country house can be made according to the building level.

Designing a drainage system for a country house

This is the most milestone creating a drain from the site. It allows you to reliably calculate the value and composition of material costs for the purchase of components:

Types, quantities and sizes of pipes for drainage.
The need for connecting parts - fittings.
Types of drainage channels according to their depth.
The number and type of trays for surface stormwater.
Storage capacity.
Dimensions of pipes for the manufacture of inspection and drainage channels.
Calculate the need for building materials, including the amount and fraction of gravel, the footage of the geotextile.

If a simple draft design of the drainage sewage system of a country house is being carried out on its own, then in this case it must be shown to a specialist in this field of designing the ASG. If necessary, make appropriate changes to it and only after that proceed with the purchase of the necessary materials.

Depth of the underground part of the system

The closer to the surface is drainage pipe, the more actively it absorbs the moisture accumulated on the surface. The depth of penetration can be from 15 centimeters.

But if the pipe is located on the cultivated area, then you need to take into account the depth of digging up the earth, which can be up to 30 centimeters. Shallow gutters, being at the indicated depths, thaw quite quickly and remove water from the site, preventing its significant accumulations.

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As for buried collectors for storm sewers of a country house, operating on the groundwater horizon, this indicator depends from the depth of soil freezing. Below this zone, the drainage system actively removes water throughout the year.

Slope of underground communication

It is worth paying close attention to this indicator. The fact is that when the slope of 3 millimeters per meter of pipeline is exceeded, the nature of the flow changes. The water in the storm drain is doubtful to be considered clean.

As a result of exceeding the flow rate, the polluting components do not have time to completely drain along with the liquid and partially remain in the pipe. Gradually, the amount of precipitation increases, leading to blockage.

It is possible to remove such a dense layer from the storm sewer of a country house only with a jet of water under pressure.

The basis for the installation of drainage is gravel bedding. Its formation should be given special attention. Qualitative measurements when installing a drain can be made with a laser or an elongated building level.

The minimum slope for storm water is 0.3-0.5 centimeters per meter of pipeline, the maximum is no more than 4-5.

Installation of a storm water inlet

The decisive indicators for evaluating the selected storm water inlet are the volume of liquid that it can pass through itself at the time of maximum rainfall. Therefore, the determining indicator in this case is data on the amount of moisture falling in a particular area. For this, special maps have been developed.

The rapid removal of water through the storm sewer of a country house not only allows free movement around the site, but also protects the foundation from the damaging effects of moisture.

A hole corresponding to the size of the device is torn off at the installation site. Its depth should be more than the vertical size of the product by about 30-40 centimeters.
Arrange gravel filling of the substrate, spill the layer with water and carefully tamp, providing a gap between the body and the filling up to 5-6 centimeters for concreting.
The distance between the side walls of the recess and the body should be at least 3-4 centimeters.
Connect the water intake pipes to the storm water inlet and install it in its permanent location. In this case, it is necessary to set it in height so that the grate is at the level of the blind area around the house.
Concrete the body of the storm water inlet, install internal partition and a filter insert, if provided by the design.

Stormwater in a private house is mounted at the final stage of its installation for the entire site and is connected either to storage tank, or to a discharge device into the municipal sewer system or off site.

Starting such a responsible operation as installing a storm sewer in country house, you need to carefully study all the regulations and rules and choose the right materials for installation.

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When installing storm sewers, SNiP is used under the number 2.04.03-85, which regulates the requirements for the installation of external sewer networks. In this case, it is necessary to observe both the sequence of actions and the technical requirements for materials and work.

Properly arranged precipitation drainage has advantages for private houses, especially when good project and quality assembly. main function storm system It consists in protecting the foundation of the house and its walls, as well as basements from external natural influences.

Stormwater will protect the yard and building site from dirt, puddles and excessive waterlogging of the soil, which contributes to poor plant growth.

You can design the drainage of rain or melt water yourself, but it is still better to entrust it to a specialist who will professionally approach the installation, select the necessary components, and carry out the work quickly and efficiently. The sewerage scheme will need to be drawn up, according to the climate and conditions on the ground.

