How to drain the cellar from dampness. Is it possible to dry the cellar with a heater. Drying basements with high humidity. Internal drainage system

Owners of private houses should have an idea how to dry the basement when the humidity level rises.

Dampness in the cellar can be caused by various reasons: flood, penetration ground water, the appearance of condensation on the walls.

Sometimes it is possible to get rid of moisture quickly and without serious financial costs.

In other cases, in order to dry the cellar, serious construction work and some financial injections will be required.

It was necessary to take care of waterproofing and ventilation of the basement at the construction stage. But you can take measures to eliminate high humidity in the finished building.

How to prevent dampness at the construction stage:

When building a cellar in a private house or garage, do not use bricks and porous materials (foam and expanded clay blocks, shell rock). best material for walls and floors - this is concrete;
Spend construction works in summer in dry weather to prevent groundwater from entering the pit;
Make waterproofing walls and floors;
Take care of ventilation. Properly organized air exchange will prevent the appearance of condensate on the walls and the appearance of mold;
Pay attention to the groundwater level, if there is a risk of flooding, make an external or internal drainage system.

If groundwater does not rise above floor level, then bitumen or heated mastic can be used to waterproof the basement.

After being applied to the walls and ceiling, the materials polymerize and form on the surface protective film. A more reliable method of protection is penetrating waterproofing.

The material impregnates the walls, while changing their structure. Penetrating insulation reliably plugs all microcracks, makes concrete more frost-resistant and strong.

There is also membrane-type waterproofing based on polymers. After application, the material transforms into a membrane that is impermeable to water.

Correctly organized ventilation in the basement it consists of an exhaust duct and supply openings.

The exhaust duct is installed in one of the corners of the room, on the ceiling or on the top of the wall.

The upper end of the pipe is located 0.5 meters above the ridge part of the roof. The air duct is installed strictly vertically, in order to reduce the amount of condensate, its outer part should be insulated.

Fresh air is supplied through the supply opening to the basement, the air duct is installed in the corner opposite from the hood.

Moreover, the lower part of the channel should be located 30 cm from the floor. The supply and exhaust openings are closed mosquito net. Such ventilation works under the influence of natural traction force.

Fresh air enters the lower part of the cellar, gradually warms up, rises and is removed through the exhaust vent.

The best time to drain a basement in a house or garage is summer. Old stocks have almost come to an end, and the period of new blanks has not yet begun.

Previously, the basement is completely freed from stocks of fruits, vegetables and conservation. It is also necessary to dismantle and remove all structures intended for storing supplies.

The doors to the room should be left open for several days, thanks to which the basement can be quickly dried from the settled condensate.

While the room is ventilated, take care of the structures taken out of the basement. Wooden shelves need to be dried in the sun and rinsed soapy water.

In conclusion, the tree is covered with a layer of whitewash with the addition blue vitriol. To destroy mold, you can burn the structures with a blowtorch.

Metal elements also need to be dried, then cleaned of rust and painted.

After airing the basement, the walls and floor are cleaned of debris and treated with a solution of potassium permanganate.

To finally destroy the mold and larvae harmful insects, the basement after airing is recommended to be fumigated with special smoke bombs with sulfur.

You can buy them in stores selling agricultural equipment.

If the basement still has a high level of humidity and mold, then it is recommended to resort to one of the forced dehumidification options.

What additional devices can be used to dry the cellar in the house or garage:

Metal brazier - as a brazier, you can use an old metal bucket with holes made in the bottom for traction. You need to attach legs and a hook with a cable to the bucket, with which the brazier will go down. The bucket is filled with firewood or charcoal. After kindling the flame, the brazier goes down and is installed on a flat, non-combustible base. To completely dry the basement, the fire must burn for at least 12 hours. It is forbidden to go down into the basement during fumigation; to add fuel, the bucket must be pulled up. You can use the brazier to dry the cellar only in rooms with a concrete or earthen floor;
Candle - in order to dry the cellar after the penetration of groundwater, an ordinary lit candle is placed in an iron can and placed near exhaust opening. Entrance doors while remaining open. The burning flame increases the draft, the air exchange is more intense, the stale air is replaced by hot streams from the street. In order to dry the underground, instead of a candle, you can use a burner with dry alcohol;
Electrical appliances - in the middle of the basement, an infrared or oil heater. This method can take a long time, so if possible, it is better to replace the heater with a heat gun. Thanks to high power heat gun, this method can be used to dry basements even after the penetration of sewage and groundwater.

