The storm sewer scheme is attached to. Do-it-yourself storm sewer installation. Combination of drainage and storm sewers

At proper arrangement, stormwater and drainage in one trench is perfect solution to prevent overheating country house, built on a site with high groundwater - efficient and economical ...

There are many reasons why a house has to be built on a site with high groundwater. But the consequence is always the same - if you do not equip protection against flooding, then every spring water will arrive at the site, erode the soil, foundation and basement of the house.

Helps solve the problem correctly installed system drainage and storm sewers. If the level of groundwater is known even at the stage of buying a site, then it is most profitable to plan the arrangement of drainage and storm water along with the construction of the house itself. In such cases, you can save money and make stormwater and drainage in one trench.

By conducting storm and drainage sewers even at the construction stage, you can get rid of many problems in the future.

Why do we need drainage and storm sewers

The main task of the "stormwater" (i.e. storm system) is to collect, using interconnected gutters and pipes, water from the roof - rain or melt. The storm drain consists of two parts - external (gutters under the roof) and underground (receivers and pipes that drain water from the house). Water from the roof and blind area enters the part that is in the ground, and then it is removed from the site.

Drainage sewerage is needed in order to collect excess water from the ground, i.e. drain it. The main task of drainage is to prevent an increase in the level of groundwater, to prevent flooding of the site.

Since both systems provide for the removal of water into special storage tanks, the combined scheme of drainage and stormwater drainage looks very attractive in terms of functionality and economy. The collected water can be used for technical purposes, such as irrigation.

It is important!"In the same trench" does not mean that the same pipes are used for stormwater and drainage. Such a scheme is strictly prohibited for the reason that during seasonal increases in the amount of precipitation, the storm drain systematically overflows. If the same pipe works as a drainage pipe, then at best the drainage will temporarily stop functioning.

Drainage and storm sewers: varieties of these systems and their features

The systems have a completely different structure, of similar elements only pipes and wells. At the same time, they differ not only in structure, but also in the method of installation.

Drainage sewerage (closed type)

It is located only underground, respectively, refers to the closed type of sewer systems. The only elements that are partially located above the surface are wells.

There are several factors that determine whether a site needs drainage system or not. It is done in such cases:

if the site is located high enough aquifer;

the soil is clayey or loamy;

in the area where the site is located, floods often occur;

a deep foundation is being built;

The site is located in a lowland.

If one of these conditions is met, then most likely without drainage there will be problems with flooding or high humidity of the basement and foundation.

The drainage system consists of the following elements:

Drains(drainage pipes for sewerage, made of geotextile and perforated, through which water enters the drainage).

Sand traps(do not allow pipes to become clogged with frequent ingress of silt and sand).

System drainage system. Leads water cleared of silt and sand directly into drainage wells.

Multiple types wells.

After the wells, where the water is purified, it enters the common reservoir, and then it is either used for personal needs or discharged into the sewage system.

Materials from which drains are made:

Plastic. Durable, not very expensive, very strong and resistant to low temperatures.

It looks like a plastic drainage intermediate well

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

asbestos cement. Cheap, but very short-lived - after a few years on asbestos-cement pipes growths may appear.

Ceramics. Before the advent of plastic, ceramic was the best option.

Standards pipes:

marking SN 2-4 (depth up to 3 meters);

marking SN 6 and what goes higher for depths up to 5 meters.

Video description

An example of the arrangement of the drainage system is shown in the video:

Storm sewer device (open type)

"Shower" consists of two parts - upper and lower. The system includes:

gutters, into which water enters from the roof, and which lead it further;

funnels and vertical pipes. Water enters the funnels and further, through vertical pipes, it enters the lower part of the "storm drain";

clamps to strengthen pipes when they are connected;

tees and elbows, which connect horizontal and vertical pipes to each other, a funnel can also be attached there;

wells.

The system is assembled as a constructor, it is necessary to draw up a drawing of the system, carefully fasten the parts and get a ready-made storm sewer.

Most often for gutters are used such materials:

galvanized iron;

plastic (PVC).

What the storm drain will be made of is selected depending on the device of the house, its architecture and the material from which the roof is made. It is possible to supplement the gutters with nets and an anti-icing cable so that ice does not clog the water outlet in spring.

Arrangement anti-icing system on the roof of the house

For the manufacture of intermediate and main wells, the following materials are used:

PVC(expensive, but very effective option);

brick and stone(durable, but should be properly assembled);

Reinforced concrete rings(difficult to install);

Their design is exactly the same as that of a closed drainage.

Combination of storm and drainage sewers

The entire system is installed in one trench. The scheme of drainage and storm sewers on the site is quite simple. Through the nodal tee, water from the outside and from the inside (precipitation and groundwater) will enter the drainage well.

Drainage pipes run throughout the site, collect water and then it is discharged into wells, where it is pumped out of the site by a pump. In the “storm drain”, water is collected and discharged into a collector drain, after which, through the well mentioned above, it enters the main pipe system, which exists independently from the drainage, but in one trench (perforation is not needed for the storm system). Through the system of main pipes, water enters the bypass well, in which, as well as in the drainage, it is pumped out by a pump.

Usually the main well is located at the lowest point of the site and water has to be pumped out of it with a pump

Connecting the storm and drainage systems is very beneficial, all that is required is a wide trench, all that is needed is to designate a place for a diversion line in which the water from both systems will go in different ways so that they are not overloaded.

Through the nodal tee, water from the outside and from the inside (precipitation and groundwater) will enter the drainage well.

The principle of operation of drainage and storm sewers

Storm sewerage: point drainage system. Point elements are needed to collect precipitation, whether it be rain, melted snow, melted hail. Water can be sent through the gutters to the drainage system, and then sent to special ditches with gratings, through which water will be removed from the site. It is very important when the building is located on a slope, since when choosing the right angle, it will not be necessary to build additional gutters, but to drain water directly into the ditches.