Varieties of storm sewers for a private house

Sediment drainage systems are represented by a network of pipes and receivers that perform the following functional actions:

accumulation of liquid with the help of storm water inlets and pallets;
collection and removal of fluid outside the site or into a collector with deep drainage;
purification of water from inclusions solids in the form of sand and soil particles.

In the private sector, the following types of storm sewers are found in the form of systems:

Open. Includes open gutters that collect water on the surface. Easy to DIY.
Closed. Such a complex option requires clear planning and calculations, it will be better if it is done by experts in their field.
Mixed. This option is chosen to reduce the financial costs associated with construction.

A storm drain can enter a part of a community-wide ditch, exit into a nearby ravine, a reservoir, or go directly to a collector that will filter into the soil.

All stormwater systems are of two types:

point;
linear.

In the first type, the storm water inlet is made under the drain, and the funnel that collects water has a filter mesh and a basket inside to collect litter.

In the linear type, underground channels are located in shallow trenches, and collect natural moisture in open trays with gratings along the entire line, containing sand traps.

IMPORTANT! The linear system, unlike the point system, collects precipitation not only from the roof, but also from the adjacent territory (paths, platforms, surfaces with paving slabs). This type covers a large service area. Which type of stormwater to choose - a person must choose for himself, depending on financial capabilities and taking into account the fact that each house has its own scheme, depending on the building design, location, size of the site and terrain.

What is a storm drain made of?

Standard wastewater components are combined into a common interacting system with linear and precise technological characteristics. Stormwater drainage is a complex device and channels, consisting of:

Storm water inlets that collect all types of precipitation. These are funnels, pallets, trays, gutters.
Point or line pipe systems that conduct sediment to filtration devices (collectors) and then to discharge points.
Inspection inspection wells (exercise control over storm water) with hatches. They clean up the system.
Filters in the form of sand traps that collect solid particles and protect the network from clogging.
Grates with large holes through which water escapes (aluminum, steel, cast iron) - are rectangular and square.

The entire system of channels and devices is sent to the collector wells, then distributed at the place of unloading. Laying stormwater in the ground uses a pipe system. In trenches and ditches on the surface, trays and gutters are built in, made of plastic, asbestos or concrete.

Drainage is installed on the roof. Rain inlets are always located under the pipes. At the top, trays and pallets are always covered with bars.

When starting the installation of a rain sewer system, it is necessary to schematically draw up the location of the channels, and only then carry out the work.

IMPORTANT! In order to ensure the natural movement of sediments through the catchment system to the place of filtering and unloading, the components of the sewer system must be laid with an inclination towards these systems.

Selection of pipe diameter

The stormwater device involves the use of high-quality pipes. Polyethylene, plastic or propylene pipes are best suited for these purposes.

Polyethylene are considered the best in cost and because of quality characteristics- smoothness of the walls, which will not accumulate on the walls the remains of water and bacteria. Besides, this product it passes liquid well and is considered durable.

Plastic pipes are corrugated, made under high and low pressure. They are well and quickly assembled using fittings.

In addition to the above, you can use pipe products made of metal (withstand heavy loads, especially along roads), fiberglass and asbestos cement.

The pipe system transports the sludge from the receivers to the disposal site.

The diameter of the choice of pipes for stormwater depends on climatic conditions, power and saturation of natural precipitation, as well as the structure of the system (its branching and area). The smallest diameter is considered to be a figure of 150 mm, with a slope level of more than 3 cm for each m of tubing.

The diameter calculation is calculated independently or with the help of the services of professionals. To do this, they find out the average amount of regional precipitation, calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe land and the correction factor, which depends on the surrounding soil (coverage). For example, with an adjacent paved area, the coefficient will be 0.95, concrete - 0.85, engraved or sandy - 0.4.

The volume of water (Q) is calculated by the formula: Q = q20 ∙ F ∙ φ. As soon as the formula shows how much precipitation the pipe must cope with, then they begin to determine its diametrical volume. To do this, use the Lukin technical table.

For a medium-sized personal plot, the most suitable diameter would be 100-110 mm.

IMPORTANT! In order for the rainwater sewer to serve for a long time, you need to choose the right pipes, calculating their diameter so that they can cope with the large flow of the incoming water volume.

