6916 0 0

Shiny styling bathroom tiles from a brilliant specialist

August 18, 2016
Specialization: master of internal and outdoor decoration(plaster, putty, tile, drywall, lining, laminate and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, repairs in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all necessary types works.

To begin with, laying tiles in the bathroom with your own hands is a rather complicated and multi-stage matter, many other works are interconnected with this, without which the decoration loses its meaning. There is a certain order of installation, but different masters it may vary slightly, as not all tilers can be plumbers and electricians.

I will not be modest - I confess, for example, I do all these works myself and will be happy to share my brilliant achievements with you. The video in this article will also come in handy for a better understanding of the process.

Bathroom tiling

Preparatory work

In general, preparation includes several types of work, but I will not break them down into points, since in any case they are performed simultaneously. That is, if you work with an assistant, then at each stage you will both be busy with your specific business.

The technology of laying tiles in the bathroom does not necessarily mean dismantling old plaster. In some cases, the tile is placed on the GKLV or on the GVLV, which implies a frame finish.

Therefore, the old layer, if well kept, can remain intact. However, if you have to do this, then:

• it is most convenient to knock down the old layer with a puncher with a chisel, if you put it on impact mode (badge with a hammer), this is especially good for strong cement-sand plasters;
• but, as a rule, there are exceptions to the rule - it happens that the layer is very weak (the builders once sold cement according to their own needs) and it literally flies off in layers - in this case, the puncher is useless there;
• in addition to the perforator, tools such as an ax, crowbar, bush hammers or a chisel with a hammer are also used. And although manual dismantling is harder, it still takes place;

• cement-sand mortar was not applied to concrete slabs and ceilings - lime mixtures were usually used there, which can be removed with a spatula;
• just here on top photo you see the dismantling with an old Soviet spatula - there is a thick and solid metal. Nowadays, thin and flexible steel spatulas are produced, therefore, for convenience and efficiency, it is better to shorten the blade to 3-4 cm;
• in the same way, with a spatula, you can remove old wallpaper, only you have to wet it first;
• after dismantling the plaster, you need to clean the surface well with a broom or brush, and for brickwork, you need to deepen the jointing by at least 5-10 mm to hook the layer;
• but, as you understand, such a process will take too much time and therefore modern masters(including me) prefer to open the wall with a gloss with a paint primer - this creates good adhesion;
• but if you do not have masonry, but concrete slabs, then the paint primer will turn the surface into glass, to which no plaster will stick. In such cases, Betonokontakt should be used.

Alternatively, if there is no "Betonokontakt" (its price is much higher than the primer) on concrete slab can be applied thin layer tile adhesive with a comb with teeth no more than 5 mm. After the glue dries, the cement-sand mortar fits perfectly on it.

If the work is carried out in an apartment building, then you are still waiting for the dismantling of the outlet or the replacement of the riser:

So, we have prepared a site, and now I would like to decide where to start finishing work. But they are still, alas, far away! First you need to dilute and hide the sewer with water supply.

I will not talk in detail about the installation of these pipelines, and the layout of the premises is different for everyone - I will explain how to do it correctly in principle. And you should start with.

But since all pipes usually pass side by side, in the case of plaster, a common strobe is made for them. And where necessary, such a groove is made separately.

Table of required slopes

When laying the sewer, it is necessary to observe certain slopes - they are indicated in the table, but it is not always possible to lay it in a strobe. However, the slope requirements do not change.

If the pipeline is mounted directly on top of the floor or wall, then it is hidden in a box, which is made from GVL or GKL. Most often, this situation occurs in apartment buildings where the riser runs either in a niche or directly along the wall.

Sewerage is assembled like this children's constructor: each pipe is inserted into the socket of the other pipe and fixed with a rubber sealing ring. For bathrooms, you will set the sequence yourself, especially in the private sector.

But the toilet in 99% of cases will be located at the riser or outlet to the street. If there is a difficulty with this, then you should not take it “by force” - just lubricate rubber compressor any liquid detergent, and it will easily give in to you.

The principle of fixing pipes: brown the wall is indicated, gray - strobe, red - pipes, white - suspensions, cross - screws

Hot and cold plumbing is now usually made from polypropylene. The material is welded using various fittings (tees, corners, American women, etc.).

To fix pipes in strobes, it is most convenient to use perforated metal tape hangers (initially they were intended for mounting frames under drywall constructions). The pipes are simply pressed into the groove and then plastered - this is very convenient and quite reliable.

Before installing beacons under plaster, you should take care of the wiring. They can be of two types - under lighting and under household electrical appliances and sockets.

So, if for lighting you will have enough copper with a cross section of 1-1.5 mm2, then for washing machine machine or electric boiler you will need 2-2.5 mm2. The same section will be needed for sockets (do not count on the fact that there will be no load).