Drainage system device

With a high level of groundwater, it is necessary to take care of the device during the construction of the basement drainage system.

If this is not done, then the subfloor will periodically be subjected to flooding. The most commonly used external drainage system, it can be built around an already finished building.

The main difficulty is that you will have to dig out the foundation around the entire perimeter of the building. If this is not possible, it is better to settle for more accessible internal drainage.

The basis of the drainage is a perforated pipe, through the holes of which groundwater and precipitation will seep. The pipe is laid at the level of the sole along the entire perimeter of the basement.

Keep in mind, internal drainage does not guarantee a 100% result. In addition, after the completion of all work, the basement will be at least 30 cm lower.

Therefore, this method is resorted to only as a last resort.

Internal drainage device:

Dry the basement well after groundwater penetration;
Waterproof walls, preferably with penetrating materials. As a last resort, use liquid rubber;
Dismantle the finished floor (if any) and pour on base plate a layer of rubble;
Lay perforated pipes on top of the crushed stone pillow and lead them outside the basement into a well to collect water;
Lay a layer of insulating material on a crushed stone pillow and make concrete screed. This will be the new floor.

External drainage device:

After removing the formwork, cover the foundation with hydro insulating materials;
Dig a drainage trench around the foundation. The ditch should be located under a slope to the place of water collection (drainage well);
Dig up drainage well. It should be at a distance no further than 10-15 cm from the cellar. Strengthen the walls of the well casing pipe 300 mm in diameter and at least 3 m deep;
Make a trench for the pipe connecting the drainage and catchment well;
Place on the bottom drainage trench geotextile and pour a layer of gravel;
Lay down drainage pipes, cover with gravel and overlap with geotextile edges;
Connect the drainage catchment well with a pipe;
Fill the trenches with the previously selected soil.

Construction work to be carried out better in summer. If the basement is located on a site with loose soils, then the walls of the trench must first be strengthened.

How to dry the cellar if the basement is made in violation of hydro or thermal insulation? This is pressing question for most summer residents and residents country houses. Wet cellar is unsuitable for proper storage vegetables and preparations for the winter, so today we are talking about ways to remove condensate and improve the functioning of the room.

How to find the source of moisture

It is necessary to drain the basement if:

Moisture drips on the walls and ceiling. To establish the reason why water appears in the basement, you can conduct a simple experiment. Glue a piece of polyethylene 30x30cm onto a previously dried surface area, reinforcing the edges with a sealant. Check the piece after a couple of days. If droplets appear under the polyethylene, then the water comes from the foundation, and if from above (and the place under the polyethylene is dry), then the reason is the improper drying of the walls or their poor insulation from the outside.
The walls are heated if the blind area is from external walls the basement is made without a slope, or the concrete is cracked. That is why, in rainy or snowy weather, liquid accumulates there, seeps down the wall and forms wet spots inside on the walls, and water can cover the floor.

Liquid can seep into the cellar if the house does not have a roof drainage system or is faulty. Flowing close to the walls rain water get into the storage.
Dense shrubs and shady trees growing in close proximity to basement, prevent normal soil ventilation and moisture stagnation.
Water in the cellar may appear due to a malfunction of the water supply system if the pipes are under the floor.
Dampness can increase with the destruction of waterproofing in an underground room.

Important! It is better to focus on eliminating not the consequences, but the causes of flooding.

Preparatory work before autumn

To start the drying process, you need:

Clear all shelves of stored vegetables and preparations.
Dismantle all wooden elements: racks, shelves, coasters, barrels. Take them outside, wash them hot water and soapy water, dry.