With linear drainage, water is discharged through gutters, funnels into a special main system consisting of pipes that are suitable for drainage and storm sewers. Further along this main system, the effluents enter the collector, and then, depending on the project, the water may go into the reservoir, or maybe beyond the site.

In deep drainage, water from rising groundwater, gradually separate parts is discharged into the well, and from there it is pumped out and discharged. Such a system has 3 types:

Horizontal;

Vertical;

Wall mounted. If the house has a basement or ground floor, it is required to divert groundwater from them. Copes most effectively wall drainage- a moisture collector is arranged near the walls, and the wall itself is carefully waterproofed.

Care and instructions for use

Both systems require regular inspection and cleaning of silt, sand, clay and other debris. Seasonal inspections are required - in late autumn, when the rainy season ends, and in late winter, to ensure that the culvert is not affected. Despite various filters, sand traps and nets for debris, dirt still gets inside. They are everywhere: in pipes, gutters and wells. If left untreated, the system will simply clog up and stop functioning.

Timely cleaning of the pipes of the drainage and storm water disposal system in the country will avoid many problems

To clean the pipe, it is enough to turn on the pump for maximum power and run ordinary water from a hose through the pipes, it will collect all the dirt and bring it to the well. Water can be poured into the gutters and it will also collect all the dirt and then go through the vertical pipes. The stronger the pressure, the more dirt and debris will go away.

Already in the pump, all the water is pumped out even more powerful pump or ilosos, when all the water runs out, it will be necessary to clean the walls. Most often, flushing ends with this, but if the system has not been looked after for a long time, it happens that you have to manually clean the walls and bottom of the well with a scraper. Therefore, regular cleaning is essential to keep both systems running stably.

Rules for installing a dual system

Competent installation of the combined system must be carried out according to a pre-created project, which indicates the nuances regarding the connection to the site and the synchronization of the operation of the wells, so that both drainage and “storm water” work properly both in normal mode and during overload.

During installation, the following nuances must be taken into account:

The arrangement of the drainage system is quite an expensive pleasure. If something goes wrong and after a few years the drainage stops working, then you will have to spend no less money on its restoration than on a new one, especially considering that you will have to “pick open” landscape design. As a result, the arrangement of drainage should be handled by professionals.

During the flood period, each of the systems will be overloaded. Since they collect moisture from different sources, drains must be laid for each system separately. You can do this in the same trench, but at different depths. A public well can be used to collect water.

When digging trenches for drains, you should definitely take into account that the bottom of the pit will be covered with rubble and sand. This means that if it is necessary to place a drain at a certain depth, the hole must be dug deeper to the thickness of the layers of sand and gravel.

The pit for the well of the drainage system must be deep enough

Usually, water is collected in a reservoir (pit or reservoir), from where it is used for technical needs or pumped into water bodies or simply away from the site. If perforated pipes are used for drainage, then the outlet pipes are always solid. When combining them in one trench vertically, perforated ones are laid from below, and ordinary ones from above.

If the main pipes and drains are combined horizontally in the trench, then they are laid in parallel, at a small distance from each other (so that if the main pipe is damaged, water from there does not enter the drainage system and does not overload it).

Video description

About the installation of the storm system and drainage in the following video:

Conclusion

Combined system drainage and storm sewer is not only effective tool to get rid of the flooding of the site, but also a fairly advantageous offer, as it will simplify the system and save when purchasing many additional elements. It turns out that the integrity of the foundation will be preserved and money will be saved on waterproofing and arranging both sewers separately.

Sometimes for a summer resident, the long-awaited rain at the height of the season becomes a real disaster. As a result of a protracted summer downpour, as well as during a spring flood, a real lake can form on the site.

In order to avoid stagnation of water, a system for collecting and removing it from the territory is needed. If a storm sewer is built with your own hands, then the cost of its construction will be minimal.

In the article presented for review, the principle of the atmospheric water removal system is described in detail, the components of the structure are described. We will tell you how best to build it and how to maintain it. Taking into account our advice, the organization of storm water will not cause the slightest difficulty.

Storm sewers are a specific design. The water discharged through this system contains both small and large debris. Therefore, in the stormwater must be primary cleaning.

The system may differ in the volume of water that it is able to accept, design, duration of effective operation.

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Based on the design of the system, 3 types of stormwater can be distinguished:

open. Has the most simple design, easy to perform, inexpensive.
Closed. This option is more complex. Here you have to deal with underground pipes, storm water inlets. The system must be planned in advance, and the installation will be better done by a specialist.
Mixed. Choose when there is not enough money to implement option 2, and also if you need to cover large area. It is something in between the first two.

Storm sewers of the first type are made in the form of drainage trays built into the coating. Through them, water enters a specially designated place or simply merges into the garden. The system of the second type is located below the zero point, which involves a considerable amount of excavation work and corresponding financial investments.

Surface drainage can fit perfectly into the landscape design of the cottage, and even become its decoration. Use the system in small areas

Such a storm drain is equipped mainly during the development of the site, since this is a simpler freezing version. The system is not buried very deep - up to a maximum of a meter, but both in winter and in early spring it is not involved in the work.

So that the sewer does not freeze, the pipes are buried below the freezing point. With the third type of storm water, the sewage elements are partially located both above and in the soil.

Experts say that the choice of such expensive option‚ like a closed storm drain‚ must be justified. Such a decision can be justified high demands to the design of the territory

Stormwater design is always individual. It is unlikely that there will be sites with absolutely similar conditions. They will always differ, if not in relief, then in layout, soil properties, and the number of outbuildings.

