Roof eaves made of soft tiles. Installation of bituminous tiles - the device of the base, lining layer and coating. RUFLEX - universal quality coating

Bitumen shingles are one of the most popular roofing materials today. It is used to cover simple and complex roofs, the installation process itself is not very complicated. But there are several elements (nodes) on the roof that need to be treated with great attention in terms of proper styling the most bituminous material. These elements are:

Skate;
Cornice;
Endova;
Gable;
Chimneys and ventilation pipes;
Skylights.

What you need to know in order for the installation of bituminous roofing material to guarantee high quality coverage and reliability of the entire roof. Let's look at mounting technologies shingles in the places listed above.

Bitumen shingles on a ridge

Let's start the conversation with the fact that in the entire technology of laying bituminous tiles there is one material that fits under the roofing itself. This is the so-called subroofing substrate or carpet. It is made on the basis of bitumen and fiberglass and is roll material 1.0 m wide. Its installation is carried out by overlapping adjacent strips. And the main purpose is the alignment of the crate, the device of which is of a solid type.

When it comes to the roof ridge, it must be understood that this element closes the gap between the two roof slopes in order to prevent moisture from entering under the roof structure. But there is one more nuance here - this is a ventilation gap, with the help of which moist air vapor will be removed from under the roof. Therefore, laying bituminous tiles on a ridge is no different from other roofing materials. I.e:

The usual installation of the substrate is carried out, which is attached to the crate with nails, sometimes bituminous glue is used.
Then, according to standard technology, bituminous tiles are also laid.

It is important here not to close the ventilation gap with both materials. After that, the skate itself, made of metal or plastic, is mounted. To maintain the unity of the roof design, you need to paste over the ridge with special plates from the same material as the base soft roof. The device is simple but effective.

Attention! The edges of the bituminous tiles should go beyond the mounting holes of the ridge protective element at a distance of 5-10 cm.

There is a roof device in which ventilation is provided dormer windows located at the ends of the roof. And this means that the device for the ventilation gap on the ridge can not be used. In this case, the technology for laying shingles is very different from the previous one.

The substrate from one roof slope is transferred to the adjacent one, covering the roof ridge. The fastening of the edge of the substrate is provided with nails, glue must be used.
Bituminous tiles are laid according to standard technology, without closing the ridge device.
Special strips are mounted along the ridge gap, closing it. Fastening - nails and glue. Please note that in all cases the adhesive is applied in a wide strip (5-6 cm).

Bitumen shingles on roof eaves

Here everything is as simple as on a skate. Note that it is from the cornice that the covering of the entire soft roof begins. The tiles are laid end-to-end at a short distance from the cornice strip (approximately 1 cm). Elements are attached roofing carnations in the corners and at the petals (an average of 4-8 pieces).

A metal bar (cornice) is installed on top of the roofing material, which is attached to the crate through the coating with self-tapping screws. Fastening step - 20-30 cm, fastening shape - zigzag. Cornice strips are installed overlapping each other with an overlap of 10-12 cm.

Installation of bituminous tiles on the gable plank

The end plank is covered with bituminous tiles, like the entire roof area. That is, laying is carried out from the center of the plane, moving towards the gables. Usually, one element of the tile does not fit entirely at the edge of the roof; it must be cut with a knife to the required size.

Installation and fastening is the installation of overlapping panels from the bottom to the top. In this case, fastening is carried out with nails in the corners and at each shingle. But the very edge of the material must be glued. The adhesive is applied to the substrate in strips and leveled with a brush to a width of 5 cm. The material is pressed to the substrate by hand or rolled with a rubber roller. After that, a gable metal bar is laid on the roofing material itself, which is attached to the roof with self-tapping screws, like the eaves bar. Be sure to lay the upper element on the lower element with an overlap of 15-20 cm.

Installation of shingles on valleys

One of the most crucial moments in the entire installation process. Such roofing knots require a special approach. Here we have to take into account the fact that it is on the valleys that a large number of water. Therefore, there is a need to install a multi-layer structure.

First, a metal bar is installed and fastened on the valley, which repeats the shape and structure of the valley, that is, it is angular. The width of the closure of the roof slopes is at least 30 cm. Fastening to the crate - self-tapping screws.
Laying the substrate along the metal protective element. Fastening - nails and glue. The substrate must completely cover the metal corner bar with entry to the crate. Fastening is carried out on the crate.
The laid bituminous tile is cut to the shape and angle of the valley. This means that those panels that will close the valley to the corner will be trimmed.

Attention! Some manufacturers of shingles recommend a metal corner element lay an additional layer of underlayment, thereby ensuring 100% insulation of the roof. Such a device increases the cost of roofing.

