How to install a heating battery yourself. Features of the installation of heating radiators. The main stages of self-installation of heating batteries

In order to take on self-installation(replacement) of heating radiators, it is necessary:

have time and desire;
know how to connect batteries;
learn the rules for proper connection;
produce accurate calculations and measurements;
have the necessary tools.

We skip the first point, because if there is a desire, nothing is impossible. Plus, a good practical experience can come in handy more than once. Let's move on to the next one.

Methods for wiring radiators

Lateral one-way connection. This type of connection is the most common. It consists in attaching the inlet pipe to the upper branch pipe, and the outlet pipe to the lower one. This method of connection provides the greatest heat transfer. If hot water is supplied from below, the supply pipe is connected to the lower branch pipe, the power is reduced by 5-7%. If a one-sided side connection is used when installing multi-section radiators, and the last sections do not warm up enough, an extension water flow is additionally installed.
Bottom connection. This type of battery wiring is used in cases where heating pipes are hidden in the floor or under the baseboard. This is the most acceptable connection method, from an aesthetic point of view. Both pipes (supply and return) are located below and are directed vertically into the floor.
Diagonal connection it is rational to apply in relation to multi-section radiators (from 12 sections and more). The principle of piping is that the hot water supply pipe is connected to the upper pipe on one side of the battery, and the return pipe is led out through the lower pipe on the reverse side.

At serial connection the coolant moves under the action of pressure inside the heating system. To remove excess air, a Mayevsky crane is installed on the radiators. The disadvantage of such a connection: replacing the radiator, repairing it or emergency situation require a complete shutdown of the heating system, which is not very convenient to produce in the cold season.
Installation of radiators for parallel connection provides for such a wiring in which the coolant enters through a heat pipe built into the heating system. The withdrawal is carried out in the same way. Installed cranes at the inlet and outlet allow the radiator to be replaced without shutting down common system heating. The disadvantage of this connection is that the radiators do not warm up enough at low pressure in the system.

We connect correctly!

It doesn’t matter if you are going to install bimetallic, aluminum or cast iron batteries, general rules settings apply to all types. To ensure normal heat transfer and the movement of warm air, the established distance must be observed, namely:

For normal circulation of heated air, which has a positive effect on the heat transfer of the heat source, it is necessary to ensure a distance of 5-10 centimeters from the upper grille to the window sill.
There should be a gap of 8-12 cm between the lower surface of the heating battery and the floor.
The distance between the radiator and the wall is 2-5 cm. If you plan to install reflective thermal insulation on the wall, the standard fasteners may be short. In such cases, buy hooks-clamps of a slightly longer length.

Calculation of the required number of radiator sections

The initial information for the calculation can be found when buying batteries. But you can use the old and good rule: one section can heat 2 square meters area with a ceiling height of 2.7 m. When calculating, they round up. Naturally warm up corner apartment panel house and an insulated cottage - two big differences, so the calculation of the required number of sections should be done individually, starting from specifications radiators and specific conditions.

Tool for installing or replacing radiators

The required set of tools includes: a screwdriver, pliers, a building level, a tape measure, a pencil, a wrench for tightening pipes, an impact drill. To install the sections you will need special key, so we recommend ordering the collection and connection of sections directly in the store. When installing bimetallic radiators with your own hands, do not use emery or a file to clean the surfaces to be joined.

Procedure for replacing radiators

dismantling the old battery;
markings for attaching a new one;
installation of brackets and a canopy of the radiator;
assembly of the mounting kit, installation of a tap and a valve for a thermal head, a Mayevsky tap;
connection of heating pipes.

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Discussion:

Sergei said:

Mr (Ms) Ann!!! It is necessary for you not just to flip through textbooks on heat engineering! And you need to start with a natural history textbook primary school, which says that when heated, liquids and gases rise up, and when cooled, they fall down. Hot coolant can enter the lower corner of the radiator and exit from the lower corner of the opposite side. And hot water will definitely go up. The main condition is the absence airlock. To eliminate it, Mayevsky's satellite is installed.

Elena said:

hello, I have a problem after replacing the heating throughout the house, bimetal radiators were installed instead of cast-iron batteries. which do not heat, I can not find the reason. I live in an apartment building two-story house, riser from the supply from the second floor, one for two rooms. wound up with a pipe with a cross section of 20, then it goes to 15mm -20 cm, then the first battery goes, then 1.5 meters of a pipe with a cross section of 15 mm goes through the first battery and the second battery, which crashes into the return line. The first (10 sections) is heated only top part. The second (12 sections) barely warm upper part. This year, the second one was looped back and the first one became even worse, please tell me, we have been freezing for two years already. there is no air in the battery, the dirt has also been removed and washed.

The device or reconstruction of the heating system involves the installation or replacement heating appliances. The good news is that if you wish, you can do it yourself without involving specialists. How the installation of heating radiators should take place, where and how to locate them, what is needed for the work - all this is in the article.