Storm drains are needed both at the enterprise and in private property. The difference in their design lies in the fact that large-scale systems are combined with the discharge of treated water, which is used for the needs of the enterprise.

The main elements of a classic sewer

Storm sewerage is point and linear. The first option involves collecting water from surfaces that do not absorb moisture, such as roofs, hard-surfaced areas. Further, the effluents follow into the receiving tanks, and after that they enter the drainage system.

With a linear method of wastewater disposal, water is drained into trays located near paths and platforms. A simplified version of the storm sewer consists of the following elements:

a central pipe laid under a layer of earth and finishing coating and leading the collected water to extreme point scheme;
trays - main part a system that transports excess water to sand traps; the efficiency of the drainage system largely depends on them;
a storm water inlet located under a pipe or a low point in the yard to collect liquid;
filters and distributors - invisible, but extremely important components.

All elements included in the system are equally important. If any of them fails, the efficiency of the entire structure decreases.

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Types of storm water inlets for sewerage

The purpose of the storm water inlet is to collect moisture coming from pipes, yard cover. This element is the first to take over the entire volume of water coming from the downpipes. When choosing a storm water inlet, they are guided by such data as the average volume of precipitation, their intensity, relief, and the area occupied by storm sewers.

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You can buy a cast-iron or plastic storm water inlet. The former are preferable in the case of heavy loads, while the latter are attractive due to their moderate cost, light weight, and simplifies installation. More cheap option- make a storm water well for storm sewers at your dacha with your own hands from brick.

The walls of the pit are lined with brick, leaving a hole for the pipe, then plastered from the inside. Better yet, leave a gap between the wall of soil and the cover and fill it with concrete. The bottom of the storm water inlet must be concreted.

Not a single stormwater can do without a storm water inlet. It preserves both the foundation of the building and the covering around it. If you try to save on its installation, then the water that gets on the foundation will lead to shrinkage and cracks on the walls of the building

Do this important element and from concrete rings. Then the lower ring can be purchased with a ready-made bottom and you do not have to fill the stove. Sometimes factory storm water inlets go on sale complete with a basket‚ siphon‚ decorative grille.

Most often used for private construction, storm water inlets made of plastic or composite materials they are produced in the form of a cube, in which each side is 30 -40 cm. There are adapters for the tie-in pipes from below and from all sides of the product.

Grates for storm water inlets can be of different quality and cost. You should always proceed from the expected loads on them during operation.

In order not to clog the pipes with debris that enters through the grate cells, the storm water inlets are equipped with baskets. As soon as they are full, they are taken out and cleaned, then returned to their place.

The design of the factory storm water inlet provides for partitions dividing it inner space on compartments and creating a water seal. As a result bad smell from decaying organic matter does not penetrate outside.

The efficiency of a point storm water inlet depends not only on its volume, but also on the installation location. It should be located under a drain or in a place where moisture constantly collects. If it is installed under the pipe, then the jets must hit the center of the grate exactly, otherwise some of the water will fall on the foundation or yard cover in the form of splashes.

Why are sandboxes needed?

Rain and melt water in any case contains a certain percentage of insoluble particles. If sand traps are not included in the scheme, dirt will settle in the sewer, and it will cease to function in in full. Flushing the system is expensive.

A sand trap is a chamber installed behind point receivers in places where water is discharged into underground pipes. It is designed so that the flow of water, getting into it, reduces the speed.

As a result, under the influence of gravity, suspended particles sink to the bottom, and the liquid released from them leaves through a special hole. In terms of shape, the sand catcher is a trap with a plurality of chambers located horizontally or a chamber in a vertical design.

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What are drainage channels?

How to choose pipes?

For storm sewers, according to SNiP, pipes made of metal, asbestos or plastic can be used. Most often, for a private house and a summer residence, the choice is stopped at. They are light, decorative, do not corrode, their installation is simple, but mechanical strength material‚ compared to metal‚ small.

Having chosen the material, you need to decide on the diameter of the pipes.

The initial value is the largest volume of discharged rainwater and melt water. This parameter is determined by the formula:

Q=q20×F×Ψ

Here: Q is the desired volume‚ q20 is the coefficient characterizing the intensity of precipitation for 20 seconds. (l per second per 1 ha). F is the area of the courtyard in ha, if the roof is pitched, the area is calculated on a horizontal plane. Ψ is the absorption coefficient.

Different surfaces have their own absorption coefficient. To perform independent calculations, its value can be taken from the table

Based on the calculated value and using the Lukin tables, they find not only the diameter but also the slope of the system.

Most often, domestic storm sewers are performed using pipes with a diameter of 100 mm. Optimal slope drains can be taken from this table

With the right selection of pipe diameters, storm sewers will cope with the task even at the moments of the most heavy rainfall. If flows from several chutes enter the pipe, they are all summed up. Professional practitioners for pipes with a cross section of 110 mm and gutters of the same diameter usually use a slope of 20 mm / rm. M.

If the pipe is connected to a storm water inlet, the slope is slightly increased to avoid stagnation of the liquid, and at the entrance to the sand trap, the slope is reduced. This slows down the movement of the water flow, and suspended particles settle to the bottom in larger quantities.

Water in this type of sewer system drains by gravity, which occurs due to the formed. There are no pressure pumps here, so it is not necessary to look for a team of professionals in a country house or in a country courtyard for a storm sewer device.

All work can be done by the owner. It is written in detail about the calculations for the organization of storm sewers, the contents of which we recommend that you familiarize yourself with.

Where is the well and collector needed?

As with any system consisting of underground pipes, there must be a well in the storm sewer.

Installing it is advisable in the following circumstances:

if 2 or more streams converge;
when it is necessary to radically change the height, direction of the pipeline or its slope;
when it becomes necessary to switch to a larger pipe diameter.

