Is it possible to fasten shinglas with self-tapping screws. Bituminous tiles, installation and laying technology. Construction stapler with staples

AT foreign countries For many years, shingles have occupied a leading position among roofing materials used in the construction of private houses. It has only recently begun to gain popularity with us. This material can be used to cover pitched roofs of any configuration. This is due to the simplicity of its installation, low weight, durability and aesthetic appearance. Flexible tiles can be assembled by hand, but although this is a simple process, there are certain nuances and features that you need to familiarize yourself with before starting work.

Preparing the roof for the installation of shingles

Installation of flexible tiles can be carried out at a temperature environment more than 5 o C. This is due to the fact that in addition to metal fasteners, its elements are interconnected using a self-adhesive layer. At low temperatures this layer will not warm up enough, so the necessary adhesion and tightness of the coating cannot be obtained.

When the weather is cool outside, for gluing shingles only solar heat not enough, so you must additionally use a building hair dryer. In addition, at low temperatures, the flexibility of bituminous tiles decreases, it becomes more brittle and it can be quite difficult to give the sheets the desired shape.

Installation of the base for flexible tiles

Formation of the base under flexible tiles consists of several stages:

Mounting vapor barrier membrane. It is laid with a slight sag (2-4 cm) and with an overlap between the strips of at least 100 mm. At the junction, the canvases are glued with double-sided tape.
The vapor barrier membrane is mounted on the rafter logs from the side of the room and is laid without tension (a sag of 2–4 cm is allowed)
Thermal insulation laying. Plates or rolls of insulation are laid between the rafters so that they go there with a noticeable interference. To do this, the elements of the insulation layer are cut out 5-10 cm wider than the distance between the rafters.
Plates or rolls of insulation are cut in size a little more than a step between the rafters, so when they are laid, no gaps and voids remain
Installing a waterproofing layer. To protect against moisture and wind, a waterproofing membrane is laid on top of the insulation, previously fixing it with furniture staples.
Installation of the counter-lattice. Bars with a section of 40x40 or 50x50 mm are stuffed from above, orienting them along the rafter legs. The counter-lattice additionally fixes the waterproofing film and at the same time creates a ventilated gap necessary to remove condensate from the under-roof space.
Installation of a continuous crate. For these purposes, use sheets of moisture-resistant plywood, OSB boards or boards with a section of at least 20x100 mm, laid in increments of 3-5 mm.
When creating a continuous crate, small gaps are left between the sheets to compensate for the thermal expansion of wood materials.

Before any work is done wooden elements in without fail are treated with an antiseptic to protect them from rotting, mold and insects.

In order to properly mount soft tiles, you need to make an even and solid base. To create it, if possible, you need to use boards or slabs of the same thickness or use special linings, carefully monitoring the evenness outer surface. When creating a crate, the moisture content of wood should not be more than 18-20%.

Sheet material is laid so that its long side is parallel to the eaves. When boards are used, their length must be such as to cover at least two runs. Docking of all elements of the crate is carried out only on the rafter legs.

When temperature and humidity change, wooden elements change their dimensions, so small expansion joints must be left between them.

When creating a roofing pie for flexible tiles, you need to take care of good ventilation, so a gap of 5 or more centimeters is created between the coating and the waterproofing film. If everything is done correctly, then the heat from the house will be less transferred to the roofing material, so the formation of condensate and, accordingly, ice on it will decrease. AT summer period the ventilation gap will not allow the under-roof space to get very hot. For air circulation, holes are left in the filing of the overhangs and an exhaust duct is made in the ridge.

For the ventilation of the under-roof space, the bars of the counter-lattice laid along the rafters along the waterproofing coating are responsible

Installation of lining material

Flexible tiles can be used on pitched roofs with an angle of inclination of more than 12 o . It should only be laid on a special lining material:

if the slope angle does not exceed 30 o, lining layer is arranged over the entire surface;
if the slope is steeper, then the lining is laid only along the eaves, near the pipes, at the junctions with the wall and in the valleys. This is necessary to ensure reliable waterproofing in these places, since snow and ice accumulate most of all in them.

On roofs with a slope of less than 30 degrees lining material laid parallel to the eaves with an overlap of at least 100 mm

Different lining materials can be used, so the method of their installation will be different.

The composite material, consisting of a film and a bituminous filler, is laid on a self-adhesive layer, so it is enough to spread it on the base and roll it with a roller.
The polyester lining carpet is fixed on bituminous mastic, and additionally fixed on top and sides special nails with wide and flat hats with a pitch of 200 mm.

The canvases are laid along the roof eaves with a longitudinal overlap of at least 10 cm and a transverse overlap of at least 20 cm. The technology for laying the lining material provides for its certain width in different places:

from the center of the valley - 50 cm on each side;
from the ridge - 25 cm in both directions;
from end and eaves plank- not less than 40 cm.

To ensure maximum tightness in places of overlap, the lining is additionally coated bituminous mastic.

Installation methods of flexible tiles

Fixation soft roof can be done using various fasteners, it all depends on the type of roof base.

Fastening with roofing nails is the most common method and is used when the base is made of moisture-resistant plywood, boards or OSB. If the under-roof space is insulated, then the tips of the nails will be hidden, so the possibility of injury while in the attic is excluded. In this way, you can fix the starting, ordinary and ridge tiles, as well as lining carpet and accessory elements.

Roofing nails must be hammered strictly perpendicular to the surface of the shingles

Installation of flexible tiles is carried out using nails 25-40 cm long with a cap diameter of 8 to 12 mm. It is recommended to use not ordinary steel, but galvanized nails, as they have a much longer service life. They are hammered with a hammer strictly perpendicular to the crate, the hat should be adjacent to the tile. It is bad when the hat is recessed into the roofing material, and it is not good if there is a gap between it and the soft tile.

