If you want to grow gladioli on your site, then from mid-summer they will delight you with their magnificent inflorescences and create a festive atmosphere. The agrotechnics of their cultivation is quite simple and you do not need to be a professional to grow gladioli.

Gladiolus is an ideal crop for growing in summer cottages and household plots. They are very decorative, varied in shape and color. Pleased with the duration of blooming of their flowers. In order for your efforts to grow gladioli to be successful, you need to know some of the features and subtleties.

Soil preparation for growing gladioli from bulbs

A place for gladioli is prepared 2 weeks before planting. It should be sunny, protected from cold winds. It is good if trees, shrubs or a fence cover the flower bed from the north.

Dig up a piece of land where you plan to grow gladioli. If the place is low, do high bed, since the bulbs do not tolerate stagnant water. They love loose soil, so if it is heavy, clayey, add peat, sand, humus in a ratio of 1:1:3. Level the area with a rake. Leave the flower bed in this form for 2 weeks. After this time, you can start landing.

How to prepare gladiolus bulbs for planting

2 - 3 weeks before planting, you need to carefully, so as not to damage the hatched sprouts, clean the gladiolus bulbs from scales. Carefully inspect them and discard the sick.

If you meet bulbs affected by wireworm or scab, cut off the affected areas with a knife and treat the sections with a solution of potassium permanganate or greenery. Disinfect the tool with which you cut, after each bulb, so as not to spread the infection.

In order to get high-quality bulbs from children in the future, 2-3 weeks before planting, soak them for 1-2 days in warm water for faster germination. Then hold them in a moist substrate at a temperature of 10 - 12 ° C until pecking.

Before landing, clean the children from hard shell because it retards their development.

In order for the flowering of gladioli to be more decorative, and the resistance of plants to diseases to increase, it is necessary to soak the bulbs in water for 12 hours before planting. warm solution trace elements.

Do not exceed the dose indicated in the instructions, as this may lead to the opposite effect. If you do not have trace elements, then soak them for 3 hours in a thick pink solution of potassium permanganate. Such treatment will protect plants from fungal diseases, accelerate flowering and improve the quality of the flowers themselves.

To bring the flowering time of gladioli closer, you need to germinate the corms in advance. After treatment with microelements, 2-3 weeks before planting, lay them out in one layer in a warm and bright place.

Under these conditions, the root tubercles of the bulbs swell, and the buds begin to grow. It is important to prevent the growth of roots (this happens if the room is humid), as they can break off during planting.

Planting gladiolus bulbs

Planting work is carried out from the end of April to the first decade of May, when the soil at a depth of 12 cm warms up to +8 - +10 ° C. Make holes in the prepared bed, for small bulbs the depth is 7, for large ones - 8-10 cm. It should be equal to three bulb heights. The distance between the grooves is 30-35 cm. If during the summer you do not want to fertilize, pour mineral fertilizers directly into the trench - one third of a teaspoon under each bulb. To do this, you can use nitrophoska or a special fertilizer for flowers with trace elements, mixing it well with the soil.

Pour sand into the bottom of the trench with a layer of 2 cm, pour a recess a little warm water, put the bulbs in it with the root bottom down. Small ones at a distance of 10, and large ones - 20-25 cm. Carefully, so as not to damage the sprouts, sprinkle the grooves with soil. After a few days, a stalk will appear above the surface of the earth, which will begin to grow rapidly.

Video about planting gladioli:

Gladiolus Care

Planting gladiulos need abundant watering- use one to one and a half buckets for each square meter once every seven days. In the event that the weather sets in hot, moisturizing is carried out a little more often - two to three times a week.

Even in the vegetative period, it is worth mulching plantings using humus. The layer of mulch should be three to five centimeters. Such a measure will help to avoid flooding of the soil during irrigation, eliminate the need for frequent loosening and reduce the number of weeds. In addition, humus feeds plants with each watering.

The plant will benefit from repeated feeding. As recommended experienced gardeners gladioli should be fertilized for the first time after the appearance of a pair of leaves on the sprouts. In this case, urea is used, three spoons are diluted in a bucket of water. The second top dressing is carried out at the stage of three or four leaves and consists in the introduction of urea (three spoons) and potassium sulfate (one and a half spoons) dissolved in water (one bucket).

The same composition is used after the formation of five or six sheets. When the peduncle leaves, the plant is fertilized with nitrophoska (two spoons), and after flowering - with superphosphate (one spoon) and potassium sulfate (one and a half spoons). Many gardeners do without top dressing and their flowers grow strong and healthy.

If you grow large-flowered varieties of gladiolus, they can fall under the influence of rain and wind. To avoid this, they need to be tied up. With row cultivation, you can build a trellis, but you can install pegs on the beds.

How to cut gladioli

It is customary to cut gladiolus after it picks up color and the first bud begins to bloom slightly. In this case, the plant is quite capable of surviving long transportation and storage. If you cut off a stem with 2-3 blossoming buds, then as a result of transportation, such a gladiolus quickly loses its attractive appearance and freshness.

Flowers are recommended to be cut in the early morning, even before the sun begins to bake strongly. Wherein optimal way picking flowers is not cutting, but a kind of "breaking out". For this procedure, you need to take a sharp awl, then gently push the leaves apart and make a hole in their base. Now the stem can be carefully broken by holding the hand close to the hole. Thus, the plant will be protected from a possible infection, which usually affects the cuts, and the leaves will remain intact.