Laying bituminous tiles at the junction

Let's look at the technology of covering junctions with bituminous tiles using an example brick chimney rectangular shape. It has four junctions, where two side planes will be sealed in the same way.

Laying will be done like this:

A rectangular piece is cut off from the underlayment carpet, which will cover the roof plane by 30 cm and part of the pipe to a height of 30 cm. It is cut in width to a size that is the width of the pipe plane and protrusions of 30 cm on each side. Fastening is done with nails and glue at the same time both to the plane of the roof slope and to the plane of the pipe.
Bituminous tiles are brought to the ledge of the chimney and fastened at the corners of the shingle.
Another layer of the substrate is laid, which overlaps the junction of the tiles and the pipe.

Attention! If shingles are used as roofing material for wooden house, then it is necessary to install a plywood apron around the chimney, on which all adjoining elements will be attached. This is a simple necessity so that when the house shrinks, the joints of all the materials present do not disperse.

The last step is installation metal bar, which will cover the substrate laid and fixed on the planes of the chimney pipe. The underlayment and shingles themselves must be fastened with nails and glue.

Often there are pipes on the roofs of houses round section. These are ventilation and sewer outlets. They are usually very easy to deal with. To do this, use special elements, which among experts are called caps. They can be made of plastic or special rubber. Attach the caps to the already laid underlayment with either self-tapping screws or nails, or use bituminous glue. Or all used in combination.

Here important point- accurately cut ordinary panel under the shape and size of the cap rounding. Then it is laid in place and fastened with nails. To increase the tightness of the junction, it is recommended to apply several strips of glue along the flange. It would be better if the glue is smeared over the plane of the flange with a brush or spatula.

Snow guards on soft roofs

Do you need snow guards for soft roofs? The question is not the easiest, because it is believed that bituminous tiles treated with granulate on top are a plane along which snow does not slide down like an avalanche. This is actually true, if we talk about roofs with a not very large slope, no more than 45 °. But there are after all blood, in which the angle of inclination of the slopes is 60 °. Nothing can be guaranteed here.

The flexible tile is good because it can be laid by one person, even without an assistant. This is possible thanks to light weight parts called shingles, and small size. The largest dimension of the shingle is a length equal to one meter. Roofing from soft tiles, the laying technology of which we will consider in this article, is a fairly simple matter, if you strictly follow the instructions and recommendations of the manufacturer of the purchased shingles. The main thing during the construction of the roof is to prepare the most even surface on which soft tiles will be laid.

Rafters for a soft roof are made in the same way as for any other roofing material. But the crate needs a two-layer. The first layer - to stiffen - is made from edged boards. The second is to create flat surface- made of moisture resistant plywood or OSB board. The device of a roof from a soft tile can be carried out differently. If the roof is made over a building where its insulation is not provided, then the nodes of the roofing "pie" will look like this:

Layer of soft tiles.
Lining carpet.
Moisture resistant plate OSB or plywood.
Edged board trim.
Rafter.

The "pie" of the insulated roof, under which the attic will be equipped or simply warm attic, will be like this:

Soft tiles.
Lining carpet.
OSB or plywood is waterproof.
Cutting board.
counter grating
Waterproofing.
Rafter.
Insulation.
Vapor barrier.
Noise isolation or an additional layer of insulation.
Sheathing for interior lining.
Internal lining.

The interior lining is usually done with drywall sheets, followed by wallpapering. But, to the taste of the developer, it can be done with clapboard, plywood, chipboard boards or OSB ... The order of work may be different. If the climate or weather permits, then of course it is more convenient to start with a vapor barrier. Fix it with an inner crate, lay a layer of sound insulation and sew it all up inner lining. After that, calmly lay insulation between the rafters, pull on the waterproofing and secure it with a counter-lattice. Further, everything is done in the same way as in the case cold roof. A crate is mounted from an edged board, an OSB board or plywood is laid, a lining carpet is laid and bituminous tiles are glued. If the summer is rainy, then it is wiser to first lay the roof in this order:

Waterproofing.
Counter-lattice.
Plywood or OSB are waterproof.
Lining material.
Flexible tiles.

After that, under the protection of the finished roof, you can do any work in the attic or in the attic. In more detail, the technology of lathing for a soft roof is discussed in the article:.

Instruments

To work with shingles, you need a fairly simple set of tools:

A hammer.
Cord.
Putty knife.
Metal scissors.
Roulette.
Sealant gun.
Roofing nails.

Laying technology, work procedure

By purchasing bituminous tiles, accessories and expendable materials, it is best to select them so that they are all from the same manufacturer. So it will be easier to follow the manufacturer's recommendations and the installation of a roof made of flexible tiles will not be as difficult as it seems at first glance. And the components of the roofing carpet will better "work" together.