For the installation of flexible tiles and all additional elements for 100 square meters roofing will need 10 kg of nails.

To drive nails, you can use a nailer - a pneumatic nailer. It can have a drum or rack design. Nickel-plated nails are used, they also have a wide hat.

The use of an automatic nailer (nailer) significantly speeds up the process of fastening the roofing

Self-tapping screws with press washers

Roofing screws are not as common an option for soft roofing as nails, but in some cases there is no alternative to it. They are used for fixing flexible tiles on a base made of laminated plywood. In this case, plywood also acts and interior decoration attic. Usually this method is used when creating a roof on a terrace or in a gazebo. Nails cannot be used, as they are difficult to hammer into this material - they can destroy it.

With the help of self-tapping screws, tiles are usually attached to a laminated base on a gazebo or terrace, where it also acts as an interior finish.

When choosing self-tapping screws, it must be borne in mind that their length should be slightly less than the thickness of the plywood. Self-tapping screws with press washers should also be used when the base is made of thin boards, as nails can split them.

Staples

Staples are recommended to be used in the same cases as self-tapping screws, but it should be borne in mind that they do not go well into the laminated surface. This option is suitable for mounting tiles on a gazebo, shed or doghouse, but it is better not to use it for the main building, as this is not a very reliable mount.

It is not recommended to fasten flexible tiles with brackets on a residential building, since this method does not provide a sufficient degree of reliability.

surfacing building hair dryer used when nails or self-tapping screws cannot be used. Typically, such installation of a soft roof is used when covering forged canopies or other surfaces, when a sheet of metal acts as a base or thin plywood. The building hair dryer can only be used for those flexible tiles that have a self-adhesive backing.

Only those tiles that have a self-adhesive base can be fixed with a building hair dryer

Installation of flexible tiles using a building hair dryer is complex and laborious process which requires professional skills and experience.

Roof tile tool

To be able to start work, you need to purchase all the necessary materials and tools:

starting, ordinary and skating elements;
lining;
mastic;
putty knife;
sealant;
fasteners: nails, screws or staples;
metal scissors for cutting additional elements;
eaves and pediment planks;
end carpet;
roofing knife for cutting shingles;
measuring instruments;
chopping cord or chalk;
construction dryer.

Before starting work, you need to make sure that all materials are compatible and have the same shade.

Shingles (individual elements soft tiles) have small size, therefore, during their laying on the base, there is a high probability of doing it unevenly. To avoid such errors, you must first mark the surface on which the flexible tile will be mounted:

using a level and chalk, draw vertical lines along the edges of the roof surface in increments of 1 m;
horizontal lines are made in increments of 70 cm, they must be perpendicular to the vertical ones.

The laying scheme is as follows:

According to the developed technology, the installation of a soft roof begins from the lower edge of the slope, stepping back from the edge of 2-3 cm. Laying the first row can be performed:
The installation of the second row is done according to the markings, moving from the middle to the edges. Before attaching the shingles, they must be removed from the protective film, then pressed to the surface and fixed with the selected fasteners. If the sheets do not have a self-adhesive base, they must be coated with bituminous mastic. The next rows are laid with an offset, which is determined by the geometry of the applied coating. In order to fix one shingle, three nails are enough. The outer sheets of the tiles must be cut, smeared with mastic and glued to the base. To align color scheme, it is recommended to stack elements from different packages side by side.
In addition to fastening with self-tapping screws, the edges of the sheets for reliable waterproofing are coated with bituminous mastic.

Video: shingle laying sequence

Features of installation of roof elements from flexible tiles

To protect and strengthen gable overhang mount metal additional elements. They are laid on top of the lining and securely fixed with nails, which are hammered every 10-15 cm.

Installation of a dropper on a shingle roof

For reinforcement and protection eaves overhang metal additional elements are used, which are called. To the edge of the base, the extensions are fastened with nails, hammering them in 10-15 cm in a checkerboard pattern. When connecting the planks, they overlap up to 5 cm and hammer nails every 2-3 cm.

To fix the dropper, nails are hammered in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 10-15 cm

In addition to the fact that the dripper protects the cornice overhang from moisture and from strong wind, it also serves to direct water flowing from the roof into gutter, and plays an aesthetic role in the design of the roof. The color of the drippers is selected to match the main coating.

Lathing for a soft roof consists of beams, boards, OSB sheets or plywood. There are basic requirements that the crate must meet:

strength and reliability;
the ability to withstand the weight of a person and snow cover;
no cracks, bumps and protruding nails.

To create a soft roof, the ideal option is continuous crate. The stages of its creation will be as follows:

Table: dependence of the thickness of the lathing on the pitch of the rafters

Sheet material is fastened with a wide side parallel to the cornice overhang and mounted with overlapping joints in the form of brickwork.

Sheathing step for flexible tiles

The step between the boards of the crate should be 3-5 mm, and between the sheet materials - about 3 mm

If the crate is made from edged boards, the pitch should be 3–5 mm. Under the influence of moisture and temperature, the boards will expand, and if you do not make a gap between them, they will bend with a hump and damage the roofing material.

Video: crate under soft tiles

Counter grate for shingles

A feature of bituminous materials is their complete airtightness, if the coating is properly sealed. If there is no gap between the solid base and the insulation, condensate cannot be removed from the roofing pie. This will lead to the accumulation of moisture and its entry into the insulation, from which its properties noticeably deteriorate.

