What screws are needed for osb. How to properly lay OSB (OSB) on a wooden floor. OSB fastening through the use of battens

OSB (OSB) or OSB (oriented strand board) is a modern structural material that has become a serious alternative to plywood, chipboard and is widely used in construction frame houses and decoration of buildings and structures. OSB boards are sheathed on interior and exterior walls, floors and roofs. Wall cladding with OSB boards takes place in frame construction when the slab acts as a structural material and serves to reinforce the walls of the building, or when it acts as a facade material of concrete, brick or wooden houses, which is caused by a low price and high strength and durability of the material. In this article we will consider the question: how to fix the OSB boards to the wall from its outer side.

For cladding exterior walls, it is necessary to use boards with the OSB-3 brand, specially made for environments with high humidity. About how the types of OSB sheets differ can be found on the page: OSB sheets, their types, characteristics, sizes.

When installing OSB boards to external walls, the crate is used for the following purposes:

• alignment of the plane of the wall;
• creation of a ventilation gap for insulation under the OSB plate;
• prevention of deformation of the slab caused by base movements, especially important for OSB slabs with a thickness of 9 mm or less.

Fastening OSB boards to the wall over the insulation using the crate

The slab is fastened to the wall using a crate, which is made of a wooden block or a metal profile. The technologies for mounting OSB boards on a wall with a wooden crate and a crate made of a metal profile do not fundamentally differ. When choosing a bar, it is advisable to choose a dry, planed bar of 40-50 mm, then it will not turn out and will not lead after drying, which will positively affect the evenness of the entire wall.

To attach the bar and profile to the wall, special metal plates (suspensions) are used. Before attaching the suspensions, it is necessary to draw vertical stripes on the wall, the distance between which should be half the width of the sheet, which subsequently will ensure the joint of the plates right in the middle of the bar or profile and will make it possible to fix the OSB plate in the center along its entire length. After the lines are drawn, hangers are attached along them in increments of 30-40 cm.

A metal hanger is used to fasten the crate.
Hangers are attached along the marked lines. Hangers allow you to fix the crate over the insulation.

After that, the insulation is laid and covered with a membrane that protects the insulation from moisture, after which the crate is mounted.

It should be noted that a vapor barrier is not needed outside the building, since it prevents moist air from entering the insulation from inside the room, and from the outside of the building, excess moisture should freely go outside.

Wall with a crate. Insulation is laid between the crate and the wall.

After fixing the crate, you can proceed with the installation of OSB boards. For wall cladding, a plate from 9 to 12 mm thick is most often used. If a facade is not mounted on top of the slab, then the slab must be moisture resistant. OSB boards are fastened to the crate of a wooden beam with nails at least 2.5 times long more thickness OSB sheet. To the crate from a metal profile - to self-tapping screws for metal 10-15 mm longer than the thickness of the OSB sheet.

With this installation, the crate weighs over the insulation, and does not create cold bridges in the insulation between the wall and the OSB boards. Thanks to this solution, maximum efficiency of the heater is achieved. In addition, between the bars of the crate is air gap, through which moisture is removed from the insulation, which also increases its characteristics. More detailed information about the technology of a ventilated facade is in the article: ventilated facades, types of ventilated facades.

Fastening OSB boards to a wooden frame

During the construction of frame houses with wooden frame two main approaches are used: fastening OSB sheets to the frame through the crate and fastening OSB sheets directly to the frame without crate. Consider the case of fastening OSB boards using a crate.

When strong plates are attached to the frame from the inside of the wall, providing good rigidity of the wall structure, then a crate can be made from the outside between the frame and the OSB board. The crate forms air cavities for ventilation of the insulation and reduces deformation loads from the frame to the OSB board.

Insulation is placed between the racks of the frame. On top of the racks and insulation, a wind- and waterproofing membrane is attached, which easily passes moisture. Next, the crate is attached and OSB boards are attached to it.

Installation of OSB boards on a wooden frame with a crate.

With this design, the plates can be left unfinished, you can paint them, plaster or fix almost any facade material.

When fixing OSB slabs without using lathing, the maximum rigidity of the wall structure is achieved. In this case, it is recommended to fasten the wind and waterproof membrane behind the OSB plate, then mount the crate to create a ventilation gap and facade material, such as siding, boards or decorative panels, on it. OSB boards are fastened to a wooden frame with nails at least 2.5 times the thickness of the OSB sheet.

The advantage of using nails over self-tapping screws when fastening OSB from the outside of the house is justified by the fact that nails better tolerate deformations of OSB sheets under atmospheric influences.

The technology of fastening OSB sheets to a wooden frame without the use of crates.

For example, when building a frame house using the Finnish technology "Platform", there is no crate between the frame and OSB foxes. More details about this technology can be found in the article: construction of a frame house using the "Platform" technology.

Fastening OSB boards to a metal frame

Fastening is carried out similarly to the variant with a wooden frame. When attaching plates directly to metal frame use self-tapping screws for metal with a length of 10-15 mm more than the thickness of the OSB sheet.

General rules for mounting OSB boards to the wall

Regardless of the chosen method of fastening OSB sheets, there is general rules, observance of which will ensure maximum strength, reliability and durability of the sheathing structure.

• Self-tapping screws should be screwed at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other and at least 1 cm from the edge of the plate.
• A gap of 10 mm is required between the bottom plate and the foundation to prevent water accumulation.
• The plates cannot be butted close to each other, a gap of 2-3 mm is required between them so that the plate can expand freely from moisture changes.
• All door and window openings are cut with a jigsaw or circular saw, but if you need perfectly even joints and cuts, then you can finished sizes and OSB sheets arrive at furniture shop, where for a small fee they will cut your sheets on a panel saw exactly and exactly in size.

Wall cladding with OSB boards

The technology of sheathing the walls of the OSB house with slabs from the outside of the wall. How to fix OSB boards on walls with and without wooden and metal lathing.

How to properly fix the osb plate on the roof

Proper laying of OSB-3 (OSB) - how to work with OSB yourself

Proper styling OSB-3 (OSB) - how to work with OSB yourself

Plates are used for laying OSB on walls. different thickness and productions. The selection of material is made in accordance with the operating conditions of the premises. Depending on what climatic loads the house will carry, the type of OSB used is selected. It is worth noting that laying OSB 3 makes sense when high demands are placed on the material for moisture resistance and strength.

If the plates are used for sheathing small room, it is allowed to use OSB 3 with a thickness of 10 mm. In other cases, experts advise using sheets with a thickness of 12 mm. Mounting of plates is allowed along or across the structural beams. In the case of horizontal installation, the plates must be provided with stiffeners under all joints and free edges. Plates can be supplied on one or both sides frame structure. The interaxal distance between the beams should be 40 ÷ 60 cm. The expansion gap between the walls and near the openings should be at least 3 mm wide.

The boards are fastened with nails exceeding the thickness of the boards by about 2.5 times. If spiral nails are used, their length must be at least 51 mm. In case of using ring: 45 mm ÷ 75 mm. Nails are hammered at a distance of at least 1 cm from the edge of the plate. Fasteners are placed every 30 cm on intermediate supports and every 15 cm on OSB 3 joints.

The principle of laying OSB 3 on the floor

Hard and load-resistant boards should be used for laying the floor. Most suitable laying OSB-3. If the sheets will be mounted on a concrete screed, then the required layer thickness should be 6 ÷ 9 mm. If the laying of the plates will be carried out directly on the logs, then the layer thickness should be 15 ÷ 22 mm (in the case of laying the plates in one layer) and 9 ÷ 12 mm (in the case of a double layer). The center distance between the bars should be 60 cm. The distance between the lags varies depending on the thickness of the plates used.

In the case of laying OSB-3 close to the ground, care must be taken to create a waterproofing layer on the outside of the floor. It is also necessary not to forget to provide drainage holes.

In order to calculate the required number of plates, you need to add the required amount of material for undercuts to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room (no more than 7%). After that, the resulting number is divided by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone sheet and determine the required amount of material.

Plates are laid perpendicular to the axis of the bars. When laying sheets, a temperature gap should be left in order to allow the plates to work. The size of the provided gap is most often 3 mm, but in the case of laying plates between the walls, 12 mm should be left. The plates are connected on logs, or, if necessary, on an additional support or with a bracket.

As well as in the case of wall laying, the nails used for wall fastening can be ring or spiral, with the same dimensions. The center distance between the fasteners should be 30 cm on the supports and 15 cm on the material joints. It is acceptable to use glue to increase the rigidity of the floor.

Basics of the correct laying of OSB 3 on the roof

To lay OSB-3 on the roof, you must first prepare the surface well - it must be as even as possible. Irregularities in the future can spoil the appearance of the coating. If laying is done on unheated premises in the future, then you need to think about sufficient ventilation in advance. To do this, it is necessary to provide for the presence of holes, the number of which must be at least 1/150 of the total area. It is also necessary to dry well the sheets used for coating in case of inadvertent wetness.

The slabs should be laid along the bars, while paying attention to the fact that each slab is located on at least two bars and connected on a support. If necessary, additional supports can be created. When laying the plates, it is necessary to provide a gap of 3 mm to prevent the consequences of temperature changes.

The requirements for fasteners are the same as in the case of wall and ceiling sheathing: spiral 51 mm nails or ring nails with a run-up of length from 45 mm to 75 mm. Nails are driven in every 30 cm on rafter legs and every 15 cm on slab joints. The distance from the edge of the slab to the nail is at least 1 cm. The center distance of the rafters is 60 cm (9 ÷ 12 cm thickness of the slabs) and 100 cm (15 ÷ 18 cm).

If there is a chimney, the sheets must be moved away from it in accordance with Building Regulations.

During the installation of OSB 3 on the roof, all safety rules at height must be observed.

Installation of OSB roof sheathing with shingles

Before installing the roof sheathing, make sure that the rafter legs or the sheathing form a flat surface. Crooked or uneven rafter legs will affect the final look of the roof and make installation difficult. Rain-soaked slabs should be left to dry completely and protected from biological corrosion before tiles are laid, roofing sheets or other coverage. Moisture should not exceed 20% of dry weight. Cold attics should be well ventilated. Ventilation openings must be at least 1/150 of the entire horizontal surface on the roof.

It is necessary to leave a gap of about 3-4 mm between OSB sheets, because. due to changes in temperature and humidity, linear expansion of the sheets occurs. The absence of a gap can lead to deformation of the base. The slab must be laid on at least two supports, and the joints of the slabs must also fall on the supports.

Desired thickness OSB sheets determined by the project. The designer determines the thickness of the plywood to be used over step crate depending on the planned loads (the step of the crate is also determined by the designer). Rafter legs, step, section and fastening design are also determined based on the project.