All wiring must go to the electric meter through the AZU. Just do not install these machines in the bathroom - they should be taken out, and best of all, mounted under the counter.

lighthouse plaster

If you are waiting independent work, then you will also need to choose the beacons yourself. Them optimal parameters 3000mm or 4000mm long and 6mm to 20mm thick (from sole to top of comb).

Of course, the thicker the profile, the stiffer it is, but I prefer 6 mm beacons - they are much easier to level, and they take up less space (you don’t need to greatly increase the thickness of the layer on the ledges of the wall). The length should be selected according to the height of the room or according to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe floor (ceiling) - depending on where you will mount them.

If more than two profiles need to be installed on a wall (floor, ceiling) in one gap, then it is very important to align them so that they represent a flat virtual plane. You can achieve this in the following way:

• two extreme profiles are set according to the level and on top of them (the distance to the crest is 0.5-1 mm);
• nylon threads are stretched horizontally and diagonally, along which the rest of the beacons are already exposed.

The principle of installing a frame for drywall is exactly the same.

The distance between the beacons directly depends on your plastering tool. So, if your rule has one and a half meters, then the step can be no more than 130-135 cm, if two meters, then no more than 170-175 cm, and so on.

The profile is fixed on a cement-sand mortar - some do it pointwise, but I prefer to mount the beacons as shown in the top photo - on a solid track.

1. Firstly, this way the profile will hold better.
2. Secondly, it's easier to level it.

After installing beacons plastering work you can start only the next day - the fasteners of the profiles should grab. If you are in a hurry, then you will knock down the beacons as a rule while tightening the solution.

Plaster work is carried out as follows:

• a solution is thrown between two beacons at a height of about a meter;
• tighten it with the rule from the bottom up;
• then remove the cut mixture from the tool;
• throw the formed holes and pull again.

Such passages should be made until smooth surface, but their number largely depends on how well you sifted the sand (pebbles turn the surface).

Grouting methods: a - in a circle, b - in a straight line

The next day or 4-5 hours after plastering the wall (floor), you need to wipe the surface. Some miracle masters do not do this, but in this case, the convenience of laying tiles is lost.

This process occurs with the help of a moistened grater or half a grater. And if any pits are formed, then you can pick up what has crumbled from the floor, moisten it and rub it into the unevenness. You can start laying the tiles the very next day, despite the fact that the period of complete drying is three weeks.

The lighthouse screed is carried out in the same way only in a different plane, so there is nothing special for me to add here. Only now you can walk on the screed and finish it with tile tiles with your own hands only on the fourth or fifth day, and even more reliably, in a week.

Frame for the formation of a false wall: 1 - wooden slats; 2 - water pipes; 3 — sewer riser; 4 - water meter

If there are niches in the room or pipes are located on the walls, then you will have to mount a false wall (a frame made of 50 × 50 mm rails, as in the upper diagram) or a box of metal profiles in combination with CD-UD or CW-UW.

For some reason, many people think that it is better to lay tiles on GVL or on GVLV (moisture-resistant gypsum-fiber board), I was convinced that this is not so! Such material, although increased strength, but GKLV ( drywall sheet moisture resistant) will be enough here.

If you have to close the water meter or valves, then do not forget that you need to make an access hatch. Therefore, in this place you need to strengthen the frame, as in the upper image.

Laying tiles

Since you most likely want to lay tiles in the bathroom evenly and eventually get a shiny surface, then the tile itself, quite naturally, should also be even. And this should be checked when buying it directly in the store.

You can do this like this - press two tiles facing each other and if there is a gap between them (in the center or on the edge), then this is a defective product. After laying it, it will be very noticeable on the plane of the surface of the wall, floor or ceiling.

To obtain a high-quality plane, the tile should also be checked for the coincidence of the diagonals. Only now two tiles attached to each other are placed end to end on the table, and if one corner is at least a millimeter higher than the other, then this will affect the evenness of the seam, no matter how smoothly you try to veneer the surface.

Of course, if these errors are small, then after laying the tiles, a small defect will be covered with grout. But considering that each of us has our own needs, and we achieve the perfect shine from work, I think it's not worth the risk.

Depending on the size, color and geometric shape(square or rectangle), tiles can be laid in different ways. For example, in such ways as shown in the diagrams above.

But be that as it may, I note that the wall will look much more beautiful if the top row turns out to be whole (not cropped). In addition, on the wall, floor or ceiling, you need to install pieces of the same width along the edges, therefore, you will have to make preliminary measurements and calculations.

Installation of tiles on the wall is best to start from the second row, the first is laid after the floor has been laid. It turns out that the wall row of tiles overlaps the floor, so no gaps or irregularities are visible.

In order to start laying from the second row, you will need a stop, although experienced craftsmen do without it. But if you are still a beginner, then it is best to use one of the drywall profiles for this.

They are perfectly even and you will be able to tile directly on top of it without hesitation. In addition, do not forget about the hatch for the water meter and valves - it is best if it just falls on the whole tile, as in the bottom photo.