Important! For guard wooden elements from mold, apply a layer of whitewash (lime) with copper sulfate.

To prevent the formation of mold, apply an antiseptic impregnation to the tree, which can be bought at the store.
Whitewash the ceiling and walls, and open the manhole door to dry.

Forced Drying Methods

If all the work did not give the expected result, then you will have to force-dry the room. There are main ways to drain the cellar:

brazier work;
candles that increase air draft;
dryer action.

Important! Periodically drain a wet cellar at high groundwater or for cleaning after flooding, a pump for pumping water from the basement will help. We recommend that you definitely purchase such a device, it will become an assistant in many other everyday problems.

Speed drying with a roaster

You can get rid of dampness in storage using a conventional portable brazier. Before that, dry the room naturally, and the brazier will only “finish off” the rest of the condensate. The drying process looks like this:

Open all ventilation openings. Light a fire in the brazier.
Lower the fixture to the bottom. This can be done by hand or with a rope and a hook.
Keep it just long enough to remove dampness.
According to all the laws of physics, dry and warm air gradually rises, thereby displacing the damp.

Before you start, you should consider some of the nuances:

For ignition, use wood chips and sawdust. As soon as the fire takes root, put in larger firewood.
Do not extinguish the drug before the entire room is filled with smoke and hot air. This kills all biological activity indoors.

Important! It does not always happen that the condensate disappears immediately after the procedure, if necessary, repeat the manipulation again.

Drying the basement with a candle

This method is not suitable for all rooms, since it is possible to get rid of water in the cellar with a candle only in small areas.

Install a regular candle in a jar.
Place it directly under the ventilation pipe.
Place burning paper in the pipe, which will give a boost to the draft.
Burning fire increases traction, so wet air stretches out, giving way to dry.

Important! This method will be applicable for those who have 3-4 days left to dry. Stock up on a few candles or replace them with an alcohol burner.

Air dryers

To quickly dry a room with a large perimeter, special dehumidifiers will come to the rescue. These devices will allow you to dry and maintain the storage in good condition.

Important! The most relevant dehumidifiers for large-sized vegetable stores or cellars large area. You can buy them in any hardware store. It is better to ask the consultant, explaining the pressing problems of your storage.

The principle of operation is that the air, passing through the dryer, is cooled, and the liquid settles in a special receiver, after which it drops into a sump. The feature is not in heating, but in cooling the air. Modern appliances work on the basis of freon, like refrigerators or air conditioners.

Interesting! These devices are suitable not only for the cellar, but also for other rooms.

How to isolate the cellar from moisture

Proper waterproofing of the cellar from groundwater guarantees protection against moisture penetration inside through the foundation of the room. There are several types of insulation.

Coating. Processing with hard bitumen or mastic of the internal and external walls of the foundation with a brush.
Okleyechnaya. It is carried out with rolled insulating materials like roofing material. The main disadvantage of operation is the presence of joints.

Plaster. Processing of all foundation surfaces with polymer cement compositions, which seals all cracks and holes in the blocks.
Bulk. flooring two-component formulations based on cement and sand (screenings, crushed stone). Filling provides for the complete filling of the floor area so that there are no gaps or untreated places.

Ground water in the cellar may periodically appear in small quantities, even if the foundation is isolated. It depends on the location of the room, on precipitation and other weather conditions.

The heater can be lowered into the cellar if the degree of moisture does not exceed 60%. You need to monitor its position and do not leave the device turned on without your presence at home.
The fan heater works on the same principle, but contributes not only to heating the air, but also to its movement.

AT small room easy to use silica gel. Distribute it in bags indoors. The granules will gradually absorb moisture.
Calcium chloride powder is able to absorb moisture in a volume that is twice the volume of the powder itself. Place the drug on an inclined board. Place one end of the board in any container. After drying, the powder can be easily reused.

High groundwater can be redirected with an external drainage system, which will allow it to be diverted away from the foundation.
The mold is washed off with boric, acetic or citric acid.