What is needed for installation

Installation of heating radiators of any type requires devices and Supplies. Kit necessary materials almost the same, but for cast-iron batteries, for example, the plugs are large, and the Mayevsky tap is not installed, but, somewhere at the highest point of the system, an automatic air vent is installed. But the installation of aluminum and bimetallic heating radiators is absolutely the same.

Steel panel ones also have some differences, but only in terms of hanging - brackets are included with them, and on the back panel there are special shackles cast from metal, with which the heater clings to the hooks of the brackets.

Mayevsky crane or automatic air vent

This is small device to bleed air that may have accumulated in the radiator. It is placed on a free upper outlet (collector). Must be on every heater when installing aluminum and bimetallic radiators. The size of this device is much smaller than the diameter of the manifold, so another adapter is required, but Mayevsky taps usually come with adapters, you just need to know the diameter of the manifold (connecting dimensions).

In addition to the Mayevsky tap, there are also automatic air vents. They can also be placed on radiators, but they are slightly larger and for some reason are only available in a brass or nickel-plated case. Not in white enamel. In general, the picture is unattractive and, although they deflate automatically, they are rarely installed.

Stub

There are four outlets for the radiator with lateral connection. Two of them are occupied by the supply and return pipelines, on the third they put a Mayevsky crane. The fourth entrance is closed with a plug. It, like most modern batteries, is most often painted with white enamel and does not spoil the appearance at all.

Shut-off valves

You will need two more ball valves or shut-off valves with the ability to adjust. They are placed on each battery at the input and output. If these are ordinary ball valves, they are needed so that, if necessary, you can turn off the radiator and remove it (emergency repair, replacement during heating season). In this case, even if something happened to the radiator, you will cut it off, and the rest of the system will work. The advantage of this solution is the low price of ball valves, the minus is the impossibility of adjusting heat transfer.

Almost the same tasks, but with the ability to change the intensity of the coolant flow, are performed by shut-off control valves. They are more expensive, but they also allow you to adjust the heat transfer (make it smaller), and they look better outwardly, they are available in straight and angular versions, so the strapping itself is more accurate.

If desired, it is possible at the coolant supply after ball valve put in a thermostat. This is a relatively small device that allows you to change the heat output of the heater. If the radiator does not heat well, they cannot be installed - it will be even worse, since they can only reduce the flow. There are different temperature controllers for batteries - automatic electronic, but more often they use the simplest - mechanical.

Related materials and tools

You will also need hooks or brackets for hanging on the walls. Their number depends on the size of the batteries:

if the sections are not more than 8 or the length of the radiator is not more than 1.2 m, two attachment points from above and one from below are sufficient;
for every next 50 cm or 5-6 sections, add one fastener at the top and bottom.

Takde need a fum tape or linen winding, plumbing paste to seal the joints. You will also need a drill with drills, a level (a level is better, but a regular bubble one is also suitable), a certain number of dowels. You will also need equipment for connecting pipes and fittings, but it depends on the type of pipes. That's all.

Where and how to place

Traditionally, heating radiators are installed under the window. This is necessary in order for the rising warm air cut off the cold from the window. In order to prevent the glass from sweating, the width of the heater must be at least 70-75% of the width of the window. It needs to be installed:

How to install

Now about how to hang the radiator. It is highly desirable that the wall behind the radiator be flat - it is easier to work this way. The middle of the opening is marked on the wall, a horizontal line is drawn 10-12 cm below the window sill line. This is the line along which the upper edge of the heater is leveled. The brackets must be installed so that the upper edge coincides with the drawn line, that is, it is horizontal. This arrangement is suitable for heating systems with forced circulation(if there is a pump) or for apartments. For systems with natural circulation make a slight slope - 1-1.5% - along the coolant. You can’t do more - there will be stagnation.

wall mount

This must be taken into account when mounting hooks or brackets for heating radiators. Hooks are installed like dowels - a hole of a suitable diameter is drilled in the wall, a plastic dowel is installed in it, and the hook is screwed into it. The distance from the wall to the heater is easily adjusted by screwing and unscrewing the hook body.

Hooks for cast iron batteries are different thicker. This is fasteners for aluminum and bimetallic

When installing hooks for heating radiators, please note that the main load falls on the top fasteners. The lower one serves only for fixing in a given position relative to the wall and it is installed 1-1.5 cm lower than the lower collector. Otherwise, you simply will not be able to hang the radiator.

When installing the brackets, they are applied to the wall in the place where they will be mounted. To do this, first attach the battery to the installation site, look where the bracket will “fit”, mark the place on the wall. After putting the battery, you can attach the bracket to the wall and mark the location of the fasteners on it. In these places, holes are drilled, dowels are inserted, the bracket is screwed onto the screws. Having installed all the fasteners, the heater is hung on them.

Floor fixing

Not all walls can hold even light aluminum batteries. If the walls are made of or sheathed with plasterboard, it is required floor installation. Some types of cast-iron and steel radiators come with legs right away, but they are not suitable for everyone. appearance or characteristics.