You can install a plastic door on the hatch, but you can also install a removable tile that will be held on magnets (they are sold in stores and are designed specifically for this purpose).

The magnets themselves are installed between the tile and drywall, and metal plates are glued to the door (tile) with silicone - they must exactly match the position of the magnets in position. If desired, a furniture handle can be screwed onto a removable tile, although this is not at all necessary.

Some craftsmen prefer to spread glue on the wall and lay the tile on the prepared surface - that's right. For laying, a comb trowel with teeth 10 mm long is used and the layer after pressing will be no more than 6-7 mm, although if necessary it can be compressed up to 2 mm.

Apply adhesive to tiles

For exposure even seam plastic crosses are used, the most popular thickness of which is 3 mm. To adjust the distance (this is necessary when the diagonals are knocked down), the cross can be inserted with the very tip, turned flat (so it will turn out thinner) or placed with an edge (so it is thicker).

Mounted tiles should be constantly checked with a level vertically and horizontally, and a level or rule should be applied to the plane in order to level the finish. The next day, you should pull out all the crosses and wipe the surface and seams from the glue until it is completely dry. After the composition has solidified, this will be very difficult to do.

To cut the tiles, you will need a tile cutter, the tool is shown in the top photo. They are electric, and the cut line can be made not only at an angle of 90⁰, but also at an angle to one side or the other. But if you are not a professional finisher, then electrical fixture you don't need it - a hand cutter is enough.

Sealing corners is an equally important process to achieve shiny surface in every way

In order to close up external or internal corners, you can buy special plastic tile corners in the store. In this case, they need to be selected according to the thickness of the tile. If you did not do this during installation, then you can do it after, and for this, buy ordinary plastic corners with a 5 mm shelf and seat them on the silicone.

And now let's figure out when the installation of the bath is done - before or after tiling. The question is logical, but you can do it in any order.

Personally, I measure the height and length of the bathtub and leave this place empty, as in the top photo, only at the same time I also fasten the CD profile to the wall so that the bathtub rests on it with a side (it’s more reliable). It turns out that the sides of the bathroom are inserted under the tiles, the joint is sealed with grout, and water never enters the interior.

But around the bath you can lay out brickwork and cover it with tiles. You can also buy a special plastic screen with rail doors.

If you choose the first option for finishing the bath, be sure to leave the hatch so that you can get to the siphon if necessary. On the hatch, you can install a plastic door or a removable tile with magnets.

The grout is made with a soft rubber spatula. After you have processed approx. square meter, go over the seam with your bare finger. What for? Thus, the seam will turn out to be slightly recessed, and most importantly, even.

Wipe the surface of the grout in this way every 20-30 minutes until it dries. Remember, the dried mixture is very difficult to remove, besides, this can damage the glaze of the tile, and it will no longer shine!

Conclusion

When drawing up a pattern, you can use two-color options, a frieze, special inserts with a pattern ... yes, as your soul desires! Finally, one more brilliant tip - do not install plumbing on a damp surface so that the tile does not burst.

Would you like to discuss an article? Post questions, suggestions or wishes in the comments!

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

The traditional finish of a sanitary room is a tile, since this material is ideal for use in a humid environment. Laying tiles with high quality and reliability can good professional, but his services are expensive, so many are interested in how to lay tiles in the bathroom with their own hands. Doing it yourself is not so easy, but it is quite possible if you follow the basic rules for laying tiles in the bathroom. Consider the sequence of laying tiles on the wall and floor, as well as the rules for choosing materials.

Before learning the steps on how to properly tile in the bathroom, you need to calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls and floor in order to find out how much tile, glue and other materials will be needed. Quantity regular tiles calculated by square meters, and decorative - by the piece or running meters. Since you will be laying the tiles for yourself, you can also choose the shape, colors, patterns and shape at your own discretion.

However, there are five main parameters that you should pay attention to when choosing:

1. Resistance to influence of the damp environment. According to this parameter, there are four classes of tiles (I, II, III, IV). For a bathroom and a bathroom, class Ia, IIa, Ib or IIb is best suited. The letters indicate the way the tiles are produced: a - extrusion, b - pressing.
2. Strength. There are five wear resistance classes: the first is the lowest, the fifth is the highest. Since the load on the ceramic coating in the bathroom is not too high, you can choose class 2 for walls and class 4 for the floor.
3. The size. There is a wide variety of tile sizes. It should be borne in mind that the smaller the dimensions, the longer it takes to lay tiles in the bathroom with your own hands, and the more difficult it is to make the surface of the wall or floor even. At the same time, it is better not to install large-sized tiles yourself, since it is very easy to damage it, but it costs much more. Ideal for laying tiles in the bathroom with your own hands, medium-sized tiles are suitable - 40 × 60 cm for walls and 60 × 60 cm for floor covering.
4. Surface roughness. Smooth tiles are easier to clean, but they are very slippery. Therefore, laying tiles in the bathroom on the floor involves the choice of rough tiles so as not to fall if you step on its surface with wet feet. And smooth tiles are quite suitable for walls.
5. Pattern and color. Of course, it is easier to lay plain tiles in the bathroom with your own hands, but such a coating looks very boring. Therefore, if you are laying tiles in the bathroom for the first time, then you can choose a tile without patterns, with discreet small patterns, but for a change, you can put a few tiles with decor or contrasting to the main color scheme.