Due to this feature of flexible tiles, it is necessary to equip a counter-lattice in order to be able to create a ventilation gap. It is mounted on the rafters, a sparse crate is arranged on top of it, and only then - solid. To create a counter-lattice, bars with a section of 50x50 mm are used.

The counter-lattice is one of the most important elements of the roofing pie and is responsible for creating a ventilation gap

When the counter-lattice under the valleys is mounted, the bars are loosely applied to the flooring at a distance of about 10 cm from each other. This solution allows you to ensure the normal flow of water, otherwise the valleys will be poorly ventilated, since condensate cannot be normally removed through the cornice overhang.

Roof rafters made of soft tiles

For soft tiles, a layered or hanging roof can be built. rafter system. Installation is carried out in several stages:

Preparatory work. Errors in the height of the walls that were made during the laying are eliminated. The difference can be no more than 1-2 cm. On a brick house, defects are eliminated with a solution, and on a wooden house - with the help of beams and slats.
Mauerlat installation. First lay a layer of roofing material or other insulating material and then Mauerlat. Yes, the surface wooden beam protect against moisture penetration from concrete or brickwork. For fastening the Mauerlat use threaded studs, pre-embedded in masonry, anchor bolts or staples.
Concrete or brick surfaces are leveled with a mortar, a layer of roofing material is laid on them, and then a Mauerlat is installed
Bed installation. To interior walls they fix the transverse beam connecting the midpoints of the short sides of the frame of the house, and check its horizontalness.
Installation uprights and run. Racks are installed on the bed, having previously secured them with struts. A ridge run is attached to them from above. Before final fixing, carefully check the verticality of all racks and the position of the ridge - it must lie horizontally and pass strictly in the middle of the roof.
When installing a ridge run, it is necessary to ensure it horizontal position right in the middle of the roof
Manufacturing roof trusses. If there are no deviations in the size of the building, the rafter legs are made according to the template. First, the extreme elements are mounted, a cord is pulled between them and the remaining trusses are mounted. Rafters are installed under flexible tiles in increments of 60 to 200 cm. Anchor bolts and wire are used to fix the racks. Then “fillies” are attached - elements that support the cornice overhang. Their length should not exceed 600 mm.
If there are no deviations in the dimensions of the building frame in the corners and horizontally, the rafter legs are made according to a single template

Connection device

In order for the material to bend more smoothly at the junctions, a triangular-shaped rail is nailed to them. To do this, take an ordinary plinth or a bar cut in half. The tile elements that are adjacent to the wall lead over the edges of the rail. From the valley carpet, strips 50-60 cm wide are made and laid on top of the tiles. To ensure the tightness of the strip, it is necessary to lubricate with bituminous mastic. They should go onto the wall at least 300 mm, and in regions with snowy winters - up to 400–500 mm. The upper edge is wound into a strobe and pressed with an apron, after which the structure is fixed and sealed.

Flexible tiles are brought to a vertical surface through a triangular rail and fixed in the upper part with a special junction bar

At the junction with brick pipes, a pattern is made from a valley carpet or from galvanized metal. The front pattern is installed over the strips of ordinary tiles. After that, side and rear patterns are mounted, which are wound under the shingles. A gutter is made on the sides and back of the pipe, and for those shingles that fit the pipe, the upper corners are cut, which will ensure reliable water drainage. The lower part of the elements is smeared with mastic and securely fixed.

Pass-through device

In order to seal well the places where ventilation pipes pass through the roof, it is necessary to install passage elements. They are fastened with nails, and for better fixation they are additionally lubricated with bituminous mastic, after which ordinary elements are laid on them. Then a roof outlet is put on the passage element.

In regions with frosty and snowy winters, insulated ventilation outlets. Put caps on sewer pipes not recommended, since during their freezing the draft will deteriorate greatly. You can use caps without internal cuts, they not only decorate appearance structures, but also do not allow leaves and precipitation to get inside.

Passing elements allow you to seal the roof in places of passage ventilation pipes

Video: installation of a pass-through element

Mounting the skate

A special flexible tile is laid on the ridge. On each of its sheets there are places of perforation, according to which it is divided into three parts. After that, the protective film is removed and the element is glued to the ridge. One side of it is fixed with nails (there should be 4 of them), and the next tile covers the attachment point. The overlap should be about 50 mm.

A sheet of ridge tiles is divided into three parts, which are laid with an overlap of 5 cm

Installation of flexible tiles is not very difficult, therefore, with the implementation said work you can do it by hand. If you are a beginner, then you must first study the installation technology, evaluate your strengths, and only then decide whether you can do this work yourself. Particular attention should be paid to the creation of a high-quality and even base, since not only the appearance, but also the service life of the flexible tile depends on this.

For the installation of roofs, fences, fences and other structures made of corrugated board, this type of fastener is used, such as a roofing self-tapping screw. Thanks to its special design, the hardware is ideal for attaching thin metal sheets to wood or metal frames. Before the advent of self-tapping screws, this was a long and painstaking procedure. Today, such work is carried out with minimal labor costs, saving time and money for the customer.

Features and characteristics of hardware

Various fasteners for wood or metal help to fix the sheets quickly and efficiently, observing the specified standards of strength and tightness. Their properties:

have increased strength, as they experience greater loads than sheet material;
have a special coating against corrosion, which guarantees a long service life and high reliability;
have a pressed steel washer and a rubber pressure seal.

The GLAVSNAB online store presents wide selection roofing screws with delivery in Moscow. All products in our catalog are different high quality and reliability. You can buy them wholesale and retail to use for building a house or repairing an apartment.