Floor installation of radiators from aluminum and bimetallic is possible. There are special brackets for them. They are attached to the floor, then a heater is installed, the lower collector is fixed with an arc on the installed legs. There are similar legs adjustable height, is with fixed. The method of fastening to the floor is standard - on nails or dowels, depending on the material.

Heating radiator piping options

Installation of heating radiators involves their connection to pipelines. There are three main connection methods:

saddle;
unilateral;
diagonal.

If you install radiators with a bottom connection, you have no choice. Each manufacturer strictly ties the supply and return, and its recommendations must be strictly followed, because otherwise you simply won’t get heat. With a side connection, there are more options ().

Binding with one-way connection

One-way connection is most often used in apartments. It can be two-pipe or one-pipe (the most common option). Metal pipes are still used in apartments, so we will consider the option of tying the radiator with steel pipes on the spurs. In addition to pipes of a suitable diameter, two ball valves, two tees and two drives are needed - parts with external thread at both ends.

All this is connected as shown in the photo. With a single-pipe system, a bypass is required - it allows you to turn off the radiator without stopping or lowering the system. You can’t put a tap on the bypass - you will block the movement of the coolant along the riser with it, which is unlikely to please the neighbors and, most likely, you will fall under a fine.

All threaded connections are sealed with fum-tape or linen winding, on top of which packing paste is applied. When screwing the tap into the radiator manifold, a lot of winding is not required. Too much of it can lead to the appearance of microcracks and subsequent destruction. This is true for almost all types of heating appliances, except for cast iron. When installing all the rest, please, without fanaticism.

If you have the skills / ability to use welding, you can weld the bypass. This is what the piping of radiators in apartments usually looks like.

With a two-pipe system, a bypass is not needed. The supply is connected to the upper entrance, the return is connected to the lower one, taps, of course, are needed.

With lower wiring (pipes are laid along the floor), this type of connection is made very rarely - it turns out inconvenient and ugly, in this case it is much better to use a diagonal connection.

Binding with diagonal connection

Installation of heating radiators with a diagonal connection is the most best option in terms of heat transfer. She is the highest in this case. With a lower wiring, this type of connection is implemented easily (example in the photo) - supply from one side at the top, return from the other at the bottom.

A single pipe system with vertical risers (in apartments) does not look so good, but people put up with it because of the higher efficiency.

Please note that with a one-pipe system, a bypass is again required.

Strapping with saddle connection

With lower wiring or hidden pipes, installing heating radiators in this way is the most convenient and most inconspicuous.

With saddle connection and bottom single-pipe wiring, there are two options - with and without bypass. Without a bypass, the taps are still installed, if necessary, you can remove the radiator, and install a temporary jumper between the taps - a drive (a piece of pipe of the desired length with threads at the ends).

With vertical wiring (risers in high-rise buildings), this type of connection can be seen infrequently - too large heat losses (12-15%).

Video tutorials on installing heating radiators

Installing heating batteries with your own hands is a completely feasible operation at home. By replacing the heaters with newer ones, it is possible to achieve better heating of the premises. The efficiency of the entire heating system depends on the quality of the batteries.

In this article, we will look at how to properly install radiators in your home quickly and reliably.

What is needed for the production of works

In order to independently install heating devices with our own hands, we need:

Assemble a set of tools;
Make measurements and calculations;
Study the possibilities and rules of connection;
Have the will and the time.

If you have the desire, then nothing will be impossible for you. If you have experience of similar works, then it will be useful to you.

Heating wiring options

The scheme for installing heating batteries can be as follows:

Diagonal. In most cases, it is used when connecting multi-section heating devices. hallmark is the pipeline connection. So the supply is connected to the upper futorka on one side of the radiator, and the return is connected to the lower futorka on the other side. When serial connection the coolant moves under the pressure of the heating system. Mayevsky cranes are installed to remove air. The disadvantage of such a system is revealed when it is necessary to repair the battery, since the installation of batteries central heating in this way does not imply the possibility of removing the batteries without shutting down the system;
Lower. This type of wiring is used when the pipelines are in the floor or under the plinth. This method is the most acceptable in terms of aesthetics. The return and supply pipes are located at the bottom and are directed vertically to the floor;

Lateral one-sided. This is the most common type of connection; if you wish, you can find many photos and videos about it on the Internet. The essence of this type is to connect the supply pipe to the upper futorka, and the return pipe to the lower one. It should be noted that such a connection gives maximum heat transfer. If you connect the pipelines the other way around, then the power will drop by ten percent. The rules for installing radiators state that in case of poor heating of sections in multi-section radiators, an extension of the water flow must be installed.
Parallel. The connection in this case is carried out through a pipeline that is connected to the supply riser. The coolant leaves through a pipeline connected to the return. Valves installed before and after the radiator make possible repair and removing the battery without interfering with the operation of the system. The disadvantage is the need for high pressure in the system, since circulation is poor at low pressure. How to install a heating battery in this way, more experienced installers will be able to help you.