When studying the procedure for laying tiles in the bathroom yourself, it is worth considering that this is usually a small room. Therefore, interior design experts do not recommend putting tiles in the bathroom too bright shade, since the flashy color visually "eats" the space.

In this case, it is necessary to take a small margin, since during transportation, storage or even during cutting and installation of tiles with ceramic coated, some materials may be damaged.

Layout methods

Before proceeding with the installation of the finish, you need to decide how to lay out the tiles on the floor or on the walls in the bathroom. To do this, you can choose one of the ways to lay out the tiles, the choice of which is influenced by the type of material, the dimensions of the room and construction skills. Correct technique the layout of the laid tiles is able to visually hide the lack of space, increase the size of the room.

So, there are several ways to lay tiles in the bathroom:

• direct method. Such laying of tiles in the bathroom, due to its simplicity, is the most popular. Even a beginner can easily handle it. The main thing is to follow the order of work, namely, where to start laying;

• diagonal is one of the most difficult ways that a person with experience in laying tiles can handle. This layout is ideal for a small, square room with slanting or curved walls;

• chess - this technology is classic version decorating wall and floor coverings diagonally or straight. It involves laying tiles in two colors, usually black and white color. Ideal for a square room;

• with offset - this method allows you to create a beautiful and original pattern. The technology involves the installation of each row with an offset relative to the previous one, without connecting the joints to each other. But only a professional can cope with such a layout, a beginner will make a lot of mistakes. This method is best suited for a rectangular room.

It should be noted that if the room low ceilings, then it is better to choose a tile rectangular shape and the technology of laying tiles in a straight line is applied. So, the ways of laying tiles are different, which one to choose is up to you, taking into account the parameters of the room.

Necessary materials and tools

Apart from the ceramic tiles, you will need the following materials and a set of tools:

• adhesive must be opted for quality mixture so that the material that will be laid on it for a long time and firmly held;
• grout, needed for seams, while its color should match the created coating;
• container for preparing glue;
• notched trowel, necessary to ensure uniform distribution of glue over all elements, because of this, there will never be an excess or shortage of it;
• rags to remove excess glue
• grinder, tile cutter, and other tools used for cutting material;
• primer;
• building level;
• waterproofing;
• construction mixer;
• slats made of metal or wood;
• corundum bar for turning edges;
• if it is planned to make a threshold in the bathroom, then the desired element is bought;
• thanks to the crosses for tiles and their sizes, you can make smooth, uniform and beautiful seams.

Fixation of the laid tiles is carried out on adhesive base. Based on the type of tile used and the type of base, flexible, standard or special adhesive mixture. According to the instructions, the powdered composition must be diluted with water. As a result, the glue should not be very thick or very liquid. Using a notched trowel, the adhesive is applied to the surface.

In order to find out how much material is needed, it is necessary to calculate everything in advance. Thus, laying out the coating will be quite easy, during which there will be no problems or stops.

Substrate preparation for tiles

The main rule for installing tiles on the wall in the bathroom or on the floor is surface preparation. The base on which the tile will be installed must be even. The procedure for preparing walls and floors is as follows:

1. Using a small crowbar, hammer or chisel, remove the old coating.
2. Using a plumb line with a weight, it is necessary to check the evenness of the walls.
3. If this is necessary, with the help of moisture-resistant drywall or plaster, you need to level the walls.
4. Prime the surface using a compound for rooms with high level humidity.

Relative to the floor, its surface can be leveled using a laser or water level. If there are cracks, they must be repaired immediately. In case of detection of a slope, a hole, or other small defects, it is necessary to re-do cement-sand screed and put in advance a layer of waterproofing material.

Stages of the tiling process

Laying ceramic tiles in the bathroom can be done in two ways:

• starting from the floor;
• starting from the walls.

AT last version be sure to leave a gap for the floor covering.

Laying tiles should start from the wall opposite the front door.

In the event that the bathtub is installed close to the wall, laying must begin above the edge of the bathtub. In order to lay the tiles evenly and correctly, you must first draw a control line on one wall, and then along the entire perimeter. After that, slats are mounted on it, which must be screwed to the wall, thanks to them the tile will not slip.

In the event that the tiles must be laid behind the bathroom, they begin to be laid from the second row from the floor, skipping the first. How many rows are needed must be calculated in advance, while taking into account the width of the seams.

Before installing the tile, it is laid out along the walls. In the event that the last tile needs to be cut, the wall is divided in half and the first row is laid from the center line. In this situation, the finish will be more symmetrical.