Wells are also provided at established intervals of straight sections of the system. If the diameter of the well does not exceed 150 mm, then the next one is located at a distance of 30 to 35 m. With a diameter of 200 mm - from 45 to 50 m, and if the diameter is 0.5 m, the interval is increased to 70-75 m.

The diameter of the well of a private house does not exceed 1 m. The deeper the well, the larger its diameter should be.

Some owners lay out wells in the old fashioned way from brick or reinforced concrete rings. Others prefer more advanced materials - plastic and fiberglass. According to the design, the wells are collapsible and solid.

They are in the form of a cylinder with a completely sealed bottom and a hole at the top. There are branch pipes for connecting pipes. Several collected storm water inlets are also used as wells.

All fluid flows are redirected to the collector after they are combined into one. The choice of material for this storm sewer element is individual and depends on the preferences and capabilities of the owner.

To redirect the collected water to ground treatment facilities or to gutter collector is included in the system. Sometimes his role is played by a big one. It is converted into a storage tank by hermetically closing the outlet nozzles. To use water, a submersible pump is used.

Under the collector, pipes of large cross section are also used - reinforced concrete or plastic with all pipelines connected to them. On the construction market, you can also purchase ready-made containers for underground use. There are multi-chamber tanks where rain and melt water are cleaned according to the same principle as in septic tanks.

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How to install a storm drain?

Storm water is installed using the same technology as a conventional sewer system. In any case, the installation of a storm sewer system is preceded by a calculation, selection necessary materials. Before getting into the pipes, rainwater is collected on the roof of the house, so it is logical that the construction of a drainage system begins with top point buildings.

Spot drainage of rain and melt water

The first step is the marking of the pipeline, consisting of channels, receivers, wells. Pegs are driven in at the locations of all elements. To see the full picture, a cord is laid between the pegs. The second stage is digging a trench and small recesses for storm water inlets. At the bottom suit sand cushion.

If there is a threat of root germination in the places where the pipeline is laid, the bottom is covered with geotextiles. The installation process begins with the installation of wells‚ collectors.

Further, smaller elements - storm water inlets, sand traps, trays. All this is combined with pipes of the estimated diameter under a slope selected from the table or recommended by SNiP. When laying the pipeline, sagging is unacceptable.

The assembled structure is tested. Water is poured onto each section to check the tightness of the joints. The amount of water poured in and out should be approximately the same. A defect such as sagging may be detected, as indicated by a significant difference in the volume of water at the inlet and outlet.

If the tests do not reveal any problems, the system is covered with a sand-cement layer and soil. Sometimes some parts of the storm sewer are combined with the drainage system. In this case, the pipes of the first must be on top of the second pipeline, but they can approach one collector.

It is impossible to allow the combination of storm sewers with ordinary household sewers. This can lead to an overload of the second with all the negative consequences.

Let's take an example of the construction of a storm sewer with point water intakes. It was built from ordinary sewer pipes. The reason was the stagnation of water on the surface, formed due to the practical absence of infiltration into the ground, associated with the clay structure of soils.

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We will assume that we laid the highways properly with a slope, connected taps to them, observing the tightness of the connections. Tightness in this case is needed not to protect the enclosing soil from rainwater, but to prevent sand from entering the system.

Let's continue the work, now we have to connect the storm drain to the pipe leading to the absorbing well:

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Photo from We connect to the assembled node sewer pipe, which will bring water to the filter well

We lay the outlet pipe in a trench designed for it with a slope. We lead it to the absorbing well. In fact, with observance of the slope, we cut the outlet pipe into the wall of the absorber

Prevention of malfunctions of storm sewers

Having installed the storm sewer of a private house or cottage on your own, you should not forget that it needs constant care. Preventive measures also include point storm water inlets from the debris that has settled in them.

If you neglect this procedure, the system will definitely fail. Perfect option- use of the system all year round.

Self-regulating cable is able to heat a large area. The basis of its design is a semiconductor matrix, located between two copper wires. Such a cable will prevent freezing of any pipes during a period of temperature drop.

In the cold season, thaws occur during which water from the canals and pipes enters. Then it moves into the storm sewer,

where, when frozen, it turns to ice.

To prevent the formation of ice plugs in the storm drain, they are brought into storm water inlets located under the drainpipes. So in a heated system, ice jams will not be created, and if they form, it will be possible to quickly get rid of them.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

You will learn about the purpose, device and consequences of a stormwater failure from the video:

The process of installing a storm sewer will not seem so complicated after viewing this material:

Although storm sewers are complex engineering system‚ its creation is within the power of even a person who is not burdened with deep knowledge in construction business. It is worth following all the advice exactly and the storm sewer around a private house will work flawlessly.

Please write your comments in the box below. Tell us about your own experience in organizing a storm sewer system. Ask questions, share your impressions of reading and useful information for site visitors, leave a photo on the topic.

Your favorite shoes are probably familiar with the delights of a poorly functioning urban stormwater system. Often, after a “dense” meeting with deep puddles accumulated on the asphalt, adored shoes and boots leave only pleasant memories and photographs about themselves. For a city dweller, the loss of shoes is the maximum damage; for the owner of a country house, the damage is on a larger scale. In order for atmospheric water to slowly but persistently not destroy the foundation, flood the basements, and not contribute to the rotting of the root system of plants on the site, water drainage is required. A not too complicated do-it-yourself storm sewer may well be organized by a performer who has nothing to do with construction specialties.

The purpose and specifics of the stormwater device

Storm sewage is a complex of devices and channels that collects, filters and removes atmospheric moisture into filtration fields, special reservoirs, and reservoirs. Its task is to eliminate excess moisture that creates discomfort, destroys structures and reduces life cycle plants.