The term "soft roof" combines a whole group of materials. This is roofing material, and roll-on built-up coatings, and soft tiles. Despite external differences, all these materials are made on the basis of modified bitumen, which makes the final roofing products soft and flexible. And also one important feature: they are not able by themselves to maintain a rigid shape and withstand external loads.

Bituminous materials perform their function only when laid on a hard and strong frame. Such a frame when creating a soft roof is a crate in the form of an even continuous flooring.

When constructing a sparse structure, its elements (boards) are located on the rafters not all the way, but with a certain step. On average, this step is 20-50 cm. This design is not suitable for soft bituminous materials, as they will sag between the elements.

Soft roofing requires a continuous sheathing, which is a flooring made of boards, OSB, plywood. A small gap between the elements is allowed, but it should not exceed 1 cm.

Types of solid crates

So, under a soft roof, there must be a solid flooring. With this we have decided. But the crate for a soft roof can consist not only of this layer. There are 2 types of solid crates:

Single layer decking- the elements of the crate are laid parallel to the ridge, directly on the rafters. Boards (tes), plywood or OSB are used as elements. A single crate is rarely used, mainly for laying roofing material.
double flooring- a combination of two layers, sometimes composed of different materials. The first layer, the working layer, is, in fact, a sparse crate. It consists of boards (beams), which are mounted in acceleration. Then a second, already continuous layer is laid on it - flooring from boards, OSB or plywood. The double crate makes it possible to form a ventilation gap under the flooring and accommodate a thermal insulation pie between the rafters. Therefore, this design is preferred for all modern bituminous materials (also for shingles).

Let's consider the technologies for the device of continuous crates of all available types.

Installation of a single-layer continuous crate

A single-layer crate is laid directly on the rafters, without any additional elements. Suitable for budget construction with the use of roofing material, without the formation of an insulation pie under the roof.

Option # 1 - lathing from boards

For continuous single decking, tongue-and-groove boards or boards can be used. Unedged boards are not suitable, as all their irregularities will be reflected on the surface of the soft roof. And this will negatively affect the decorative and moisture-proof properties of the roof.

Such a crate is the simplest and consists of boards stuffed across the rafters.

Requirements for boards for solid lathing:

Boards should be smooth, without knots.
Their width is 100-140 mm, thickness - 20-37 mm (depending on the pitch of the rafters: up to 900 mm - thickness 20 mm, 900 mm - 23 mm, 1200 mm - 30 mm, 1500 mm - 37 mm).
Humidity - no more than 20%. This is due to the fact that raw wood will sooner or later begin to dry out, and the fasteners will fall out of it. In addition, on a wet base, the life of bituminous materials is reduced.
Boards must be antiseptic to prevent putrefactive processes, the appearance of woodworms and fungal plaque.

During the installation of such a crate, the boards are fixed over the rafters, perpendicular to them, along the ridge. Since the boards tend to warp, forming a concave tray on one side, and a bulge on the other, the crate must be laid with trays up. Then the water that has seeped through the roofing material will fall into the tray, follow the gorge to the cornice and flow down it to the outside, without getting into the attic.

Installation is carried out from the bottom up, starting from the overhang. The joints of the boards along the length are laid on supports (on the rafters). Nails (self-tapping screws) are hammered closer to the edges, while trying to drown the hats a little into the wood. A barely noticeable gap is left between adjacent boards (in height) - about 3 mm. It serves to level the temperature deformations of wood that occur during changes in humidity and temperature. As the conditions change, the boards will shrink and expand, so if you fasten them too tightly, bumps are likely to appear.

Option # 2 - crate made of panel materials

Instead of boards on the rafters, you can fix panel materials - plywood or OSB. They have the high moisture resistance and flexibility required for long-term roofing service.

The use of panel materials allows you to speed up the process of mounting the crate and get a perfectly flat base surface for subsequent layout roll materials or shingles.

Requirements for shield materials:

High moisture resistance. Not all panel materials have the parameters necessary to work in wet conditions on the roof. Among those suitable for roofing, OSB-3 (moisture-resistant brand of oriented strand board) and FSF (moisture-resistant plywood) can be noted.
Thickness - 9-27 mm (depending on the pitch of the rafters: if this distance is up to 600 mm, then the thickness of the sheet should be at least 9 mm, if 600 mm - 12 mm, if 900 mm - 18 mm, if 1200 mm - 21 mm , if 1500 mm - 27 mm).
Shields must be impregnated with an antiseptic - to protect against fungal infections. This is necessary because OSB-3 and FSF are only resistant to short-term exposure to moisture and require coating on the roof waterproofing materials. So additional protection should not be neglected.

Sheets of plywood or OSB are laid on the rafters long side parallel to the skate. In this case, the connecting seams of adjacent rows should not coincide. Sheets are mounted in a checkerboard pattern, apart.

A gap of 2 mm is left between adjacent sheets, so that when moisture is collected, they do not swell. If installation is carried out during a cold period, the gap is increased to 3 mm to compensate for the expansion of heated sheets in summer.

The shields are fixed with fasteners (self-tapping screws or ruff nails) on each rafter - in increments of 30 cm, at the junction of the ends - in increments of 15 cm, along the edges - in increments of 10 cm.

Installation of a double solid crate

The double crate is a two-tier structure, the first layer of which is boards laid in a row, the second continuous layer is flooring from boards, OSB, plywood. A double crate is considered more efficient and reliable than a single layer, so it is recommended for the installation of modern soft roofs.

The structure can be assembled only from boards (sometimes - bars) or from their combination with OSB and plywood.