An example of a preliminary assessment of the dependence of the distances between the battens and the thickness of the OSB slab used for roofs with a slope of more than 20 degrees, a rafter pitch of 600 mm and a snow load of 100 kg/sq.m.:

If there are openings for chimneys in the roof structure, then the roof sheathing must be moved away from the chimney by a distance that complies with the accepted Building Regulations. To fasten the boards, spiral nails with a length of 51 mm or ring nails with a length of 45 mm to 75 mm should be used. Nails are driven in every 30 cm on rafter legs or battens and every 15 cm on slab joints. The distance from the nail to the edge of the slab should not be less than 1 cm.

OSB boards also work well with prefabricated roof trusses. Prefabricated trusses speed up the process of building a roof and simultaneously provide a surface for roof sheathing, laying insulation and finishing the ceiling. In most cases, trusses are supported on external walls - without intermediate supports on internal walls. This option increases the load on the trusses in case of a large distance between the walls, but gives more freedom in choosing the placement of internal partitions.

How to properly fix the osb plate on the roof

Correct laying of OSB-3 (OSB) - how to work with OSB on your own Proper laying of OSB-3 (OSB) - how to work with OSB yourself To lay OSB on walls, plates of various thicknesses are used ...

OSB APPLICATION GUIDE

OSB GUIDE TO ORIENTED STRAND BOARD (OSB)

1. Plate orientation:

This structure provides a high level of: Dimensional constancy; Fracture resistance (flexural strength); Shear strength inside the slab.

inscriptions (marking) on ​​the edge of the plate. On cut panels

the longitudinal axis is perpendicular to the marking on the panel surface.

Therefore, during installation, it is necessary to observe the correct orientation of the slab specified by the designer (especially in single-layer building structures).

2. Acclimatization of plates and protection against water and humidity

A room with constant heating 6 - 9%. Premises with periodic heating 9 - 10%. Room without heating 16-18%

OSB boards during their storage and use must be protected from water.

After installation on the outside of the building, on the walls and roof, it must be covered with appropriate insulation to protect against adverse weather conditions. The edges of OSB 3 boards (especially at the edges) are exposed to high humidity, may swell moderately (in accordance with the norm). In this case, before installing the final elements (eg asphalt shingles on the roof), it is necessary to evenly sand the slab joints (to ensure an even surface). To prevent damage to OSB boards, it is necessary to eliminate excessive moisture, which can be caused by:

1. Using too wet or wet materials;
2. Installation on non-dried objects built using "wet" processes;
3. Errors during insulation work (water leakage into the building, improper installation of a vapor barrier, etc.);
4. Insufficient weather protection ( external walls and the roof must be protected with appropriate insulation immediately after installation).

3. Cutting, milling, drilling

feed used when processing solid wood. The slabs must be fixed in such a way that the slabs do not vibrate during processing. It is allowed to cut slabs with the use of hand power tools

4. Mounting plates

The minimum diameter (section) of the staples should be 1.5 mm with a length of 50 mm; For OSB board, you can use nails as for solid wood, screws or staples. When mounting load-bearing structures, it is necessary to use connecting elements made of stainless materials (galvanized or of stainless steel). Strengthening the strength of the connection can be achieved by using special nails; circular or helical (plain nail nails are not recommended.) . The length of the connecting elements must be at least 2.5 times the thickness of the board to be attached, but in no case less than 50 mm; the distance from the connecting element to the edge of the slab must correspond to seven times the diameter of the connecting element (i.e. when using nails with a diameter of 3 mm - at least 20 mm); the maximum distance between nails driven into the edge of the slab should not exceed 150 mm; the maximum distance between nails hammered in the middle of the slab should not exceed 300 mm; plates with even edges are mounted on supports (ceiling frame, ceiling beam); fastening of OSB boards of small thickness must be started from the middle of their upper part and evenly continue fastening in the direction to the sides and down (to prevent swelling and deflection of the board).

5. Dilation gaps

(lat. dilatatio - extension)

1. When installing the plates as a supporting structure of "floating" floors, it is necessary to leave a gap of about 15 mm wide when they are joined to the wall.
2. When installing plates as wall cladding, it is necessary to leave a gap of about 10 mm wide when they are joined to the foundation;

If the length of the surface on which the slabs are mounted exceeds 12 m, it is necessary to leave expansion gaps between the slabs with a width of 25 mm every 12 m.

• plates with even edges - it is necessary to leave gaps between them at least 3 mm wide when joining.
• plates with milled edges ("comb - groove"). When docking, dilatation gaps are formed by themselves.

Expansion gaps 3 mm wide must also be left when joining plates with other structures, for example, with a window frame, doors, etc.

6. Surface protection and paint application

paint manufacturers. For internal surfaces which will be painted, we recommend using sanded boards. To paint the surface of the boards, you can use the usual colorless or colored paints used for painting wood.

7. Application

A2 - Roof detail with prefabricated wet environment

B1 - Roof detail with asphalt pavement

B2 - Asphalt roof detail for wet environment

C - Detail of the outer load-bearing wall

D1 - Detail of internal load-bearing wall

D2 - Detail internal partition

E1 - Floor detail with "light" floating floor

E2 - Floor detail with "heavy" floating floor

F - Tables for preselection of slabs

G - Basic principles for the use of OSB boards in wooden structures and buildings

h2 - General principles creation of ceiling and floor structures

h3 - General principles for creating structures for external and internal load-bearing walls

p - General principles for creating pitched roof structures

8. Basic principles for the use of OSB boards in wooden structures and buildings.

resistance to the damaging effects of biological factors. In order to ensure a long service life and reliability of new wooden structures and buildings, it is necessary to analyze all designed structures in terms of possible diffusion and condensation of water vapor or the ratio of temperature and humidity, as well as the corresponding stable moisture content of the wood, for compliance with the requirements that establish environmental parameters for the use of OSB boards .

wood moisture chart

The main difference in the possible limitation of the influence of water vapor penetrating through the structure follows from the method of analyzing the properties of the vapor barrier layer. Vapor barrier building structure limiting the penetration of water vapor from environment inside the building structure, due to the equalization of temperature and water vapor pressure in the internal and external environment. For

this process, as a result of lowering the temperature below a certain value, condensation of water vapor may occur. The resulting condensate can have a negative effect on the properties

building structure or reduce its service life. Limiting the penetration of water vapor into the structure means limiting diffusion (penetration of water vapor caused by partial pressure) and moisture flow (penetration of water vapor caused by air current). In the specialized literature, one can find a classification of materials for a vapor barrier layer according to the equivalent diffusion thickness. The equivalent diffusion thickness Sd (m) determines the air gap, which provides the same resistance to water vapor as the corresponding layer of the building structure.

The Sd value is not the diffusion resistance value of the structure layer given in m/s-1). A significant increase in moisture in the outer layer compared to the calculated model at the site of damage to materials is caused by the spatial distribution of moisture and their unequal properties.

The difference in material properties can be caused by the following:

1. violation of technological discipline
2. poor-quality connection of certain types of materials and their contact with openings and surrounding structures
3. compound aging

1. OSB-2 Carrier boards for use in dry environments (12% humidity resistance)
2. OSB-3 Carrier boards for use in humid environments (24% humidity resistance)

OSB boards are classified as OSB-2 and OSB-3 according to the standard.

It is characterized by moisture content in structural materials, which corresponds to a temperature of 20°C. and relative humidity of the ambient air, exceeding the value of 65% for no more than a few weeks a year. The average stable moisture content of most conifers does not exceed 12%.

It is characterized by the content of humidity in structural materials, which corresponds to a temperature of 20 ° C and a relative humidity of the ambient air exceeding 85% for no more than a few weeks a year. The average stable moisture content of most conifers does not exceed 20%.

It is characterized by climatic conditions that contribute to an increase in the moisture content of materials compared to humidity class 2.

9. Ceiling structures

1. Plates with even edges should be mounted on load-bearing beams with an expansion gap of 3 mm.
2. Plates with tongue-and-groove edges must be glued together with glue (for example, polyurethane) to increase rigidity.
3. Mount all plates in such a way that their longitudinal axis is perpendicular to the beams.
4. Check that all faces perpendicular to the longitudinal axis lie on the beams.
5. The width of the expansion gap along the perimeter of the walls must be at least 15 mm.

Fasteners:

1. Nails 2.5 times the thickness of the slab, minimum 50 mm, with helix or grooves if possible.
2. Screws with a length of 2.5 times the thickness of the board, at least 45 mm. (recommended screws with a minimum size of 4.2 x 45 mm).
3. The maximum distance between nails is 150 mm at the joints of the boards, 300 mm at the plane of the board.
4. Nails are driven in at a distance of at least 10 mm from the edge of the slab.

Under the wooden ceilings of the first floor, located above the base, waterproofing is laid directly on the base to protect against moisture (film). During installation, protect the ceiling structures from possible exposure to rain. When the ceiling is open, holes must be made in it for the drainage of water. Recommended max. center distance between racks: min. the recommended plate thickness is 15 mm. 18 mm. 22 mm. The center distance between the uprights is 300 mm. 400 mm. 600 mm. 800 mm.

Center distances between racks are indicative. Dimensioning is carried out taking into account the length of the slab and a certain exact value of the load on the slab.

10. Floor constructions on the bearing crate

The installation principles are the same as in the case of ceiling installation. When installing the boards, first lay a soundproof layer on the bearing bars (pillows) to absorb the sound of footsteps.

11. Designs of "floating" floors

The floor structure consists of one OSB plate (OSB, OSB), "comb-groove" thickness. 18 - 22 mm or from two plates (recommended) thickness. 12 - 18 mm (min. 9 mm). The spreading floor surface can consist of a single slab

OSB, for floors without high demands shape constancy, or in cases where no concentrated load is expected (in places above the tongue-and-groove connection). Otherwise, use a two- or multi-layer floor structure.

The slabs are laid on soundproofing to absorb the sound of footsteps (rigid mineral wool or polystyrene mats intended for use in floor constructions). Separate layers of plates are laid in mutually perpendicular directions and connected by gluing along the surface or by screws. When using screws, we recommend connecting the boards in both directions or laying an intermediate layer between them (extruded microporous polyethylene or PSUL sealing tape) to prevent possible creaking.

12. General recommended principles for the creation of structures for external and internal load-bearing walls

1. OSB boards used for walls are mounted vertically or horizontally. When installing load-bearing walls, it is recommended to use boards that correspond in length to the height of the walls (to facilitate the determination of the required dimensions and the installation of boards).
2. When installing plates horizontally, it is necessary to place strips of plates or stiffeners under all joints and free edges.
3. The slabs can be fitted with a wooden frame structure on one or both sides. Plates are allowed to be mounted on the outer and inner sides of load-bearing walls.

To prevent possible water absorption, the expansion gap between the frame and the concrete foundation must be at least 25 mm wide. Expansion gaps can be formed by installing the entire wooden

structures on wedge pads, and fill the entire gap under the supporting wooden frame cement mortar. If the frame is installed directly on the foundation, then it is necessary to provide its chemical protection and raise the plates above the foundation level to a height of at least 25 mm. An expansion gap of at least 3 mm wide must be left between the walls and along the perimeter of door and window openings.