After the corner is reached, the tile must be cut with a tile cutter. After that, the entire trim must be laid up to the ceiling on both sides of the wall. For proper compliance with the seams, crosses are installed between adjacent tiles.

The process is similar for all walls. Lastly, the bottom row is laid.

In order for the tiles to look good on the floor after installation, it is recommended to start laying them from the center of the room. But you need to remember that thin edges should not be laid along the walls, everything must be calculated in advance. During the installation of floor tiles, crosses are used large sizes than for walls.

Grouting and cleaning

The last step in creating the perfect bathroom is grouting and cleaning. After the tiles on the floor and walls are completely dry, it is necessary to remove the crosses and do the seams. To process them, grout is required. This mixture is intended not only to perform decorative functions, but also to protect the tile from moisture. The solution of this mixture should be made in small portions as needed.

When the seams are somewhat wider than usual, sand must be added to the grout. In addition, to make the mixture more elastic, latex can be added to it, but in this case the mixture is not diluted.

The grout is applied with a rubber spatula, brush or cloth, evenly distributing with a rubber trowel. This device must be held at an angle and pulled diagonally in order to completely fill the seams with putty. The mixture dries within a couple of minutes.

After the jointing is completed, they begin to deal with the surface. At this stage, you will need a foam sponge and warm water. To prevent abrasion of the grout, the tiles should not be washed parallel to the seams. After the surface is washed, it can be wiped with microfiber.

To protect against moisture, the joints are treated with a sealant. As a rule, this operation is performed 3-4 weeks after the installation of tiles.

How do experts lay tiles in the bathroom? What tools are needed here? And can a newbie take over? Let's figure it out!

a beautifully tiled bathtub can also be a work of art

Tools, materials

• Tile
• Primer
• Plastic crosses
• Two containers: for fugue and glue
• Level
• Nozzle - mixer
• Brush
• Perforator or drill
• notched trowel
• Rubber spatula

Preparatory work

Before learning how to lay tiles in the bathroom, let's clarify how to prepare the surface.

Most important rule any quality finishes is the complete removal of the old one.

That is, we dismantle the panels, old tile, wallpaper - everything that was "before" the repair. Some masters claim that they calmly lay the tiles in the bathroom on the old tiled floor. And such actions take place, however, even here you will have to work a little so that your tile does not “swell” in about six months.

Taking a puncher or a chisel with a hammer in your hands, walk along the glazed surface of the previous coating, you should remove it as much as possible. These actions will help you increase the adhesion between the adhesive solution and the coating, and a relatively good adhesion will be guaranteed.

Again: it is possible to carry out these manipulations with the floor, but with regard to the walls, the experts remain steadfast - the old tile will definitely need to be dismantled!

To the second stage preparatory work includes checking for the verticality of the walls, and for the horizontality of the floor.

If, when using the level, you realize that the differences on the floor exceed 1.5 cm, and on the walls - 1 cm, then you are forced to upset you - such surfaces need to be further leveled, then you can’t manage with a large imposition of mortar, as the tile will simply fall off.

So, if everything is fine, the walls, the floor are relatively even, then you can.

This operation is not mandatory, however, it is recommended, since the application of a primer with a brush increases the adhesion between the mortar and the surface.

So, while you are waiting for the time it takes for the primer to penetrate, you can pre-layout the tiles. This option is often ignored by beginners, but then when they lay the tiles in the bathroom, there is a lot of dissatisfaction - they have already laid the floor of the wall, and only now they realized that the drawing does not add up! Or the cut pieces of the tile just fall into the field of view of everyone who enters the room.

So, we lay the tiles correctly, and that is why, even before the start of direct laying, we figure out where the cut parts will go, where the whole ones.

A little tip from the experts: it is better to lay cut tiles in the corners furthest from the door, where they will not immediately catch your eye. But with regard to the walls - it is better to lay out whole tiles from the ceiling to the floor, that is, the cut tiles will be at your bottom along the perimeter of the room.

Now, having considered how professionals lay the tiles in the bathroom, we begin to prepare the adhesive solution.

Pour the mixture into a bucket, add water (using the proportion indicated on the package) and mix with a drill with a nozzle - a mixer at medium speed.

How to lay tiles in the bathroom

Before initially starting the work itself, we advise you to carefully consider the installation method that you will use, and for this you need to know a few basic design tricks:

• Direct masonry. The standard, classic type of finish, it is most recommended for beginners, but you are unlikely to achieve any effects with this masonry method;
• Diagonal styling. This option is recommended mainly for square rooms, as well as for those rooms whose walls could not be well aligned;
• checkerboard masonry. This type of installation (two contrasting colors tiles) will divert attention from a fairly uneven floor;
• Offset laying. The original way design, however, it is strongly not recommended for beginners to use it. However, if you still decide, then you need to pick up not special, small, but other tiles, the width of which will be equal to half the main one, then the process will go easier for you, but in this case the view will not be very good, you should take this into account immediately . But if you are a pro, you can even use rectangular tiles, however, the masters still advise that the ratio of length to width be “golden”, namely, 2 to 1;
• Mosaic. Highly beautiful option, but again - not for beginners, since it is with him that you will have to tinker for quite a long time.