Lining carpet

Underlayment is recommended to be laid over the entire surface of the roof. But if the slope of the slope is more than 18 °, then there is an opportunity to save a little. With such slopes, the lining material can only be laid along the perimeter of the roof - along the eaves, along the ridge, along the ends of the slope, along the outer bends of the roof, around chimneys and ventilation outlets and in valleys.

metal slats

A fully completed insulated roof eaves assembly will look something like this:

The drip bar is mounted directly on the rafter beams under the waterproofing layer. Its mission is to protect wooden structures(rafters and wind board) from condensate formed in the ventilation duct and flowing down waterproofing material down . After installation lining material fasteners for gutters are nailed to the eaves, in which these gutters are installed. Then, along the entire length of the eaves, a cornice strip is nailed so that its lower edge is inside the gutter. Thus, the water flowing from the roof is removed into the drainage system, without falling on the wooden structures of the crate and on plywood or OSB boards. If the roof is supposed to be “cold”, which means that there will be no waterproofing, then the drip bar is not needed. Gutter system also an optional element. Then you can only do cornice plank, which in such cases is sometimes also called a dropper.

At the ends of the roof, on the gables, starting from the eaves, they impose an end or wind bar with an overlap of at least 20 mm.

Alternatively, in the valleys, it is possible to lay not a valley carpet made of the same material as the shingles, but a metal valley.

In nature, it will look something like this:

Installation of flexible tiles

If there are valleys in the roof structure, then first you need to lay a valley carpet or mount a metal valley. After that, you can start laying the main sheet of the soft roof. The installation of bituminous tiles begins with the laying of the cornice row. For this, cornice-ridge tiles are used. If it was not on sale at the time of purchase, you can use an ordinary one by cutting off the petals. When laying soft tiles, follow the recommendations or instructions from the manufacturer.. In the valley, shingles can be laid in different ways:

As a result, it will look something like this:

Skate

Consider how you can make a ventilated ridge for a soft roof. His turn comes after the completion of laying the main sheet of shingles. In order for the air from the attic or from ventilation ducts of the insulated roof had the opportunity to escape into the atmosphere, when constructing the base, it is necessary to leave in the ridge knot the distance between opposite roof slopes within 200–300 mm.

And so that moisture from rain or snow does not get under the roof, this gap is closed with its “roof”. To do this, you can use ready-made ridge elements, such as:

Fasten with screws or nails according to the manufacturer's recommendation:

Or you can make a ventilated skate yourself, as shown in this video: It can be seen here that along the upper edge of the slopes, perpendicular to them, bars with a section of about 50x50 mm are nailed. The step of the bars is determined by the thickness of the plywood or OSB board so as to prevent the "roof" of the ridge from bending. The width of such a "roof" can be assigned independently, within reasonable limits. A protective ventilation mesh is attached to the ends of the bars so that debris, insects and small birds cannot get under the ridge knot. Finally, elements of ridge-cornice and ordinary tiles are attached to sheets of plywood or OSB boards. The result is shown in the photo below.

Alternatively, instead of a completely “breathing” ridge, it is possible to make the roof solid with the installation of ventilation hoods:

Subsequently, if the “power” of the ventilated ridge is not enough to ventilate the roof, special aerators can be placed on its surface, the attachment points of which are shown in the following video: On this, the roofing device can be considered complete.

Reading time ≈ 4 minutes

The use of a soft roof allows you to carefully and beautifully protect the roof, attic and attic from precipitation. It is possible to carry out the installation of bituminous tiles without the involvement of specialists. For correct execution work, you only need to study the instructions for the selection, use of materials and their fixation.

Preparing for the installation of a roof made of bituminous tiles

The main condition for obtaining quality roofing from a flexible tile is preparation of ideally equal basis. Therefore, after removing the old material, you need to go to the usual truss system nail plywood or OSB. Otherwise, the soft sheets of the roof will simply sag and you will have to re-cover the house.

Getting started and laying the first rows

For achievement maximum protection attic or attic floor from precipitation, it is recommended to use a special substrate. If the roof slope is insignificant (does not exceed 20 degrees), then fasten lining carpet allowed only in places of subsequent installation of additional elements. You should also immediately carry out the installation of metal protective strips for the cornice and facade. After the installation of shingles with your own hands is carried out according to the following scheme:

The cornice layers framing the roof are laid (they can be replaced with the tiles themselves, you just need to carefully cut it off). They are fixed over the planks with nails with large flat heads. For additional fixation of the roof, lubrication of the place where it will be laid is carried out, bituminous mastic.
The first row of tiles is being fixed. For this, it is recommended to take sheets from different kits. If they differ slightly, there will be no problems with color differences. It is necessary to lay the first row on top of the cornice layers with a slight rise (there should be a distance of about 1 cm from the edge of the end to the tile itself).
When fixing the tiles, the conditions for laying them out according to the pattern are observed. Excess parts are simply cut off. Sheets are fastened with flat-head nails. They provide a reliable clamping of the tile to the base and exclude its damage.