1. Nails with a length of 2.5 times the thickness of the slab, at least 50 mm, if possible, with a spiral or grooves.
2. Screws with a length of 2.5 times the thickness of the board, at least 45 mm (recommended screws with a minimum size of 4.2 x 45 mm).
3. Nails are hammered at a distance of at least 10 mm from the edge of the slab, in load-bearing walls - at a distance exceeding 7 times the diameter of the fastening material (at least 20 mm)
4. The recommended thickness of the slabs for sheathing the walls of the frame is at least 12 mm with the racks located every 400 - 625 mm.

Thermal and waterproofing plates:

1. As an additional heat and sound insulation, it is recommended to use mineral wool from the front side. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the method of fastening this facade system.
2. When using slabs for wall cladding on the outside, the diffusion resistance of the slab to the penetration of water vapor must be taken into account. On the other hand, slabs mounted on the inside of the wall can serve as a structural element with diffusion resistance (provided that the joints of the slabs and structural elements of the corresponding insulating tape). When using tongue-and-groove plates, the tape can be replaced by gluing the tongue in the groove with glue (PUR, PVA).
3. Bottom edge seam wooden structure with the foundation must be covered with a protective waterproofing composition (for example, based on bituminous emulsions).

1. plate thickness; 9 - 12 mm. 12 - 15 mm. 15 - 22 mm.
2. At the edges of the plate; 100 mm. 125 mm. 150 mm.
3. On the surface of the plate; 200 mm. 250 mm. 300 mm.

For load-bearing walls, the center distance between fasteners is determined by static analysis.

13. General recommended principles for creating pitched roof structures

1. Before starting the installation of slabs on the roof structure, it is necessary to check the location of the rafters in the axes, whether they have a curvature and distinctive dimensions. Curved and other sized rafters adversely affect the properties and appearance of the roof.
2. The slabs are connected in such a way that the faces perpendicular to the longitudinal axis lie on supports (rafters, slats, etc.) along their entire length. Therefore, it is recommended to choose the location of the rafters in modules with a span of 833 mm or 625 mm.
3. In the case of a different or greater span (> 833 mm), in order to improve the surface of the roof structure, it is necessary to choose the option with a longitudinal lathing of battens or boards with a width of 80 - 100 mm. Using rails mounted with a pitch (in axes) of 417 or 625 mm, it is possible to achieve a reduction in the thickness of the slab (depending on the load).

Plates with flat edges

1. Between the plates there should be an expansion gap 3 mm wide.
2. To level the roof surface and accelerate the temperature equalization of the slabs, it is recommended to strengthen the longitudinal edges of the slabs with steel H-shaped brackets.

Plates with a tongue-and-groove face

To strengthen the roof structure and increase the diffusion resistance of the structural layer, glue the edges with glue (eg PUR, PVA).

1. Nails with a length of 2.5 times the thickness of the plate, i.e. 50 - 75 mm, if possible, with a spiral or grooves, galvanized or stainless steel, with a diameter of at least 3 mm.
2. Screws with a length of 2.5 times the thickness of the slab, but not less than 45 mm (recommended screws with a size of at least 4.2 x 45 mm).
3. Nails are hammered at a distance exceeding 7 times the diameter of the fixing material, but not less than 20 mm.

Environmental influences (temperature and humidity)

The boards are used in the roof structure as a material with diffusion resistance. In rooms with a normal air humidity of 50% (residential and office premises, etc.), they can be used in structures without a vapor barrier film, provided that the expansion gaps of the boards are sealed with an appropriate insulating tape or gluing tongue-and-groove joints.

Environmental Protection

1. Center distance between rafters; 600 mm. 800 mm. 1000 mm.
2. Min. recommended plate thickness; 12 mm. 15 mm. 18 mm.
3. Recommended distance between fasteners on the plane of the slab and the edge of the slab; 150 mm.
4. Roof slope 40° or more - 150
5. Roof pitch 30° - 40° - 200
6. Roof slope< 30°- 300
7. Nails [mm] 3.1 x 50

The dimensions are determined based on the adjusted value of the static load on the slabs. Boards that have been exposed to water (e.g. rain) must be dried before installation and roofing.

14. General principles of storage and warehousing

OSB boards (OSB, OSB)

For storage of plates it is most convenient to provide a closed storage room with good ventilation.

It is also possible to store the slabs under a canopy in such a way that they are not exposed to the risk of atmospheric precipitation.

If it is not possible to store under a canopy, it is necessary to prepare a flat horizontal surface and provide insulation from the ground with a layer of film, as well as wrap the pallet with film.

OSB boards (OSB, OSB) must be laid flat on a flat surface.

OSB boards (OSB, OSB) should not be in contact with the ground to avoid possible contact with water.

Wrong styling can lead to deformation and damage to OSB boards (OSB, OSB). When placing several packs one above the other, the wooden slats must be in the same vertical plane.

OSB protection (OSB, OSB)

The top of the packs must be covered with a protective panel to prevent mechanical damage. If the plates are outdoors, they must be protected with a moisture-proof coating.

During transportation, OSB boards must be protected from atmospheric precipitation.

Like other wood-based boards, OSB boards (OSB, OSB) are hygroscopic and their dimensions change in response to changes in humidity. Changing the amount of moisture in OSB boards (OSB, OSB) can lead to changes in the size of the boards, and this can cause problems during the operation of the boards. A 1% change in moisture content will generally increase or decrease the length, width and thickness of different grades of OSB (OSB, OSB).

Installation of OSB boards - proper sheathing and fastening to load-bearing structures

The main scope of OSB boards is the arrangement of the structural elements of the building: roof, floor, walls. At the same time, the installation of OSB slabs has some features, the knowledge of which will help to make the sheathing of high quality and durable. Before you start installation, you need to decide on the choice of hardware that will play leading role when fixing OSB.

Used nails and screws

There are many types of nails that are used depending on the location of the plate and its weight:

• finishing: used where camouflage is desirable and the likelihood of pulling out is minimized. Often used in conjunction with glue.
• round without a hat: needed when laying floors, during installation frame structures and when fixing plates with a tongue and groove connection
• with a hat: used where there is no need for disguise;

There are also special nails that have an annular or screw type thread. Such hardware holds the nailed plate better, but is difficult to pull out.

It is best to fasten the panels with screws designed for working with wood - the reliability of fastening increases dramatically. This allows the use of a much smaller number of screws when compared with the number of nails. If necessary, the screw can be easily unscrewed by switching the screwdriver to reverse.

Roof finish

Before starting the installation, it is necessary to make sure that the lathing or rafter legs are parallel. The surface must be leveled, and failure to comply with this requirement leads to the impossibility of a reliable tongue-and-groove connection.

If the slabs prepared for installation have been exposed to rain, they must be dried before laying.

Before installation, make sure that the attic space has adequate ventilation (total area ventilation holes must be at least 1/150 of the entire horizontal area).

The largest part of the operating load should lie on the long axis of the slab. The articulation of the short ends must be carried out on roof supports. The long sides are joined on auxiliary supports, the connection method is tongue-and-groove or H-brackets.

If the edges of the plates are even (i.e., there is no tongue and groove), then a dilatation gap of 3 millimeters should be left. This will enable the material to change dimensions with temperature changes without compromising the quality of the coating.

The slab must rest on at least 2 supports (on which the connection must fall). The dependence of the distance between the elements of the crate on the thickness of the OSB is shown below (for roofs with a slope of no more than 14 degrees):

• 1m: plate thickness from 18 mm;
• 0.8 meters: thickness from 15 mm;
• 0.6 meters: thickness from 12 mm.

When laying the slab next to the chimney, it is necessary to comply with the norms established by SNiP. Quality mount osb slabs to the rafters are possible using ring nails from 4.5 to 7.5 cm long, or spiral nails 5.1 cm long. The distance to the edge of the slab cannot be less than 10 mm.

Installation of OSB on walls

Installation can go in two ways: in a horizontal position or vertical.

When bypassing the window, doorways leave a gap of approximately 3 mm.

With a distance between the wall supports of 40-60 cm, it is recommended that the walls be sheathed with OSB slabs 1.2 cm thick. If thermal insulation is necessary, then it should be arranged before the plates are fixed. As a heat-insulating material, preference should be given to mineral wool.

To fix the plates, two-inch spiral nails (51 mm) or ring nails from 4.5 to 7.5 cm long are used. They must be driven every 30 cm into intermediate supports. At the joints of the plates, the nails are driven in every 15 cm. From the edge, the nails should be hammered in increments of 10 cm (no closer than 1 cm from the edge).

Dilatation gaps must also be left:

• between the top edge of the slab and the crown beam: 1 cm;
• between the lower edge of the slab and the foundation wall: 1cm;
• between plates that do not have a groove-ridge connection: 0.3 cm.

Floor laying

Before laying the material, it is necessary to make waterproofing (if the floor is done on the first floor).

Unite OSB boards follows on the lags. If there are no grooves and ridges, maintain the same gap of 3 millimeters. If a floating floor is planned, leave a gap of 1.2 cm between the wall and the edge of the slab.

OSB sheets should be laid perpendicular to the joists. The long edges of the plates must be connected to each other by means of a groove and a ridge, and in their absence, with H-shaped brackets. It is desirable that the connection rest on an auxiliary support. The short sides of the slab must be connected on the logs. The dependence of the thickness of the slab on the distance between the lags is shown below:

• from 1.5 to 1.8 cm: the distance between the lags is not more than 40 cm;
• from 1.8 to 2.2 cm: no more than 50 cm;
• from 2.2 cm: distance - 60 cm.

For fastening, the same types of nails are used, which require OSB wall cladding and roof arrangement. On intermediate supports, nails are driven in increments of 30 cm, at the junction of plates - in increments of 15 cm.

To increase the rigidity of the entire coating, giving it a holistic look, you can glue the plates to the logs. It will also be useful to glue the groove-comb connection.

It is necessary to use only synthetic glue (compositions on water based ineffective due to the presence of paraffin in the structure of the plate).

OSB finish

After fixing, you will need to finish the walls from OSB. The most common way is putty. This method allows you to seal all the gaps in the joints to prevent moisture from entering. Plus, a quality job will help prepare the slabs for possible further finishing (for example, varnishing or painting).

To obtain an aesthetically attractive look, it is better to use plates specially polished by the manufacturer. In this case, you will have to spend less time and material on future finishing.

Before carrying out work, you should walk on the plate with a finely notched sandpaper, and then cover the surface with a primer (it should not be water-based). Next, you need to choose how to putty OSB. It is better if the composition you choose is colorless. To do this, use one of the types of putty:

After completing this stage, you can think about how to finish the walls from OSB. For example, it could be varnishing. The plate should be varnished in 3-4 steps with complete drying of each layer. Lacquering will add shine to the surface and provide reliable protection from moisture penetration.

Another way of finishing is painting. Use paint that does not contain water. After priming and applying putty to the OSB board, it can even be laminated or finished with a special film.

Most of the ways to finish the house are available after the wall cladding of OSB boards has been made in compliance with the technologies and recommendations of the manufacturer.