​Related Articles​​Healthy babies should have a clean surface, without any stains or damage, not withered or shrunken in any way, with a diameter of approximately 4-5 mm or more. Children retain their germination capacity up to 4 years, but subject to the integrity of their integumentary shell. Gladiolus - perennial Iris family. The leaves are long, thin, shaped like a sword or sword (Latin word "gladius"), hence the name. The stems are erect, the inflorescences are spike-shaped, unilateral or bilateral. Gladiolus are notable for a large range possible colors from white to almost black. There are both bright and gentle tones of coloring. Height from 50 to 80 cm.​

On the one hand, flowers do not require special care and special growing skills, but some rules and a minimum of knowledge will still be required in order to ensure good care and cultivation.​

Description of gladioli

Agrotechnics for growing gladioli

All modern garden gladioli are descended from the crossing of various African and European varieties. And in modern floral design it became popular to use gladiolus in the design of flower beds with small flowers and wild species. At the same time, large-flowered forms do not lose their relevance for making bouquets and flower arrangements.

• Garter peduncles when they reach a height of 25-30 cm.
• The next step that requires care is treatment for diseases and thrips on the bulbs: 30 minutes for the bulbs and 15 for the children to withstand in a 0.2% solution of karbofos, and then 30 minutes in a 0.5% foundation.
• In early spring, the soil should be loosened to a depth of 10 cm with a 30 gram embed ammonium nitrate or urea.
• groundwater must be lower than at a depth of 0.8 m;​

Agricultural technology of gladioli

The leaves are xiphoid or linear.

Planting site and soil preparation

Gladiolus are deservedly considered one of the most beautiful garden flowers. Behind last years them varietal diversity increased hundreds of times - now you can find plant bulbs with flowers different shapes, almost any color, with different height peduncles, timing and duration of flowering. In addition, these flowers are ideal for cutting - they stand for a long time and bloom to the last bud, without losing their decorative effect.

These flowers grow remarkably after all legumes, melons, onions and garlic, dahlias, tagetes, zinnias.

The optimum acidity of the soil is 6.0-7.0 pH. If the soil is alkaline, the plants from the bulbs are severely affected by fungal diseases, and on acid ones they almost do not bloom;

• Flowers in color from pure white to black-purple, in shape they are simple, terry, folded, corrugated, dissected, orchid, dragon, etc.
• You can meet gladioli, which, if you know some rules, is a pleasure to grow, and they require minimal care, you can both in summer cottages and in exquisite landscaped gardens, and in city flower beds.​
• Bulbs are planted in dried soil, with temperatures up to +10 degrees.
• These are moisture-loving plants. With a lack of watering and lack of sufficient sunlight may not bloom at all. It is also necessary to take care of moderate gladiolus fertilizer in different periods of growth. Flowering can last from two to four weeks. For the winter, gladiolus corms are dug up and stored in a place with a moderate temperature.

When storing gladioli in a warm place, care and preparation is practically not required, only good lighting is needed to form healthy and strong shoots. But it is necessary to inspect the bulbs for the presence of rot, scab and thrips.

Precursors for gladioli

Gladiolus (lat.Gladiolus) is a flower beloved by all flower growers. The varieties are very varied. The leaves of the gladiolus are xiphoid, the inflorescences are unilateral swept. The most popular among summer residents are large-flowered plants. Flower petals are smooth and corrugated. The colors are varied, the most common are red, orange, pink, yellow and white. There are also two-tone: white and pink. Gladiolus bulbous plant. Bulbs are planted in spring in April-May, and dug up in autumn. The bulbs are cleaned from the ground and stored in a cool ventilated area. Grown mainly for cutting. It is advisable to tie the flower stalks so that they do not break. Flowering time from late July to September. Cold-resistant species are dug at the end of October.

The first rule concerns the competent choice of corms. They must be young. You can distinguish them from the old planting material by the shape and size of the bottom. Old corms are slightly flattened and look like pancakes, while they have a large bottom. Young specimens have a rounded shape (the height is almost equal to the diameter) and a small bottom. And, of course, you should not purchase planting material in a closed package. Thus, you can get low-quality planting material.

Planting material processing

From the beginning of the death of the leaves and after flowering, at least a month should pass, the tubers of gladiolus are carefully dug up and, without cleaning, dried in the air - at least 20 days. During this time, the bulbs should dry out a little. They are transferred for storage to a dark basement, with a temperature of + 2-8 degrees, spreading out no more than two layers in plastic or wooden boxes. The bottom should be covered with paper or pour dry sawdust. If there is not much planting material, you can store it in the refrigerator, in the vegetable compartment, after packing it in paper bags.

They depend primarily on the climate of the region. AT southern regions it is optimal to do this from the end of March to mid-April - then flowering can already be expected in July. In more northern areas, planting bulbs is recommended from April 15 to mid-May. In the north, gladioli can be grown in heated greenhouses - they do not germinate in cold soils, and when temperatures drop to -3C, most die, no care will help.

But after potatoes, carrots, beets, radishes, daikon and all types of cabbage, gladioli cannot be planted - the bulbs are affected by wireworms and thrips.

• The introduction of fresh manure, slurry and bird droppings is unacceptable - the bulbs are affected by very dangerous diseases of botrytis and fusarium and die.
• In order for the cultivation of gladioli to be successful and to get healthy, large, magnificent flowers, certain agricultural practices should be followed.
• We provide you detailed description agricultural techniques of this beloved and popular flower.