Livnevka is a linear network that includes such standard elements, as:

storm water inlets, represented by funnels, pallets, linear trays that collect water;
gutters, pipes, trays transporting water to sand traps - filtration devices, and further to collectors, ditches, reservoirs, to discharge fields;
manholes required to control the storm system;

filters, sand traps that retain soil particles, plant fibers and debris that protect the network from pollution.

Stormwater is a complex of channels and devices that collect excess atmospheric moisture, filter it and drain it first to a collector well, then to unloading points.

Options for storm water inlets: on the left is a door tray, in the middle is a funnel that receives water from the drain, on the right is a gutter with a sand trap

All elements are combined into complete system, working on linear or point technology. If storm sewer channels are laid in the ground, pipes are used for their construction. Gutters and trays made of plastic, asbestos or concrete are installed in surface ditches.

Important. To ensure the natural movement of rain and melt water to the places of filtration and unloading, pipes, trays, gutters are laid with a slope towards the catchment devices and unloading points.

Classification according to the method of collecting wastewater

Depending on the principle of collection, according to which the storm sewer is installed, all existing storm drains are divided into two types.

atmospheric water

specifications

Point type of storm water: the storm water inlet is installed under the drain, the water-receiving funnel is equipped with a filter mesh and an internal litter basket

open way

dot pattern

roof gutters

The linear scheme of stormwater can cover large area, to divert drains not only from the roof, but also from landscaped areas, from sidewalks, and from those sides of the house where, due to the specifics of the pitched structure, there are no drains

Focusing on design differences and the degree of coverage of the territory, the type of system is selected. However, these are not fundamental selection criteria. Basically, storm sewers in the country are arranged according to the experience in the organization and operation of storm sewers available in a particular area. Based on it, they determine both the type of channeling and the depth of their laying.

Preliminary calculations and design

Implementation of plans without calculations is money down the drain. If the system does not cope with the function entrusted to it by the owner, you should not undertake its construction at all, and a too powerful storm sewer of a private house will “eat up” a lot of financial resources.

Video: design and installation rules

Information required for calculations

Data on the average amount of precipitation recorded by meteorologists in a particular area. You can find them in SNiP 2.04.03-85.
The frequency of rains, the thickness of the snow cover, necessary for those who plan to use the system and for the removal of melt water.
Runoff area. For a point variety, this is the area of \u200b\u200bthe roof. And not the full value, but the value of its projection in the plane. For a linear system, the runoff area will be the sum of the areas of all processed objects.
Physical and mechanical characteristics of the soils available on the site.
The presence and location of communications already existing on the site laid underground.

Calculation of the volume of discharged effluents

The above exact values for the amount and intensity of precipitation are the result of many years of research. physical phenomena in the atmosphere of the area. They can be found in SNiP or obtained from the local weather service. Further calculations are made according to the formula.

The formula for calculating the flow of atmospheric water, as well as the constants and variables used in the calculations

Correction factor used in this formula:

0.4 for gravel-covered areas;
0.85 for concreted areas;
0.95 for paved areas and paths;
1.0 for roofs.

We got the value of the volume, then according to the tables current SNiP the required diameter of the pipeline is determined.

Channeling depth

It is necessary to lay trays or channels from pipes at the depth at which they are usually laid in this region. The exact value can be found in construction organization or ask the neighbors who have already equipped their site with a stormwater drain. AT middle lane a rainwater drainage system is usually arranged at a depth of 0.3 meters, if the diameter of the pipeline or open trays is not more than 50 cm. Trays and pipes with larger dimensions are buried by 0.7 m.

An important point. If the site has a drainage system, storm sewers are laid above the drainage.

If a drainage system has already been laid on the territory, the storm drain is located above

high cost earthworks usually does not stimulate the desire of customers professional installation deep into the ground. Even if it is decided to make a storm sewer with your own hands, there is no point in burying it too deeply. There is no reason to install collectors and manholes below the level of seasonal freezing, as state standards say. They can be placed higher, insulated heat-insulating material- geotextile and a layer of crushed stone that protects the network from freezing. Due to the slight deepening, the labor intensity of the work is significantly reduced.

Insulation of storm sewers in case of slight deepening is carried out from a layer of geotextile and a layer of crushed stone, thanks to the protection of channels from freezing, you can significantly save on earthworks

However, one should not forget that the channels to the collection and cleaning devices must be led at an angle. This means that the level of the place of entry into the collector well should be lower than the level of the tray or pipe extending from the storm water inlet. To accurately calculate the depth of their installation, you need to draw a site plan and, taking into account the slope of the channels, calculate everything.

Scheme of the stormwater device, the channels of which are laid below the freezing depth, insulating geotextile protects in this case from the aggression of groundwater

Standards and norms of slopes

GOST regulates the minimum slope for pipes with a 150 mm diameter of 0.008 (slope in mm / m). Pipes having a cross section of 200 mm are laid at an angle of 0.007. Depending on site conditions, pipe slopes may vary slightly. The largest slope is 0.02 in the area where the channel is connected to the storm water inlet, since in this place it is necessary to increase the rate of gravity of the water. In front of the sand traps, the flow velocity must slow down so that the suspended particles can “settle”, the angle of inclination is the smallest there.

Devices for collecting water in envelope-type systems with funnel storm water inlets are installed at the points of intersection of slopes.

The process and specifics of the installation of stormwater

Rules for holding installation work according to the arrangement of storm drains, they are identical to the principles of laying conventional external sewer pipelines. However, if the house is not equipped with gutters, you need to start with their device.