Installation of OSB boards: wall cladding, fastening, surface finishing

Installation of OSB boards - proper sheathing and fastening to load-bearing structures The main scope of OSB boards is the arrangement of structural elements of a building: roofs, floors, walls. Wherein

Since the end of the nineties, as a rule, OSB boards with a thickness of 9-15 mm have been chosen as the cladding of the frame of a house from the outside. And if quite a lot has been written about the OSB panels themselves, then it’s quite difficult for a novice builder to find a description of the frame sheathing technology ....

And the lack of the necessary information, as a rule, leads to errors, such as sheathing the frame with OSB boards end-to-end, the wrong screw pitch is selected for attaching the boards to the frame of the house, etc.

When studying options for wall cladding with OSB slabs in Internet materials and in various forums, a lot of questions arise ...

Here are just a few of the most asked:

• Do I need or not need a gap between the plates?
• Why is there an additional insert from the OSB panel between the first and second floors on one option, and is it absent in the other option?
• How to arrange OSB boards when facing walls? Vertically or horizontally?
• What screw pitch to choose when attaching OSB panels to the frame posts?
• What is the required length of self-tapping screws or nails for attaching OSB sheets?

And so in order: Leave a deformation seam between the OSB panels when sheathing the walls, or fasten them end-to-end?

Let's think... OSB board, like wood, expands or contracts depending on air temperature and humidity. What happens if there is no expansion joint between the panels is easy to understand by looking at Figure 1. Expanding the plates, converge edges and warp, resulting in swollen edges of the panels after the first winter.

The expansion joint becomes especially relevant if the walls are planned to be sheathed not with OSB boards, but with plywood. The width of the expansion joint should be 3-5 mm. In practice, it is most convenient to form expansion joints using not spacers between the plates, but by screwing a screw of the required diameter into the rack

For fixing OSB sheets on the frame wall of the house, it is better to use phosphated (black) self-tapping screws 55-70 mm long, and when working with a pneumatic hammer, ( if you think about it, even for a small house or an outbuilding, the number of nails that need to be hammered goes into the thousands ... so, such a tool will be extremely useful, since budget models have now appeared on the market) special "ruff" nails with a notch 55-65 mm long are used.

The length of nails or screws is determined by the following factor:

For reliable fixation of sheathing sheets on the walls of the frame of the house, it is necessary that the nail enters at least 40-45 mm into the rack of the frame of the house wall. We add the thickness of the OSB sheets used for sheathing the frame, usually sheets with a thickness of 9-12-15 mm are used, and we get the required length of nails or self-tapping screws in the range of 55-65 mm.

Nails and self-tapping screws are hammered or screwed in at least 10 mm from the edge of the OSB sheet in order to prevent splitting of the sheet edge. The distance between the nails (pitch) along the edge of the sheet is 150 mm, in the center of the sheet 300 mm. (fig.2)

The main options for the location of the plates when sheathing the frame of the walls can be reduced to the three most used:

• vertically fig. 3a
• horizontal fig. 3b
• options with additional inserts fig. 3c

We'll look at these options in more detail next time...

Processing of woodworking industry waste is one of the promising economic areas that are actively developing at the present time. Products made from wood waste, including plywood, chipboard and fiberboard, glued beams, etc., are used in the furniture industry and construction. In addition, today OSB boards have become very popular, the technical characteristics of which make it possible to use this material in a variety of production areas.

Features of the structure, pros and cons

The abbreviation OSB or OSB (OSB) stands for Oriented Strand Board, which in English means oriented strand board. This new generation finishing material consists of 90% wood chips. They are pressed under the influence of pressure and high temperatures and are interconnected with the help of special fillers, which are waterproof resins of synthetic origin.

The OSB plate consists of several layers of chips, and in each of them it fits in a different direction.. This technology allows you to achieve a high level of strength and durability of products. With the right choice of thickness, the OSB plate can withstand a very significant load of several centners.

Material advantages:

• High strength.
• Light weight and resilience. Due to this quality, OSB boards are suitable for facing surfaces with a significant radius of curvature.
• Structural homogeneity. When bent, oriented strand boards do not delaminate and do not deform, unlike another popular sheathing material - plywood.
• High rates of sound and heat insulation.
• Ease of processing and installation.
• Chemical and mechanical resistance.
• bacteriological resistance.

Disadvantages of OSB boards:

• The presence of phenol in the composition of synthetic resins used in the composition of the material. However, OSB boards used for interior decoration undergo more stringent quality control, and, therefore, their main safety indicators for humans are fully in line with the norm. And recently, many manufacturers have completely eliminated the use of formaldehyde in their production.
• Some types of material have little moisture resistance.

Varieties of OSB boards and their differences

Modern industry produces four types of oriented strand board (OSB), which have slight differences in the main physical and technical characteristics. These include:

Name	Characteristics	Scope of application
OSB 1	Low density, low strength and moisture resistance	Furniture manufacturing, interior decoration
OSB 2	Good strength with low moisture resistance	Production of internal partitions, ceilings
OSB 3	High level of strength and moisture resistance	Internal and external work (in the latter case, the material needs to be treated with special impregnation or staining)
OSB 4	Very high strength properties, very high moisture resistance	Device load-bearing elements walls and roofs of buildings

Dimensions and thickness

When assessing quality, it is oriented particle boards different indicators are used. One of the most important is their thickness, which can range from 8 to 26 mm (in 1-2 mm increments). It has a direct impact on the use of this material. For example, when finishing various structures in which a high load on the slab is not expected, rather thin sheets, up to 16 mm thick, can be used. These are the walls, the foundations for soft roof etc. As the load increases, thicker plates are used.

The standard dimensions of the OSB (OSB) plate are: 2500 x 1250 mm. In addition, on sale you can find plates of the following parameters:

Indicators	Tongue slabs				Plates with smooth edges
Dimensions (length x width), mm	2440 x 1220, 2500 x 1250, 2440 x 590, 2500 x 625				2440 x 1220, 2500 x 1250, 2800 x 1250
Thickness, mm	15	16	18	22	9	10	11	12	15	16	18	22
Number of sheets per pack	55	50	45	35	100	80	75	70	55	50	45	35

Now many equip their balcony under workplace. And what is required in order to make a personal one, you can find out from our separate article.

Specifications

OSB application plates directly depends on their main technical characteristics, such as:

• Flexural and tear strength.
• The degree of swelling in a humid environment (moisture resistance).
• Appearance.
• Processing ability.

Physical and technical indicators of this material can be presented in the form of a table:

	Flexural strength modulus, longitudinal axis, N/mm2	Bending modulus, transverse axis, N/mm2	Degree of swelling,%
OSB 1	2500	1200	25
OSB 2	3500	1400	20
OSB 3	3500	1400	15
OSB 4	4800	1800	12

Comparative technical characteristics of the OSB board (OSB) of popular types:

Indicators	Standard	Aggloply OSB 2	Aggloply OSB 3	OSB 2				OSB 3
Thickness, mm		10-18	10-18	6-10	10-18	18-25		6-10
Thickness tolerances, mm: slab unpolished polished plate	EN 324-1	0,3 0,3	0,3 0,3	within 0.8 within 0.8				within 0.8 within 0.8
Length tolerances, mm	EN 324-1	3	3	3				3
Width tolerances, mm	EN 324-1	3	3	3				3
Straightness, mm	EN 324-1	2	2	2				2
Right angle, mm	EN 324-2	1,5	1,5	1,5				1,5
Bending strength, N/mm²: longitudinal axis transverse axis	EN 310	>35 >17	>35 >17	22 11	20 10		18 9	22 11
Cross tension, N/mm²	EN 310	>0,75	>0,75	0,34	0,32		0,3	0,34
Formaldehydes, mg/100g	EN 120
Swelling in 24 hours when completely immersed in water,%	EN 317	12	6	20				15

Features of use

Due to their practicality and excellent physical and technical parameters, oriented strand boards are used in various industries production, including construction, furniture manufacturing, etc. At the same time, to the question: “OSB stove, what is it?” you can answer that it is easy to use, versatile material that can be used as an independent coating, and as auxiliary element for preparation of bases of various types of coatings for finishing.

It is well suited for interior cladding various premises including balconies and loggias. In this case, the technical characteristics of the OSB 3 board the best way allow you to function as a base for laying floor coverings various types, including tiles, laminate, linoleum and parquet board. At the same time, the sheets are laid on wooden bars, after which the working surface is finally leveled with a concrete screed (rarely used), or the topcoat is immediately mounted on the sheets.

To provide better strength and stability of the base under the flooring of OSB boards, you can use two layers of sheets, laying them with an offset, fixing them together with an adhesive composition and nails of a spiral and ring type. During installation, it is imperative to leave small gaps between the plates in order to prevent their deformation during natural expansion during use.

The use of OSB boards on the balcony with various types of finishes has its own characteristics. For example:

• When installing oriented particle boards under a laminate, it is necessary to monitor the evenness of the surface at the joints of its sheets.
• When laying under linoleum or carpet at the joints of the material, to ensure maximum evenness, sheets of minimum thickness should be used, gaps should be treated with sealants.
• When used as a stand-alone floor covering. Need additional protection material from abrasion and wear. To do this, after preliminary stripping, it is covered with several layers of varnish.
• Under ceramic tiles. The base of the OSB boards must be completely fixed. Therefore, sheets should be fixed especially carefully, and set lags under them with a smaller step.

When constructing a subfloor from OSB boards, the sheets are initially installed on the underside of the log. Wherein:

• The side of the slab facing the ground is treated with bituminous mastic.
• Insulation is laid in the space between the lags, which must be covered with a layer of waterproofing material (for example, glassine).
• Another OSB board is attached to the top.

Which ones are used, as well as their features, read the review article on our website.

An example of mounting an OSB board on logs is shown in the video.

OSB board photo

And here are some photos on the topic of our article.

What is OSB, their advantages and disadvantages, types of oriented strand boards and the rules for their selection, technology for mounting panels on logs and a concrete base, features of decorative finishes.

Pros and cons of OSB flooring

Every year the demand for OSB boards is growing, which is not surprising, because the material has the following advantages:

• High level of panel strength. It is achieved due to the fact that in different layers of the board the chips are perpendicular. With the right choice of tile thickness, the structure will be able to withstand large power loads.
• Lightweight panels. The standard weight of a whole board is no more than 20 kilograms. Such material can be lifted independently, you do not have to hire a special team.
• The structure is resilient and flexible, which allows you to bend the boards without fear that they will break. This is very handy if you want to make OSB floors with rounded or other shapes, as well as when working with uneven surfaces.
• The panels have a high degree of moisture resistance. This effect is achieved through the treatment of boards with resins. When compared with other wooden building materials, this board will be less deformed when in contact with water or moisture.
• OSB is convenient and easy to work with. Panels can be installed using simple construction tools - saws, drills and screwdrivers. The cuts are even, no additional processing is required for them. On the OSB, various fasteners are well fixed - nails and self-tapping screws. Installation of plates will not take much time.
• The material has high performance in thermal insulation. Since OSB boards contain more than 90% natural wood chips, they perform the function of floor insulation. Therefore, such a floor covering will not allow heat to quickly evaporate and will maintain a stable temperature in the room.
• OSB provide a good level of sound insulation. The panels are multi-layered, thanks to which they absorb any noise well.
• Resistant to chemicals due to resin treatment.
• Particle boards are environmentally friendly. They are impregnated with special solutions that will not allow fungus or mold to form on the boards.
• OSB panels are budget and affordable.
• OSB flooring perfectly levels the surface. The slabs can be installed on a wooden or concrete floor, thus creating an even surface, on which the main finishing material can already be laid on top.
• They have a stylish color "under the tree", so that they do not require additional design processing.