Proper care of gladiolus includes fertilizing. At spring processing substrate, phosphate fertilizers must be applied. nitrogen fertilizer contribute only after 3 weeks, after 6 weeks after planting. Before fertilizing and after that, the gladiolus must be watered. Excellent effect on the development of the plant and additional top dressing, which consists in spraying the leaves with a solution boric acid- 0.6 g per 1 liter of water or potassium permanganate - 0.15 g per 1 liter of water.​

Viral and fungal diseases (such as Fusarium, dry rot, gray rot, scab) can infect corms and upper part gladiolus at improper care, lack of preventive spraying and improper location and care

Terms and scheme of planting gladiolus bulbs

Bulbs are cleaned of scales, carefully examined. If, when examining the bulbs, thrips were found, they should be sprinkled with any powder from cockroaches, but if the treatment was a liquid solution, then it will be necessary to dry the bulbs. The consequences of thrips are very unpleasant, this is damage to leaves and bulbs, and the worst thing is that the bud itself will be very ugly.

Since gladioli love light, it means that you need to find a place on the site that is quite sunny. Shady areas are undesirable because growth and flowering will be slow. You can’t plant in areas where stagnant water is possible, ideally choose areas that are slightly inclined to the south, so that excess water will not stagnate.

The second rule concerns the exact landing time. planted in open ground corms only after the soil at a depth of 10-13 cm warms up to + 10 ° C. In the temperate zone, this occurs in late April or early May. If planting is done ahead of time, then the growth and development of the plant slows down and the risk of diseases increases. Late landing contributes active growth green mass, but the plant does not bloom well.

summer care for gladiolus

​Storage care involves good ventilation of the room and regular inspection - if mold is detected or brown spots, remove the affected bulb, and treat the neighboring ones with a solution of potassium permanganate, dry well in air and place it back in storage.

• ​Many people are wondering how to grow cut gladiolus in order to extend the season for generating income from the sale of these flowers. For such purposes, you will have to use a heated shelter, where in the first days of March it is necessary to land the most germinated seeds already in advance. large bulbs, and then, plant the remaining planting material in parts every 2 weeks until June. This scheme guarantees regular shipments of fresh flowers for sale. It is optimal to make the ridges 120 cm wide with 5 longitudinal rows (it will be easier to tie the flower stalks to the trellises so that the wind does not break them). Between plants - 20 cm for tall varieties, 15 cm for lower ones, 10 cm for dwarf ones and when landing children on planting material. You can not plant small and large bulbs mixed, as the latter will inhibit the growth of small ones. Planting depth 8-10 cm - the hotter the region, the deeper. Tubers for propagation are sown to a depth of 5 cm and you need to choose the largest fraction.
• Firstly, for planting, you need to choose only completely healthy corms and babies. After carefully examining them, it is necessary to immediately discard the damaged ones, with spots, especially rotten ones - they can be brought into the soil with them. dangerous diseases. If there is little planting material, and you really like the variety, try to improve the planting material by removing all damaged parts and keeping it in a bright solution of potassium permanganate. Then just treat the wounds with ordinary brilliant green. Can be sprinkled with ashes charcoal, or foundationazole. It is necessary to plant separately, away from the main plantation.
• Beds for gladioli should be prepared in the fall: dig to a depth of at least 30 cm, clean from weed roots. Add ash, dolomite flour or slaked lime to acidic soil. Alkaline soils are acidified by adding peat for digging.
• The requirements for gladioli for growing conditions in open ground are as follows:
• Gladiolus got its name from Latin word denoting "sword". So in ancient rome called these flowers. They were considered a symbol of military nobility, and gladiators wore an onion as an amulet that protected them from death in battle. We have these flowers folk names: spade, mower, sword.​

Digging and storing bulbs

As Gladiolus grows, it should be tied to a support.

Gladiolus from the genus of bulbous perennials. This is perhaps the most beautiful and majestic herbaceous flower from the iris family. It is grown not only in gardens, but also for cutting - it is very popular in bouquets. There are only up to 200 species of gladioli. These plants are valued for their attractive decorative qualities, a variety of forms and the largest color range of colors, as well as the duration of flowering and unlimited possibilities in arrangement.​

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Secrets of agricultural technology for growing gladioli

Rotten parts can be cut off with peace of mind. Half of a whole bulb is not defective, and will also please with flowering. But you should recognize where the rot is and where the scab is. The scab looks like a seal, it lends itself if you pick it up a little.

Successful planting and cultivation also depends on the acidity of the soil. To neutralize acidity during digging, chalk or eggshell or dolomite flour about 200 g per square meter.​

Thirdly, you must strictly adhere to the landing pattern. Large corms are closed to a depth of 10-15 cm, and small ones - to 5-7 cm. Optimal width row spacing is 45-60 cm, the distance between plants in a row can vary from 5 to 15 cm - this figure depends on the size of the bulbs.​ Hello, dear friends! It is advisable to plant varieties with the same period of flowering and plant growth on the same bed - this greatly facilitates care during the growing season and autumn harvesting of the bulbs.

The second stage is the cleaning of the bulbs from scales and soaking in a warm (about 30 degrees) solution of potassium permanganate (no more than 1%) for 20 minutes. Next, the bulbs are vernalized in a bright, warm room with a humidity of no more than 60%.