Important! If the ceilings in the bathroom are low, then boldly choose straight masonry for walls with rectangular tiles laid along the length. This will visually create the effect of high ceilings.

Tile calculation

It is also important to correctly calculate the material you need. after all, if you buy too much - what to do with it then? You can’t return it to the store, you can’t put it on the balcony. The situation is no better and even worse when you didn’t buy it - then it begins to turn out that there is no such product in the store and is not expected, and you just needed a couple! That is why, approach the calculations with all seriousness.

With a meter, measure each wall in length and height, multiply - and get the area.

Important! For convenience, you make all measurements in meters, so that in the end you get a square meter, because tiles are sold per square meter.

Everything is much more complicated if you use a frieze - then you will need to calculate the area that the frieze occupies and subtract it from the total. Yes, and regarding the frieze itself - look at exactly how the pattern will be installed at the edges, perhaps, in order not to disturb the composition, you will have to cut the frieze somewhere and arrange several of them (in the corners, for example).

We lay tiles in the bathroom with our own hands

So, tiles are laid on the walls in the bathroom from a pre-installed beam. The beam must be installed at the height of the cut or whole tile, according to the calculation from the floor.

It is better to apply the adhesive solution directly to the walls, leveling it with a notched trowel. Now pick up the tile and apply it to the surface, pressing a little.

Immediately you need to check whether you are laying it evenly - for this, use the level. If some part sticks out a little, tap it gently with a rubber mallet, but if, on the contrary, part of the tile is “recessed”, then you need to remove it from the wall and re-shift it.

Thus, lay the tiles in the bathroom on the wall.

An important point - they put two or three rows, give the solution time to grab (the time is usually indicated on the package). It does not make sense to go higher yet, because if the mortar does not set, the entire masonry can simply collapse under gravity.

Regarding the floor, there are no such restrictions, as you understand, here we put tiles in the bathroom until we finish.

Important! To adjust the size of the seams, use plastic crosses, then the seams will be neat, and most importantly, the same.

And one more thing - after each laid tile, be sure to check with a level whether the tiles are in the same plane, whether it needs to be slightly trimmed.

In any bathroom, there is probably a toilet, a socket, and the bathroom itself, and in order for the finish to be harmonious, you need to carefully “go around” the obstacles:

• Socket. Attach the tile directly to the outlet, and for yourself, with a marker, throw a plan - or rather, mark the extra places. It is them, with the help of a tile cutter, that you will need to remove. Then the tile is re-applied to the outlet, and here you are already checking whether to leave it or modify it;
• Outlet pipe from the toilet. If only one tile “enters” this pipe, then this is an easy option. You just take a sheet of paper, cut to the size of the tile, and apply it to the place of its future installation. Fold the places that need to be removed, then cut the paper with scissors, and apply the resulting template to the tile and cut it off. if several tiles fall into this place, then you will have to carry out similar manipulations with each.

To additional work for laying tiles is an accompanying -, and desirable -.

For these questions, our website also has a number of interesting materials, from before applying the fugue, as well as cutting tiles with a tile cutter, grinder and even a glass cutter, so before you start work, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with them.

So, you now know how to lay the tiles in the bathroom, and that is why do not put off the matter indefinitely - get started! Everything will work out for you!

Today it is difficult to find a bathroom that does not have ceramic tiles. This method is convenient in all respects - it is created reliable protection premises in conditions high humidity and provide an aesthetically pleasing appearance. But at the same time, the quality of the material and the level of finishing work carried out are important.

How to properly tile in the bathroom, you will learn from this article.

Features of ceramic tiling

This material is the most versatile, can be used both for wall decoration and for flooring. The advantages of tiles are as follows:

• excellent moisture resistance - the ability to use in rooms with high humidity;
• increased strength;
• durability in operation right technology laying cladding will last more than a dozen years;
• ease of cleaning with the possibility of using a variety of detergents;
• a variety of choices in shape, size and color.

A significant disadvantage of this finishing method is high degree the complexity of the work and their cost.

However, there is an opportunity to save on finishing if you do all the work yourself, guided by competent instructions.

How to lay tiles

The consumption of materials depends on the chosen design of the bathroom, its shape and area. It is advisable to calculate the entire finishing area and increase the amount of material by 5-7%. The qualifications of the performer and the chosen method of carrying out the work also affect the final result.

There are several styling options!

Direct is the easiest approach. Here it is required to lay horizontally or vertically in a row. The seams of each subsequent row should clearly match the seams of the previous one. This method is most suitable for rectangular-type rooms; it is easy for a novice master to handle it.