The specified instruction for the installation of a roof made of flexible bituminous tiles will allow you to quickly and correctly carry out the work, eliminate the main mistakes when laying materials. In addition, you should view educational photo and video materials that will help you see the process of preparing for installation and the laying of the roofing material itself.

Finishing work with shingles

After laying all layers of tiles, care must be taken to comply with good ventilation roofs. Therefore, it is recommended to install a ridge aerator in its upper part. It is a long bar with internal dividers and foam inserts. Such a roofing device made of bituminous tiles eliminates the penetration of moisture under the roof, the danger of settling wasps and other insects in the attic.

over ridge aerator it is necessary to fix the ridge tiles. It will additionally protect the aerator and achieve an aesthetic appearance of the roof. After fixing the ridge tiles, you can proceed with the installation of the gutter system.

Special requirements for the installation of a roof made of bituminous tiles

A prerequisite when working with a flexible roof is to take into account the rules for laying materials near pipes and with a multi-level transition between separate parts roofs. Modern technology installation of bituminous tiles, the use of metal junction strips, passage elements. For example, at the transition between different levels of the roof, it is necessary to fix the cushioning carpet with a plank, another layer of carpet must be laid on top of the overlap. Then the installation of the tile itself is carried out.

When framing a pipe on roofs, you must first select a passage element for it (used for round pipes). It will protect the roofing material from exposure high temperatures and rapid destruction. The laying and installation of tiles is carried out after cutting them to the shape of a pipe. Similar laying conditions bituminous materials exclude problems with the preservation of their original appearance, quality and condition.

Do-it-yourself shingle installation video

NODE 1

1 - truncated initial row of tiles;

2 - the first visible row of tiles;

3 - cornice metal apron / gutter (installed with an offset of ~ 3 cm);

4 - bituminous mastic;

5 - waterproofing membrane (overlap transverse - 200 mm, longitudinal - 100 mm);

7 - fixing nail;

8 - waterproofing overlap zone;

9 - base for tiles: oriented strand board (OSB 3) or plywood with increased moisture resistance (FSF) with a thickness of 9 mm or more.

Notes:

1. The truncated initial row of tiles is fixed along the lower edge with bituminous mastic, along the upper edge - with 4 nails (the axis of the nails is 5 cm below the upper edge of the strip);

NODE 2

3 - fixing nail;

4 - bituminous mastic;

5 - tile cutting line.

Notes:

NODE 2a

1 - waterproofing membrane;

2 - base for tiles: oriented strand board (OSB 3) or plywood with increased moisture resistance (FSF) with a thickness of 9 mm or more;

3 - fixing nail;

4 - bituminous mastic.

Notes:

1. This method of laying the valley should be used when the slopes of the slopes forming the valley are equal;

2. A waterproofing membrane 1 m wide is used as a protective lining layer (50 cm in each direction from the valley axis);

NODE 2b

1 - board (width 20–25 cm);

2 - waterproofing membrane;

3 - base for tiles: oriented strand board (OSB 3) or plywood with increased moisture resistance (FSF) from 9 mm;

4 - fixing nail;

5 - bituminous mastic;

6 - single main element;

7 - double main element.

Notes:

1. This method of laying the valley is used when the slopes of the slopes forming the valley are equal;

2. When making a valley with this laying method, it is recommended to compare the angle with a board;

3. A waterproofing membrane 1 m wide is used as a protective lining layer (50 cm in each direction from the valley axis);

NODE 2v

1 - waterproofing membrane "Safety Color" with a granular protective layer;

2 - base for tiles: oriented strand board (OSB 3) or plywood with increased moisture resistance (FSF) from 9 mm;

3 - fixing nail;

4 - bituminous mastic;

5 - tile cutting line.

Notes:

1. A waterproofing membrane 1 m wide is used as a protective lining layer (50 cm on each side of the valley axis);

NODE 3

1 - the last row of tiles (brought to the ridge line, the protruding part bends over the ridge and is fixed on the opposite slope);

2 - cut out ridge element;

3 - fixing nail;

4 - thermoadhesive self-adhesive bitumen dots.

NODE 4

1 - gutter;

2 - the gutter fastening hook is long (the installation step is 0.3 / 0.6 m for copper / steel, respectively);

3 - apron S14 cornice, development 20 cm (installed with a protrusion of ~ 3 cm);

4 - waterproofing membrane (overlap transverse - 200 mm, longitudinal - 100 mm);

5 - bituminous mastic;

6 - base for tiles: oriented strand board (OSB 3) or plywood with increased moisture resistance (FSF) with a thickness of 9 mm or more;

7 - frontal board;

8 - a bar 50x50 mm, installed along the rafters with a step of 0.3 m to provide the necessary ventilation gap between the crate and the insulation;

9 - rafter beam;

10 - drain funnel;

11 - vertical axis of the funnel.