Fertilizer application rates per 1 sq.m in autumn are as follows:

Rules of agricultural technology of gladioli

Only a well-lit place - in partial shade, the flowers shrink and bloom weakly with a delay of 2-3 weeks, and when shaded for more than 3 hours on the south side, they do not bloom at all;

After the gladiolus has faded, it is approximately 50 days from the beginning of flowering, you need to dig out the bulbs. After that, their stems are cut at a distance of 2 cm from the top of the bulb. Then they are dried for several hours and for the first two days they maintain a temperature of about + 20-25 degrees, then the storage temperature of the bulbs should be 30-35 degrees C, with mandatory good ventilation. Then they are cleaned from old roots and from the old dead bulb, as well as the upper scales and put in clean boxes, where they are stored at a plus temperature of 18-20 degrees for 3 weeks. After that, the bulbs are placed in a room with a decrease in temperature to 5-10 degrees. Two weeks before planting, the bulbs must be moved to a place with a temperature of about 13-16 degrees - this is necessary to awaken dormant buds. In the conditions of an apartment, corms are perfectly preserved in the refrigerator.

cutting gladiolus

These plants have up to 80 cm long, bluish-green leaves that wrap around their erect stem. A spike-shaped inflorescence of the most beautiful funnel-shaped flowers is formed on the stem, which, after flowering, give a seed capsule. There may be about 25 or more buds in an inflorescence, but only up to 12 flowers usually open at a time.

In principle, the scab does no harm to the bulb, does not affect the growth and development of the gladiolus, just the appearance of the bulb itself is not very attractive. Its appearance is associated with heavy clay soils. With regards to rot, everything is more serious here. If not removed, the mother bulb will quickly die, and the new one from it will already be infected. You can also not dream of children and flowering of gladioli, it is also possible that infection is near growing gladioli.

bulb storage

Strongly alkaline earth is not recommended for these flowers, as this threatens to infect scab, as well as poor plant development, which will require additional care. If the alkalinity is increased, it can be lowered by adding fertilizers such as superphosphate, sulfite and this type to the soil. According to the structure, the soil is either light loam or sandy loam, as well as structural chernozem. Such a structure is easily achieved if sand is added to heavy loam, and clay mixed with humus and rotted compost is added to sandy soil.

When cutting, do not leave the lower part of the stem without leaves. To cut neatly without damaging the plant, a knife is inserted between the leaves and an incision is made. Then a second incision is made on the other side. As a result, the cut part is easily removed, and the remaining leaves cover the cut from moisture. Not everyone knows that once gladiolus - these noble and majestic flowers, were weeds. Theophrastus once wrote that this plant is “an annoying weed that clogs crops.” Gladiolus became popular garden flower only at the beginning of the eighteenth century. It was from that time that European botanists acquired an African curiosity and began to develop new unique beautiful varieties gladioli. During growth, plants require the following care:

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How to plant gladioli in the country, bulbs preparation, processing | Helpful Hints summer resident

Gladiolus in the country - planting, care

Immediately before planting, the bulbs are recommended to be treated with one of the growth stimulants (potassium humate, heteroauxin, succinic acid) and one of the following microelement compositions (based on 10 liters of water):

Soil preparation for gladioli.

About 30 grams of double superphosphate (or 60 grams of simple);

The soil should be loose, fertile, well-drained;

To know how to grow gladioli and what care to provide them, you need to know their basic biological features.

Gladiolus needs careful care, for example, too high humidity can cause a disease in gladiolus - botrycosis. It is manifested by frequent spotting of the leaves, as well as the perianth and stem. The flower dies from this disease. If a disease is detected, the bulbs need to be dug back in early dates, then dry for a week at a temperature of at least +30 degrees, and a month at a temperature of +18-20 degrees.​

In the ground, gladioli grow corms, which are renewed annually. As the plant grows, along with the leaves, a new corm grows above the mother bulb, and grows around it. a large number of kids. Children have onion-round foma - this is the main planting material for the reproduction of gladioli. Usually, the Gladiolus bulb produces normal flowers for about 3, in the last 4 years, after which it is simply destroyed. When growing gladiolus from “children”, in the first year, when the very first bud appears, the peduncle is simply removed so that the plant grows a bulb. Cut gladiolus, which is used in a bouquet, gives good opportunity let the plant put all the nutrients into the bulb. When cutting, it is very important to leave at least four true leaves - then it will be easier for corms to develop. If these flowers are grown to decorate your garden, it is not advisable to allow the formation of seed boxes. When grown from seeds, gladioli bloom only for 2-3 years. Selected corms are treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, then dried and stored until planting. Before planting, they are cleaned of covering scales, and again soaked for 11 hours in a weak solution of manganese, which serves as both a disinfectant and an excellent growth stimulant. Do not forget that the gladiolus flower is very delicate, so it does not tolerate transplantation well.

If the storage of gladioli was at a low temperature, for example, in a refrigerator, then it will be necessary not only to inspect and clean the scales. It will take warming and germination, if skipped and planted immediately, flowering will be much later, and the children are small.

Preparing gladiolus bulbs for planting

The area that warms up normally is dug up just before planting the onions. If the place is dry, then dig better in autumn, in order for the moisture to be preserved and just before planting, just loosen the ground a little.

In order for the flowers cut into the bouquet to stand as long as possible, you need to add aspirin to the water (1 tablet for each liter of water), and remove the flowers from the peduncle as they fade.