There are not many shortcomings in the material. Of these, the following can be noted: when cutting boards, it is necessary to work in a mask or respirator, since wood chips and dust are harmful to the respiratory organs. Moreover, some types of low-quality panels can release dangerous carcinogens when working with them.

In addition, an OSB subfloor may contain a synthetic substance such as phenol. But in the last few years, manufacturers have been actively solving this problem and are switching to the production of formaldehyde-free panels. similar material considered absolutely safe for human health. On its packaging you will find the label "Eco" or "Green".

The main types of OSB for the floor

OSB is a panel consisting of three layers of wood chips, which are pressed and glued together with a waterproof resin during production. The direction of the chips inside the boards alternate: first along, then perpendicularly. Thanks to this arrangement, the plates are strong and hold the elements of the fastening system well.

AT construction work Several types of OSB are used:

1. OSB-2. Such plates have a low level of water resistance, so they are used only for interior decoration of dry rooms.
2. OSB-3. These are universal boards. They are resistant to high humidity both indoors and outdoors. The material is very dense, therefore it is used in construction work of any complexity.
3. OSB-4 panels. The most durable and moisture resistant type of plates. Often they are used to create structures in rooms with high level humidity.

Features of the choice of OSB boards for the floor

The most versatile material for flooring in a residential area is OSB-3. It is recommended to choose products manufactured by Western European manufacturers. These panels fit European standards quality and have a high density.

The thickness of the OSB floor slab can be different, but in order for the panels to retain heat well, perform soundproofing functions, and also level the surface, it is recommended to choose products with a thickness of eight to ten millimeters. When mounting boards on logs, the recommended thickness of the panels is 16-19 mm. OSP-3 boards withstand various power loads and people's movements well.

To well level small defects in the flooring, it is enough to use a material ten millimeters thick. If the floor is with strong bumps and cracks, then 15-25 mm slabs will be required.

OSB is often used on the floor under linoleum, parquet, tile or laminate. This material is of high quality and solid foundation for decorative covering.

Technology for mounting OSB boards on logs

The choice of material and floor design depends on the purpose of the room, its characteristics. As a rule, two main types of laying OSB boards are used - on logs and directly on a concrete screed.

Advantages and disadvantages of fastening OSB panels to logs

This version of the installation of the subfloor is quite simple, it can be done in a few days on your own. OSB panels are dense, resistant to crumbling, moisture resistant, not afraid of contact with biological and chemical substances and, most importantly, perfectly attached to the bars.

OSB joist floors are a great alternative to concrete screed. Such installation allows you to save money on building materials. In addition, the surface can be easily insulated, and the wiring of communications will not cause problems - they can simply be placed in the cracks between the wooden blocks.

The advantages of laying OSB on logs include the fact that with their help the bases are perfectly leveled even with the sharpest drops themselves. It turns out smooth surface, and floor construction while not weighted down. If some panels become unusable, they can be easily replaced.

Of the disadvantages of this installation method, it can only be noted that the whole structure turns out to be quite high, about 90-95 mm, and this will make the room lower.

Preparatory work before laying OSB on logs

The beginning of installation work is the preparation of the foundation. First of all, we inspect the floor for damage, cracks, chips, depressions, mold and mildew. If large defects are found, then they should be removed before laying the logs. Minor flaws can be left, since the height of the lags will hide them anyway.

Mold and fungus must be removed without fail. If this is not done, microorganisms will attack the logs, and eventually the OSB boards. This will lead to premature damage to the flooring. All debris from the floor surface should be removed.

Logs can be installed on the floor with a slope, but the maximum slope level should be 0.2%. To determine the angle, you must use a water level or a long building one. If too large slopes are found, they should be leveled with a self-levelling compound.

The procedure for installing lags on the floor

The dimensions of the bars for lags are always calculated according to individual measurements. In this case, the products must be of the same dimensions.

After they are prepared, proceed to the installation according to the following scheme:

• We install wooden beams around the entire perimeter of the room, fix them at the same distance from each other - 40 centimeters.
• The distance between the wall and the material should be no more than twenty centimeters.
• We fasten the logs to the base of the floor with bolts or self-tapping screws.
• The upper surfaces of the lags must be in a strictly horizontal plane. Their evenness should be checked periodically. building level.
• If the room is damp enough, then the bars must be processed protective equipment from mold and mildew.
• If necessary, we put insulation in the gaps.

How to fix OSB on logs

For laying OSB panels on the floor, you will need construction tools such as a tape measure, a hammer, a water level, a jigsaw and a puncher. Also, for the installation process, prepare special fastening systems for woodworking and a nail puller.

Laying on the floor should be oriented strand boards with simple edges. Well, if they have grooves that will help fasten the panels together. To correctly calculate the required number of sheets, consider the fact that seven percent of the material will be lost during cutting.

Do-it-yourself OSB floors are easy to install according to the following instructions:

1. The plates are laid across the lags.
2. The seams between the panels should be minimal and go clearly in the center of the log. Between the OSB, you need to leave a distance of about two millimeters so that the floor does not deform over time and does not begin to creak.
3. Between the OSB plate and the wall we leave a larger gap - 12 millimeters.
4. We fix the panels to the beams by means of self-tapping screws or nails (ring, spiral).
5. The step of the fasteners along the sheet should be about 15 millimeters. On additional supports - 30 millimeters.
6. Fasteners that hold the plate around the perimeter are located at a distance of about 1 centimeter from the edge. This is necessary so that it does not crack.
7. The length of self-tapping screws or nails should be 2.5 times greater than the thickness of the plate.
8. The gaps formed between the walls and the rough floor covering must be filled with construction foam or mineral wool.

Thus, with the help of OSB boards laid on logs, it is possible to prepare a rough base for further laying parquet, tiles or carpet on it.

Laying OSB panels on a concrete screed

The procedure for installing OSB boards on a concrete floor is preceded by a preparatory stage. From the base it is necessary to remove debris and dust. In order for the adhesive to adhere well, the surface must be clean. The base is covered with a primer. It will help the glue to better adhere to the panels, and will also prevent the screed from “dusting” during operation.

• The panels are laid out on the floor surface. If necessary, cut the OSB with a jigsaw or saw.
• Next on inside we apply glue to the plates. To spread the product evenly over the surface, use a notched trowel.
• We glue the chipboards on the concrete base. Additionally, they can be fixed with the help of driven dowels, which should be placed every half a meter.
• Between each plate we leave an expansion joint, two millimeters thick.
• Between the walls in the room and wooden boards, the gap is no more than 13 mm. These seams are necessary so that during the operation of the coating no swelling occurs due to temperature and humidity changes.
• The last step in installing OSB boards on the floor is cleaning the panels from debris. We also carry out sealing of all formed seams with the help of mounting foam. It dries in three to four hours. Remove excess foam from the coating with a sharp knife.

Decorative flooring made of OSB boards

After the installation of OSB boards on the floor is completely completed, you can start finishing the flooring. If you plan to leave such a floor as the main one, then as an option, the surface can be completely varnished or painted, and skirting boards can be installed around the perimeter.

No additional preparation of OSB for painting is required. It is only necessary to clean the floor of dust and cover it with a couple of layers of varnish or paint. This can be done with a roller or a sprayer. Hard-to-reach places should be painted over with a brush.

There are panels that are more expensive, but they are already available with a glossy finish. Finishing such a coating will be very simple: just ennoble the perimeter of the room with a plinth - and that's it, the floor is ready for use.

If you are laying on top of the slabs roll materials, for example, carpet or linoleum, then make sure that all joints between OSB panels are flush with the entire surface and do not stick out anywhere. Any small irregularities can be removed with sanding paper. Compensation gaps must be filled with elastic sealant.

For laying over OSB laminate, it is not necessary to prepare the panels. Small unevenness at the joints will be leveled by the substrate.

How to lay OSB on the floor - look at the video:

Installation of OSB boards is a way to inexpensively and efficiently level a concrete base. And if there is a need, then create a floor from scratch, fixing the panels on the logs. Such a coating does not need expensive finishing or impregnation with moisture-resistant solutions, and you can even lay it yourself.

Have you ever wondered why the problem with housing has been solved in America for a long time? It's simple, they massively build prefabricated frame or panel houses, such buildings are cheap, and the time from “beginning to housewarming” is only two weeks. In a similar way, the problem with housing in cities was solved in our country, when panel houses were built in the 60s. But in those days, the state was not engaged in construction in the villages, no one used accelerated technologies for low-rise buildings. Now everyone takes care of their housing on their own, in connection with this, frame and panel houses have become so widespread.

All performance specifications frame houses fully meet the most modern requirements. Except one. On TV, we are often shown the consequences of a tornado in the same America, a lot of wooden structures are scattered around, entire cities are wiped off the face of the earth. And all because most of their houses are frame-type, such houses cannot withstand hurricane gusts of wind. But do not worry, we do not have and will not have a tornado, this drawback can be ignored.

Ways of sheathing frame houses

What is a frame house? A frame is assembled from wooden beams, either edged timber from pine and spruce is used, insulation is made, the internal and external surfaces of the walls are sheathed with various materials. For these purposes, drywall, plywood, boards, plastic panels and OSB boards can be used. Here we will stop on the last material (OSB boards). Let's talk about the technology, you will get some practical tips on how to perform such work quickly and with minimal cost financial resources.

Choice of slabs

We recommend working with 12mm thick boards, but you can use thicker or thinner boards. Although we advise you to take our advice: thinner ones are a concern for strength, thicker ones will cost you dearly.

The slabs must be dry, for long-term storage it is necessary to use a canopy. Work should only be carried out in dry weather. The number of plates is determined based on the total area of ​​​​the walls of the building; it is not very difficult to make calculations. However, it must be borne in mind that the amount of unproductive waste will always be at least 10%. The more complex the architectural characteristics of the house, the more waste there will be, keep this in mind when purchasing the material.

General sheathing rules

There are many various options finishing of frame houses, both internal premises and facade walls. We will consider only one of these options - sheathing of external facade walls with OSB boards. How you will sheathe the interior - does not make much difference.