Storm sewer installation characteristics: depth, slope

The depth of the rain channel depends on technical requirements of your region. You can find out about the standards in any public or private construction company or from those who built a storm drain in the neighborhood. AT middle lane RF precipitation is removed at a depth of 0.3 m with a diameter of pipes and trays not more than 50 cm. With large diameters of tubular products, they are allowed to be deepened by 0.7 m.

Installation work should proceed as follows:

Prepare trenches with a pillow of sand at the bottom, 20 cm high and sloping towards the collecting well.
Pipes are laid in trenches, which are connected with fittings and hermetically fixed.
Storm water inlets are installed at a shallow depth, so elbows are used to connect them to other components of the system.
Confirm the correctness of the previous actions and the functioning of the system. To do this, a bucket of water is poured into the storm water inlet, and they make sure that it does not leak. If the water leaves without problems, then the pipes can be covered with gravel, and then with soil (or just used earth).
It is allowed to make a storm well plastic by installing a hatch over it (made of metal, plastic, rubber). The rings are dug in so that the upper edge of the lid is 20 cm below the ground. Under the hatch of brick or concrete, you will need to make a neck, and it is allowed to break the lawn from above.

Stormwater slope rates (according to GOST) are represented by the slope parameter of pipes with a cross section of 150 mm - 0.008 per meter. With a product diameter of 200 mm, the slope should be 0.007 mm / m. Such data may vary and depend on the type of soil. But the maximum slope angle at the junction of the storm water inlet and the channel is 0.02 m / m, and this contributes to best speed outflow of precipitation. The system is built thanks to minimal slopes so that the water speed decreases in front of the sand trap, which allows suspended inclusions to settle in a timely manner and not clog the channel.

IMPORTANT! With self improvement own house in the form of a rain system, it is advisable to get acquainted with the requirements of SNiP (document number - 2.04.03-85).

Installation of the roof part of the rain sewer

The water drainage system on the roof is fixed along the bevels of the gutters, where precipitation flows down through funnels and pipes.

The collection of precipitation in systems with funnels is arranged at the points of contact and junction of slopes. In the ceilings of the building, holes are made for storm water inlets to install them, hermetically securing them with bituminous mastic at the point of contact.

Then pipes for the drain are mounted, risers, which will then need to be attached to the building with construction clamps.

The system of the roof part of the rain catchment area includes:

gutters, its external and internal corners;
plug and connectors;
hooks, funnels (including catchment);
bends of pipes, drains;
pipes - drainage and connecting;
tees (fittings) pipes;
brackets (for brick or wood).

After roofing installation put trays and build a linear storm drain. To do this, they dig trenches and carry out land work.

Laying the underground part of the storm drain

Installation for laying rain sewer lines is identical to the installation of external sewers.

They dig trenches at a given depth and compact them well, removing plant roots and other debris. Then a sand cushion is formed according to accepted standards.

They form a large pit in the form of a pit for the collector (plastic). The collector well can be made independently using formwork and concrete pouring.

Channels of devices for collecting water and cleaning them must be brought at an angle. Inlet levels to the manifold must be below the flumes or tubing coming from the sediment receiver. Pipes are connected to each other with fittings.

If the rainwater drainage system is more than 10 m, then the construction of manholes is necessary. Sand traps are placed in the docking area, and their connections are sealed. The owner of the house in the future will be able to clean the sand traps and monitor the operation of the entire system.

When installing a storm water inlet, it must be poured with concrete and a heavy load placed for two days to protect the product from extrusion.

It is desirable to arrange collectors and wells higher level seasonal freezing (in comparison with the recommendations of GOST, place them lower). They can be insulated with geological textiles and a layer of fine gravel, which are thermal insulation materials. Do not forget about the sand pillow.

After checking the operation of the rainwater drainage, the trench is filled up, and the components in the form of gutters, trays and pallets are equipped with gratings.

IMPORTANT! If the storm drain is done together with the drainage system, then it is laid above the drainage.

Before building a storm sewer system, it is necessary to make all necessary calculations and draw a diagram. This will protect you from unnecessary financial expenses and help you acquire all the necessary components for the project. If there is little rainfall in the region, storm water can be collected in barrels and used to water the garden.

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