I think you will be interested to know which

Weekly watering (in the absence of natural precipitation) with an amount of water of at least 20-25 liters per 1 sq. meter

3 g of boric acid, 0.5 g of zinc sulfate, 2 g of potassium permanganate - soak for 14 hours.

up to 30 grams of sulfate or potassium chloride;

in the northern regions and on the slopes proper care requires making protective backstage from the wind or planting near fences;

The plant is herbaceous, perennial, bulbous, monocotyledonous, does not hibernate in open ground.

Of the pests, gladiolus is often affected by beetle larvae, bears, butterfly caterpillars, slugs and rodents. So that when storing the bulbs they are not attacked by pests, they must be stored in vermiculite.

Growing gladioli

An important point for growing gladioli is the right place for planting. It is necessary to choose well-lit areas. The best soil there are chernozems for planting gladioli.

Planting a gladiolus

Therefore, about a month before planting, the tubers are sorted out of the cold and left in a warm place. Do not put on batteries and heaters, it is likely that the bulbs will dry out. As soon as the first shoots appear in the gladioli, you will need to move them to a well-lit place.

Gladiolus requires well-lit, wind-sheltered and well-drained areas. In the northern regions, even a slight shading of gladiolus plantings at any time of the day delays the growth of plants, reduces their decorative qualities and leads to later flowering compared to flowering in fully lit areas. Phytodesign will help you choose a place intended for planting gladiolus, which should be flat or have a slight slope in a southerly direction, which provides excess water runoff and good soil warming.

Heavy, clayey, peaty and purely sandy soils, strongly alkaline and acidic, are unfavorable for gladiolus. The necessary soil structure is created by adding sand to heavy loamy soils, clay to sandy soil and a sufficient amount of well-rotted compost and humus.

Plant gladioli on ridges, the width of which, for ease of planting care, is usually 1-1.2 meters, to a depth that depends on their diameter, that is, about 3 corm heights. Be sure to post-plant mulching with loose peat or peat chips, which are scattered over the surface of the planted area with a layer of 3-5 centimeters.

Start preparing corms for planting about a month before planting by cleaning gladioli from covering scales. Peel carefully so as not to damage the sprouts. Cut out the damage, and treat the cut with a strong solution of potassium permanganate, brilliant green, dust with sulfur or crushed coal.

Spread the peeled corms in a single layer with the sprout up in a bright, dry, warm room. For 20-30 days in the corm in the light and at low humidity, a moderate growth of the shoot occurs without the growth of roots, although their rudiments already appear on the bottom. Before planting corms, treat with a solution of Fundazol or Maxim.

Gladiolus responds well to meticulous care. Water abundantly - 10-15 liters per 1 square meter. Loosen the soil regularly, including after watering.

Feed the first time in the phase of the appearance of the 2nd or 3rd true leaves. For 1 square meter, add 25-35 grams of ammonium nitrate, 15-20 grams potash fertilizer, 30-40 grams of superphosphate. The second top dressing is in the phase of the appearance of the 5-6th true leaves: 10-20 grams per 1 square meter of ammonium sulfate, 15-20 grams of superphosphate and 10-20 grams of potassium sulfate are added. The third top dressing is in the phase of the beginning of budding or a little earlier when the peduncle is advanced. She provides good flowering and better education corms. Add 30-40 grams of superphosphate and 15-20 grams of potassium chloride per 1 square meter.
Full maturation of gladiolus corms occurs 6-8 weeks after the end of flowering. However, in middle lane and more northern areas, excavation often has to be done earlier. If thrips has spread greatly during the growing season, then 1-2 weeks before digging up the corms, sprinkle the plants with a solution of Fitoverm, Fufanon, Aktellik, Aktar, Intva-VIR. With a decrease in temperature, the pest goes into the integumentary scales of the corms; therefore, if there is a lot of thrips, it is also worth pickling the corms immediately after digging in the Aktellik or Fufanon solution for 30 minutes. With the massive spread of rot, corms can be pickled in a solution of Maxim.

Gladioli are quite sensitive to negative temperatures, so the plants are dug up before the onset of stable cold weather, usually in late September or early October, depending on weather conditions. At about a distance of 7 - 9 centimeters from the plants, cut the ground with a shovel. Then deepen the scoop and pry off the corms with a clod of earth. Cut the stem of the newly formed corms with secateurs, leaving no hemp. Remove the old corm, why take a new one in left hand, and press the old one with your right thumb, separating it. Then cut off the roots. Wash gladioli in water and dip for 2 - 3 hours in a bucket of garlic gruel. Then pre-dry them and take them home. There still dry 2 - 3 weeks at a temperature of 25 - 30 degrees. After that, 3 - 4 weeks of gladioli should lie at room temperature. At this time, look through the corms, remove the severely affected ones, cut out the sore spots and cover the cuts with brilliant green.

Before storage, gladioli must be treated from a terrible pest - thrips. Spray them with any preparation suitable for the destruction of cockroaches. Wrap the corms in several layers of newspaper and send to the refrigerator or to the balcony door. The temperature should be 3-9 degrees, and relative humidity within 60 percent. It's a good idea to add chopped garlic cloves to the package and change them from time to time.

The varieties of A. Gromov's selection are very popular: Gagarin's smile, Andrey Sakharov, Maya Plisetskaya, Marina Tsvetaeva, Mother, Moscow 850, Rosy cheeks, Traffic light, Sokolniki, Canary solo, Amber Baltic.