Option # 1 - double crate of boards

For the base for a soft roof, you can use only one type of material - boards. Both layers of the crate are constructed from them.

Requirements for materials:

Boards of the first (sparse) layer: thickness - at least 25 mm, width - 100-140 mm. Boards can be replaced with bars 50x50 mm or 30x70 mm.
Boards of the second (solid) layer: thickness 20-25 mm, width - 50-70 mm.
Lumber is pre-coated with antiseptic compounds.

The installation of the crate is simple and is carried out according to the following algorithm:

First, boards or bars are nailed parallel to the ridge (perpendicular to the rafter legs) with a step that excludes bending of the boards of the second layer, on average, 200-300 mm.
From above, on a sparse crate, at an angle of 45 ° (diagonally), boards of the second layer are nailed. Not close, but with a gap of up to 3 mm, which can extinguish the thermal deformation of wood. Sheathing is carried out in the direction from the ridge to the eaves.

A similar base, as a rule, is used when laying roofing material. For flexible tiles, it is recommended to build a combined version.

Option # 2 - combined double crate

AT combined design several materials are combined. The first layer is boards or bars, the second layer is plywood or OSB.

Traditionally, the combined crate is assembled as follows: boards or beams are fixed perpendicular to the rafters, and sheets of plywood or OSB are placed on top of them. This technology is used, as a rule, in the construction of a cold attic (without insulation pie and waterproofing film on the roof).

If insulation takes place, then use another version of the crate, more complex. Along the rafters, the bars of the counter-lattice are stuffed, on top of them, perpendicularly, the boards of the first layer of the crate. The whole structure is completed by plywood or OSB boards. This option differs from the previous one by the presence of a counter-lattice, which forms a ventilation gap between the large-panel flooring and waterproofing.

Material requirements:

Bars of the counter-lattice: even bars with a section of 25x30 mm or 50x50 mm.
Sparse layer boards: thickness - 25 mm, width - 100-140 mm.
Plywood or OSB-3: thickness 9-12 mm.
Materials must be pre-antiseptic.

In order to build a combined continuous crate, perform the following steps:

In the presence of a heat-insulating cake with a waterproofing film, counter-lattice bars are installed. Their cross section can be in the range of 20-50 mm, most often 25x30 mm. The bars are fixed over the rafter legs, along them. The counter-lattice serves not only to form a ventilation gap, but also to fix the waterproofing film, which is laid on the insulating material. If we consider installation work in stages, then first heat-insulating mats are laid between the rafters, a waterproofing film is stretched over the rafters and mats, which is nailed on top with counter-lattices. If a heat-insulating cake is not foreseen in the roof, this item is skipped and immediately proceed to fastening a sparse crate.
Lathing boards (width - 100-140 mm, thickness - 25 mm) are fixed to the bars of the counter-lattice (if any) or to the rafters perpendicularly. Fastening step with nails (self-tapping screws) - 200-300 mm.
Sheets of OSB-3 or plywood are placed along the ridge, with the long side across the rafters. Installation is carried out with a breakdown of the seams, that is, in a checkerboard pattern. A compensation gap of 2-3 mm is left between the shields. Fastening is performed on each rafter, using self-tapping screws or ruffed nails for fixing. The fastening step on the rafters is 30 cm. The plates are laid so that their edges must fall on the supports, they are also docked there and also fixed with fastening elements, but with a more frequent step - 15 cm.

To make it clearer, see how it looks during the construction process:

The technology is simple, to understand all its nuances, just watch a short video:

Checking the design for errors

When the crate is ready, you should look at it with a critical eye. Were fatal errors made that could have a negative impact on the operation of the roof?

A high-quality finished crate has the following properties:

It does not bend under the weight of a person, otherwise it will be problematic to work on it and repair the roof in the future.
Has no gaps (greater than allowed expansion gaps). If it was not possible to avoid cracks, then the gaps are covered with strips of roofing tin.
Does not have protruding knots and non-recessed nails on the surface that can break through bituminous materials soft roof.
The ends of the lumber, through which bitumen products will subsequently be bent, are not sharp, rounded off with a planer to prevent tears and rubbing.
All materials for the crate are dry, covered with antiseptic agents.

It is important that the solid crate does not have the above flaws. Only in this case roll coating or shingles will successfully perform their functions.

The roof made of bituminous soft tiles is easy to use, durable and aesthetic. Its big plus is that it is quite possible self-assembly. The technology is not the most complicated, the weight of the fragment is small, it is attached to adhesive base are additionally fixed with roofing nails. So the installation of soft tiles with your own hands can be done even alone.

Roofing cake for soft tiles

The attic under the roof can be warm or cold, depending on this, the composition of the roofing cake changes. But its part from the rafters and above always remains unchanged:

waterproofing is stuffed on the rafters;
on it - bars with a thickness of at least 30 mm;
solid flooring.

Here we will consider these materials in more detail - from what and how to make, what features each of them has.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing membranes are available in one, two or three layers. Single-layer membranes - the simplest and cheapest, perform only a dual task - do not allow moisture to pass towards the room and release vapors to the outside. In such a simple way, not only the attic is protected either from the penetration of condensate or suddenly leaked precipitation, but it is also removed from the air excess moisture accompanying human life. Single-layer membranes are poorly represented on the market. Practically they are produced by one company - Tyvek.

Two and three-layer membranes are more durable. They, in addition to the waterproofing layer, also have a layer that gives greater tensile strength. The third layer, if any, is the absorbent layer. That is, even if a drop of condensate has formed on the surface of the membrane, this layer absorbs it into itself, preventing it from spilling onto other materials. With sufficient ventilation, moisture from this layer gradually evaporates and is carried away by air currents.