Eliminating moisture in the basement is a rather laborious process, so it is better to take care of dryness with waterproofing in advance during construction. If a problem occurs, use the suggested methods and extend the life of the cellar.

Video: How to dry the cellar with a fan

In order to keep vegetables and other products in good condition for a long time, the cellar must be prepared accordingly. With the onset of summer, when it is already quite warm and the cellar is freed from vegetables, it is opened and warm and fresh air is allowed to dry it.

It should be remembered that due to dampness, mold and fungus may appear in the cellar.

To begin with, the basement must be freed from all kinds of partitions, shelves, drawers. All this must be disassembled, taken out of the basement, rinsed well with a hard sponge with water and laundry soap and dry in the sun. If available in the cellar wooden shelves or partitions they need to be properly disinfected.
To do this, the walls and floor of the basement are treated with a 10% solution of copper sulfate using a sprayer. You can apply lime by sprinkling it on the floor. You can prevent the appearance of mold on the walls by fumigating them with garden sulfur, which can be freely bought in gardening stores.

Disinfection and air exchange

To disinfect the premises, the walls are whitewashed with slaked lime or chalk, adding vitriol (100 g per 10 l of water) to it.

There is another way to use lime: in the basement, pour into a large container quicklime, counting 1.5 kg per 5 m³ of the basement, and fill it with water, no need to stir. You must immediately leave the cellar so as not to inhale the harmful vapors of lime. After 2-3 weeks, this procedure is repeated.

In order to avoid dampness in the cellar, it is necessary to establish good air exchange.

For this, ventilation is done using two pipes with a diameter of 12-16 cm, it depends on the volume of the basement than more basement, the larger the diameter of the pipes must be taken. They are laid in different corners of the cellar so that one pipe is inlet and lets in flows. fresh air into the room, the other - exhaust, removed the musty air from the basement to the outside. Each pipe must have a valve to regulate the flow of air into the cellar, for example, if it is damp and rainy outside, it is better to cover supply pipe so that damp air does not enter the basement. How you organize ventilation depends on whether your cellar will be dry.

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How to dry a cellar

Vegetables, laying in the basement, must first be dried, freed from dirt, so they will last longer and better, and there will be less dampness in the basement. If suddenly, for unknown reasons, your basement has become damp, dry the wet cellar in one of the following ways.

First of all, you can dry the basement so old folk way like using candles. The ventilation pipe is extended so that it is at a distance of 15-20 cm from the basement floor, and a lit candle is placed under it in some container. Next, paper is set on fire in the pipe in order to initially create thrust, which will then be maintained by the flame of a candle. When the candle burns out, it is replaced with a new one. In this way, a small basement can be dried in 3-4 days.

Another proven one involves using an old metal bucket. It is placed in the middle of the cellar and a fire is made in it, supporting it until the basement is completely dry. Hot air quickly displaces musty, damp air from the basement. In addition, smoke perfectly disinfects the room - it destroys mold on the walls and evicts various unnecessary insects for a long time.

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What is the danger of dampness in the basement

Excessive humidity in the basement must be dealt with, since mold and fungi that appear as a result of dampness can spoil not only food and vegetables, but also the building materials from which the cellar is built. It is possible to get rid of them by fumigating the cellar with sulfur. To do this, all objects in the basement are cleaned of mold, and a brazier with very hot coals is placed in the middle of the cellar, and a vessel with sulfur is placed on it. At the same time, the cellar is tightly closed for several hours, blocking the flow of fresh air. At the end of the procedure, the brazier is removed and the basement is thoroughly ventilated.

Mold can be controlled by using a porcelain vessel in which 2 kg of salt is placed and poured with 18 cups of sulfuric acid. Prior to this event, all products must be taken out of the basement, and all hatches and openings must be closed. The procedure lasts more than 2-3 hours, and then the basement is plowed up and well ventilated. It is strictly forbidden to be in the cellar during this procedure, since the substances released as a result of the reaction are very harmful and adversely affect the respiratory system.