Long years gladiolus was associated with me only from September 1, and these flowers in my mind turned into something cold official. But one day I wandered into an exhibition of gladioli and fell ill with them. It turned out that the name of the plant comes from the Latin word "gladus", which means "sword", and it was given to him for the shape of the leaves. That's when I thought about how to grow beautiful gladioli in your country house?

Now my garden is full of gladioli. I plant them on sunny place in the beginning of May. I make a hole, pour some sand, put a corm, fill it with sand, and then with earth. The soil for gladioli, as you can see, is not required. I feed plants with complex fertilizers twice: when several leaves appear, I add nitrogen, and the second time, when buds appear, I add potassium and phosphorus. Those. and fertilizers for gladioli are the most common. I water the plants abundantly, trying not to fall on the leaves, and often loosen.

How to grow gladioli in the country?

If I really like the gladiolus variety, then I propagate it by dividing the corm into three parts so that each has a sprout and a piece of the bottom. Slices are smeared with greenery. Each "piece" will bloom in summer.

In autumn, a month after flowering and after the first frosts, I dig up the plant, cut off the leaves and slightly dry the corms. Then I free them from the remnants of stems and earth and dry the house upstairs for a month. kitchen cabinets. Then I wrap it in paper and put it on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. And a month before planting I take it out, pickle it from diseases and pests and lay it out on the windowsill. If I see that the bulbs are damaged by thrips (because of it, the gladiolus will not bloom), I buy a suitable insecticide, put the corms into bags according to varieties, spray the preparation there and tie it. And after 2-3 days I take them out and put them on the windowsill again. And also, to rid the flowers of diseases, you can hold the corm for 15 minutes in hot water(50-55°C), then rinse in cold water and dry.

Here are some domestic varieties of gladioli that I liked the most:

. "Peacock feather". The flower is green-pink. The edges of the petals are bright pink. There are 21 buds in the inflorescence, 7-8 flowers are open at the same time. Height 140-150 cm, inflorescences - 75 cm.

Peacock feather

. "Czardas". Flower with a diameter of 14.5 cm, strongly corrugated. The color of the flowers varies from milky crimson to bright crimson. Plant height 150 cm, inflorescences - 75 cm.

. "Cranberries in sugar". Flowers 13 cm, pale crimson with a dark cherry spot. Plant height - 170 cm, inflorescences -80 cm. Of 22 flowers, 12 are open at the same time.

Cranberries in sugar

. "Grand Duchess Elizabeth". The flowers are pale salmon with a golden hue, 14.5 cm in diameter, corrugated. Plant height 150 cm, inflorescences - 70 cm. "

Grand Duchess Elizabeth

Dear Olga. We will add to your useful experience for site visitors Additional information how to grow beautiful gladioli.

Gladioli in the budding phase require more phosphorus and potassium. With a sufficient amount of these elements, flowering will be good, and the corm will gain the necessary supply of nutrients. For top dressing, superphosphate (phosphorus) and potassium chloride or potassium sulfate (potassium) are best suited. Fertilizers should be applied in the furrows between the rows in liquid form at the rate of: 25 g/m² of superphosphate and 15 g/m² of potassium chloride or potassium sulfate. Since superphosphate does not dissolve in water, it must be filled with water for a day, and the infusion should be shaken well before being introduced into the soil. Water the plants well before and after fertilizing.

Cut gladioli at the moment of full disclosure of the lower flower in the inflorescence. The rest of the flowers will open gradually in a vase of water over a period of two weeks or more. To make the cut even and neat, you need to use a sharp knife or secateurs. On the plant remaining in the garden, it is supposed to leave as much as possible more leaves(at least four), which will "work" already on the corm.

In order not to damage the leaves remaining on the plant during cutting, you can perform the operation in this way: with a narrow knife sharpened on both sides, pierce the stem at the point where the fourth and fifth leaves diverge, and then, holding the plants with one hand below the puncture, with the other, simply pull out peduncle.

Summer cottage impossible to imagine without flowers. What Russians do not grow to decorate their plots. For example, experienced florist Svetlana Khomchenko from Yaroslavl. She told us how to properly plant gladioli.

“Whatever flowers I have planted in my lifetime - and roses, and carnations, and tulips, - I wrote out from all over the country. But my main love was gladioli. I tested more than 500 varieties, selected the best, disease-resistant and most decorative. And she worked out agricultural technology to the smallest detail. I was even going to write a brochure: Flowers in the country - growing and breeding gladioli.

How to care for gladioli

Over the summer I spend several dressings, I start when the third or fourth leaf appears: first with mullein infusion, then with chicken infusion or a weak infusion of pigeon droppings. After watering and rain, the plants receive another portion. Gladioli can be fed with a chlorophyll extract - fill a 10-bucket barrel with grass, weeds, pour water and add 100 g of caustic soda. A week later, the fertilizer is ready, I throw out the rough stems with a pitchfork, and you can feed all flower and garden crops by diluting 1 liter of infusion in 1 bucket of water.

After the appearance of the fourth leaf, I systematically spray gladioli from pests with chlorophos or karbofos (0.3% solution) with an interval of 10 days or with infusion of garlic or tomato stepchildren. Against diseases, 3 times a season I spray the plants with 0.3% foundationazole.