Three-layer membranes (for example, EUROTOP N35, RANKKA, YUTAKON) are desirable if your attic is insulated and used as a heater mineral wool. It is afraid of getting wet and with an increase in humidity by 10% loses half of its thermal insulation properties.

If under soft tiles there will be cold attic, it is desirable to use a two-layer waterproofing membrane. In terms of strength, it is much better than single-layer ones, and at a price it is only a little more expensive.

crate

over waterproofing film, parallel to the overhang, the lathing strips are stuffed. They are necessary to create a ventilation gap. It will support normal humidity roofing materials.

The crate is made from boards conifers(mainly pine trees). The thickness of the boards is at least 30 mm. This is the minimum gap that will ensure the normal movement of air in the under-roof space. Before laying, the wood must be treated with an impregnation that protects against pests and fungi; after drying this layer, it is also treated with fire retardants, which reduce the combustibility of wood.

The minimum length of the board for the crate is at least two spans of rafters. They are attached and connected above the rafter legs. You can't connect them anywhere else.

Flooring

The flooring under soft tiles is made solid. Materials are selected based on the fact that nails must be driven into it, therefore they are usually used:

OSB 3;
moisture resistant plywood;
tongue-and-groove or edged board of the same thickness (25 mm) with a moisture content of not more than 20%.

When laying flooring under soft tiles, it is necessary to leave gaps between the elements to compensate for thermal expansion. When using plywood or OSB, the gap is 3 mm, between edged boards 1-5 mm. Sheet material is fastened with a run-out of seams, that is, so that the joints are not continuous. Fasten the OSB with self-tapping screws or ruffed nails.

Using boards as flooring, it is necessary to ensure that the annual rings of the wood are directed downwards. With the reverse arrangement, they will be arched, soft tiles will be lifted, the tightness of the coating may be broken. There is another trick that will allow you to save wood flooring smooth even if the moisture content of the boards is above 20%. When laying the ends of the boards, they are additionally fastened with two nails or self-tapping screws hammered close to the edge. This additional fastener will prevent the boards from bending during shrinkage.

The choice of the thickness of the material for flooring under soft tiles depends on the pitch of the crate. The larger the pitch, the thicker the flooring required. The best option- frequent step and thin plates. In this case, a light but rigid base is obtained.

Another point concerns the installation of flooring for soft tiles around the chimney pipe. At brick pipe, whose width is more than 50 cm, a groove is made behind it (pictured). This design, reminiscent of a mini-roof. It separates the rain streams, they roll down the sides of the pipe without flowing into the under-roof space.

After installing the flooring, its geometry is checked. The length is measured, the width of the slope at the top and bottom, the height of the slope on both sides, the diagonals are measured. And the last check - tracking the plane - the entire slope must lie entirely in the same plane.

Soft tile roofing technology

When buying, you will most likely be provided with instructions for which the installation of soft tiles will be described step by step and in detail, indicating all the exact dimensions that this particular manufacturer requires. These recommendations should be followed. However, it is worth getting acquainted with the order of work and their volumes ahead of time - in order to understand the intricacies of installation and required quantity materials.

We must say right away that it is necessary to handle soft tiles when laying carefully - she does not like it if she is bent. Therefore, try not to bend or crush the shingles unnecessarily (this is one fragment consisting of a visible and mounting part).

Overhang reinforcement

The drip bar is installed first. This is an L-shaped sheet of metal coated with paint or polymer composition. polymer coating more expensive, but also more reliable. The color is selected close to the color of bituminous tiles.

Drip bar installed along the roof overhangs

The task of the drip bar is to protect the crate, sections of rafters and flooring from moisture. With one edge, the dropper is laid on the flooring, with the second it closes the overhang. It is fastened with galvanized (stainless steel) nails, which are hammered in a checkerboard pattern (one is closer to the fold, the second is almost at the edge). Fastener installation step - 20-25 cm.

The drip bar is sold in two-meter pieces. Having laid the first element, the second is fixed with an overlap of at least 3 cm. If desired, the gap can be closed: grease the joint with bituminous mastic, fill it with sealant. At the same stage, it is mounted, in any case, hooks are nailed that will hold the gutters.

Laying waterproofing carpet

Regardless of the angle of the roof, a waterproofing lining must be laid in and along the slope. It is sold in meter wide rolls. An adhesive is applied to the underside, covered with a protective film or paper. Before laying, the paper is removed, the valley carpet is glued to the flooring.

Installation of a waterproofing carpet begins with laying it in the valley. Roll out the material of a meter width, distributing 50 cm on both sides of the bend. Here it is desirable to do without joints, but, if necessary, the overlap of two canvases should be at least 15 cm. Laying goes from bottom to top, the junction is additionally coated with bitumen mastic, the material is well pressed.

Next, a waterproofing carpet for flexible tiles is laid along the cornice overhang. Minimum Width carpet on the cornice overhang - the size of the overhang itself, plus 60 cm. The lower edge is located on top of the drip, it can bend down a few centimeters. First, the carpet is rolled out, if necessary, cut, then the protective film is removed from the inside and glued to the substrate. Additionally, they are fixed along the edges with stainless steel or galvanized nails with a large flat hat (step 20-25 cm).

In places of a horizontal joint, the overlap of two canvases is at least 10 cm, in the vertical direction - at least 15 cm. All joints are additionally smeared with bituminous mastic, the material is crimped.

Lining carpet

Underlayment carpet, as well as waterproofing, is sold in rolls of meter width, backside coated with adhesive. The laying method depends on the slope of the roof and on the profile of the selected shingles.