Excess moisture in the cellar occurs due to various factors. The root cause is usually an initially improperly designed and built room for storing vegetables, fruits and conservation. If the problem already exists, there are well-established, time-tested budgetary ways how to dry the cellar. More convenient methods have also appeared, but rather energy-intensive and costly in terms of money. But in any case, after drying the cellar, it is recommended to disinfect it.

Prevention of moisture accumulation in the cellar

In order not to run into a problem in the future, how to dry the cellar in a garage or a private house from dampness, on early stages construction, care must be taken to comply with all norms and rules for ventilation and waterproofing (vapor barrier) of the premises.

Walls and floors are best poured with concrete based on high-quality cement (to save money, it is allowed to add low-quality substances to the solution to improve moisture repellency).
With the proximity of groundwater, external waterproofing will be required. It can be both in liquid form and rolled. Protection against water is selected according to the criterion of reliability and financial capabilities.
If the cellar is designed on a slope, then drainage pipes will be an indispensable addition in the fight against the penetration of moisture into the storage.
It is necessary to make a special blind area around the entrance to the cellar, to prevent precipitation from entering it.
In the basement, a supply air and exhaust ventilation in different corners of the vault (diagonally). Diameter 12.5 cm is optimal size for ventilation ducts or pipes. The first pipe is installed without bringing it to the floor 10-15 cm - it will be responsible for the flow of air from the outside. The second, for the hood, is fixed below the ceiling level within 10-2o cm. All ventilation is protected from direct precipitation and debris, but with a good gap. It makes sense to fix a device on the exhaust duct to stabilize the draft and circulation. ventilation pipes installed vertically, do not tilt the pipe more than 30°. The length of the channel with a slope cannot exceed one meter.
The room for storing fruits and vegetables in the garage or under the house is insulated with a vapor barrier to reduce the possible penetration of moisture into the lower (basement, cellar, cellar) and upper levels of the premises (rooms of the house, garage, utility block).

Storage floor structure

The main cause of waterlogging of the cellar are closely spaced groundwater. The initial competent floor device will prevent the problem excessive moisture in the basement. There are several ways to install a waterproofing floor.

Most often, the floor remains earthen. Water from the lower layers through the capillaries penetrates the floor surface. To prevent the need to dry the cellar from dampness, the earthen floor is leveled, rammed and covered with a dense film or roofing material. To protect the coating from tearing or breaking, apply wooden shields (possible reasons pavement violations: foot pressure, installation of boxes with sharp corners, inadvertent displacement of heavy objects).
An earthen floor can be reinforced with clay padding, that is, covering the entire floor with a compacted mixture of clay and sand. This operation, which allows you to dry the basement by building a natural barrier to the exit of moisture, is carried out in four steps:

One layer of crushed stone or broken brick, and fill the space between the stones with a thick mixture of clay with the addition of sand (clay is taken with a good percentage of fat content, and the floor level should rise by 15 cm after pouring).
The clay is rammed very tightly.
Scatter sand on the compacted floor and rub it. The excess is removed with a broom and a scoop.
The created clay floor must be well dried for two to four weeks.

The most profitable way to improve the waterproofing of the floor and avoid the regular drying of the cellar is to make it concrete and with a good drainage system. True, this is the most expensive method, requiring special knowledge and skills.

If, after all the manipulations with the floor, the level of humidity in the basement or garage drops significantly, then you will no longer need to worry about how to dry the cellar from dampness every year (especially during the spring rise of groundwater).

Improving wall waterproofing

Weak moisture insulation of the walls of structures is another reason for waterlogging the basement of a garage or a separately equipped cellar. Brick walls have many pores through which moisture penetrates and condenses out. The problem is solved in several ways:

Create external insulation against moisture. If possible, remove the soil from the walls and apply a two-layer bitumen mastic or resin.
Make an internal waterproofing layer (use special impregnations with a penetration depth of up to 0.5 m, clogging the pores of the cellar walls).

Good supply and exhaust ventilation and sufficient waterproofing of the floor and walls will be the key to a dry basement. But how to dry the cellar when the water has already penetrated inside and started its negative impact? The choice of method of dealing with dampness depends on the presence of ventilation in the cellar.

