Mustard from the Colorado potato beetle. Potato care - spraying, hilling potatoes

The eternal obsession headache summer residents are pests, the invasion of which is much easier to avoid than to correct the consequences of a violent feast of insects in the garden. This goal is pursued by the processing of potatoes before planting. It will relieve constant concern for the health of plants and the safety of the future crop, and will also increase its size.

Seed selection

Preparation of potato tubers for planting consists of several sequential procedures. It starts with careful selection. seed. The main requirement here is health, although the shape and size of the potatoes also matter. It is convenient to sort tubers on the table. Potatoes that are rotten and affected by diseases of a fungal or bacterial nature are immediately discarded. They should not come into contact with healthy tubers. The infection may be latent. To reveal it, the selected seed is heated (at 14-18°C). If the potatoes have been infected, they will show signs of disease by the time they are planted and will be easy to sort.

Outwardly healthy tubers are checked for yield. They are dipped into a solution of urea. Prepare it by stirring 1.5 kg of the substance in 10 liters of water. Suitable for planting tubers are dense and heavy, they will sink to the bottom. The unripe ones will float to the surface. The same fate will befall sick potatoes.

When selecting tubers, pay attention to their size. Good result gives planting medium potatoes (weighing 50-80 g). But there are no strict restrictions here. high yield can also be obtained by using smaller ones weighing from 30 g, or larger tubers, the mass of which exceeds 100 g. If the potatoes differ greatly in size, they are laid out in 3 piles. The tubers sorted by size are planted on different beds. So you can achieve a uniform emergence of seedlings: the period of germination of potatoes is largely determined by their size. In the future, bushes of the same height will be easier to care for.

Gardening or sprouting?

Preparing potatoes for planting is usually done in one of the following ways:

through its landscaping;
germination method.

Each of the methods has its own merits. With landscaping it is better to hurry up. Spend it in the fall, digging up the crop. The potatoes selected for planting are laid out in 2-3 layers in a bright, well-ventilated place. Direct rays of the sun should not fall on them. After 10 days, the tubers are harvested in containers in which they will be stored until spring.

In the light, solanine is actively formed in potatoes - a toxic substance that performs the function of a natural fungicide and insecticide. In addition to protecting against diseases and pests, it is involved in the processes of wound healing, accelerating them. Greening seed tubers helps to retain moisture in them, which is necessary for potato sprouts at the beginning of their development. They cannot get it from the soil due to an underdeveloped root system. If it was not possible to green the tubers in the fall, this can be done in the spring by combining the procedure with germination.

Most summer residents prefer to plant potatoes with real sprouts. It sprouts faster, which develops better and ultimately brings a rich harvest. It will not be possible to avoid such preparation if the soil on the site is heavy, containing a lot of clay or peat.

Germination rules

Germination of potatoes before planting is carried out in a warm room with high humidity air. Under such conditions, the decomposed thin layer in boxes, seed tubers usually keep 3-4 weeks. Periodically (every 7-10 days) they are turned over. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the sprouts. Thirsting the tubers, they are again examined, culling out the weak and infected with diseases.

Important for awakening the kidneys temperature regime. In the daytime, potatoes should be kept warm (12-18°C). At night, it is desirable to lower the temperature to 6°C. Long sprouts break easily when planted. To avoid their stretching, the seed in the first week is kept in a room where the air is warmed up to 20-22 ° C. Further germination of tubers is carried out in coolness - at a temperature of about 7-8 ° C.

The humidity in the room should be 85-95%. To successfully germinate seed potatoes, it is periodically sprayed clean water. The tubers will be ready for planting in 20-25 days. Potatoes with powerful sprouts are placed on the beds, reaching a length of 1 cm and having rudiments of roots in their lower part.

Before planting, the tubers are again sorted out. Those who are unsuitable for her are:

have only 1 sprout;
did not give sprouts;
formed weak filamentous sprouts.

Experienced summer residents practice sprouting potatoes before planting in a greenhouse. It is easiest to provide tubers in it optimal temperature and air humidity.

If it is not possible to germinate planting material in the light, it is heated. It requires a dark room and a constant temperature in the range of 18-20°C. This technique reduces the preparation time for potatoes to 8-10 days. Since warming up results quickly, it is advisable to start it shortly before the planned landing. If the tubers lie in warmth and darkness for longer than the recommended period, the sprouts will be long and fragile. In most varieties of potatoes, their breaking causes a significant decrease in the yield of the bush. Separate varieties of culture after it may not rise at all.

It is better to plant tubers with dormant buds than to germinate them and then damage them. If it was not possible to avoid stretching the sprouts, they are not cut off. Carefully removing the potatoes from the box, they are placed in a hole or furrow and carefully sprinkled with soil. The first sprouts have increased vitality.

Disinfection

On the surface of the tubers may be pathogens of dangerous diseases. To prevent infection of plants, potatoes intended for planting are treated with biological fungicides.