The rules for installing a storm drain system are similar to the rules for laying a conventional sewer

Construction of the roofing component

In the ceilings of the house, you need to make holes for storm water inlets. After installing the devices and attaching them to bituminous mastic joints must be sealed.
Installed sewer pipes and risers.
All elements must be attached to the structures of the house using clamps.

Scheme of the roofing part of the storm drain: 1. gutter; 2. outside corner of the gutter; 3. the corner of the gutter is internal; 4. gutter plug; 5. gutter connector; 6. hook; 7. hook; 8. funnel; 9. catchment funnel; 10. pipe elbow; 11. drainpipe; 12. connecting pipe; 13. pipe bracket (for brick); 14. pipe bracket (for wood); 15. drain elbow; 16. pipe tee

Underground device

According to the planned plan, drawn up taking into account the slopes and the depth of the canals adopted in the region, it is necessary to dig a trench. If it is planned to insulate the pipeline by forming a shell of geotextile and crushed stone around it, or to arrange a pillow of sand, their power should also be taken into account. Here's how we proceed:

The bottom of the trench is well rammed before installation. Encountered while digging large stones removed, the pits formed after their removal are covered with soil.
A sand cushion is poured to the bottom, its standard thickness is 20 cm.
A pit is being formed for the installation of a collector tank. As a collector, it is easiest to use ready-made plastic container, but if you wish, you can make a collector well yourself by pouring concrete into a formwork arranged in advance.

Pipes are laid in compacted and equipped with sand cushions ditches to connect them into single system fittings are used.

Connections of underground drainage channels are made using fittings

It is recommended to include manholes in straight branches of storm water, with a length of more than 10 m.
Sand traps should be installed at the junction points of atmospheric water-receiving collectors and pipelines.
All devices and fixtures are connected in one circuit, the junctions of the components are sealed.

Before backfilling the trench, it is necessary to carry out tests by pouring water into the water inlets. Not found during testing weaknesses? We fill the system laid in the trench with soil, and equip the gutters, trays, pallets with gratings.

Before backfilling the trench, the constructed system must be checked, identified and eliminated all defects and leaks, if any.

Advice. pitched roof structures not equipped with drains on all sides. Where they do not exist, it is recommended to install gutters with gratings and include them in the general network.

It is forbidden to unload the city collector well into the general sewer network due to the presence of chemicals and oil products in the effluents. The owner of a country house can freely connect a storm drain to the sewerage system that is his property, because dangerous components that require fine cleaning it doesn't.

After cleaning in the sand trap, the water enters the sewer, from there it can be distributed directly into the ground, unloaded into water bodies or into the ordinary sewer network of a private house

Landscaping the house and the surrounding area with a surface drainage system will help extend the life of structures, save owners from puddles and slush, and prevent plant roots from rotting. A simple do-it-yourself stormwater site can be installed by the owner himself, but even if you contact the builders, information about the specifics of its organization will not interfere. The owner himself will be able to track the violations, and repair, and clean.

Any private house constantly exposed to atmospheric precipitation. If, in addition, the soil on the site has clay impurities, then constantly muddy soil and puddles standing in the yard will not add aesthetics to your home. Storm sewers in a private house can cope with the problem of rainwater drainage. It is quite possible to build it yourself, at the beginning of building a house. Or lay it purposefully, near an already built house, if such work has not been carried out in due time.

The main purpose of storm water in a private house is to collect and then drain melt and rainwater from the house and from the site to special catchment devices, to water bodies, to a deep drainage system, outside the site or to the general sewer system. In addition to collecting, a well-mounted storm drain in a private house with its own hands is able to purify the water that has got into it from impurities and sand. The water leaving the system is sufficiently clean and does not pollute the surrounding areas.

As a device for surface drainage, storm water protects the buildings standing on the site from movement and destruction. If the soil on the site is constantly wet, then the impact on the foundation of multidirectional skew vectors will affect its strength. As a result of this, subsidence, tilting of the house, and the appearance of cracks on its walls are possible.

Main components of the system

The device of a storm sewer in a private house assumes the presence of the following elements in its composition:

located on the surface or channels closed type located underground. Installed taking into account the slope towards the water collectors. Through them, water enters the water collectors or is discharged directly outside the site.
storm water inlets. They are designed to collect water flowing from the roofs of buildings. The most suitable places for their installation are under downpipes. Storm water inlets are made of plastic or polymer concrete in the form rectangular containers of various sizes and are equipped with a basket for collecting various debris that enters with water. From them, water passes through a system of channels into water reservoirs;
door pallets;
manholes. They are designed for routine inspections and cleaning of channels and pipelines in case of clogging. As a rule, they are equipped at the junctions of the channels and at their intersections, since it is in these places that the risk of clogging of the channels is most likely;
serve to collect particulate matter located in the water flowing through the channels. Installed on surface storm drains;
collector well designed to collect and then filter water into the soil.

Types of storm sewers

Stormwater in a private house can be linear, spot, and also mixed. Each of these types differs in its structure and purpose.

Linear (open type) sewerage

This system easy to make and quite effective. It is a network of surface metal, concrete or. Water enters these channels through downpipes, heading to the general sewer or special tanks. From above, the gutters are covered with gratings that protect them from debris, and also perform decorative functions. Separate gutters are joined together with a sealant in order to prevent the penetration of water between the joints.

Read also: and its characteristics.

Such a storm sewer in the country or in country house has a greater coverage, it collects water from paths, sidewalks, various sites, and not just from roofs.

The photo shows an example of a storm sewer open type from drainage trays with gratings

Tip: When laying an open-type storm sewer with your own hands, the slope of all gutters must be taken into account. Otherwise, despite the presence of surface channels, water will not drain through them, but will cover the entire area, not having time to go into the water collectors.