Can be mounted in a vertical or horizontal position, leave a gap of 2÷3 mm between the plates. To facilitate the process of setting the gap, you can use a simple device. Find any plastic strip with a similar thickness and use it as a template, after fixing the slab, the strip is removed and used during the fixing of the next slab.

The distance between the stops of the slab should be 40 ÷ 60 cm. This must be borne in mind during the construction of the frame, it is better to use mineral or glass wool as insulation. Fasten the plates with spiral or ordinary nails, self-tapping screws and other hardware. The length is selected taking into account the thickness of the slab, while it should be borne in mind that the nail must enter the body of the timber to a depth of at least 40 mm. It is desirable that the caps of the fasteners have an increased diameter.

Nails should be driven ≈ 30 cm apart, at the joints of the sheets, nails are driven in at a distance of ≈ 15 centimeters. The distance from the edge of the board to the nail must be ≥ 1 cm.

Frame house cladding technology

Initial data - the foundation has already been completed, the lower strapping row has been laid, vertical racks have been mounted at the corners and perimeter of the frame house.

• We recommend starting the installation of the first OSB sheet from the corner of the house. In terms of level, fix it to the corner posts of the house, immediately fix the second sheet to the other side of the corner. During work, carefully check their position with a level. If you make a mistake on the first sheet of a few millimeters, then at the opposite corner your millimeters will turn into centimeters. Correcting such a mistake is very difficult. To fully guarantee the accuracy of the upholstery with sheets of walls, we advise you, as in many cases during construction work, to use strong ropes stretched along the walls. They will help you accurately maintain the parallelism of the sheet installation lines.

• Mount in a circle, leaving space for window and door openings. Do not forget that the sheet must be reinforced around the entire perimeter of the openings; in some cases, additional beams or special load-bearing racks will have to be installed for this purpose.
• Upholstery of the house with slabs from the corner greatly simplifies and speeds up the construction process - there is no need to install longitudinal braces. In the future, these cuttings still have to be removed - an extra waste of time and material. But you can’t do without temporary transverse braces, otherwise the frame will be too unstable.
• To facilitate the process of attaching the OSB () to the bottom harness, we advise you to fix a small bar at the place where two large OSB sheets fit, after which you can fasten the sheet to the vertical posts with screws or nails. If you have problems with horizontality, on some sheets you can “sacrifice” the gap, make it a little larger or completely eliminate it. If this defect is on 3-4 sheets, then you can not be afraid of any deformation due to linear expansion of OSB sheets.
• Work in a circle from bottom to top.

• Install interior load-bearing wall studs only when at least three house frame walls are assembled and sheathed.

Finishing sheets can be done in any way. But we would advise you to additionally protect them with plastic panels or siding - this will significantly increase the life of the entire building.

Today frame houses are very popular. This is due to the fact that they are built quite easily and for a short time. The result is a full-fledged building, which has a certain strength and good heat and sound insulation properties. During the construction of a frame house, special attention is paid to its sheathing. In this article, we will look at how to properly sheathe a frame house with OSB panels from the outside in stages.

Advantages of OSB panels

OSB panels are a popular building material used in the construction of frame houses. They are used for interior and exterior wall and roof cladding. Plates have certain advantages, which include:

• material strength. Plates are produced with different strength indicators, which significantly affects their cost;
• moisture resistance, which makes it possible to use the material for sheathing a frame house outside in regions with moderate humidity;
• the versatility of the plates is explained by the fact that they are used both for external cladding and for interior decoration;
• the strength and reliability of the plates allows you to apply the finishing of the facade on top of them;
• environmental friendliness.

With these advantages, OSB boards have become the most common material used for sheathing frame houses.

Skin features

So, as it has already been determined, OSB boards are most often used for sheathing houses built according to frame technology. To carry out high-quality and durable finishing of the house outside, it is necessary to approach the choice and installation of plates correctly. When buying plates, you need to pay attention to their appearance. If possible, you can get acquainted with the quality certificates that the responsible manufacturers and sellers have.

As for the installation of plates, here it is worth paying attention to such nuances:

• work should be carried out in dry weather, which will prevent the finishing material and insulation from getting wet;
• during installation work, special attention is paid to the location of the fasteners. They should be located at a distance of 1 cm from the edge. This will prevent the material from splitting when it is installed;
• if we are talking about the sheathing of a two-story building, then the slabs are positioned so that the ceiling is in its middle;

OSB or OSB (Oriented Strand Board) is relatively new construction material, which has become a successful alternative to plywood and chipboard. The role of OSB in frame construction is great, with the insulation of standard houses. Especially often, with the help of OSB, floor surfaces are formed and leveled. Today we will talk about how to do this correctly.

Types of OSB boards and their characteristics

OSB - boards consisting of several layers of wood chips pressed and glued with waterproof resins. Its gluing is carried out in 3 layers. In the outer layers, the chips are laid along the length of the panel, and inside - perpendicularly. This arrangement gives the OSB strength, allows you to firmly hold the fasteners.

The following types of OSB are used in construction:

• OSB-2 - panels with low moisture resistance. They are used only for interior work in dry rooms.
• OSB-3 is a versatile material. Withstands high humidity both indoors and outdoors. A large margin of safety allows it to be widely used in construction.
• OSB-4 - the most durable and moisture resistant plates. They are used to form load-bearing structures in conditions of high humidity.

For the construction and leveling of floors, OSB-3 sheets are usually used, which perfectly withstand the load from furniture, equipment, and the movement of people.

When leveling small floor defects, it is enough to use OSB boards with a thickness of 10 mm. Surfaces with significant bumps and potholes will require a material of 10-15 mm. If it is necessary to create a floor on logs, then the thickness of the OSB boards used should be at least 15-25 mm.

Wood-based boards such as plywood and OSB are widely used for subflooring under the finish coat. Let's compare these two materials in the following article: .

OSB boards are used as an even and solid base for various modern coatings - parquet, tile, linoleum, laminate, carpet. The main functions of oriented strand board are:

• Creating a floor surface. OSB is a popular material for creating a subfloor on logs. In this case, the flooring of the slabs can be carried out both on the upper side of the log and on the lower side.
• Surface leveling. Installing OSB on a wooden or concrete floor will help create a completely flat surface suitable for laying a finishing coat.
• Floor insulation. OSB is 90% natural wood chips with high thermal insulation properties. Accordingly, the OSB floor does not allow heat to escape and keeps it indoors.
• Noise isolation. The multi-layer dense structure of the OSB reliably absorbs any kind of noise.

Consider several popular technologies for laying OSB on different bases.

Installation of OSB boards on a concrete floor (cement screed)

Let's start with the simplest situation - leveling the concrete base with OSB slabs. Work is carried out according to this scheme.

Debris is swept from the concrete base, dust is removed with a vacuum cleaner. The surface must be absolutely clean to ensure adhesion of the mounting adhesive. The base is covered with a primer. This also contributes to better adhesion of the adhesive to the base. In addition, the primer creates a dense film on the surface, which does not allow the screed to “dust” during operation.

OSB is laid out on the surface, if necessary, trimming is performed with an electric jigsaw or a circular saw. On the wrong side of the OSB, a rubber-based parquet adhesive is applied, using a notched trowel for uniform application. Glue the sheets to the concrete base.

Additionally, OSB is fixed with driven dowels. For guaranteed retention, the dowels are hammered around the perimeter every 20-30 cm. If the floor is even, the installation is carried out in a dry living room, then it is enough to fix the dowels at the corners of each slab (subject to the mandatory use of high-quality glue!).

When laying between the plates, expansion joints with a thickness of 3 mm are left. Along the perimeter of the room, between the OSB and the wall, the seam should be 12 mm. These gaps are necessary to compensate for temperature and humidity expansions (bulges) of the OSB during operation.

At the last stage of work, the OSB base is cleaned of dust and debris. The seams between the wall and the slabs are filled with mounting foam. Its drying time is 3-4 hours. Excess dry foam that protrudes beyond the surface is cut off with a sharp knife.

Installation of OSB boards on boardwalk

Laying OSB on an old wooden floor helps to level the surface and prepare it for the installation of the finish coat. Installation is carried out in this way:

1. To begin with, with the help of a level or a rule, the localization of irregularities (bulges, depressions) of the boardwalk is determined.
2. Boards that “walk” or rise too high above the general level are attracted to the joists with dowels, sinking them into the material. In some cases, to eliminate the creaking and unsteadiness of the boards, the floor has to be sorted out with the replacement (repair) of the lag.
3. They clean the influxes of paint from the flooring, bloating and protrusions are washed with a grinder or emery cloth.
4. OSB boards are laid out on the floor, with the seams of each next row shifted. Cross-shaped joints should not be! Dilatation gaps are provided (between the plates - 3 mm, along the perimeter of the walls - 12 mm).
5. Holes are drilled in the plates. Their diameter should match the diameter of the wood screws that were selected to fix the OSB to the floor. Holes are drilled along the perimeter of the plates every 20-30 cm, countersinking is performed under the caps of the self-tapping screws.
6. Self-tapping wood screws attract the OSB to the floor. The recommended length of self-tapping screws is at least 45 mm.
7. If you want to make the floor more durable, mount the second layer of OSB. The seams of the overlying and underlying layers should be laid with an offset of 20-30 cm.
8. Deformation gaps near the walls are filled with mounting foam, which is cut off after drying.

This completes the process.

Laying OSB on logs on a concrete base

In the presence of a concrete base (for example, floor slabs), the installation of a log and sheathing them with OSB sheets allows you to create a flat floor without the use of wet leveling screeds. And also to fit insulating, moisture and noise insulating materials into the structure.

Consider the technology of creating an OSB floor on logs on an existing concrete base. Logs (wooden bars) are fixed to the concrete floor with dowels or anchors.

The wider the distance between the lags, the thicker the OSB boards used. If the pitch is 40 mm, then the minimum OSB thickness is 15-18 mm, if the pitch is 50 cm - the thickness is 18-22 mm, if 60 cm - 22 mm or more.

Thanks to the lags, space is created between the OSB and the concrete floor. It can be put to good use by laying insulating material. For example, the floors of the first floors are often cold, so a heat insulator can be laid between the joists: mineral wool, polystyrene foam, XPS, etc. If there is a wet basement under the ceiling, the floor structure is supplemented vapor barrier films or membranes.

OSB boards are laid across the log. The seams between adjacent plates (in width) should go strictly in the middle of the log. During installation, it is recommended to leave expansion gaps (3 mm - between the plates, 12 mm - between the OSB and the wall)

The sheets are fixed to the lags with self-tapping screws or nails (spiral, ring). Step of fasteners: along the perimeter of the sheets - 15 mm, on intermediate (additional) supports - 30 mm. Nails (or self-tapping screws) fixing the plates along the perimeter are placed at a distance of at least 1 cm from the edge (so that the OSB does not crack). Fasteners are selected so that their length is 2.5 times greater than the thickness of the plates used.