The timing of the procedure depends on the drug:

"Planriz" is used 7 days before placing the tubers in the ground;
"Albit" - 24 hours before landing;
"Fitosporin", "Baksis", "Arilin" - right in front of her;
"Binoram" and "Agat-25K" are used twice: before planting and 5 days before it.

widely practiced and folk methods disinfection planting material- ash, copper sulfate, potassium permanganate. They are simple, gentle and effective. To process seed potatoes, copper sulfate (1 tsp) is dissolved in water (3 l). The resulting mixture can be sprayed on the tubers, but the result will be better if they are immersed in it for a short time (maximum 2 minutes). The potatoes extracted from the solution are dried and left for 2-3 days. Then they can be further treated with a growth stimulator. This preparation will protect future harvest from the wireworm. Click beetle larvae do not like blue vitriol. If there are a lot of wireworms in the place of the proposed planting of potatoes, you can water the area with a solution in the fall or scatter the substance over the soil surface.

Do not prepare a solution blue vitriol in metal containers. It is recommended to use glass, wooden or enamelware. You can do without it by digging a hole in the area and covering it with a strong film.

A disinfecting solution of potassium permanganate is made at the rate of 1 g of the substance per 1 liter of water. The tubers are placed in it for 30 minutes. You can add copper sulfate (10 g) to this amount of potassium permanganate and boric acid(20 g). They are thoroughly stirred in 10 liters of water. After keeping the seed tubers in the resulting composition for half an hour, they are dried and planted in the ground. Potassium permanganate is also effective for tillage. To destroy the wireworm, before planting the hole under the potato, water it with a solution (3-4 g per 10 liters of water). But this method is suitable only for neutral and alkaline soils. If the soil in the area is acidic, an excess of manganese, along with getting rid of the wireworm, can lead to plant burns.

In this case, it is better to treat the tubers and soil with ash. It will also serve as a fertilizer for potatoes. Having prepared a nutrient solution from it (1 kg of substance per 1 bucket of water), seed tubers are immersed in it. You can do this without removing them from the grid. There is another way - after slightly wetting the potatoes, roll them in fertilizer. Plant them right away. Ash scares away the wireworm. It is introduced into the soil in the fall, before the autumn digging. You can also do this at planting by adding fertilizer to each hole. Some summer residents protect plants from wireworms all summer, periodically scattering ash near the plantations and loosening the soil.

Pest prevention

Treating potatoes before planting from the Colorado potato beetle will help to avoid the invasion of voracious insects and minimize damage to the crop. It is carried out with special fungicide preparations. The following means are popular with summer residents.

"Matador Grand". It protects potatoes from wireworms, beetles, whiteflies, aphids, fleas, moths, cicadas, late blight, peronosporosis, rhizoctoniosis and a number of other diseases. The processing of tubers is carried out by them "on the tables". Having laid them out in 1 layer, they are sprayed with a solution of the drug. After drying, the potatoes are turned over and the second side is processed. The solution is prepared at the rate of 30 ml of the drug per 200 ml of water. When the potatoes are completely dry, they can be planted;
"Prestige" (100 ml) in combination with "Maxim" (70 ml). 100 potatoes are treated with this dosage.

Both methods are not suitable for protection early varieties culture. They have a long-term effect, remaining in tubers for up to 60-70 days and making them undesirable to eat. It is better to treat early ripe varieties of potatoes from the Colorado potato beetle with Taboo preparations (it will also help get rid of wireworms and aphids), Cruiser or the like. Their action is limited to 45 days.

There are several ways to protect the crop from the wireworm with the Taboo preparation:

spray them with tubers "on the tables";
cultivate the soil - the bottom of the planting hole or furrow. For 1 weave spend 1-2 liters of fungicide solution.

There are a lot of chemical compounds, the use of which on seed tubers will not be afraid of the wireworm: Prestige, Commander, Nuprid 600, Pikus, Imidor. They have a complex protective effect, increasing the immunity of plants and protecting the future crop from fungal diseases and a whole range of pests: false wireworm, mole cricket, aphids, beetle, scoops.

Growth promotion and nutrition

Shoots will appear faster, and potato bushes will be more powerful and lush if the tubers are treated with a growth stimulator. Do this 1-2 days before they are placed in the ground. Most often, to activate the germination of eyes on tubers, gardeners use the drug "Poteitin". Having dissolved it in 1 liter of water, they spray potatoes with it. The product is used economically: 1 ampoule is enough to process 60 kg of planting material. The drug strengthens the immunity of plants, makes them more resistant to changing weather conditions, increases productivity.

Popular and other means:

"Mikon", which contains many microelements important for the culture;
"Epin", which doubles the yield of potatoes, improves its keeping quality and accelerates its ripening by 2 weeks;
"Bioglobin", causing active cell division and an increase in the root system of the bush.

You can treat the seed tubers with a nutrient composition. For its preparation, use "Nitrophoska" or "Mortar". 1 tsp of the drug is mixed in 3 liters of water. By the time of placement in the ground, the tubers are treated 3 times, repeating spraying every 10 days.

The question of how to prepare potatoes for planting is one of the most important in crop farming. Proper handling seed tubers will save energy in the struggle for the safety of the crop and increase its size. You can execute it different ways, based on personal preferences and opportunities, crop growing conditions, the amount of time left before planting, the availability of certain drugs on the farm. You can use all known agricultural practices or limit yourself to a few of them.