Point (closed type) sewerage

If the choice fell on the storm sewer scheme in a private house point type, then all water intake pipelines should be located underground. Water flowing down the pipes from the roofs enters the storm water inlets closed by gratings, and from them into underground channels. Through them, water is diverted to the places intended for it or simply drains outside the boundaries of the site.

Advice: Since the laying of underground communications presents the complexity of design and construction, its arrangement should be carried out only at the stages of developing projects for the house itself. Later it will be almost impossible to do such work.

Mixed sewer

This type of sewage is resorted to in cases where it is necessary to save on labor or financial costs. This system can include both open-type elements and components of a point sewer system.

Volume, Depth and Slope Calculation

If you want your house and site to be reliably protected from flooding, silting and dirty rainwater flows, it is necessary to correctly calculate and lay down storm sewers in the project. The main calculation of storm sewers is to ensure that all water entering the territory equipped with storm drains leaves without a trace in the places allotted to it and is regulated by SNiP 2.04.03-85.

Channeling Depth Calculation

If the cross section of underground pipelines does not exceed 0.5 m, then they are buried to a level of 30 cm. With large diameter channels, the depth of storm sewers in a private house increases up to 70 cm.

If it has already been laid on the site, then the storm sewer in a private house is located above this system.

Tip: It is recommended that all elements be buried to the level of soil freezing, but in practice they can be located closer to the surface, providing them with insulation by filling a layer of crushed stone and laying geotextiles. This will reduce the cost and labor intensity of earthworks.

Calculation of the volume of wastewater discharged from the site

To calculate the volume of waste, you must be guided by the following formula: Q=q20 x F x ¥, where:

Q - the volume that must be diverted from the site;
q20 is the amount of precipitation. These data can be obtained from the weather service or taken from the same SNiP 2.04.03-85;
F is the area from which water will be discharged. With a point system, the projection of the roof area onto a horizontal plane is taken. In the case of linear system equipment, all areas involved in drainage are taken into account;
¥ is a coefficient that takes into account the coating material that the site is equipped with or the house is covered with:

- 0.4 - crushed stone or gravel;

- 0.85 - concrete;

- 0.95 - asphalt;

- 1 - roof.

Calculation of the required channel slope

A properly selected slope guarantees the free flow of water through pipelines under the influence of physical laws. The required slope of the storm sewer is determined depending on the diameter of the pipes used. If the pipes have a diameter of 20 cm, then a factor of 0.007 is taken into account. That is, 7 mm per linear meter of pipe. With a diameter of 15 cm, the coefficient will be 0.008.

The slope of the channels in an open system ranges from 0.003-0.005 (this is 3-5 mm). But the pipes connected to storm water inlets and storm wells should have a slope of 2 cm per linear meter.

Storm drain installation

Before starting work, you need to make sure that the house is equipped with water collection and drainage systems (downpipes, risers and gutters).

Storm sewer is a system for collecting and discharging sewage. If we consider such a system on the site (it can also be installed around the house), then this is not just drainage, but a whole network of branches that collect, filter and accumulate water that fills the yard suburban area. If there is no storm drain, then all atmospheric precipitation will flow to the house, gradually destroying the foundation and the adjacent area. ", You can see in our article."

The standard storm sewer scheme is quite simple: a system of ground / underground channels that intersect with each other in several places. The points of intersection are called water collectors.

Designed in parallel with l ivne sewer. Arrangement is also desirable to carry out at the same time. Drainage and storm elements deep system placed parallel to each other (in case of too deep foundation and laying of drainage pipes, a storm drain is mounted around the perimeter of the house above the drains).

Today we will look at how a do-it-yourself storm sewer is installed, what is the principle of its operation and what elements it consists of.

Advantages of a storm drain

Such a system is capable of simultaneously receiving and removing precipitation.
Its components are relatively inexpensive.
The installation of the system is extremely simple.
Regular cleaning of the system is carried out quickly and without the use of any special tools.
There are practically no intersections and corners in the storm drain, due to which the probability of its clogging is low.
Minimum ground work during installation.
Drainage is carried out in the shortest way.

What does it consist of?

There are several elements of storm sewers, consider them.

Chutes and trays. These are special paths and channels located on the site, through which melted or rainwater flows into drainage wells.
installed near the porch of the house, designed to collect runoff from the roof and its further transportation to the channels. Pallets can be light plastic, and heavy . All products are marked according to the margin of safety and purpose (laying on roadway, on a private plot, etc.).
Sand traps mounted between the receiving well and the channels, their main function is to trap debris and prevent it from entering the sewer.
Storm pipes(usually made of high strength polypropylene with a smooth inner surface and corrugated outer). Gets into them from the ground excess moisture and moves to the destination. Storm pipes (optimum diameter 110 mm) are connected by means of tees, couplings, flexible bends.
collectors designed to collect moisture from storm sewers (the very end point of the system). Collectors can be self-made (for example, made of concrete) or industrial production(e.g. from Wavin)
Storm wells. Their main purpose is to provide access to the collector for periodic maintenance. However, occasionally storm wells are installed not as a revision element, but as a replacement for the collector.

Now let's look at how storm sewers work. There are two types of it - superficial and deep.

Surface drainage

Surface, in turn, can be point and linear. feature point catchment is that storm water inlets are installed next to the taps for watering the garden and near the drain bends. The storm water inlet is a box into which water enters from the pipes. In the storm water inlet there is often a special basket that holds all the garbage in the drains. The basket is cleaned and garbage is disposed of after it has been removed.

Sometimes storm water inlets are connected to sewer system. In such cases, it is necessary to install siphon partitions that protect against unpleasant odors. A grate is placed on the storm water inlet. It can be metal, plastic, etc., the choice of material depends entirely on future loads.