Correct connection

The rules for installing heating batteries are the same for all types heating elements, whether cast iron, bimetal or aluminum radiators.

To ensure normal air circulation and heat transfer, strict adherence to permissible distances is required:

For the necessary circulation air masses you need to make a distance of about five to ten centimeters from the top of the radiator to the window sill;
The gap between the bottom of the battery and flooring must be at least ten centimeters;
The distance between the wall and the heater must be at least two centimeters and not more than five. In the event that the wall will be equipped with reflective thermal insulation, then the standard brackets will be short. To install the battery, you need to buy special fasteners of the desired length.

Counting radiator sections

Before installing radiators, you need to determine the required number of sections. You can find out this information when buying in a store or take note of the rule: with a room height of no more than 2.7 meters, one section can heat two meters square area. When calculating, rounding is done up.

Of course, heating an insulated cottage or a corner room in a panel house is a different task. Therefore, you must understand that section counting is individual process, which is based on the characteristics of the room and heating elements, and the price of heating appliances in these two cases will be different.

Tool for the job

Do-it-yourself installation of a heating battery is possible with the necessary tools.

The set of tools consists of:

Impact drill;
A set of keys;
Pencil;
Roulettes;
Building level;
pliers;
Screwdriver.

Important! Do not use a file or emery to clean the surfaces to be bonded. This may result in poor sealing.

Installing the battery

You can install the heating battery by following the steps below:

If old heaters are being replaced with new ones, then at the beginning it is necessary to dismantle the old ones. To do this, you need to drain the water from the heating system, if you live in an apartment building, then you need to contact the ZhEK;
Marking is carried out for mounting new radiators;
A bracket is installed and a battery with a regulator is hung. After installing the bracket, make sure that it is securely fastened and can support the weight of the battery, to do this, press on it with all your weight;
Installation of valves and connection of heating pipelines. When installing shut-off valves, pay maximum attention to ensure that the threaded connections are reliable.

Conclusion

We hope that after reading this article you have received the necessary set of knowledge and now you understand how to properly install a heating battery in your home. By following the rules and tips given in this article, you will make the installation process safe and of high quality.

Installation of heating batteries

Types of radiators

Structurally, all heating radiators are similar, but the essential difference is in the material from which they are made. There are the following types of heating batteries:

bimetallic,
steel,
cast iron,
aluminum.

Aluminum are distinguished by good heat dissipation and relative lightness, so it makes sense to install them in houses with wooden walls. Their disadvantage is susceptibility to water pressure drops in the system and its chemical composition.

Cast iron are deprived of these disadvantages, however, their large weight imposes some restrictions. In addition, they are distinguished by a long period of operation (about 50 years).

The remaining two types are considered a compromise between cast iron and aluminum radiators. They have a relatively small mass and good performance characteristics.

For private houses, if you have your own well, it is possible to install heating radiators of any type, but bimetallic ones will be the most convenient in installation.

Site selection and preparation for installation

To install heating batteries, craftsmen from housing departments or specialized companies are usually involved, but this operation can also be done by hand. When implementing installation work it is necessary to take into account the location of the radiator relative to the window and the floor, its heat transfer depends on it.

Installation of heating radiators should take place exactly in the middle of the window, the deviation from the center should not exceed 2 cm. Its width should be proportional to the width of the window sill and be 50-75% of its size.

It is equally important to observe the distance between the floor and the heating device. It should not be more than 12 cm. At the same time, the gap between top point batteries and the lower edge of the window sill should not be less than 5 cm. And between the wall and the radiator - in the range of 2-5 cm.

If the radiator is installed in own house, then it should be taken into account that it must be preceded by preparatory work:

overlapping water;
draining water from dismantled parts of the heating system;
pressure testing of pipes (purification of liquid compressed air);
dismantling the replacement radiator.

Radiator connection diagrams

Do-it-yourself installation of radiators requires a properly selected connection diagram. It depends on the location of the inlet and outlet holes for the coolant in it. In total, there are three schemes for connecting radiators:

cross (heat loss 2%);
lower (12-13%);
single-pipe (19-20% loss), also called "Leningrad".

The choice of connection scheme depends on the type of heating: one-pipe or two-pipe. The first option is most common in apartment buildings. The principle of such a scheme is that the incoming and cooled coolant move along the same circuit. With a two-pipe system, the cooled coolant moves for subsequent heating through a separate pipe.

In private houses with a two-pipe heating system, the lower radiator connection scheme is considered the most popular - it is characterized by relative ease of installation and low heat loss.

Features of connecting and mounting radiators

When installing radiators with your own hands, it is impossible to avoid certain difficulties. But you can minimize them by following the instructions and guidance provided by our experts.