The Colorado potato beetle is one of the most malicious opponents of every gardener. Vegetable growers process tubers and potato plants several times throughout the growing season, but they often fail to achieve the expected results. Insects continue to destroy plants, and the crop from frequent spraying accumulates many toxic substances. Therefore, many prefer to use exclusively folk remedies to protect potatoes from insects.

A set of preventive actions

The fight against potato pest will be much more effective if it is carried out throughout the year, and not limited to the growing season of the crop. It is important to constantly create conditions on your site that are unfavorable for the development and reproduction of insects. For each season there is a certain set of preventive actions.

Fresh or rotted leaves repel pests well walnut. In the fall, they need to be scattered throughout the site, and then dig up the garden. Plowing the land on the eve of a cold snap will make it possible to destroy a significant part of the insects, which did not have time to go deep enough in preparation for wintering. Throughout the winter, it is necessary to scatter evenly on the bed, which has a detrimental effect on leaf beetles and enriches the soil useful vitamins(phosphorus, potassium).

In the spring, before germination, glass jars(0.5 -1 l) you need to put a few pieces of raw potatoes or their peel. Vessels must be buried flush with the surface of the soil, evenly distributing them throughout the garden. Periodically, such traps should be checked and pests that have fallen into them should be destroyed. It is possible to lure and collect insects by this method even after harvesting.

During the growing season, it is necessary to periodically inspect the tops, and in a timely manner to manually assemble and destroy pests. In addition to the pests themselves, their larvae must also be removed. And if the beetles on the potatoes are visible quite well, then finding the eggs is sometimes not easy. Insects usually debug them on inside leaves.

Newborn cubs are much more dangerous than old individuals. They are capable of destroying large area plants in just one day. Therefore, it is important to prevent their occurrence as much as possible.

Dusting potato protection

This is an old folk remedy for the Colorado potato beetle. frequent use may well positive result. Shedding tops and row spacing received a second name - "dry fight", which includes the following methods:

Dusting of leaves with sown wood ash at the rate of 10 kg per one hundred square meters. The most effective is pine and birch ash.
Cornmeal tends to expand in volume when exposed to moisture. Once in the stomach of an insect, it begins to swell strongly, which causes its death.
The smell of fresh pine or birch sawdust scattered between the rows is well repelled by leaf beetles.

When dusting, it is not the quantity of materials used that is decisive, but the frequency of the procedure!

Spraying potatoes with infusions and decoctions

There is a wide variety of solutions for the preparation of which natural raw materials are used. Processing potatoes from the Colorado potato beetle with such infusions will help to significantly reduce its population in the garden.

Raw material	Required amount per 10 liters of water.	Cooking method	Note
walnut leaves	1 kg	Pour boiling water, insist under the lid for a week
White acacia bark	1 kg	Dry and grind, insist in a cool place for 3-4 days.
onion peel	300 g	Pour hot water, leave under pressure for a day
Dandelion and horsetail herb	200 g of each component	Boil for 15 minutes, the product is ready for use immediately after cooling	Ready-made broth should be used at a concentration of 0.5 liters per 10 liters of water
Wormwood	300 g	Mix with one glass wood ash, pour hot water, leave for three hours
	200 g	Finely chop the bulbs and arrows, pour warm water and leave for a day	Ripened, but not shrunken leaves are suitable
Hemp	600 g	Boil for 10 minutes, the cooled solution is ready for use	Use the leaves of a flowering plant
Tobacco	0.5 kg	insist two days	Dry roots, stems or tobacco powder are suitable. The extract is diluted in a ratio of 1:2
hot pepper	100 g	Boil for 2 hours, apply immediately after cooling
Celandine	500 - 1000 g	Freshly cut leaves and stems are boiled for 10 minutes	The prepared solution is used at a concentration of 1:20

How and with what to spray potatoes is a purely personal matter for every vegetable grower. Many gardeners add to their solutions sunflower oil, vinegar, mustard and other specific ingredients. Regardless of the composition, there are a number of rules and recommendations for processing horticultural crops liquid preparations:

Any of the solutions must be filtered before use to avoid clogging the nozzle of the spray device.
Spraying should be carried out in calm weather in the early morning or evening (from exposure sun rays preparations quickly lose their insecticidal properties).
Adding soap or washing powder improves its adhesion to the leaf surface.
Despite the natural origin of the components of the product used, it is necessary to work with it observing all safety measures.

A tool created on their basis is considered very effective for processing potatoes from Colorado potato beetles. Approximately half liter jar insects should be placed in 10 liters of water, covered with a lid. After 5-7 days, the solution will be saturated with the necessary toxins, and the "rodents" will settle to the bottom of the vessel. A liter of such an insecticide is diluted with two liters of water.

Spraying potatoes with undiluted infusion can burn the tops!