Notes:

NODE 5

1 - apron S5 gable, development 20 cm;

2 - fixing clamp (installation step 30 cm);

3 - bituminous mastic;

4 - fixing nail;

5 - thermoadhesive self-adhesive bitumen dots;

6 - cut sheet of bituminous tiles;

9 - "wind" board;

10 - auxiliary bar.

Note: the upper corner of the tile sheet, suitable for the gable apron, is cut at an angle of 60° (50 x 30 mm).

NODE 6b

Installation of single aprons adjoining the roof to the wall

1 - apron S6 wall-mounted overhead sweep 15 cm;

2 - wedge-shaped bar-fillet;

3 - silicone sealant;

4 - thermoadhesive self-adhesive bitumen dots;

5 - fixing nail;

6 - waterproofing membrane;

7 - base for tiles: oriented strand board (OSB 3) or plywood with increased moisture resistance (FSF) with a thickness of 9 mm or more;

8 - self-tapping screw with a protective decorative cap;

9 - cut out element closing the corner;

10 - bituminous mastic.

Note: such a variant of the adjoining device can be applied in the absence of the likelihood of movement roof structure(i.e. after shrinkage of the house) and is not used for the construction of roof connections to brick pipes with a separate foundation.

NODE 7

1 - snow retainer;

2 - fixing nail / self-tapping screw;

3 - thermoadhesive self-adhesive bitumen dots;

4 - base for tiles oriented strand board (OSB 3) or plywood with increased moisture resistance (FSF) with a thickness of 9 mm.

Note: fixing hole and the head of the nail / self-tapping screw is recommended to be sealed with bituminous mastic.

NODE 8

1 - a hole for an aerator 11 x 23 cm, cut through a solid wooden base of the roof;

2 - aerator sole;

3 – aerator cover;

4 - fixing nail;

5 - bituminous mastic;

6 - thermoadhesive self-adhesive bitumen dots;

Notes:

1. Aerator "Special" has an air outlet area equal to 132 cm 2 and is installed no further than 50 cm from the ridge line;

2. Cover hole 1 with an aluminum insect screen 17 x 29 cm.

NODE 8a

Installation of aerator "Standard" (with a slope of slopes of more than 60 degrees)

1 - a hole for an aerator 32 x 7 cm, cut in a solid wooden base roofing;

2 - aerator sole;

3 - material laid on the aerator cover;

4 - fixing nail;

5 - bituminous mastic;

6 - thermoadhesive self-adhesive bitumen dots;

7 - base for tiles: oriented strand board (OSB 3) or plywood with increased moisture resistance (FSF) with a thickness of 9 mm or more.

Notes:

1. Aerator "Standard" has an air outlet area equal to 138.6 cm 2 and is installed no further than 50 cm from the ridge line;

2. Close hole 1 with an aluminum insect screen 38x20 cm.

NODE 9a

1 - rafter beam;

2 - bar 50x50 mm;

3 - base for tiles: oriented strand board (OSB 3) or plywood with increased moisture resistance (FSF) with a thickness of 9 mm or more;

4 - insulation;

5 - steam diffusion membrane "Difbar";

6 - aluminum mesh from insects, width 20 cm;

8 - apron S8 of the ridge aerator, 5 cm development.

Notes:

1. On the ends ("gables") of the ventilation ridge, it is recommended to install a metal gable apron S5, 20 cm development;

2. This version of the ventilation ridge device is recommended for buildings located in the forest, lowlands, in areas with dense buildings.

NODE 10

2 - waterproofing membrane, size 1x1 m;

3 - fixing nail;

4 - bituminous mastic;

5 - base for tiles: oriented strand board (OSB 3) or plywood with increased moisture resistance (FSF) with a thickness of 9 mm or more.

Stage I: Draw the inner and outer contour through element. Cut a hole in the solid base of the roof along the inner contour of the passage element.

Stage II: Fix the passage element on a solid base with nails (15 cm step) and bituminous mastic. Apply bituminous mastic outer surface passing element.

Stage III: Lay tiles. Install the exit on the gate of the passage element, check the verticality of its installation and fix it with four self-tapping screws from the delivery set.

Notes:

1. Bituminous mastic is applied in strips 2-3 cm wide with an interval of 1.5-2 cm; layer thickness no more than 0.5-1 mm;

2. The cone of the antenna outlet seal is cut to the outer diameter; the antenna mast is fixed with a metal clamp.

NODE 10a

Installation of ventilation, sewer and antenna outlets on the finished roof

1 - passage element for ventilation, sewer and antenna outputs;

2 - bituminous mastic;

3 - self-tapping screw.