How to fasten OSB boards on logs in an ordinary city apartment, see the video:

Creating a subfloor from OSB on logs

Laying OSB on wooden joists is the easiest way to get a durable and reliable subfloor. This technology is especially appropriate with the existing columnar, pile, pile screw foundation. Work order:

1. Logs are mounted on the foundation. The step of the lag should correspond to the thickness of the OSB boards used (the larger the step, the greater the thickness).
2. Perform a rough floor roll. To do this, retaining bars are nailed along the lag, OSB boards are laid and fixed on them. The surface facing the ground is covered with waterproofing preparations, for example, bituminous mastic.
3. A layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of the OSB.
4. Stacked thermal insulation material, for example, foam plastic, mineral wool boards, ecowool, etc.
5. Close the insulation with another layer of OSB. Fastening is carried out in the same way as when laying OSB on logs on an existing concrete base (the technology is described in the previous paragraph).

At this point, the work process is considered completed.

OSB processing for different finishes

A strong, hard and even surface makes OSB a universal base for all modern views finishing floor coverings. How to cover the floor from OSB? Here are some popular solutions:

• Lacquer or paint. In this case, OSB boards will act as finishing floors, which will only need decorative trim paintwork materials. OSB sheets do not require any additional preparation, it is enough to clean them of dust and apply 2-3 layers of varnish (paint).
• Roll materials - linoleum and carpet. When laying rolled materials, it is necessary to ensure that the joints between OSB boards are flush with the rest of the surface. It is desirable to remove all irregularities with sanding paper. Expansion gaps - fill with elastic sealant.
• Tile(ceramic, vinyl, quartz vinyl, rubber, etc.). In order for the tile to be held on the base of the OSB, it is necessary to ensure its immobility. For this, lags are placed more often than required by the thickness of the sheets. The step between the fastening elements is also reduced. The tiles are glued onto the OSB using a special adhesive suitable for the wood surface and the tile used.
• Laminate- topcoat, which is fixed in a "floating" way, without rigid fastening of the lamellas. This coating is quite rigid, so it is not necessary to prepare OSB for it. Minor irregularities that may be at the joints of the plates are leveled by the substrate.

What exactly to choose - it's up to you.

Using OSB makes it possible to inexpensively and quickly level an existing wood or concrete floor. And if necessary, create it from scratch on the logs. The OSB surface will not require expensive finishing, additional leveling, coating with moisture-resistant compounds. This is - great choice for those who want to create a quality floor with minimal effort.

Have you ever wondered why the problem with housing has been solved in America for a long time? It's simple, they massively build prefabricated frame or panel houses, such buildings are cheap, and the time from “beginning to housewarming” is only two weeks. In a similar way, the problem with housing in cities was solved in our country, when panel houses were built in the 60s. But in those days, the state was not engaged in construction in the villages, no one used accelerated technologies for low-rise buildings. Now everyone takes care of their housing on their own, in connection with this, frame and panel houses have become so widespread.

For all operational characteristics, frame houses fully meet the most modern requirements. Except one. On TV, we are often shown the consequences of a tornado in the same America, a lot of wooden structures are scattered around, entire cities are wiped off the face of the earth. And all because most of their houses are frame-type, such houses cannot withstand hurricane gusts of wind. But do not worry, we do not have and will not have a tornado, this drawback can be ignored.

Ways of sheathing frame houses

What is a frame house? A frame is assembled from wooden beams, either edged timber from pine and spruce is used, insulation is made, the internal and external surfaces of the walls are sheathed with various materials. For these purposes, drywall, plywood, boards, plastic panels and OSB boards can be used. Here we will stop on the last material (OSB boards). Let's talk about technology, you will get some practical advice on how to perform such work quickly and with minimal financial costs.

Choice of slabs

We recommend working with 12mm thick boards, but you can use thicker or thinner boards. Although we advise you to take our advice: thinner ones are a concern for strength, thicker ones will cost you dearly.

The slabs must be dry, for long-term storage it is necessary to use a canopy. Work should only be carried out in dry weather. The number of plates is determined based on the total area of ​​​​the walls of the building; it is not very difficult to make calculations. However, it must be borne in mind that the amount of unproductive waste will always be at least 10%. The more complex the architectural characteristics of the house, the more waste there will be, keep this in mind when purchasing the material.

General sheathing rules

There are many different options for finishing frame houses, both interior and facade walls. We will consider only one of these options - sheathing of external facade walls with OSB boards. How you will sheathe the interior - does not make much difference.

Can be mounted in a vertical or horizontal position, leave a gap of 2÷3 mm between the plates. To facilitate the process of setting the gap, you can use a simple device. Find any plastic strip with a similar thickness and use it as a template, after fixing the slab, the strip is removed and used during the fixing of the next slab.

The distance between the stops of the slab should be 40 ÷ 60 cm. This must be borne in mind during the construction of the frame, it is better to use mineral or glass wool as insulation. Fasten the plates with spiral or ordinary nails, self-tapping screws and other hardware. The length is selected taking into account the thickness of the slab, while it should be borne in mind that the nail must enter the body of the timber to a depth of at least 40 mm. It is desirable that the caps of the fasteners have an increased diameter.

Nails should be driven ≈ 30 cm apart, at the joints of the sheets, nails are driven in at a distance of ≈ 15 centimeters. The distance from the edge of the board to the nail must be ≥ 1 cm.

Frame house cladding technology

Initial data - the foundation has already been completed, the lower strapping row has been laid, vertical racks have been mounted at the corners and perimeter of the frame house.

• We recommend starting the installation of the first OSB sheet from the corner of the house. In terms of level, fix it to the corner posts of the house, immediately fix the second sheet to the other side of the corner. During work, carefully check their position with a level. If you make a mistake on the first sheet of a few millimeters, then at the opposite corner your millimeters will turn into centimeters. Correcting such a mistake is very difficult. To fully guarantee the accuracy of the upholstery with sheets of walls, we advise you, as in many cases during construction work, to use strong ropes stretched along the walls. They will help you accurately maintain the parallelism of the sheet installation lines.

• Mount in a circle, leaving space for window and door openings. Do not forget that the sheet must be reinforced around the entire perimeter of the openings; in some cases, additional beams or special load-bearing racks will have to be installed for this purpose.
• Upholstery of the house with slabs from the corner greatly simplifies and speeds up the construction process - there is no need to install longitudinal braces. In the future, these cuttings still have to be removed - an extra waste of time and material. But you can’t do without temporary transverse braces, otherwise the frame will be too unstable.
• To facilitate the process of attaching the OSB () to the bottom harness, we advise you to fix a small bar at the place where two large sheets of OSB fit, after which you can fasten the sheet with screws or nails to vertical racks. If you have problems with horizontality, on some sheets you can “sacrifice” the gap, make it a little larger or completely eliminate it. If this defect is on 3-4 sheets, then you can not be afraid of any deformation due to linear expansion of OSB sheets.
• Work in a circle from bottom to top.

• Install interior load-bearing wall studs only when at least three house frame walls are assembled and sheathed.

Finishing sheets can be done in any way. But we would advise you to additionally protect them with plastic panels or siding - this will significantly increase the life of the entire building.

OSB sheets in a frame house allow you to decorate the outer walls of the house. Outside, OSB sheets are finished with either a ventilated facade, such as siding or plaster.

What thickness sheets to use for outdoor work

OSB sheets have an outer and an inner side. The outer side consists of coarser fibers - it should be screwed in outward.

What membrane is used to cut off moisture

Use a quality waterproof membrane. Better, one that is used under the roof

Groove for thermal expansion of sheets

Leave 3-5mm between sheets as space for expansion

How far to fasten the screws

How to cut the crate profile

Scissors for metal

MASTERMAX 3-ECO membranes

material three-layer waterproofing super-diffusion membrane (PP fleece) MASTERMAX 3 ECO - Masterplast application vapour-permeable underlay roofing film, secondary protection against moisture and snow, placed directly on thermal insulation density, g/m2 115 g/m2 (±20 g) vapor permeability (Sd), m 0.05 max. pace. use, °C +70

What is expensive waterproofing material used for?

Over time, every material ages. This also applies to waterproofing membranes. To leave the water resistance of the walls of the house from LSTC at the proper level, you should use a high-quality moisture-proof membrane.

Required Tool

• Screwdrivers
• Self-tapping screws with pressure washer
• Steam waterproofing
• waterproofing membrane
• self-tapping screws for metal

What it is

OSB (Orient Strand Board or OSB) is an oriented strand board (OSB) in which each next layer of chips is laid across the previous layer. After that, the layers are glued together with waterproof resins and placed under a press at high temperature. Types of OSB

OSB boards (OSB) were created for use in the construction of low-rise wooden houses in the relatively warm and dry climates of the United States and Canada. This probably explains the fact that in the humid climate of Russia, moisture-resistant sheets of the OSB-3 class are widely used. OSB classification is based on their possible application in construction.

Depending on the production method, moisture resistance and strength, there are four types of OSB.

• OSB-1 - has low mechanical strength and low moisture resistance.
• OSB-2 - has high mechanical strength and low moisture resistance.
• OSB-3 - has high strength and resistant to moisture.
• OSB-4 is a high-tech type, has increased strength and rigidity, very high moisture resistance.

In addition, OSB is divided according to the type of coating into lacquered and laminated, which are used under the formwork. And also according to the degree of processing - into polished and unpolished.

Imported OSBs are divided into European and North American, depending on what standard they were manufactured to. The American standard is more stringent. This applies to strength requirements, dimensional tolerances, and environmental compliance. However, the water resistance of North American OSB is noticeably inferior to European ones.

Story

OSB was first made in 1982 in North America at one of the woodworking factories. In the USSR, the appearance of OSB dates back to 1986, when a plant for their production was opened in Belarus.

Production technology

For the manufacture of OSB, flat chips up to 180 mm long and 6 to 40 mm wide are used. Chip layers are laid in such a way that the inner layer is laid across the sheet, and the outer layers along the sheet. Usually OSB sheet consists of four layers, which achieves greater rigidity and reduces the ductility of the finished sheet. To increase the protective properties of the sheet, synthetic wax and salt are added to the adhesive resin. boric acid. Then, during the process of heat treatment at high temperature and subsequent hot pressing, the finished sheet is obtained from the chips. Properties

The main properties of the OSB sheet are strength, rigidity, low specific gravity, ease of processing.

OSB satisfies all the requirements for wood boards, but at the same time has the quality characteristics of wood. At the same time, OSB, unlike wood and plywood, is not subject to rotting, delamination and warping. In addition, they are not hygroscopic and are not affected by insects.

At present, thanks to a radical improvement in the quality of adhesive resins, it has been possible to establish the production of environmentally clean sheets OSB.

Advantages of OSB board

• The obvious advantages include their resistance to moisture and increased strength, as well as a small specific gravity.
• OSB processing is not difficult. They are easily drilled, planed and sawn.
• The OSB sheet securely holds the fasteners. These indicators are more than twice as high as those of chipboard.
• Application The use of OSB is due to their properties.
• They are used for wall cladding, and with any kind of external coatings.
• They also make a continuous crate under the roof from OSB, regardless of its type.
• In addition, OSB is widely used for the assembly of subfloors and flooring, and is also used as supporting surfaces.
• Load-bearing structures are made from OSB sheets in wooden housing construction, as well as removable formwork in the production of concrete work.
• High-quality packaging and sandwich panels are produced from OSB.