Neighbors that the "striped" does not tolerate

Colorado potato beetles have well-developed scent receptors, so they do not like to live in areas where strong odors predominate. To create such conditions in their garden, some vegetable growers alternate potato rows with plantings of other crops. Among the most "unloved" pests are onions, beans and beans. Some plants emit a sharp aroma only when flowering. It is customary for them to plant potato plantations along the perimeter. Calendula, coriander, violet and hemp have good deterrent properties. True, the cultivation of the latter is prohibited by law.

Features of pest control

Colorado leaf beetles are very thermophilic, they prefer to lay their larvae in well-lit and sun-warmed areas. It is noticed that in shady places the tops are devoured by insects much less. The pest also ambiguously refers to different varieties potatoes. First of all, beetles eat bushes of early crops, the leaves and stems of which are usually not powerful enough.

In order to get rid of beetles on potatoes, it is advisable to use several methods overnight. The pest has the ability to adapt to certain drugs and conditions, so you can not be limited to one specific method, no matter how effective it would be.

The fight will be much more effective if you destroy insects not only in your area, but also in the largest possible radius from it. Therefore, in such matters it is important to interact with the owners of neighboring plots, share knowledge and experience, seek general solutions of how to get rid of beetles on potatoes, and to carry out all "anti-Colorado" operations in the same time frame.

How to get rid of the Colorado potato beetle folk remedies - video

Potato is one of the most important cultures, which occupies the main share in the agriculture of our country. It is not always possible to create for potatoes favorable conditions cultivation. AT different regions have their own climatic features. Also, the composition and structure of the soil does not always meet the requirements of this vegetable. Fertilizers for potatoes, applied in compliance with the deadlines and the required dosages, will help correct any errors.

Article plan

Nutrients - what do potatoes love?

Main elements

Any crops need a complex of basic elements nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (NPK). And potatoes need it especially, this root crop is demanding on nutrition and quickly depletes the soil solution. A plant during the growing season consumes approximately 50 g of nitrogen, about 20 g of phosphorus and 100 g of potassium.

And if we take into account that some of the elements can go into a form inaccessible to plants or simply evaporate from the soil surface, then we can conclude that feeding potatoes in open field- The event is mandatory.

The main elements are introduced as complex and single-component mineral fertilizers, as well as organic matter: composts, manure and bird droppings, the sideration method, infusions of "green fertilizers" from various herbs.

Micronutrient nutrition

Trace elements are necessary for all root crops. They enhance biochemical processes at the intercellular level, help to better assimilate the main elements, increase the resistance of root crops to various types diseases: scab, late blight, nematode. But most importantly, trace elements are responsible for the starch content of potatoes and their shelf life. Potatoes not fed with micronutrient will spoil quickly and will not survive the long winter.

First of all, potatoes need manganese, then zinc, boron and copper, calcium, iron, magnesium, sulfur, and then cobalt and molybdenum in small amounts. Depending on the type of soil, the content of trace elements varies. The lighter the soil, the less useful substances. It should be noted that the use of organic matter to replenish microelements on sandy and sandy loamy soils is more than justified. Experts have long proven that soil humus contains up to 25% of zinc, copper, molybdenum and cobalt necessary for plants. Boron and manganese are less - about 5%.

It is possible to fill light soils with humus only with the help of organic fertilizers, moreover, the use of organics will not be enough, and it is necessary to apply chemical additives. Industrial microfertilizers are applied under potatoes by the root method, and foliar feeding of potatoes is also an effective measure.

How to prepare the site?

Potatoes quickly deplete the soil. If the root crop is planted every season in one place, significant doses of mineral additives and organic fertilizers will be required. Most best harvests usually removed in the first two years of development of virgin areas, when the soil solution is still saturated with all the nutrients.

Planting in one area obliges to carry out preventive measures against the spread of diseases and pests. If possible, it is better to change the plot for potatoes. If this is not possible, it is impossible to neglect the laying of fertilizers in the fall. In the spring, the first top dressing of potatoes is carried out at planting.

Autumn site preparation

In order for the care and cultivation of potatoes to be effective, in the fall it is necessary to use organic matter and chemical additives at the same time. Organics should be abandoned only if the soil was seriously infested with pests in the previous season, or the potatoes suffered from some kind of disease. Organic is favorable environment reproduction of pathogenic flora.

Mineral-organic dressing for potatoes in the fall:

50 l - 100 l of humus / 30 g / 15 g / 1 m².

The amount of humus depends on the type of soil. For heavy soils is taken minimum value, for the lungs - the maximum. Humus in the fall can be replaced with the same amount of fresh manure. During the winter, fresh organic matter will perepreet without harming the plants in the spring. Potassium and phosphorus are elements with a prolonged decomposition period, so it is most useful to apply these elements in the fall.

Mineral fertilizers for potatoes in autumn:

30 g of double superphosphate / 60 g of potassium sulfate / 1 m².

The double dose of potassium supplements compared to phosphorus supplements is explained high demands potatoes to potassium. Potassium sulphate supplement can be replaced with potassium sulfate. In any case, the ratio of phosphorus and potash fertilizers should be 1:2.

Potash agrochemicals are often substituted. Ash contains the necessary potassium and prevents the spread of harmful microorganisms. A glass of ash will replace 10 g of any potassium-containing fertilizer.