Aluminum radiators

The installation of aluminum heating batteries requires assembling the sections together by screwing in a plug with gaskets and radiator plugs, and then mounting the Mayevsky faucet and thermostatic valves. An aluminum radiator is installed on special brackets, previously fixed to the wall.

Cast iron radiators

Fundamentally, the installation of cast iron batteries is not much different from aluminum batteries, but it is necessary to take into account the weight of the radiator and the strength of the wall. This is especially true for multi-section cast-iron radiators, their weight can exceed 100 kg.

in wooden or dilapidated houses with fragile walls, it is more expedient to install cast iron not on brackets, but on special mounting legs; they can be sold separately or together with a battery. It is also desirable to use additional props.

To increase heat transfer, the batteries are installed at an inclination of about 5 degrees. It is recommended to make a slope in such a way that air accumulates at the valve, that is, this angle should be set a little higher. Before installation, it is necessary to unscrew the cast-iron radiators in order to check the tightness of the connection of the nipples between connecting pipes sections.

Bimetal radiator despite enough high price, is in high demand. Such popularity of batteries of this type is explained by their high strength and immunity to the chemical composition of the coolant. But they also have some nuances during installation. Installation is recommended to be carried out in a protective factory film, which will prevent mechanical damage.

Wall mounting is done with brackets. Due to its lightness, the radiator can be fixed both on the main concrete wall, and on drywall construction. In the first case, the brackets are mounted to the wall with dowels and cement mortar, and in the second - by means of double-sided mounting fittings.

When installing aluminum and bimetallic radiators, it is imperative to provide for the installation of a valve (Mayevsky) to bleed air. It should be located at the top of the bimetallic battery. It can be either mechanical or automatic. Each model contains it in the configuration, or its installation is provided in the design.

When installing, it is better to use an automatic valve, as it allows you to remove the air accumulated in the battery without human intervention, thereby extending the life of the device.

Outcome

Regardless of the type of radiator, do-it-yourself installation must take place in strict accordance with the attached instructions. Having drawn up a clear action plan, having calculated the installation site and using our advice, you can easily install the heating battery yourself. If you decide to entrust the work to a specialist, then thanks to the information received, you will be able to control the process and participate in the preparation of the plan, which will help to avoid problems and shortcomings later.

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators video

Provide comfortable indoor air temperature various systems heating. The vast majority of heating concepts are based on special heat transfer devices, commonly called batteries. You can install them yourself if you know the nuances of the work.

We have collected and systematized for you all the information about the options and methods of connection. Taking into account our recommendations, the installation of heating batteries with your own hands will be carried out without the slightest difficulty. All readers of the article presented by us will cope with it without problems.

Detailed description of connection options and technologies added visual diagrams, photo collections, video instructions.

To understand what battery designs are needed, initial knowledge about the modes and operating conditions of heating devices will help.

Below is a summary of information on the important parameters of heating systems when choosing batteries:

1. Internal pressure. The value required for the competent choice of a device that can withstand pressure in the heating circuit:

Private house (autonomous) = 1.5-2 atm.
Private house (centralized) = 2-4 atm.
5-storey building (centralized and autonomous) = 2-4 atm.
9-storey building (centralized and autonomous) = 5-7 atm.
House over 9 floors (autonomous) = 5-7 atm.
House over 9 floors (centralized) = 7-10 atm.

If a technical capabilities batteries are lower, there is a possibility of depressurization of the device with other negative consequences.

2. Permissible temperature heating. Characteristic indicating the upper temperature limit, above which the battery may fail:

Autonomous = up to 90⁰С.
Centralized with plastic wiring = up to 90⁰С.
Centralized with steel wiring = up to 95⁰С.

Exploitation in violation temperature regime leads to melting of the seals, deformation and loss of tightness of the device.

3. The degree of pollution of the coolant. A parameter that is mainly of interest to owners and water supply:

Autonomous private house = high, medium, low when installing filters.
Autonomous high-rise building= high, medium, low when filter system is installed.
Centralized = low, in rare cases medium.

Water supplied by centralized networks to municipal heating systems undergoes complex treatment. The content of sand and clay suspension in water extracted from private wells, wells, open sources may exceed the allowable limit.

The choice of heating devices must be oriented to the upcoming operating conditions. It is necessary to find out the characteristics of the heating circuit

Traditional Battery Locations

For further selection of battery designs, it is required to determine the points . They are placed in places of greatest penetration of cold. This is done to minimize the effect of drafts on the microclimate of the premises. They also focus on ensuring availability for the purpose of periodic maintenance.

Bottom-mounted batteries create thermal curtain in rooms with panoramic windows e.g. on verandas

Battery areas:

Window niches. The most common location for heating appliances.
Extended interwindow spaces. One of the popular options.
Corners and "blind" walls corner rooms. It is used to enhance the heating of rooms with increased heat loss due to the intense effects of winds.
Bathrooms, pantries, bathrooms, one or two sides of which are combined with a main load-bearing wall.
Unheated entrances, hallways of private houses.
Apartment corridors of the first floors of high-rise buildings.