Linear the collection system, unlike the point one, removes drains from the entire yard, while protecting the foundation of the house. Moreover, if the slope of the site exceeds three degrees, then the linear catchment will prevent the topsoil from being washed away. The main components of such a system are trays, or, as they are also called, gutters.

There are a number of places in the yard where the linear collection system needs to be installed without fail.

Around the house to drain wastewater from the foundation.
Near an outdoor washbasin (if there is one), otherwise you will need to put on rubber boots every time in order to wash your hands.
Near garage doors. Linear drainage will prevent flooding of the garage, and the grate will partially remove dirt from the wheels.
Along garden paths. It is characteristic that the paths should slope towards the drainage channel. So they will stay dry in any weather.

deep drainage

Drainage deep type designed to collect and drain groundwater from the site. For its installation, drainage pipes are used, which are buried in the ground on a previously prepared "cushion" of sand and gravel. Drainage pipes perforated, that is, they have many holes in order to absorb moisture that has fallen into their "zone of action".

Ditches for drainage pipes should be located around the entire perimeter of the yard. The frequency with which and in what order they will be placed will depend on the characteristics of the soil and the degree of its saturation with groundwater.

Important! So that the sand and gravel “pillow” does not silt up, a layer of geotextile lies under it - this material allows moisture to pass through, but retains small particles.

All drain pipes must slope towards the collector. The collector accumulates all the moisture coming through the pipes and “transfers” it to a water collector (, a ravine or even a reservoir nearby).

Video - Storm sewer on the site

Storm water installation requirements

As already mentioned, the water in the storm sewer moves by gravity, so for effective work systems should take into account a number of factors:

the average amount of precipitation per year - the diameter of the pipes, the size and number of storm water inlets, etc. will depend on this figure;
the type of buildings and their location (household facilities, house), due to which the length of the drainage pipeline will be calculated;
the nature of the area on which your site is located;
average household water consumption.

Important! Drainage pipes must run below the freezing level of the soil.

Calculation procedure

Based on the data given in the previous paragraph of the article, we need to make a calculation that will allow us to build an effective storm system. If the calculations are correct, then sanitary norms will be observed.

The calculation basis is the maximum volume of water that the system can handle. This volume can be obtained by a simple formula:

D x S xQ20 = V

In the formula, D is the intensity of water absorption by the surface (this information can be found in reference books), S is total area, Q20 - the maximum intensity of precipitation (it is also available in reference books for a specific area), which is measured in l. per sec. per 1 hectare, and V is the maximum volume of water to be withdrawn.

In order to make it more convenient, below we have given a table that indicates the intensity of moisture absorption various materials(D).

Selection of pipe section

Slope, %	Diameter
Slope, %	10 cm	15 cm	20 cm
1,5-2	10,03	31,53	77,01
1-1,5	8,69	27,31	66,69
0,5-1	7,1	22,29	54,45
0,3-0,5	5,02	15,76	38,5
0-0,3	3,89	12,21	29,82

If one pipe will be connected to several gutters at once, then to determine the diameter, you simply add the numbers of each of the flows. All other elements of the system - trays, grates, funnels, etc., we will calculate in the same way as pipes. These elements, made of plastic, are now sold in all stores. If you wish, you can order parts from a locksmith - he will make them from galvanized sheet.

If a drainage system is already available, then work begins with the installation of storm water inlets. We install them directly under the drainpipes. It is characteristic that all storm water inlets form a single system, so we equip them with the necessary number of holes for pipes. In order to connect pipes to receivers, we use elbows.

First we mark the perimeter and dig trenches. Next, we fill the trench with a sandy “cushion” 10–20 cm thick. Then we lay the pipes, while, as already mentioned, there should be a slope to the side drainage well(minimum 2%), otherwise the water will not drain by gravity and we will need to install additional pumps. And this, of course, additional costs.

During installation, in addition to the main elements (pipes, storm water inlets, etc.), we will use:

siphons;
sand traps;
plugs- they are needed so that in case of overflow of the pipe, the water does not move back.

In conclusion, we connect all elements of the system - from pipes and sand traps to a drainage well - into a single network. It remains only to fix the trays. We are preparing for them. concrete mortar(the ratio of sand and cement is 3: 1) and with its help we fix the trays. We put them on top protective grids and we fill up the entire storm system.

Important! In order to correctly determine the angle of inclination, it is better to use a laser or water level.

Video - Installation of a storm water drainage system

Despite the fact that it rains mostly downhill and vertical rain is rare, you should not skimp on the less flooded side. A complete and reliable stormwater system in everything - effective protection the foundation of the house and the entire site as a whole.
In order to check the performance of the system, you need to pour several buckets of water from the roof. It is advisable to carry out this procedure before the start of each rainy season.
Water from the drainage well (collector), already purified, can be used to water the garden or vegetable garden.
In places where the pipeline "turns", it is recommended to install manholes for visual control of the system.

How to clean out a storm drain

If the storm drain is clogged, then you can seek help from specialists, or you can try to clean it yourself. Of course, if this happened for the first time, then it is better that the cleaning is carried out by specialists - you can find out from them how the blockage of one degree or another of complexity is eliminated. There are several such ways.

Mechanical the cleaning method consists in punching plugs in the system and removing dirt.
Chemical way - use chemicals destroying the blockage structure.
hydrodynamic It consists in supplying water under strong pressure.
And thermal cleaning method - steam cleaning or hot water cleaning.

Often, a mechanical or hydrodynamic method is used to clean storm sewers. But if the system is open, then cleaning will be much easier:

removal of the grid installed on the trays;
removal of debris and dirt from the channel;
washing by cleaning the channels with a strong pressure of water;
putting the grate back.

By the way, if you have a mini-sink on your farm, for example, Karcher, you can use it for washing - the result will also be excellent.

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