Dehumidification of a ventilated basement

In the basement of any type, a number of works will have to be carried out, but first it is necessary to remove the stocks stored there, dismantled structures (shelves, racks, decks), storage containers (boxes, boxes, barrels) from the cellar. All wood structures must be dried in the sun and treated with a 5-10% solution of copper sulfate, regardless of whether they have been damaged by pathogenic microflora.
The second step is to whitewash the walls with a double layer of lime.

The lime is diluted so that the solution does not drain from the paint brush (you can add a 5-8% solution of copper sulphate).
Divide the lime mash into two equal parts.
The first part, with the help of a paint brush, is spaced in the corners of the cellar and thrown with effort on the walls (you can also on the ceiling), without trying to get flat surface but without forgetting about safety.
A day later, the second part of the solution is also smeared on the walls.

End result on the third day internal surfaces cellars become porous and bumpy. Moisture in the form of condensate is not retained on them, as lime takes water into itself. As soon as it dries upper layer lime, it is worth starting to dry the basement.

Cellar drying scheme with ventilation

1. Check if the ventilation is properly arranged (if the defects are not corrected, the cellar will have to be dried again, almost a couple of days after the drying procedure).

2. Check the cleanliness of the ventilation ducts or pipes (remove all dirt, mold or moss).

3. Strengthen the air ventilation process:

Installing the fan exhaust pipe. At open doors and hatches, the cellar will dry out (depending on the amount of accumulated moisture and weather conditions) in the range from 3 to 10 days.
Organization of ventilation enhancement using a small heating device (candle, dry alcohol tablet, alcohol burner). To do this, increase the ventilation pipe above the ceiling so that it can be substituted under it a heating element on a non-flammable base. Warm air will increase circulation and speed up the drying of the basement.

4. Warm up the cellar, if forced ventilation failed to dry out the basement. The process of drying by heating is carried out in stages:

We take a metal bucket (preferably not new).
We make a lot of holes in it, both in the walls and at the bottom.
falling asleep charcoal almost to the top of the container.
We kindle the contents of the bucket and wait for a steady burning.
We lower a bucket of coal inside the cellar on a leash (the bucket should hang in the immediate vicinity of the bottom of the storage and a refractory substrate should be placed under it).
We close the cellar lid tightly (as tightly as possible so that the smoke goes into the ventilation).
We periodically open the manhole cover to let oxygen into the room to be dried or increase ventilation with a vacuum cleaner through the supply pipe.
We take out a bucket with burnt coals.
Seal the lid tightly for three to four days.
We ventilate the dried and disinfected cellar.

Do not forget that the decision on how to dry the cellar must be safe both for those who warm up and for the room itself. Combustion is always fire, smoke, carbon monoxide.

With this method of draining the basement, the bucket can be replaced with other heating devices. A small stove is quite suitable - a potbelly stove, heat gun with good power (more than 3 kW), serviceable kerogas, gas-burner(Caution - open fire).

Drying the cellar without ventilation

A cellar that is not equipped with ventilation naturally accumulates dampness. Here the question arises: how to dry the cellar without ventilation and at the same time not harm health with smoke or carbon monoxide? The answer is obvious - it is impossible to do. We'll have to install at least the simplest ventilation.

Prior to the installation of ventilation ducts, moisture can be collected in the basement by several simple ways. This will require materials high level hygroscopicity:

Sawdust - regularly change wet to dry.
Calcium chloride - place around the perimeter and in the center of the cellar (you can ignite, not forgetting that it is caustic, and use it many times).
Slaked lime - spread along the walls and on the shelves.
Ordinary thick cardboard from furniture packaging or boxes - lay out dry and change when wet.

In addition, there are high-tech ways to dry the cellar from dampness. For example, dehumidifiers, which are most often used for rooms where there is open water (pool, jacuzzi, decorative pond). True, the cost of a dehumidifier ranges from 20 thousand rubles and more. But they will perform their function properly when drained. damp basement, it is only necessary to drain the water collected by them in time.