Diagonal - its use is advisable if you choose square tiles and lay it out diagonally. This method allows you to visually align the bumps, but requires more skill.

Checkerboard - used in bathrooms square shape and requires laying tiles of two colors in a checkerboard pattern.

With offset. It is necessary to purchase a rectangular tile with an aspect ratio of 2 to 1. Laying is done by shifting each subsequent row to the side relative to the previous one.

Mosaic laying from individual ceramic elements small size.

Installation planning

If you are a responsible enough person, then the image of the plan with drawing on it the picture that you want to get in real performance will not hurt you. Such a plan will help you clearly imagine the feasibility of laying. decorative elements, determine the center of the walls and ceiling, plan the laying with symmetry and the exclusion of gaps, irregularities.

It is also advisable to prepare necessary tools and material. You will need:

• adhesive mixture in the required amount;
• water to dissolve the mixture;
• grout for filling joints.

From the tools you need to prepare:

• a container for diluting the solution and a drill with a mixer;
• spatula for laying the mixture on the surface;
• grinder, tile cutter, tongs and corundum bar for cutting and processing tiles;
• level and plastic crosses to control the position of the tile.

Surface preparation

Tiles are laid on a leveled and cleaned surface, which will improve the quality of fastening and durability of operation. Therefore, on initial stage should be completely removed old finish. Then the surface is cleaned of small debris, dirt and dust.

Checking how smooth the wall and floor are in the vertical and horizontal planes, respectively, is done using a level. If necessary, it is desirable to plaster the surface to give it greater alignment.

After the plastered surface has dried, it should be primed with an antifungal primer. deep penetration. After that, you can begin to perform the main finishing work.

Procedure for laying ceramic tiles

If you do not have much experience in finishing works, then you need to start with finishing those places that can be subsequently covered with interior items. Laying is carried out in the direction from the bottom up.

Even if you have clearly calculated the number of tiles in a row, you must attach the first row to the wall without adhesive mass. So you can evaluate the actual placement and formation of a gap at the end of the row.

If the gap is less than 2.5 cm, then the row must be slightly shifted. If it is larger and does not allow you to place a single tile, then you will have to cut and install only a part. It is recommended to place the cut tile at the very beginning of the row.

Coincidence should be avoided tile joints with joints on the base plates. Using a pencil or chalk, a mark is made on the placement of the first and last tile in a row. The level will allow you to draw a line along which the tile row will be placed.

The application of the adhesive mass on the wall is carried out in stages as the work is carried out. It is necessary to mark a plot of four tile sizes in height.

Glue is laid on the surface within the marked area, for which a notched trowel is used. The mixture is taken from the container and evenly applied to the wall or floor in an even layer. When preparing the adhesive solution, the consistency must be observed - it should not be too liquid or thick.

The tile is pressed against the surface with the applied adhesive. Excess solution will be mechanically squeezed out of its edges.

Excess glue must be quickly removed before it hardens. If dried areas appear, they can be removed with a plastic or wooden spatula.

After reliable fixation, the position of the tile is checked by a level. If there is a deviation along the vertical or horizontal, these violations must be promptly and carefully eliminated, avoiding displacement.

In order for the seams to be even, special plastic crosses are used.

When finishing areas with pipe outlets, windows or other elements that do not allow uniform tile laying, it is cut off with a grinder or tile cutter. And with tongs for breaking ceramics, a shape is given.

Features of grouting

At the final stage of finishing, when the glue has dried, crosses are removed from the seams and filled with grout. For application grout mixture use a rubber trowel.

If this tool is driven in a diagonal direction, the mixture enters the gaps, thereby forming the necessary hermetically sealed layer. If excess dried grout remains on the tile, you can remove it with a dampened sponge.

The tile in the bathroom provides not only a moisture-resistant protective finishing layer, but can also give the room an original look.

It is believed that the most popular material for finishing the bathroom is tile. Ceramic tile laying difficult process, but knowing some of the features, you can handle it without the help of a wizard. To get the perfect result, remember a few important points.

Laying tiles in the bathroom

First of all, you must decide on the direction of laying. There are a lot of masonry options: straight, diagonal, offset, mosaic. By applying this or that method, you can visually adjust the room, for example, make it more spacious or higher. Next, you need to calculate required amount material based on bathroom measurements. You need to buy with a margin of 5-10%. If you have not yet decided how to lay tiles in the bathroom, check out the features of each masonry method.

in straight rows

This is a simple and time-tested option. The tile should be laid so that it is reduced to even horizontal and vertical stripes. Start from the second row from the floor. First, draw a straight line along the perimeter of the room, along which you will fix the guides ( metal slats). At direct way bathroom installation will look prettier if you start from the middle of the wall, and not from the corners. The cut will not be as noticeable.

Diagonal tiling

This method will help to make the bathroom wider visually. Diagonal facing is much more difficult to perform. First, from the corner from which the laying will begin, you need to measure the segments, equal to the length tiles, and connect them. Figuratively speaking, it is necessary to draw an isosceles triangle. Then a diagonal is drawn from the center of the intended segment. The first whole tile is laid, then the rest. It is important that the side of each new element is strictly perpendicular to the drawn diagonal.