Stage I: Install the passage element on finished roof and outline along the inner contour. Cut a hole according to the outlined outline. Lubricate the installation site of the element with bituminous mastic.

Stage II: Press the passage element tightly and fix it to the roof base with screws 3. Ventilation, antenna and other outlets are attached to the passage element with self-tapping screws contained in the delivery set.

The roof made of bituminous soft tiles is easy to use, durable and aesthetic. Its big plus is that it is quite possible self-assembly. The technology is not the most complicated, the weight of the fragment is small, it is attached to adhesive base, are additionally fixed roofing nails. So the installation of soft tiles with your own hands can be done even alone.

Roofing cake for soft tiles

The attic under the roof can be warm or cold, depending on this, the composition changes. roofing cake. But its part from the rafters and above always remains unchanged:

waterproofing is stuffed on the rafters;
on it - bars with a thickness of at least 30 mm;
solid flooring.

Here we will consider these materials in more detail - from what and how to make, what features each of them has.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing membranes are available in one, two or three layers. Single-layer membranes - the simplest and cheapest, perform only a dual task - do not allow moisture to pass towards the room and release vapors to the outside. So in a simple way not only the attic is protected either from the penetration of condensate or suddenly leaked precipitation, but it is also removed from the air excess moisture accompanying human life. Single-layer membranes are poorly represented on the market. Practically they are produced by one company - Tyvek.

Two and three-layer membranes are more durable. They, in addition to the waterproofing layer, also have a layer that gives greater tensile strength. The third layer, if any, is the absorbent layer. That is, even if a drop of condensate has formed on the surface of the membrane, this layer absorbs it into itself, preventing it from spilling onto other materials. With sufficient ventilation, moisture from this layer gradually evaporates and is carried away by air currents.

Three-layer membranes (for example, EUROTOP N35, RANKKA, YUTAKON) are desirable if your attic is insulated and used as a heater mineral wool. It is afraid of getting wet and with an increase in humidity by 10% loses half of its thermal insulation properties.

If under soft tiles there will be cold attic, it is desirable to use a two-layer waterproofing membrane. In terms of strength, it is much better than single-layer ones, and at a price it is only a little more expensive.

crate

over waterproofing film, parallel to the overhang, the lathing strips are stuffed. They are necessary to create a ventilation gap. It will support normal humidity roofing materials.

The crate is made from boards conifers(mainly pine trees). The thickness of the boards is at least 30 mm. This is the minimum gap that will ensure the normal movement of air in the under-roof space. Before laying, the wood must be treated with an impregnation that protects against pests and fungi; after drying this layer, it is also treated with fire retardants, which reduce the combustibility of wood.

The minimum length of the board for the crate is at least two spans of rafters. They fasten and connect over rafter legs. You can't connect them anywhere else.

Flooring

The flooring under soft tiles is made solid. Materials are selected based on the fact that nails must be driven into it, therefore they are usually used:

OSB 3;
moisture resistant plywood;
tongue-and-groove or edged board of the same thickness (25 mm) with a moisture content of not more than 20%.

When laying flooring under soft tiles, it is necessary to leave gaps between the elements to compensate for thermal expansion. When using plywood or OSB, the gap is 3 mm, between edged boards 1-5 mm. sheet material fasten with a run-out of seams, that is, so that the joints are not continuous. Fasten the OSB with self-tapping screws or ruffed nails.

Using boards as flooring, it is necessary to ensure that the annual rings of the wood are directed downwards. With the reverse arrangement, they will be arched, soft tiles will be lifted, the tightness of the coating may be broken. There is another trick that will allow you to save wood flooring smooth even if the moisture content of the boards is above 20%. When laying the ends of the boards, they are additionally fastened with two nails or self-tapping screws hammered close to the edge. This additional fastener will prevent the boards from bending during shrinkage.

The choice of the thickness of the material for flooring under soft tiles depends on the pitch of the crate. The larger the pitch, the thicker the flooring required. The best option- frequent step and thin plates. In this case, a light but rigid base is obtained.

Another point concerns the installation of flooring for soft tiles around the chimney pipe. With a brick pipe, the width of which is more than 50 cm, a groove is made behind it (pictured). This design, reminiscent of a mini-roof. It separates the rain streams, they roll down the sides of the pipe without flowing into the under-roof space.

After installing the flooring, its geometry is checked. The length is measured, the width of the slope at the top and bottom, the height of the slope on both sides, the diagonals are measured. And the last check - tracking the plane - the entire slope must lie entirely in the same plane.