Modern designs of heating appliances fit under balcony door or entrance to the loggia.

An example of the location of heating radiators in one house:

Image Gallery

Design specifics of heating devices

Structurally, batteries are divided into groups, these are radiators, convectors and registers.

Overview of popular heating appliances

The radiator is the most common type. This is a heating device consisting of vertical separate compartments-sections. In classic collapsible products, sections are independent work items. They join in required quantity using threaded internal connections. This assembly scheme gives the batteries versatility.

Before installation, it is possible to complete the heating radiator, it is required in accordance with the required heat output. According to the calculations, the number of sections of prefabricated batteries is selected. Horizontal cavities of radiators obtained by connecting sections are called collectors. Upper and lower.

Modern technologies have mastered the manufacture of less versatile, but more reliable non-separable radiators using welding and one-piece casting methods. They do not have joints and seals, typical for collapsible radiators. Design for every taste.

A convector is a one-piece heating device made of a tubular or cavity heat exchanger with rows of heat-removing fins. Convectors are available in the following versions:

Wall.
Floor (duct)
Plinth.

The register is a non-separable heating device made of straight smooth horizontal pipes arranged and combined in a certain way.

Details about the types of radiators

Radiators differ in the material used for their manufacture.

Within the same variety, there may be different design solutions sometimes unexpectedly original

The market for heating appliances can offer:

Cast iron radiators. Ancestors of batteries of this group. Relatively inexpensive. Maintain each of the modes of operation. They serve up to 50 years. The main disadvantage is that they are heavy, which, however, helps to retain heat for a long time when the heating is turned off.
Steel radiators. These batteries are made from steel pipes. They work in any conditions, but are less durable than cast-iron counterparts. They have low heat dissipation.
Aluminum radiators. Made of lightweight aesthetic material, these batteries give off heat best of all. They are resistant to all operating temperatures, but are afraid of water hammer. Aluminum is very demanding on the quality of the coolant.
Bimetallic radiators. Steel innards clad in aluminum - that says it all. The main characteristics, like steel, heat transfer - almost like aluminum. Price - bites.
Copper radiators. These are “eternal” heat emitters for any premises. Their only and most significant disadvantage is their ultra-high cost.
plastic radiators. Innovation in the family of radiators. While they are suitable only for systems autonomous heating private houses with a coolant heated to no more than 80⁰С.

The most sensitive to operating conditions. These radiators reliably serve only 15 years. Their use is possible only in autonomous heating systems.

Outwardly popular models of radiators from different materials similar:

Image Gallery

Characteristics of the convector variety

Convectors are significantly inferior in heat transfer to radiators, but in some cases they successfully complement or replace them:

1. Wall mounted convectors. Batteries in this design are usually made of steel, so they are cheap. They are unstable to water hammer, and their use in centralized heating systems is undesirable.

Convectors designed like panels look like closed radiators, very nice, fit perfectly into the interiors of any plan.

But made in the form of pipes bristling with plates - such batteries are suitable only for installation in utility rooms.

2. Floor convectors (channel). An excellent solution for creating a thermal curtain at the doors of a balcony or loggia. Made of durable corrosion-resistant materials, they are unpretentious to the requirements of operation.

3. Plinth convectors. Able to work in all conditions and modes, these batteries are the best suited for creating a microclimate where all other heaters will look bulky.

The plinth type is appropriate in bathrooms and storerooms adjacent to cold street walls and unheated porches.

Brief description of heating registers

Once the batteries of this group were made handicraft using conventional welding. Registers can be used in any heating systems, but due to their unsightly appearance, they are used mainly in auxiliary premises: garages, storerooms, basements. Sometimes they can be seen in the entrances of old high-rise buildings.

Modern manufacturers have "laid eyes" on this group of heating devices.

Shiny chrome-plated metal registers can decorate the design renovation of any living space.

Calculation of thermal power of batteries

The stage of preliminary selection of batteries is over, you can proceed to the calculation of the thermal power required from them. The calculations are based on a relative power of 100 W for heating 1 m² of a reference room.

The full formula includes many correction factors and looks like this:

Q = (100 x S) x R x K x U x T x H x W x G x X x Y x Z,

S= area of the heated room, where:

R- additional parameter for rooms oriented to the east or north = 1.1;

K– correction for presence external walls in the room:

one = 1.0;
two = 1.2;
three = 1.3;
four = 1.4;

U- coefficient of insulation of street walls:

low = 1.27 (without insulation);
average = 1.0 (plaster, surface thermal insulation);
high \u003d 0.85 (insulation made according to special calculations);

T- weather indicator of the period of lowest temperatures in ⁰С:

up to -10 = 0.7;
up to -15 = 0.9;
up to -20 = 1.0;
up to -25 = 1.1;
up to -35 = 1.3;
below -35 = 1.5;

H- ceiling height index in meters:

up to 2.7 = 1.0;
up to 3 = 1.05;
up to 3.5 = 1.1;
up to 4 = 1.15;

W- characteristics of the room located on the floor above:

unheated and uninsulated = 1.0 ( cold attic);
unheated, but insulated = 0.9 (attic with insulated roof);
heated = 0.8.