Offset

This type of finish is very original, reminiscent of brickwork. The tiles are arranged in horizontal rows. Each new element is indented by half or a third of the bottom one. The middle of the upper tiles will fall on the vertical seams of those below them. Be sure to follow the same thickness of the seams using crosses. You can tile the bathtub with a diagonal offset. It looks very nice.

What you need to lay tiles in the bathroom

You need to buy the following materials:

• tiles in sufficient quantity;
• tile moisture resistant glue;
• grout;
• moisture resistant primer;
• plastic crosses (choose the thickness at your discretion).

Make sure you have the following tools:

1. Tile cutter. Can be electric or manual. Some do not want to spend money on this device and prefer to use a grinder or diamond glass cutter.
2. Drill with a nozzle "mixer". With its help, an adhesive mixture is prepared.
3. Spatulas. You need a serrated, smooth and rubber.
4. Master OK.
5. Diamond crowns for round cuts.
6. Sponges.
7. Containers for water and preparation of glue.
8. Roulette, laser and ordinary levels, plumb line.
9. Pencil or marker for marking, rulers, building cord.

How to lay tiles on the wall

Gather everything you need for the repair. Before laying tiles in the bathroom, prepare the walls by following the instructions:

1. Using a plumb line, determine how flat the surface is.
2. Clean the walls of any old coating.
3. Using plaster, level the surface. Depending on the condition of the walls, one to several layers may be needed.
4. If the walls are completely crooked, level them with sheets of drywall. As a result, the area of ​​​​the room will be reduced.
5. When the walls are leveled and the plaster has dried, coat them with a primer to make the tiles stronger.

Before laying tiles in the bathroom, mark the walls and calculate using the following instructions:

1. Using a level, find the lowest point on the floor. Place a mark on the height of one tile. Using the level, make the same marks around the entire perimeter of the room, connect in a continuous line.
2. At the level marked before, nail a wooden plank or metallic profile.
3. Using a tape measure, determine the middle of the wall. From this point, lay out the tile to the right side, inserting crosses. If the last element does not fit, move the entire row to the left to the limit. Draw a vertical line across the leftmost tile. Mark each wall like this.

How to lay tiles in the bathroom:

1. The process always starts from the second horizontal row above the nailed plank.
2. Mix the moisture resistant adhesive according to the instructions on the package.
3. Apply a small amount of mortar to a notched trowel and spread over the area of ​​the wall where you start. Lean the tile against the wall, press it a little while moving it in different sides so that the adhesive mixture spreads evenly. If it cannot be applied to the wall, you can cover the tile with reverse side, both technologies are acceptable.
4. Lay the entire row gradually, inserting special crosses into the distance between the elements, which are responsible for the width of the seam. Use a level to make sure the tile lays flat both horizontally and vertically. As a rule, in the corners there will be not whole, but trimmed elements. Then you can move on to the next row. Periodically clean the seams from the glue.
5. When all the walls are lined, remove the bar and take care of the bottom row. Some pieces will also need to be cut.
6. When everything is ready, knead the grout as directed in the instructions.
7. rubber spatula rub it into the gaps. Treat them with a damp sponge, and after drying - with a dry rag.

Laying tiles in the bathroom with your own hands involves cutting it. This process needs to be considered in more detail:

1. For the procedure, you need a tile cutter or a quality glass cutter. If you are working last, then mark the piece you need. In one motion, make an incision along the tile according to the marked line. Put her up on the edge of the table front side. Press on both sides to crack the tile.
2. If you have a tile cutter, then simply lay the tile so that the line you draw matches the marks, make an incision and press the handle of the device to split the tile.
3. If you need to cut not a straight line, but a curved or arcuate one, then use a grinder. holes round shape drill under the pipes in the tile with special crowns.

How to lay tiles on the floor with your own hands

This process is less complicated than the previous one. Here step-by-step instruction how to lay tiles on the bathroom floor:

1. Clean the surface. To make it even, apply a self-leveling mortar or cement screed. When the composition dries, prime the surface.
2. Before putting floor tiles in the bathroom, it is necessary to make markings after leveling. Find the middle of each of the walls, put marks. Connect with perpendicular lines. So you divide the floor into four separate sectors. It is better to start from the center, but some prefer to lay from the door or from the most visible area of ​​​​the bathroom.
3. Apply a little glue to the floor area with a comb. First lay out a square of four tiles. Then lay out the longest row along one of the lines. Apply a level every two or three tiles to make sure there are no deviations.
4. Insert crosses into the gaps.
5. When all whole tile will be unfolded, trim.
6. So you figured out how to lay tiles in the bathroom on the floor. It remains only to pull out the crosses and wipe the seams.

Video: laying tiles in the bathroom