Fans of the sideration method can be advised to sow a potato plot with white mustard. This cold-resistant green manure will have time to rise before the first frosts and go under the snow in a green state. In the spring, all that remains is to dig the site.

Liming

One more mandatory procedure to be carried out in the fall is the liming of the soil solution. Planting and caring for potatoes will become ineffective if potatoes are sown in soil with high acidity. Liming is carried out at any time after harvest, but no later than fifteen days before autumn plowing with the laying of fertilizers.

For liming:

250 g dolomite flour / 1 m².

If it is planned to use ash in the autumn digging, it is not necessary to lime the soil. Ash successfully replaces dolomites and deoxidizes the soil:

200 g ash/1 m².

Spring fertilization for planting

In the spring, when planting, fertilizers for potatoes are applied by the nesting method, that is, in each hole in which the tuber will be laid. This method has justified itself in practice, as the most budgetary, compared with digging for the entire site. Usually, a mineral-organic mixture is used in the wells.

Fertilizers for potatoes when planting in the hole:

30 kg of humus / 2 kg of ash / 1 kg of simple superphosphate / 500 g / 1 weave.

Ammonium nitrate can be replaced with the same amount of ammonium sulfate. AT spring top dressing it is important to give the root crops enough nitrogen for the active growth of tops and rooting of tubers. In further fertilizing, nitrogen is used in smaller doses and then completely excluded so that the ground part does not develop to the detriment of the tubers. Nitrogen is supplied together with organics, full complex fertilizers, as well as single-component formulations.

The best fertilizer for potatoes in the hole:

3 l compost mixture / 30 g (two spoons) / 20 g ammonium nitrate / 20 g potassium sulfate / 1 m²;
10 l of humus / 50 g of nitrophoska / 200 ml of ash / 1 m².

If green manure was planted on the site in the fall, when planting, it is enough to add to the hole:

20 g ammonium nitrate / 20 g potassium sulfate / 1 m².

For the prevention of diseases and pests on chernozems and heavy loams, only mineral compositions without added organics:

5 kg of nitrophoska / 1 weave;
3 kg of nitroammophoska / 1 weave.

Based on one well of nitrophoska, approximately one tablespoon will be needed.

In cases of time pressure or when there is a large cultivated area, labor costs can be reduced and ready-made agrochemicals can be used.

Please note that any mixture obtained must be mixed with the ground before being laid in the wells, avoiding direct contact of tubers and fertilizers so as not to damage the planting material.

Feeding potatoes in double rows

Vegetation period - root feeding scheme

top dressing of potatoes after planting, at the stage of germination;
fertilization in the phase of inflorescence formation (budding);
top dressing during flowering.

Experienced gardeners, in order to facilitate the process of caring for root crops, tie top dressing to hilling. For late-ripening varieties during the growing season, about 3-4 hillings will be required, for early-ripening species, the procedure is carried out 2 times. Tuki are introduced before hilling.

Methods for applying under the root

A feature of the root feeding of potatoes is the incorporation of fertilizers into the deep layers of the soil, where the roots can get the necessary nutrition. Surface laying of fertilizers for potatoes is not suitable. In order to properly carry out top dressing, large agro-industrial farms use special equipment– cultivators-feeders or cultivators-hillers.

On the small areas farmers use the "under stake" method. To do this, a stake is driven in between the rows to a depth of 20 cm - 30 cm according to the principle of a triangle. That is, one recess will work for three bushes. This is done to submit required amount nutrition without burning root system. Fertilizer solutions are poured into the resulting recess and sprinkled with earth, or hilling is carried out immediately so that unstable nutrients cannot evaporate.

First deposit

A sign that it is time to feed is usually a pale green shade of seedlings. This indicates a lack of nitrogen at the stage of active development of the tops.

How to feed potatoes for the first time:

500 ml / 15 g urea / 10 l / 500 ml per bush.

Cattle manure can be replaced with poultry manure. It will take only 15 g - 25 g (1 - 1.5 tablespoons) / 10 liters. Urea is interchangeable with ammonium nitrate and ammonium sulfate.

Second deposit

In the second top dressing, nitrogen must be excluded. At this time, the plant gives all its strength to the formation and growth of tubers, and the amount of the crop in the end will depend on this. Basically, the emphasis is on the supply of potassium, which the potatoes need in large doses, and phosphorus:

15 g potassium sulfate / 125 ml (half a glass) ash / 15 g double superphosphate / 10 l / 500 ml per bush.

Third deposit

The last feeding of potatoes is carried out no later than twenty days before the collection of root crops. Mineral-organic mixtures are used:

30 g of superphosphate simple / 250 ml of slurry / 10 l / 500 ml per bush.

The value of foliar top dressing

A feature of the potato is its poor susceptibility to fertilizers with high demands on nutrients. To carry out root nutrition, gardeners have to serve a large number of fertilizers, which is sometimes simply unprofitable, given the cash costs of organic and industrial fertilizers. Foliar feeding often becomes more efficient in caring for potatoes and more economical way. But also foliar top dressing potato has its own characteristics.