Soft tile roofing technology

When buying, you will most likely be provided with instructions for which the installation of soft tiles will be described step by step and in detail, indicating all the exact dimensions that this particular manufacturer requires. These recommendations should be followed. However, it is worth getting acquainted with the order of work and their volumes ahead of time - in order to understand the intricacies of installation and required quantity materials.

We must say right away that it is necessary to handle soft tiles when laying carefully - she does not like it if she is bent. Therefore, try not to bend or crush the shingles unnecessarily (this is one fragment consisting of a visible and mounting part).

Overhang reinforcement

The drip bar is installed first. This is an L-shaped sheet of metal coated with paint or polymer composition. polymer coating more expensive, but also more reliable. The color is selected close to the color of bituminous tiles.

Drip bar installed along the roof overhangs

The task of the drip bar is to protect the crate, sections of rafters and flooring from moisture. With one edge, the dropper is laid on the flooring, with the second it closes the overhang. It is fastened with galvanized (stainless steel) nails, which are hammered in a checkerboard pattern (one is closer to the fold, the second is almost at the edge). Fastener installation step - 20-25 cm.

The drip bar is sold in two-meter pieces. Having laid the first element, the second is fixed with an overlap of at least 3 cm. If desired, the gap can be closed: grease the joint with bituminous mastic, fill it with sealant. At the same stage, it is mounted, in any case, hooks are nailed that will hold the gutters.

Laying waterproofing carpet

Regardless of the angle of the roof, a waterproofing lining must be laid in and along the slope. It is sold in meter wide rolls. An adhesive is applied to the underside, covered with a protective film or paper. Before laying, the paper is removed, the valley carpet is glued to the flooring.

Installation of a waterproofing carpet begins with laying it in the valley. Roll out the material of a meter width, distributing 50 cm on both sides of the bend. Here it is desirable to do without joints, but, if necessary, the overlap of two canvases should be at least 15 cm. Laying in progress from bottom to top, the junction is additionally smeared with bituminous mastic, the material is well pressed.

Next, a waterproofing carpet for flexible tiles is laid along eaves overhang. Minimum Width carpet on the cornice overhang - the size of the overhang itself, plus 60 cm. The lower edge is located on top of the drip, it can bend down a few centimeters. First, the carpet is rolled out, if necessary, cut, then the protective film is removed from the inside and glued to the substrate. Additionally, they are fixed along the edges with stainless steel or galvanized nails with a large flat hat (step 20-25 cm).

In places of a horizontal joint, the overlap of two canvases is at least 10 cm, in the vertical direction - at least 15 cm. All joints are additionally smeared with bituminous mastic, the material is crimped.

Lining carpet

Underlayment carpet, as well as waterproofing, is sold in rolls of meter width, backside coated with adhesive. The laying method depends on the slope of the roof and on the profile of the selected shingles.

When using shingles with cuts (such as Jazz, Trio, Beaver tail), regardless of the slope, the lining carpet is spread over the entire surface of the roof.

Underlayment installation often requires undercutting. This is done with a sharp knife. In order not to damage the material below when cutting, enclose a piece of plywood or OSB.

Fronton (end) plank

Gable strips are mounted on the side sections of the overhangs. These are strips of metal bent in the form of the letter "G", along the fold line of which there is a small protrusion. They cover the laid roofing materials from wind loads, from moisture ingress. The gable plank is laid on the flooring over the lining or waterproofing carpet, fixed with nails (stainless steel or galvanized) in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 15 cm.

These planks also come in pieces of 2 m, stacked with an overlap of at least 3 cm.

Slope marking

To make the installation of soft tiles simple, markings in the form of a grid are applied to the lining carpet or flooring. Do this with a painter's cord. The lines along the cornice overhang are applied at a distance equal to 5 rows of tiles, in the vertical - every meter (the length of one flexible tile shingle). This markup is done easier styling- the edges are leveled along it, it is easier to track distances.

Valley carpet

On top of the already laid waterproofing carpet, another valley material is laid. It is slightly wider, serves as an additional guarantee of no leaks. Without removing the protective film from the underside, it is laid, cut at the bottom in the overhang area, and the boundaries are marked. Deviating from the mark of 4-5 cm, a special mastic of increased fixation Fixer is applied. It is applied from a syringe, with a roller, then rubbed with a spatula into a strip about 10 cm wide.

A valley carpet is laid out on the mastic, the folds are smoothed out, the edges are pressed. Stepping back from the edge by 3 cm, it is fixed with nails in increments of 20 cm.

Connection to a brick pipe

To bypass pipes and ventilation outlets, patterns are made from a valley carpet or galvanized metal, painted in the appropriate color. The surface of the pipe is plastered, treated with a primer.

When using a valley carpet, a pattern is made so that the material enters the pipe by at least 30 cm, and at least 20 cm should remain on the roof.