G– window quality level:

serial wooden frames = 1,27;
frames with double-glazed windows = 1.0;
frames with double glazing = 0.85;

X– area ratio window openings to the area of the room:

up to 0.1 = 0.8;
up to 0.2 = 0.9;
up to 0.3 = 1.0;
up to 0.4 = 1.1;
up to 0.5 = 1.2;

Y- the value of the openness of the surface of the batteries:

fully open = 0.9;
covered with a window sill = 1.0;
obscured by the horizontal protrusion of the wall = 1.07;
covered with a window sill and a front casing = 1.12;
blocked from all sides = 1.2;

Z– battery connection efficiency (1.0 ÷ 1.13; see the section below for details).

The calculated value must be multiplied by a conditional coefficient of 1.15. It will provide some heat reserve for the possibility of more precise adjustment of devices for operation in low-temperature mode.

Efficient ways to connect

Before continuing to study how to choose, install and other heating devices, it is necessary to consider two main types of piping existing systems heating. They differ in the principles of organizing the supply of coolant to the batteries and returning it to the system.

In practice, the pipe supplying heat is referred to as the "supply". The pipe that returns the coolant is the "return". The vertical distribution pipe (supply or return) is called the "riser".

In single-pipe heating systems, the coolant is supplied unevenly. It will enter the devices farthest from the boiler, having already cooled down somewhat. Therefore, single-pipe circuits have length restrictions

Traditional wiring options:

Single pipe. The wiring is arranged in such a way that one pipe plays the role of supply and return. Batteries "crash" into it sequentially. The coolant bypasses the heating devices in the order of their connection.
Two-pipe. In a two-pipe wiring, one pipe is the supply, the other is the return. With this option, battery heaters are connected simultaneously to both pipes, parallel to each other. The coolant circulates through all batteries simultaneously.

Coefficient "Z" in the formula for calculating heat output depends on the connection options for heating devices.

The most widely used connection methods in practice:

Method number 1. Diagonally. Z = 1.0.

This connection order is the most effective, especially if the heating system is not working well. The coolant enters the battery from one side from the top, passes through the entire internal cavity and exits from the bottom on the other side.

Thermal energy is transferred to the entire surface of the heater. For radiators longer than 12 sections, this method is highly recommended.

Method number 2. On the side (top - entrance, bottom - exit). Z = 1.03.

Until recently - the most common method of connecting batteries. It is convenient during installation due to the short length of the connections.

For radiators up to 12 sections, it is almost as good as a diagonal connection method in terms of heat transfer. But this is fine operating systems heating. If the systems operate sluggishly, the hot coolant will not reach the final radiator compartments.

Method number 3. Bottom on both sides. Z = 1.13.

Despite the least efficiency, this connection method quickly took root in new construction, thanks to plastic pipes. The wiring of heating systems are mounted in the floor, and do not overshadow the design of the premises. With properly configured heating systems, all parts of the batteries receive uniform heating.

When choosing ways to connect batteries, you need to proceed from their design features and aspirations for maximum efficiency use

The final stage of battery selection

The final selection stage is based on the obtained results of the required power from the heating devices.
Ready-made one-piece designs of radiators, convectors or registers are selected at the time of purchase.

From the factory passports of products, data on their thermal power are visible. When purchasing batteries, the features of the installation sites (for example, the possible dimensions of the device) are taken into account.

Non-separable radiators and registers with individual parameters are manufactured by specialized organizations to order. Collapsible radiators should be looked at by the number of sections, based on their total thermal power.

Approximate individual power of standard 500 mm sections from different materials (Watt with a coolant of 70⁰С):

Cast iron = 160;
Steel tubular = 85;
Aluminum = 200;
Bimetallic = 180.

The power of collapsible radiators is regulated by attaching additional or disconnecting excess sections.
When choosing batteries various designs for one room, it is more correct to start their selection with non-separable products.

It is also suggested to install between the battery and outer wall heat shield. For its manufacture, you can pay attention to modern heat-reflecting materials isospan, penofol, alufom.

An air vent is a small device that is built into the part of the battery where air can accumulate. For collapsible radiators, this is a threaded hole in the end of the upper manifold, opposite to the supply pipe

When fixing heating devices in place, their deviation from the horizontal level is not allowed. It is allowed to raise the side with an air vent up to 1 cm for better collection and release of air.

When connecting heaters to systems with risers, the centers of the battery inlets must not be higher than the centers of the outlets from the supply pipes. If, when connecting to risers, it is supposed to equip thermal units with taps or temperature control devices, in single-pipe heating systems it is additionally necessary if they are not available.