Adjuvants

The specificity of the structure of the potato leaf is such that if improperly sprayed, nutrients will be poorly absorbed. The epidermis of potato leaves is multi-layered, covered on top with a protective natural film of wax and cutin. This barrier reduces the effectiveness of foliar feeding by a factor of three.

To overcome this protective layer, as part of leaf dressings, special means under the abbreviation surfactants - surface-active substances. The second name is adjuvants. These substances increase the area of liquid spreading over the surface of the sheet.. At the same time, adjuvants retain nutrients and damage the dense protective layer. Through microdamages, nutrition enters the plant.

Often ready-made formulations for processing potatoes already contain surfactants. Before buying a fertilizer, carefully read the composition. If adjuvants are not available, you will have to buy them separately and add them for spraying.

Scheme of foliar top dressing

Foliar top dressing helps the plant to develop normally, moreover, they are the prevention of many fungal diseases. For example, nitrogen sprays protect potatoes from nematodes. Nettle infusion treatments are effective against aphids. Late blight will be prevented by copper sulphate treatments.

To prevent the formation of voids in the tubers, it is necessary. Manganese will improve the taste and increase the sugar content of the product, and spraying with copper sulphate a month before harvesting will increase the shelf life of tubers, and the loss of mass during storage will be reduced to a minimum.

Boron-manganese treatment is carried out in the phase of tuber formation, after flowering. During the growth period the best fertilizer will be urea spraying. The last processing on the sheet will be phosphoric. It is carried out twenty days before the digging of root crops. Humates are used throughout the growing season, and potassium is added to the leaf during the period of tuber growth, after flowering.

Why do we need boron for potatoes

Foliar top dressing for potatoes - compositions and dosages

With the advent of seedlings, you can feed the potatoes with urea. This one-component fat contains nitrogen and will help fill the deficiency of the element:

200 g urea / 300 g potassium monophosphate / 10 g boric acid / 10 l.

You can use urea spraying several times, until the onset of the flowering phase of potatoes. For the second and subsequent times, the given amount of additives is diluted with 5 liters of water. You can also add ready-made compositions of microfertilizers. The content of copper, zinc, cobalt, manganese, sulfur should not exceed 1 g per 10 liters of solution. Carbamide is not used simultaneously with herbicides.

Please note that in the period before flowering, potatoes absorb up to 60% of all nutrients, therefore, it is during this period that most dressings should be carried out. However, it should be borne in mind that the interval between them should always be at least two weeks.

Root crops are fed with humates throughout the growing season, starting the procedure with the appearance of the fourth leaf. Works well for potatoes:

working solution - 2 g of the drug / 10 l - 3 liters will be needed for 1 weave.

During flowering, potatoes are necessary, which are sold in specialized stores. A mixture that, in addition to the main nutritional components, contains the addition of copper sulfate will also be effective. Processing with this composition will protect the shoots from pests and give complete nutrition to root crops:

2 g ammonium nitrate / 2 g potassium chloride / 20 g simple superphosphate / 0.1 copper sulfate / 10 l.

Dilute the components in warm water and let it brew for 3-4 hours.

When the potato has faded, the stage of tuber formation begins.. Immediately after flowering, it is necessary to give the plant boron and manganese. To make the task easier and not to calculate one-component additives, experienced gardeners recommend to purchase Mag-Bor fertilizer for potatoes. The drug is inexpensive and will last for a long time. To prepare a working solution, you only need:

15 g (tablespoon) fertilizer / 10 l.

Phosphorus top dressing is carried out at the end of the growing season. It will improve the taste and keeping quality of root crops:

100 g of simple superphosphate / 10 l.

Everything you need to know about feeding potatoes

How to properly spray potatoes?

Due to the peculiar structure of the potato leaf with dense protective film, several rules must be observed, otherwise the processing of potatoes on the sheet will simply be ineffective.

Do not spray in anticipation of rain. It takes at least 3 hours for the absorption of nutrients by potato leaves. In case of precipitation useful elements will be washed away before the plant absorbs them.
In case of frost, foliar feeding of potatoes is best postponed for a few days.
In hot weather, sheet processing is not carried out due to the possibility of burns. It is better to spray early in the morning or in the evening at sunset.
Choose your spray gun carefully. Spraying potatoes should be small drops so that the food is absorbed faster and better.

Now you know how to carry out root and foliar feeding, what kind of fertilizer for potatoes is best, when to apply it. Take good care of your plants and have a good harvest!

Many novice gardeners and farmers are interested in the question: when can you spray potatoes from the Colorado potato beetle. Many factors affect this event, namely: the variety of vegetable, weather, a kind of poisonous agent, and so on.

There is general recommendations from experts when to spray potatoes from the Colorado potato beetle. Agronomists advise starting procedures as soon as the pest lays eggs on the leaves. The interval between bullying is recommended to be set at 22-28 days. In general, processing times are set individually depending on the type of pesticide.

Spraying and variety of potatoes

Medium and late varieties it is desirable to spray cultures with the mass appearance of beetles on the culture. Early potatoes are processed at the first eggs seen. Re-baiting is best organized a couple of weeks after the appearance of the larvae.