When using bituminous tiles with cuts (such as Jazz, Trio, Beaver Tail), regardless of the slope, the lining carpet is spread over the entire surface of the roof.

Underlayment installation often requires undercutting. This is done with a sharp knife. In order not to damage the material below when cutting, enclose a piece of plywood or OSB.

Fronton (end) plank

Gable strips are mounted on the side sections of the overhangs. These are strips of metal bent in the form of the letter "G", along the fold line of which there is a small protrusion. They close the stacked roofing materials from wind loads, from moisture ingress. The gable plank is laid on the flooring over the lining or waterproofing carpet, fixed with nails (stainless steel or galvanized) in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 15 cm.

These planks also come in pieces of 2 m, stacked with an overlap of at least 3 cm.

Slope marking

To make the installation of soft tiles simple, markings in the form of a grid are applied to the lining carpet or flooring. Do this with a painter's cord. The lines along the cornice overhang are applied at a distance equal to 5 rows of tiles, in the vertical - every meter (the length of one flexible tile shingle). This markup is done easier styling- the edges are leveled along it, it is easier to track distances.

Valley carpet

On top of the already laid waterproofing carpet, another valley material is laid. It is slightly wider, serves as an additional guarantee of no leaks. Without removing the protective film from the underside, it is laid, cut at the bottom in the overhang area, and the boundaries are marked. Deviating from the mark of 4-5 cm, a special mastic of increased fixation Fixer is applied. It is applied from a syringe, with a roller, then rubbed with a spatula into a strip about 10 cm wide.

A valley carpet is laid out on the mastic, the folds are smoothed out, the edges are pressed. Stepping back from the edge by 3 cm, it is fixed with nails in increments of 20 cm.

Connection to a brick pipe

To bypass pipes and ventilation outlets, patterns are made from a valley carpet or galvanized metal, painted in the appropriate color. The surface of the pipe is plastered, treated with a primer.

When using a valley carpet, a pattern is made so that the material enters the pipe by at least 30 cm, and at least 20 cm should remain on the roof.

The pattern is smeared with bitumen mastic, placed in place. the front part is installed first, then the right and left.

Part of the side elements is wrapped on the front part. The back wall is installed last. Its parts go to the side.

At correct installation on the flooring around the pipe, a platform is obtained, completely covered with a valley carpet. Before laying tiles in this place, the surface is smeared with bituminous mastic.

The tile from three sides enters the laid carpet, not reaching the walls of the pipe 8 cm.

The upper part of the junction is sealed with metal bar, which is attached to the dowel.

All gaps are filled with heat-resistant sealant.

Conclusion of round pipes

For the passage of ventilation pipes there are special passage devices. They are positioned so that the lower edge of the element extends over the tile by at least 2 cm.

Having attached the passage element to the roof, its inner hole is circled. A hole is cut in the substrate along the applied contour, into which a round pipe is led out.

The back of the skirt of the passage element is smeared with bituminous mastic, set to the desired position, and additionally fastened around the perimeter with nails. When installing soft tiles, the penetration skirt is smeared with mastic.

The shingle is cut as close as possible to the ledge of the penetration, the gap is then filled with mastic, which is covered with a special UV-protective dressing.

starting strip

The installation of soft tiles begins with the laying of the starting strip. Usually this ridge eaves tiles or ordinary with cut petals. The first element is laid on one of the edges of the slope, with the edge going to gable plank. The lower edge of the starting strip is laid on the drip, stepping back from its fold 1.5 cm.

Removed from the back before installation. protective film, the shingle is leveled and laid. Each section of bituminous tiles is fastened with four nails - at the corners of each fragment, stepping back from the edge or perforation line 2-3 cm.

If a cut from an ordinary tile is used as a starting strip, in some part of it there will be no adhesive composition. In these places, the substrate is smeared with bituminous mastic.

Installation of soft ordinary tiles

There is a flexible tile with an applied adhesive mass, protected by a film, and there is a composition that does not require a protective film, although it also fixes the elements well on the roof. When using the first type of material, the film is removed immediately before installation.

Before laying bituminous tiles on the roof, several packs are opened - 5-6 pieces. Laying is carried out from all packs at the same time, taking one shingle from each one in turn. Otherwise, there will be pronounced spots on the roof that differ in color.

The first shingle is laid so that its edge does not reach the edge of the starting strip by 1 cm. In addition to the adhesive composition, the tiles are also fixed with roofing nails. The number of fasteners depends on the angle of the slope:

When installing soft tiles, it is important to drive in nails correctly. Hats should be pressed against the shingle, but not break through its surface.

Valley design

With the help of a paint cord in the valley, an area is marked in which nails cannot be driven in - this is 30 cm from the middle of the valley. Then mark the boundaries of the gutter. They can be from 5 to 15 cm in both directions.

The upper corner, which is turned towards the valley, is cut

When laying ordinary shingles, nails are driven in as close as possible to the line beyond which nails cannot be hammered, and shingles are trimmed to the floor of the gutter laying line. To prevent water from flowing under the material, the upper corner of the tile is cut obliquely, cutting off about 4-5 cm. The loose edge of the tile is smeared with bituminous mastic and fixed with nails.

Decoration of the pediment

On the sides of the slope, the tiles are cut so that 1 cm remains to the edge (protrusion) of the end plank. The upper corner of the shingle is cut in the same way as in the valley - a piece of 4-5 cm obliquely. The edge of the tile is smeared with mastic. A strip of mastic - at least 10 cm. Then it is fixed with nails, like the rest of the elements.