The bypass is a jumper in parallel with the battery connection. This element allows you to organize the control of the heater. It is a piece of pipe connecting the inlet and outlet of the battery. The diameter of the jumper pipe must be one standard size smaller than that of the riser pipe. In two-pipe heating systems, the installation of bypasses is not required.

Due to the widely differing coefficients of expansion of materials, it is not recommended to connect batteries with plastic piping to steel pipe wiring. Conversely, the main plastic wiring eliminates the transition to steel connection parts.

Until the installation is completed, it is advisable not to remove the packaging shell from steel, aluminum and bimetallic batteries in order to avoid mechanical damage.

Preparing collapsible radiators for installation

If the purchased collapsible batteries do not have the calculated parameters, they should be modified by disconnecting the extra sections or adding to the desired amount. Between themselves, the radiator compartments are pulled together with the help of plumbing nipples through round sealing gaskets.

Nipple - a short thick-walled tube with an external thread. Half right, half left. Inside the tube, along the entire length, there are two opposite longitudinal technological protrusions.

The radiator wrench can be replaced with a chisel of a suitable length, with a sting width sufficient to securely hook the protrusions of the nipple. The role of the wrench will be played by an adjustable pipe wrench.
The design of the collapsible radiator has a left-hand thread.

For the correct perception of the direction of rotation, it is recommended to unscrew or tighten the nipples by inserting a key or a chisel into the holes of the sections where the thread is right-handed. To avoid distortion of parts, the holes must be alternated through a turn or two of the tool.

Fixing collapsible radiators in place

Collapsible radiators are hung on special brackets. The most reliable are arc-shaped hooks built into the main walls of the premises. In this case, the following distances must be provided:

From the floor = 6-12 cm, sufficient for cleaning and heating the bottom of the wall,
at least 7 cm to the window sill to ensure effective convection,
from the heat-reflecting screen or from the wall = 3-5 cm.

Brackets are mounted in such a way as to fall into the intersection space of radiators. According to an unwritten rule, when hanging batteries, end caps with a right-hand thread should be on the right, with a left-hand thread - on the left.

Hook markings are done in the following order:

A vertical line of the axial center of the radiator is drawn (when installing the battery under the window, most often this is also its center) with a length not less than the height of the battery.
The distance between the gaps of the first-second section of the radiator and the last-penultimate one is measured.
A horizontal line is drawn corresponding to the center of the upper radiator manifold, with a length of at least the measured distance (taking into account general advice above).
The distance itself is plotted right-left on a drawn horizontal line symmetrically with respect to the axial center line. The resulting two points are the places for the upper hooks. They will support the weight of the structure.
From the point of intersection of the horizontal lines and the axial center, a distance equal to the center-to-center distance of the collectors is laid vertically downwards (standard is 500 mm).
A horizontal line is drawn through the intended point, corresponding to the center of the lower radiator manifold.
The distance measured in paragraph 2 is plotted to the right and left on the drawn horizontal line symmetrically with respect to the axial center line. The resulting two points are places for the lower hooks. They will ensure the immobility of the structure.
At the marked points, holes are drilled for dowels, into which threaded brackets are wrapped or hooks with smooth rods are hammered.

The drilling process is described for cast iron and bimetal radiators with no more than 10 sections, and aluminum radiators consisting of no more than 12 sections. At larger size batteries in the center area above and below should be added along the hook.

Fixing in place non-collapsible views

Brackets for installing non-separable radiators are usually included in the product kit. The sequence of marking the mounting points of the brackets for hanging these batteries is described in the attached mounting diagram. The procedure resembles that painted for collapsible radiators.

The choice of brackets for fixing convectors is varied. It is due to the location of the heater.

Brackets convectors are held on the walls, fixed on the floor, suspended from below to the window sills

By analogy with collapsible radiators, they are hung on arcuate hooks fixed to the walls. The total number of brackets is standardly four (two - hold the top tube, two - the bottom). For light registers, it is possible to use holders for pipes of the appropriate diameter with clamps.

The required number of brackets is selected depending on the dimensions of the radiator

Connecting batteries to heating systems

In connection work, it is advisable to use a torque tool. The necessary tightening forces are specified in the passports of the purchased heaters. To create tightness threaded connections you need fluoroplastic sealing material, shortly called "FUM tape", and sanitary flax.

If the connections of the batteries with the wiring of the heating system are carried out with a plastic eyeliner, you will additionally need:

Welding machine for polypropylene parts.
Or a crimping tool for metal-plastic pipes.

When deciding to control the heating of the batteries, taps or thermostatic devices are purchased. Some prefabricated structures immediately equipped with built-in thermostats.

The required number of pipes for the supply, the complete set of connecting parts (fittings) depend on the options for connecting to the heating system and are found out after the batteries are fixed in place. Connection methods "diagonally", "from the side" or "from below on both sides" are determined at the stage of calculating the thermal power of the installed ones.

One of the options for assembling and installing a non-separable radiator. The preliminary stage is the purchase of the device itself and valves.

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