It is advisable to spray potatoes of any variety half a month before the start of collecting tubers. Otherwise, the vegetable can be harmful to health.

Dry weather without sharp gusts of wind - ideal conditions for haulm processing. At high humidity, poisons will be diluted with water. This reduces the efficiency several times. For the same reason, you should not spray in the very early morning and late evening hours after the appearance of dew. Highly hot weather - dangerous time for chemical treatment. At the same time, poisons quickly evaporate and poison a person.

Processing during the flowering of potatoes

It is better to refrain from baiting beetles during abundant flowering potatoes.

Perfect fit only manual assembly pests. With the least harm to the crop, you can use the following drugs:

Bicol;
Fitoverm;
Akarin;
Bitoxibacillin;
Agravertin.

These funds the best way cope with the first beetle larvae.

Why can't potatoes be treated for the Colorado potato beetle when flowers appear? During this important period, the plant actively forms tubers, and it is more vulnerable than ever to chemicals. In addition, toxic preparations can kill insect pollinators. Immediately after the inflorescences wither, you can begin chemical treatment.

What time of day to choose?

It is best to process potatoes before 9-10 o'clock and in the evening after 17-18. Spraying time depends on the temperature outside. Under such conditions, poisons quickly evaporate from the culture.

It is necessary to ensure that there is no dew or other moisture on the tops. When spraying, do not eat or smoke. It is advisable to use gloves, a mask and overalls. After the procedure, take a shower with soap, wash clothes and shoes with detergent.

Useful information about the Colorado potato beetle

The information below will help you better understand the behavior of the beetle and make the most effective spraying of potatoes from the pest.

Exceptionally voracious insect. Able to eat the tops of the plant completely from the crown to the base.
The beetle, in order not to remain hungry, can travel tens of kilometers.
Food for the pest is not only potatoes, but also other nightshade plants.
For one harvest, one to three generations of beetles appear. Therefore, chemical treatment must be carried out more than once.
On cloudy days, as well as in the morning and evening, the insect likes to move around on the ground. The rest of the time can be spent in flights.
In summer, striped pests can fall asleep for ten days. This is a kind of protection against lack of food.
Quickly enough adapts to toxic chemistry. Therefore, it is advisable to use new means of struggle each time.

Summarize. Basic rules for spraying:

Do not treat plants during flowering.
Best time: morning and evening, before or after dew on the stems.
Re-spraying should be done no earlier than 15 days later.
Strictly observe the instructions on the packaging of the chemical.
The last persecution must be carried out two and a half weeks before the collection of tubers.

When working with poisons, all safety measures must be followed. They are listed on the packaging. Do not neglect the dosage.

Every person eats potatoes once a day. And it's not even about 600, where the tubers are used. The fact is that potatoes are a favorite and not boring vegetable. We conclude: it must be grown in such a way that the yield is high, and there are enough tubers for the whole year.

Let's try to figure out what needs to be done in order to complete the task.

Regions that Phytophthora loves

Yes, there are some, but different years boundaries are shifting. For example, in 2007 she was very annoying in Karelia, Arkhangelsk, Kaliningrad and Vologda regions, small territories in the Bryansk region and in Mari El. In 2008, Phytophthora spread across Karelia, the Vologda region, the Kirov, Kaliningrad, Tver and Moscow regions, capturing Mari El as well. But in 2009, she weakened the onslaught everywhere, except for the Vologda region, part of the Arkhangelsk region, she greatly disgraced the regions of the Komi Republic adjacent to the Arkhangelsk region, and even out of habit walked around the Kaliningrad region.

In general, 2009 was a calm year for many regions, where the development of the disease was weak, or phytophthora completely went into a state of depression.

crop losses

Summer residents and gardeners always process potato plantings from, and they don’t consider it necessary to spray to at least try to fight late blight, or maybe they just don’t know about this method of preserving the crop. Two districts of the Moscow region in 2004 suffered from the invasion of phytophthora. But farmers lost an average of 18% of their crops, and summer residents and gardeners - about 45%.
Why such a scatter in the testimony? Yes, because the farmers did 3-4 treatments, and the summer residents did not protect their hundred square meters at all.

In the same 2004, farmers in the Netherlands made 10-15 treatments, Belgium - 15, Germany - up to 10 treatments, Great Britain - about 14 treatments.

Important questions about potato late blight

The topic is topical, so there can be a lot of questions, but we will answer the main ones - there are only four of them:

What varieties of potatoes to grow in "problem" regions?
When (at what time) to do fungicide treatments?
What preparations to use?
How many treatments do you need to do?

Potato varieties

There are many varieties, according to susceptibility to phytophthora, they can be divided into three groups. It is clear that we will not grow unstable varieties. They are suitable only for those regions where phytophthora outbreaks are rare, because when growing susceptible varieties, more than 35% of the crop is lost.