The pattern is smeared with bitumen mastic, placed in place. the front part is installed first, then the right and left.

Part of the side elements is wrapped on the front part. Back wall installed last. Its parts go to the side.

At correct installation on the flooring around the pipe, a platform is obtained, completely covered with a valley carpet. Before laying tiles in this place, the surface is smeared with bituminous mastic.

The tile from three sides enters the laid carpet, not reaching the walls of the pipe 8 cm.

The upper part of the junction is sealed with a metal strip, which is attached to the dowels.

All gaps are filled with heat-resistant sealant.

Conclusion of round pipes

For a pass ventilation pipes There are special pass-through devices. They are arranged so that the lower edge of the element extends at least 2 cm onto the tile.

Having attached the passage element to the roof, its inner hole is circled. A hole is cut in the substrate along the applied contour, into which a round pipe is led out.

The back of the skirt of the passage element is smeared with bituminous mastic, set to the desired position, and additionally fastened around the perimeter with nails. When installing soft tiles, the penetration skirt is smeared with mastic.

The shingle is cut as close as possible to the ledge of the penetration, the gap is then filled with mastic, which is covered with a special UV-protective dressing.

starting strip

The installation of soft tiles begins with the laying of the starting strip. Usually this ridge eaves tiles or ordinary with cut petals. The first element is laid on one of the edges of the slope, going to the edge of the gable plank. The lower edge of the starting strip is laid on the drip, stepping back from its fold 1.5 cm.

Removed from the back before installation. protective film, the shingle is leveled and laid. Each section of bituminous tiles is fastened with four nails - at the corners of each fragment, stepping back from the edge or perforation line 2-3 cm.

If a cut from an ordinary tile is used as a starting strip, in some part of it there will be no adhesive composition. In these places, the substrate is smeared with bituminous mastic.

Installation of soft ordinary tiles

There is a flexible tile with an applied adhesive mass, protected by a film, and there is a composition that does not require a protective film, although it also fixes the elements well on the roof. When using the first type of material, the film is removed immediately before installation.

Before laying bituminous tiles on the roof, several packs are opened - 5-6 pieces. Laying is carried out from all packs at the same time, taking one shingle from each one in turn. Otherwise, there will be pronounced spots on the roof that differ in color.

The first shingle is laid so that its edge does not reach the edge of the starting strip by 1 cm. In addition to the adhesive composition, the tiles are also fixed with roofing nails. The number of fasteners depends on the angle of the slope:

When installing soft tiles, it is important to drive in nails correctly. Hats should be pressed against the shingle, but not break through its surface.

Valley design

With the help of a paint cord in the valley, an area is marked in which nails cannot be driven in - this is 30 cm from the middle of the valley. Then mark the boundaries of the gutter. They can be from 5 to 15 cm in both directions.

The upper corner, which is turned towards the valley, is cut

When laying ordinary shingles, nails are driven in as close as possible to the line beyond which nails cannot be hammered, and shingles are trimmed to the floor of the gutter laying line. To prevent water from flowing under the material, the upper corner of the tile is cut obliquely, cutting off about 4-5 cm. The loose edge of the tile is smeared with bituminous mastic and fixed with nails.

Decoration of the pediment

On the sides of the slope, the tiles are cut so that 1 cm remains to the edge (protrusion) of the end plank. The upper corner of the shingle is cut in the same way as in the valley - a piece of 4-5 cm obliquely. The edge of the tile is smeared with mastic. A strip of mastic - at least 10 cm. Then it is fixed with nails, like the rest of the elements.

If the flooring in the area of the ridge is made solid, a hole is cut along the ridge, which should not reach the end of the rib 30 cm. ridge profile with ventilation holes.

It is fixed with long roofing nails. On a long skate, several elements can be used, they are joined end-to-end. The installed metal ridge is covered ridge tiles. A protective film is removed from it, then the fragment is fixed with four nails (two on each side). The installation of soft tiles on the ridge goes towards the prevailing winds, one fragment overlaps the other by 3-5 cm.

The ridge tile is a ridge-eaves divided into three parts. A perforation is applied on it, a fragment comes off along it (first bend, press the fold, then tear off).

The same elements can be cut from an ordinary tile. It is divided into three parts, not paying attention to the drawing. At the resulting tiles, a corner is cut off - about 2-3 cm on each side. The middle of the fragment is heated building hair dryer on both sides, laid in the middle on a bar and, gently pressing, bend over.

Ribs and kinks

The ribs are covered with ridge tiles. A line is beaten off along the bend at the required distance with a masking cord. The edge of the tile is aligned along it. Laying of flexible tiles on the edge goes from bottom to top, each fragment is glued, then stepping back from the top edge of 2 cm, fixed with nails - two on each side. The next fragment comes to the laid 3-5 cm.

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