In autumn, after digging up gladioli, I burn corms with a clear sign of disease, and in healthy ones I cut the stems short, wash them in water, soak them for 20 minutes in a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate and dry them during the day in the wind and sun. Then I dry it for 2-3 weeks for about heating appliances(can be hung in gauze bags). By the end of drying, the old maternal corm is easily removed (if with difficulty, then it is either not dry or sick). A diseased corm must certainly be destroyed in order to avoid infection of healthy ones.

I separate the corms and the baby and store them by grade in paper bags or bags in the coolest place in the apartment or on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. For better preservation, I powder them with naphthalene and foundationazole. Powdered material cannot be stored in the refrigerator, of course.

When and how to plant gladioli

In the spring, a month before planting, I clean the corms of gladioli and lay them out in boxes in one layer. Before planting the corms and the cleaned baby, I soak for 10 hours in a solution of 0.5% succinic acid(growth stimulator), then for 20 minutes in a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate. In both solutions I add 3 g of foundationazole per 1 liter. I plant gladiolus corms in late April - early May, as soon as the soil thaws to the depth of a spade bayonet.

Many people ask me how deep to plant gladioli? With deep planting, the flowers form few children, with shallow planting, they give a large corm and many children. I plant large corms, depending on the soil, to a depth of 12-20 cm according to the scheme 20x25 cm.

Shoots will appear when the threat of frost has passed, during which time the gladioli will form a powerful root system. And vice versa, when late boarding in hot weather the plant develops a green mass without creating a good root system. After the emergence of seedlings, plantings can be mulched with overripe bedding from sawdust from under chickens or chaff.

I pour sand into the planting furrows with a layer of 3-5 cm or put sphagnum moss. Planting in fresh horse manure gives excellent results. Two weeks before planting in the ground, I lay out the cleaned children in 5-6 pieces in film cups. After germination, the cups are planted in the ground with an interval of 25 cm.

Depending on the variety and size of the corms, gladioli bloom in July-September.

Gladiolus in my dacha grow well and tie powerful flower stalks. But the buds, for some reason, only open halfway, and then fade. What's the matter here? (Fyodor Grachev, Lipetsk region)

The most likely reason for this is diseases and pests of gladiolus, primarily gladiolus thrips. This is a small insect, up to 1 mm, which is quite difficult to see with the naked eye. Larvae and adult insects suck juices from the most tender parts of the gladiolus - young growing leaves and bud petals. On the buds affected by numerous punctures, silvery spots form, and with a massive lesion, the buds do not bloom and fade.

How to resist diseases and pests of gladioli?

Thrips overwinters on corms, under covering scales. Therefore, gladioli should be stored at a temperature of 4-6 °. At higher temperatures, thrips wakes up and damages the corm. For the prevention of diseases and pests, before planting, gladioli corms should be kept for 30 minutes in a solution of Decis or Intavir.

During the growing season, gladioli affected by diseases and pests should be repeatedly sprayed with special preparations, starting in June. Aktara gives the greatest effect. Processing must be carried out in a dry and warm weather. Rain will nullify all your efforts, and in cold weather, pests of gladioli are not active.

In autumn, thrips go underground or into covering scales. Therefore, when digging gladioli, the leaves must be immediately cut off, leaving a stump no more than 1 cm, and the old corm should be broken out. Remove all plant debris from the planting site along with leaves and old corms and burn. It is advisable to immediately pickle the corms themselves from thrips, and then send them to dry.

If the fight against diseases and pests of gladioli is not carried out, then the corms are depleted and eventually you will not have flowers.

First of all, you need to carefully consider the bulbs. This is done 3 weeks before their landing. To do this, peel the bulbs from the husk and inspect them. If there are spots, then the bulb is sick with Fusarium or bacterial scab. This one can be healed. For this sharp knife cut out the damaged areas, cover them with brilliant green, let it dry to form a crust. If the bulb has significant damage or is completely dry, it is better to throw it away. Carefully remove the leathery film from each sprout.

Now the planting material must be laid out on a flat container one row high and left in this form for 18 days at room temperature. After all, it was stored in a cool place, this technique will allow the plant to wake up.

After this time, you can start pre-sowing processing. To do this, dilute foundationazole or potassium permanganate in water according to the instructions. The latter should be red. Soak the bulbs in a solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes, and a solution of foundationazole for 20. Then put a layer of cotton wool in an almost flat container, moisten it well with water. Place the bulbs upside down on damp cotton wool for 3 days. Top up periodically as the water dries up. During this time, roots will appear on the bottom, which means it's time to plant gladioli in the ground.

Soil preparation for gladioli

A place for gladioli is prepared 2 weeks before planting. It should be sunny, protected from cold winds. It is good if trees, shrubs or a fence cover the flower bed from the north.

Dig up a piece of land where you plan to grow gladioli. If the place is low, make a high bed, as the bulbs cannot stand stagnant water. They love loose soil, so if it is heavy, clayey, add peat, sand, humus in a ratio of 1:1:3. Level the area with a rake. Leave the flower bed in this form for 2 weeks. After this time, you can start landing.

How to plant gladiolus bulbs

Planting work is carried out from the end of April to the first decade of May, when the soil at a depth of 12 cm warms up to +8 - +10 ° С. Make holes in the prepared bed, for small bulbs the depth is 7, for large ones - 8-10 cm. It should be equal to three bulb heights. The distance between the grooves is 30-35 cm. If during the summer you do not want to fertilize, pour mineral fertilizers directly into the trench - one third of a teaspoon under each bulb. To do this, you can use nitrophoska or a special fertilizer for flowers with trace elements, mixing it well with the soil.