All the same, it takes about 5% of phytophthora, but growing resistant varieties allows you to lose a minimum:

Variety Wizard has been known since 2000. Highly resistant to late blight. When susceptible varieties lost 51% of tubers, Charodey had no losses. Tubers contain a large amount of starch - 18-22%, they have an excellent taste.
Variety Tale- zoned in 2004. Highly high degree late blight resistance. The starch content is 14-17%.
Sort Peter's Riddle- zoned in 2005. Highly resistant to late blight.
Variety Lilac Mist- relatively resistant to late blight.
Variety Naiad- resistant to phytophthora on tubers.

And this is not the whole list of varieties.

When to start the "hunting season" for phytophthora

The season is open throughout the calendar year, because all agricultural practices reduce the harmfulness of the disease. Here they are:

selection of a resistant variety;
the use of healthy seed tubers and;

destruction;
proper nutrition plants (it is believed that potato varieties with the highest amount of starch are more resistant to late blight);
removal of tops two weeks before and gentle cleaning (carefully - into a bucket, from a bucket - immediately to or other storage places, without unnecessary transshipments);
quick drying during harvesting, fungicide treatment.

Perhaps, only the dressing of planting tubers does not give the effect that we would like.

In terms of time ... everything is more serious here. All guides give advice to start at the first sign. This is the time when the buds appear, when they open and the field becomes beautiful. That is, there are no definite recommendations. There is just a period: budding - the beginning of flowering. But after all, it is quite long, and it is difficult to find the first spots on the leaves on the field.

Give the biggest effect preventive treatments fungicides, that is, before the spread of the disease. If 1% of the entire surface of the leaves of the plant is affected, then the effect is noticeably reduced.

You can contact the specialists of the local plant protection station. If they track the development of phytophthora, then they can give advice. But it is impossible to ask for advice every day.

You can learn to determine the humidity in a potato field and correlate it with temperature. It is on the analysis of such data that a method has been created to help determine the prognosis for the development of the disease and the timing of treatments that can protect potatoes. The method was created at the All-Russian Research Institute of Plant Protection. But it is difficult for a summer resident.

The weather forecast will help determine the processing time

Gismeteo and other resources that acquaint you with the weather for several days in advance will help you determine the processing time. Recall the conditions that contribute to the development of phytophthora:

wet cool weather;
the time of budding and the beginning of flowering, when the tops are closed in rows, and the soil is under its canopy (there is no wind under the canopy, the soil does not dry).

Although the first signs may appear in other periods of plant development.

Therefore, any weather resource that provides a table will be convenient. Several parameters are immediately visible in the table: night and day temperatures, air humidity and precipitation.

First, we look at the forecast for the next two weeks, but it is not very accurate. If you look at the forecast for today's day and for the next four, then more accurate values are likely here. Then you can take into account the expected temperatures and precipitation, that is, cool days with rain. This determines the weather that is favorable for phytophthora.

This is the time when late blight goes on the attack. It does not matter that one day is promised to be dry, the rains have already helped, have already created the conditions. So, you need to carry out the treatment, spray the plants to protect against the disease.

Weather archive in Vologda in July 2016

Here, for comparison, archival weather data for the Biysk region of the Altai Territory.

Weather archive for June 2016 in Biysk region

Let's take data for two months.

Weather archive in July 2016 in Biysk region

Analysis of four screenshots of two summer months 2016 in different regions allows you to determine the patterns of forecasting periods with unfavorable and favorable conditions for the development of phytophthora. And that means the day when both the first treatment and subsequent ones are needed.

To reduce the number of treatments, consider the weather forecast

You can act according to the long-standing habitual scheme outlined in each manual for summer residents and gardeners. Then you can protect the potatoes, but there will be more treatments (spraying with fungicides). After all, there are simply defined terms and periods. For example, the first treatment on June 15, this is the middle of the “budding - the beginning of flowering” period and the detection of the first spots. And then just have time to count the days. But they are considered differently different varieties: for susceptible - after 7-10 days, for resistant - from ten days to two weeks. So for the growing season, not only 5 sprays will be typed, but all twenty.

And if you focus on the weather conditions and phases of plant development, the number of treatments is reduced, very significantly reduced. And it is important to remember that the active substance should not be used for treatments more than three times per season. Because there is no routine in planting protection.

We count the days

Each drug has its own duration of action. For example, copper preparations protect plants for 10 days, and Ridomil in collaboration with mancozeb for twelve days.

If you focus on the weather forecast, then it will be possible to carry out processing at the most the right time when phytophthora is most vulnerable. The forecast will allow not to do spraying if the weather is unfavorable for her. With this approach, it is possible to exclude (if necessary, necessary or possible) expensive drugs.

Interestingly, the conventional treatment scheme and the weather-based scheme can give almost the same protective effect. But! Accounting for the weather makes it possible to do only three instead of 8 treatments! Agree, this approach is more in line with the desire of summer residents and gardeners to grow a healthy crop with minimal use of chemical protection.

And if the potatoes are watered

Therefore, this factor must also be taken into account.

It is necessary to spray plantings from phytophthora 8 hours before watering, using preparative forms that are resistant to rain. If the first spots are found, then you need to stop.

I hope now it will be easier for you to deal with phytophthora if it visits your garden.

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