If the flooring in the area of the ridge is made solid, a hole is cut along the ridge, which should not reach the end of the rib 30 cm. ridge profile with ventilation holes.

It is fixed with long roofing nails. On a long skate, several elements can be used, they are joined end-to-end. The installed metal ridge is covered with ridge tiles. A protective film is removed from it, then the fragment is fixed with four nails (two on each side). The installation of soft tiles on the ridge goes towards the prevailing winds, one fragment overlaps the other by 3-5 cm.

The ridge tile is a ridge-eaves divided into three parts. A perforation is applied on it, a fragment comes off along it (first bend, press the fold, then tear off).

The same elements can be cut from an ordinary tile. It is divided into three parts, not paying attention to the drawing. At the resulting tiles, a corner is cut off - about 2-3 cm on each side. The middle of the fragment is heated with a building hair dryer on both sides, laid in the middle on a bar and, gently pressing, bend over.

Ribs and kinks

The ribs are covered with ridge tiles. A line is beaten off along the bend at the required distance with a masking cord. The edge of the tile is aligned along it. Laying of flexible tiles on the edge goes from bottom to top, each fragment is glued, then stepping back from the top edge of 2 cm, fixed with nails - two on each side. The next fragment comes to the laid 3-5 cm.

It is possible that you do not know how to fix bituminous tiles. There are several options for attaching it. Depending on the sub-roof base, you can apply different methods fixing soft tiles. There are few methods for fastening, but first things first.
1) roofing nails
This is the most common type of attachment. Roofing nails are used when the basis for the roof is moisture resistant boards OSB, softwood plywood or solid wood plank batten.
The roofing nail is applied in those roofs where with inside cladding and insulation will be made, as well as in sparsely populated places (for example, attic roofs) - where numerous sharp stings of nail tips do not pose a constant threat.
Tiles, starting and ridge tiles, underlayment carpet, drips, valley carpets, roof penetrations and ktv roof valves are fastened with nails.
Nail size
Roofing nails for flexible tiles they call nails with large hats Ø8-12mm. Also, for these nails, the name "roofing nails" is applicable. Their length reaches from 25 to 40 mm. The nail rods are up to 3.2 mm in diameter.
For the installation of bituminous tiles, it is best to use galvanized nails. Unlike ordinary steel nails, galvanized nails have a much longer service life, since they are less susceptible to corrosion processes.
Most affordable installation soft roofing on nails is carried out with a hammer. To protect your fingers from lacerations, it is better to use a hammer with a round end of the shock part.
How to fasten nails to shingles
The nail must be hammered so that the head of the nail rests on the surface of the shingle. The nail is hammered perpendicularly (at an angle of 90º) to the plane of the subroofing base.
Incompletely hammered nails prevent maximum bonding of soft tiles and may, after some time, “climb out” of the sub-roof base.
Too deeply driven nails leave a cavity in the shingle, punching it with their head can form a hole around the head of the nail. This negatively affects directly the reliability of the fastening itself.
Consumption of nails for shingles: per 100 sq.m. finished roof - 10 kg of nails. This quantity takes into account the complete installation together with the accessories for the roof.
2) Fixing flexible tiles with nailer
You can also fasten the tiles with the help of a tool such as Nailer, also known as a nailing pneumatic hammer.
nailer nails for nailer
There are rack and drum nailers.
Nails for nailer are made of carbon steel. They are nickel plated. For fastening shingles, nails for nailer must be with a large hat.
3) Self-tapping screws with a press washer
Self-tapping with a press washer is less common, but in some cases there is no alternative. Laminated plywood
The most common material for the base of the roof, where self-tapping screws with a press washer are used, is laminated plywood. Usually it is used for arbors and sheds, open aviaries and in other cases, when the sub-roofing base is also a cladding on the inside of the roof. It is difficult to hammer nails into laminated plywood, and the plywood itself is subject to destruction. Therefore, in such cases, it is correct to use self-tapping screws with a press washer for fastening flexible tiles. It is important that the length of the self-tapping screws is less than the thickness of the plywood, so that their tips do not peek into in large numbers from the inside of the roof. Also, self-tapping screws can be used when a thin wooden lining or board mounted on top of roof framing or rafters. From hammered nails, the lining can prick, giving cracks. Well, so that the nails do not climb out and do not spoil the view from below, they can be replaced with self-tapping screws with a press washer of short length. If, for example, the lining thickness is 20 mm, self-tapping screws 16 mm long can be used.
The rules for fastening with self-tapping screws are the same as for nails.
4) Staples
Fixing bituminous tiles with brackets is relevant and applicable for cases similar to fixing with self-tapping screws, with the only exception - brackets do not clog well and bend into laminated plywood. But in lining, OSB and plywood, when they are used simultaneously as a finish on the underside of the roof and a sub-roof base, they can be used. Such structures include gazebos, sheds, canopies, wells, dog houses and aviaries. It is not necessary to fasten flexible tiles with brackets on the roofs of the main buildings (houses, attics, garages, baths, etc.), as this is a very unreliable type of mechanical fastening.
5) Propane burner
And the last option is to fix the shingles with a propane torch. It is used when it is necessary that there are no nails. As a rule, these are "forged visors" with metal frame, to which a metal sheet is welded or thin plywood or OSB-3 boards are screwed.
Fixing with a torch is applicable only for types of tiles with a self-adhesive backing. These are the so-called single-layer types. Fastening, and in part, fusing bituminous tiles with a burner is the most complex and time-consuming method of fastening, requiring professional skills in working not only with a burner, but also with soft tiles.

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