Pour sand into the bottom of the trench with a layer of 2 cm, pour a depression with slightly warm water, put the bulbs in it with the root bottom down. Small ones at a distance of 10, and large ones - 20-25 cm. Carefully, so as not to damage the sprouts, sprinkle the grooves with soil. After a few days, a stalk will appear above the surface of the earth, which will begin to grow rapidly.

Video about planting gladioli:

Caring for gladiolus flowers

After germination, for normal growth, they need evening watering. In the heat, the aisles are shed after 1-2 days, wetting the ground well so that moisture penetrates to the roots. On cool days, plants are rarely watered - once a week. At the same time, it is important to ensure that water does not fall on the leaves, otherwise the plants may be exposed to fungal disease. If cold dews are coming, spill the ground near the gladioli with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

The soil near the gladioli should be loose. Therefore, the next day after watering, it is loosened, at the same time choosing weeds. If you did not fertilize the planting hole, feed the gladioli 3-4 times per season using a solution of nitrophoska or Kemira for flowers.

In mid-July - early August, the plants will bloom, at this time keep the soil around them moist. If worth cold weather, reduce watering to avoid plant fungal infections.

Gladiolus has few enemies from the world of fauna, but they exist. Have a negative impact on appearance plants are slugs, they eat away part of the leaves, which damages the decorative effect. In addition, these pests can gnaw tubers and thereby destroy plants. Therefore, it is necessary to weed out weeds, because they take away some of the nutrients and slugs find refuge in such places. Good results gives the use of drugs against these pests. Scatter the granules "Thunderstorm" or "Meta" around the plant, spending on 1 sq.m. 3 g. You can process no more than 1 time in 20 days. Attention! The drugs are toxic, so it is better not to use them where there are pets and children. In this case, slugs must be dealt with by other means.

Sprinkle salt or mustard powder around the flowers. These spices have a burning effect on the delicate skin of pests and will become a serious obstacle in their path.

Dark beer will also help. Not very deep containers, such as bowls, are buried in the ground (their edges should be at the level of the soil), beer is poured into them to the top. Slugs love this drink. Having come to the smell, they fall into a trap, and they can no longer get out. Almost in the same way they fight with a bear. This pest is dangerous because it gnaws not only the roots, but can bite the young stem. To do this, pour water into a bowl dug into the ground. Feeling thirsty, the pest will fall into the container and also will not get back.

Preparations created from this pest can help get rid of the bear. Their granules are buried in the soil, at a distance of 50 cm from each other, during the planting of the bulbs. If you see the moves when the plants have already sprouted, put 3-4 Medvetoks granules into the move. Spill them with water and cover with soil. The pest, having tasted the bait, will die.

Digging up gladiolus bulbs

As soon as the gladiolus fades, cut off the peduncle with a sharp knife or pruner, leaving the lower leaves and a “stump” of 7-10 cm. If this is not done in time, the plant will direct its force to the formation of seeds, and not to the formation of a large bulb.

From now on, reduce the watering of your gladiolus to every 5-9 days, depending on the weather. For the winter, the tubers must be dug up, otherwise they will simply freeze and die. This is done in early October. Small frosts will not harm the plant, so it is better to let the bulb ripen well and dig them out not earlier than this period.

Before carrying out this operation, do not water the soil around the plant for 10 days, dig the bulb with a shovel. In no case should you pull it out by pulling on the rest of the peduncle, in which case it may break off and the bulb will be damaged. The root bottom may also be torn, such planting material cannot be stored for a long time until spring and will die.

After digging up the gladiolus bulb, remove the soil from it with your hands, in no case shake it and do not knock on the ground. In plants freed from soil, cut off part of the stem, leaving a “stump” of 2-3 cm. Put the gladiolus bulbs to dry for 10-14 days in a dry, warm place.

After that, carefully separate the old withered bulbs from the new bulbs, if it has not fallen off by itself, and the children. You can plant the largest ones next year, then by autumn they will turn into full-fledged bulbs. Store gladiolus planting material in a paper bag by placing it on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. You can put it in a dry cellar, where the temperature is +3 - +5 ° С.

Video on how to dig and store gladioli:

Growing miniature gladioli at home

Not everyone has home gardens where you can grow tall and even giant varieties of gladioli. Miniature varieties can be planted at home by placing them near a window or on a balcony.

For growing, you need a pot with a height of at least 20-25 cm and the same diameter. Pour drainage into its bottom with a layer of 3 cm, fill it with light fertile soil. With a narrow spatula, make a recess equal to three heights of the bulb, pour it with warm water.

In mid-April, prepare gladioli in the same way as before planting in open ground. Place the bulb in the hole, cover with soil. Can be filled immediately flower pot earth not to the top, place the bulb and sprinkle with soil on top.

Place the container in the brightest place in the apartment. If you grow gladioli on a glazed loggia, it is better to hang tulle on the glass and open the windows on hot days. After all, if there is too much heat, the plant will stretch and flowering will be weakened.

For the same reason, you do not need to water the gladiolus flower pot very often, do it when the soil dries out. If you have purchased ready-made land for flowers, which contains mineral fertilizers, then additional feeding is not needed. If you prepared the soil yourself, feed with Kemira's solution for flowers, diluting it according to the instructions, 20 days after germination and during the budding period.

In October, also dig up the bulb, separate the children from it, dry it and store it in the refrigerator until planting.

General video tips for growing gladiolus:

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