Ways to combat pathogenic microorganisms

Excess moisture, not dried in time in the cellar, leads to the mass development of harmful microorganisms. All kinds of molds and fungi multiply intensively and cause harm, like everyone else. wooden structures, and stored in open form products. Spores of harmful microflora have a very detrimental effect on a person in an infected basement.
There are the following available funds to combat pathogenic microorganisms:

Quicklime (set a barrel of lime in the ratio of 3 kilograms of dry lime per 1 cubic meter of volume, fill it with water, leave the room, seal the basement, ventilate it in two days).
Sulfur checker (you must first take out metal objects from the cellar or cover them with a layer of grease. Install the checker on a fireproof stand, set fire to the wick, trying not to inhale smoke, quickly leave the room to be treated, close the hatch and ventilation tightly, ventilate every other day for a day).

How to deal with moisture after flooding the cellar

Cellar flooding can occur due to rising groundwater, rainfall intrusion, or accidental flooding. The reason is not important when it comes to deciding how to drain the cellar from groundwater or how to dry the basement in the garage from excess moisture. The scheme is simple:

Pump out or drainage pump water from the storage floor.
Clear out the basement.
Dry a couple of days with an open hatch and ventilation.
Collect garbage.
Whitewash with lime.
Dry the cellar in one of the above ways.

There is settlements where basements of private houses and cellars are regularly flooded. In this case, it is necessary to strengthen the drainage of the floor.

Upon completion of technological and production tasks related to arrangement sewer system in apartment building, a production building, as well as in a private household, it is required to test the system involved by the forced flow method. This task was applied to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire sewer part involved and the act of testing the systems internal sewerage and drains will be material evidence of work on the acceptance of the object.

A visual check should be accompanied by inclusion in the act of testing internal sewerage systems and drains according to SNIP, which is currently submitted current regulations applications of the "D" series, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 "Internal sanitary systems of the building", a new updated working version of SNiP 3.05.01-85 has recently been applied.

For perfect use window technologies not the last place is played by metal ebbs on the windows, which are the most important detail decoration of window groups for the facade of the building. The main and, perhaps, one of the leading values metal ebbs on external windows, this is protection against moisture ingress, prevention of the effects of precipitation and other negative factors that are characteristic of natural phenomena. The ingress of moisture without the presence of ebbs leads to the rapid destruction of the structural elements of the building, reduce performance characteristics the property as a whole.

Additionally, a metal reflux with a polymer coating plays not only a protective function, but also original decorative characteristics, giving high aesthetics to the facade of the building as a whole. Installation is carried out both at the stage of completion of construction, and in the process of carrying out finishing works for window openings or for the facade of the property. Priority and rational option is the installation of a metal brown tint with a diameter of 5 cm until the completion of the finishing process of the building. In this situation, the installation will be less expensive and allows you to detect defects in a timely manner. The second option is also common, but it requires extreme accuracy, and in some cases it is necessary to invest additionally cash in order to achieve a high design solution.

Almost any experienced builder and the expert will tell you, the Grand Line gutter system is the embodiment of unsurpassed quality and reliability in operation. If we look at the installation instructions drainage system grand line, then note that turnkey solutions have a high European quality execution. The main technical components and assemblies are made of hot-rolled galvanized roofing steel, which has a double-sided polymer coating based on polyurethane. The modern Grand Line gutter system is not subject to corrosion, has a sufficient service life, and is not affected by external factors, including the negative effects of ultraviolet radiation, aggressive materials of a chemical nature that can get into melt or rainwater.

The Grand Line drainage system brand first saw the light in 2005, and since that time the products have been repeatedly modernized and improved, as a result of which it was possible to design a drainage system for a residential building or production building at the factory. It should also be noted that the composition of the drainage Grand systems Line has been improved every year, and use high quality PVC, advanced galvanized steel, modern materials based on plasticizers and stabilizers, as well as imported plasticizers. All these factors make it possible to operate the popular Grand Line drains in any climate zone peace.

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