OSB processing

• OSB is processed in the same way as a massive tree. In this case, it is desirable to use milling cutters, saws and drills with hard alloy nozzles. In this case, the feed rate should be somewhat lower than that used for processing solid wood.
• Sheets should be supported to avoid vibration during processing.
• You can cut the OSB as on stationary machines as well as with hand tools.
• Plates, during processing, to reduce vibration, it is desirable to fix.

Fastening OSB occurs, in general, in the same way as fastening solid wood products, with screws, nails and staples. To increase the strength of the connection, ring and spiral nails are used. Smooth nails are not recommended.

When installing load-bearing structures, fasteners made of stainless materials should be used.

Since, with a change in humidity in the OSB, changes in volumetric characteristics may occur, safety gaps should be left between the OSB sheets, which will protect them from deformation.

Features of the use of OSB, OSB

OSB slab, according to technology, should be transported and stored in such a way as to avoid damage during installation. For storage of Osb, it is most convenient to provide a closed storage room with good ventilation. It is also possible to store Osb under a canopy so that they are not exposed to the risk of precipitation. In case of impossibility of storage, laying of Osb slabs according to the technology under a canopy, it is necessary to prepare for laying a flat horizontal surface in the form of a platform and ensure isolation from the ground. Wrap the pallet with a film, cover with a tarpaulin or in some other way protect it from moisture, while at the same time allowing air to enter the plate. Possible options for protection technology and pallet stacking are shown in the figures.

Osb floor installation technology

Osb with straight edges should be connected according to the technology on the floor logs, observing a temperature gap of at least 3 mm around the plate. When installing an Osb floor between walls or in the case of "floating floors", a gap of 12 mm must be left between the Osb and the wall according to the laying technology. The slabs must be laid on the floor with the main axis perpendicular to the joists. The connection of the short edges of Osb according to technology should always be on the logs. Long edges not laid on joists should have a tongue-and-groove profile, an appropriate support or connecting brace. If the room where the flooring is being laid does not have a roof, then during precipitation, drainage should be provided.

OSB or OSB (oriented strand board) is a relatively new building material that has become a successful alternative to plywood and chipboard. The role of OSB in frame construction is great, with the insulation of standard houses. Especially often, with the help of OSB, floor surfaces are formed and leveled. Today we will talk about how to do this correctly.

Types of OSB boards and their characteristics

OSB - boards consisting of several layers of wood chips pressed and glued with waterproof resins. Its gluing is carried out in 3 layers. In the outer layers, the chips are laid along the length of the panel, and inside - perpendicularly. This arrangement gives the OSB strength, allows you to firmly hold the fasteners.

The following types of OSB are used in construction:

• OSB-2 - panels with low moisture resistance. They are used only for interior work in dry rooms.
• OSB-3 is a versatile material. Withstands high humidity both indoors and outdoors. A large margin of safety allows it to be widely used in construction.
• OSB-4 - the most durable and moisture resistant plates. They are used to form load-bearing structures in conditions of high humidity.

For the construction and leveling of floors, OSB-3 sheets are usually used, which perfectly withstand the load from furniture, equipment, and the movement of people.

When leveling small floor defects, it is enough to use OSB boards with a thickness of 10 mm. Surfaces with significant bumps and potholes will require a material of 10-15 mm. If it is necessary to create a floor on logs, then the thickness of the OSB boards used should be at least 15-25 mm.

OSB boards are used as an even and solid base for various modern coatings - parquet, tile, linoleum, laminate, carpet. The main functions of oriented strand board are:

• Creating a floor surface. OSB is a popular material for creating a subfloor on logs. In this case, the flooring of the slabs can be carried out both on the upper side of the log and on the lower side.
• Surface leveling. Installing OSB on a wooden or concrete floor will help create a completely flat surface suitable for laying a finishing coat.
• Floor insulation. OSB board is 90% natural wood chips with high thermal insulation properties. Accordingly, the OSB floor does not allow heat to escape and keeps it indoors.
• Noise isolation. The multi-layer dense structure of the OSB reliably absorbs any kind of noise.

Consider several popular technologies for laying OSB on different bases.

Installation of OSB boards on a concrete floor (cement screed)

Let's start with the simplest situation - leveling the concrete base with OSB slabs. Work is carried out according to this scheme.

Debris is swept from the concrete base, dust is removed with a vacuum cleaner. The surface must be absolutely clean to ensure adhesion of the mounting adhesive. The base is covered with a primer. This also contributes to better adhesion of the adhesive to the base. In addition, the primer creates a dense film on the surface, which does not allow the screed to “dust” during operation.

OSB is laid out on the surface, if necessary, trimming is performed with an electric jigsaw or a circular saw. On the wrong side of the OSB, a rubber-based parquet adhesive is applied, using a notched trowel for uniform application. Glue the sheets to the concrete base.

Additionally, OSB is fixed with driven dowels. For guaranteed retention, the dowels are hammered around the perimeter every 20-30 cm. If the floor is even, the installation is carried out in a dry living room, then it is enough to fix the dowels at the corners of each slab (subject to the mandatory use of high-quality glue!).

When laying between the plates, expansion joints with a thickness of 3 mm are left. Along the perimeter of the room, between the OSB and the wall, the seam should be 12 mm. These gaps are necessary to compensate for temperature and humidity expansions (bulges) of the OSB during operation.

At the last stage of work, the OSB base is cleaned of dust and debris. The seams between the wall and the slabs are filled with mounting foam. Its drying time is 3-4 hours. Excess dry foam that protrudes beyond the surface is cut off with a sharp knife.

Installation of OSB boards on boardwalk

Laying OSB on an old wooden floor helps to level the surface and prepare it for the installation of the finish coat. Installation is carried out in this way:

1. To begin with, with the help of a level or a rule, the localization of irregularities (bulges, depressions) of the boardwalk is determined.
2. Boards that “walk” or rise too high above the general level are attracted to the joists with dowels, sinking them into the material. In some cases, to eliminate the creaking and unsteadiness of the boards, the floor has to be sorted out with the replacement (repair) of the lag.
3. They clean the influxes of paint from the flooring, bloating and protrusions are washed with a grinder or emery cloth.
4. OSB boards are laid out on the floor, with the seams of each next row shifted. Cross-shaped joints should not be! Dilatation gaps are provided (between the plates - 3 mm, along the perimeter of the walls - 12 mm).
5. Holes are drilled in the plates. Their diameter should match the diameter of the wood screws that were selected to fix the OSB to the floor. Holes are drilled along the perimeter of the plates every 20-30 cm, countersinking is performed under the caps of the self-tapping screws.
6. Self-tapping wood screws attract the OSB to the floor. The recommended length of self-tapping screws is at least 45 mm.
7. If you want to make the floor more durable, mount the second layer of OSB. The seams of the overlying and underlying layers should be laid with an offset of 20-30 cm.
8. Deformation gaps near the walls are filled with mounting foam, which is cut off after drying.

This completes the process.

Laying OSB on logs on a concrete base

In the presence of a concrete base (for example, floor slabs), the installation of a log and sheathing them with OSB sheets allows you to create a flat floor without the use of wet leveling screeds. And also to fit insulating, moisture and noise insulating materials into the structure.

Consider the technology of creating an OSB floor on logs on an existing concrete base. Logs (wooden bars) are fixed to the concrete floor with dowels or anchors.

The wider the distance between the lags, the thicker the OSB boards used. If the pitch is 40 mm, then the minimum OSB thickness is 15-18 mm, if the pitch is 50 cm - the thickness is 18-22 mm, if 60 cm - 22 mm or more.

Thanks to the lags, space is created between the OSB and the concrete floor. It can be put to good use by laying insulating material. For example, the floors of the first floors are often cold, so a heat insulator can be laid between the lags: mineral wool, polystyrene, EPS, etc. If there is a wet basement under the ceiling, the floor structure is supplemented with vapor barrier films or membranes.

OSB boards are laid across the log. The seams between adjacent plates (in width) should go strictly in the middle of the log. During installation, it is recommended to leave expansion gaps (3 mm - between the plates, 12 mm - between the OSB and the wall)

The sheets are fixed to the lags with self-tapping screws or nails (spiral, ring). Step of fasteners: along the perimeter of the sheets - 15 mm, on intermediate (additional) supports - 30 mm. Nails (or self-tapping screws) fixing the plates along the perimeter are placed at a distance of at least 1 cm from the edge (so that the OSB does not crack). Fasteners are selected so that their length is 2.5 times greater than the thickness of the plates used.

How to fasten OSB boards on logs in an ordinary city apartment, see the video:

Creating a subfloor from OSB on logs

Laying OSB on wooden joists is the easiest way to get a durable and reliable subfloor. This technology is especially appropriate with the existing columnar, pile, pile-screw foundation. Work order:

1. Logs are mounted on the foundation. The step of the lag should correspond to the thickness of the OSB boards used (the larger the step, the greater the thickness).
2. Perform a rough floor roll. To do this, retaining bars are nailed along the lag, OSB boards are laid and fixed on them. The surface facing the ground is covered with waterproofing preparations, for example, bituminous mastic.
3. A layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of the OSB.
4. Thermal insulation material is laid, for example, foam plastic, mineral wool boards, ecowool, etc.
5. Close the insulation with another layer of OSB. Fastening is carried out in the same way as when laying OSB on logs on an existing concrete base (the technology is described in the previous paragraph).

At this point, the work process is considered completed.

OSB processing for different finishes

A strong, hard and even surface makes OSB a universal base for all modern floor finishes. How to cover the floor from OSB? Here are some popular solutions:

• Lacquer or paint. In this case, OSB boards will act as finishing floors, which will only require decorative finishing with paints and varnishes. OSB sheets do not require any additional preparation, it is enough to clean them of dust and apply 2-3 layers of varnish (paint).
• Roll materials - linoleum and carpet. When laying rolled materials, it is necessary to ensure that the joints between OSB boards are flush with the rest of the surface. It is desirable to remove all irregularities with sanding paper. Expansion gaps - fill with elastic sealant.
• Tile(ceramic, vinyl, quartz vinyl, rubber, etc.). In order for the tile to be held on the base of the OSB, it is necessary to ensure its immobility. For this, lags are placed more often than required by the thickness of the sheets. The step between the fastening elements is also reduced. The tiles are glued onto the OSB using a special adhesive suitable for the wood surface and the tile used.
• Laminate- topcoat, which is fixed in a "floating" way, without rigid fastening of the lamellas. This coating is quite rigid, so it is not necessary to prepare OSB for laying laminate. Minor irregularities that may be at the joints of the plates are leveled by the substrate.

What exactly to choose - it's up to you.

Using OSB makes it possible to inexpensively and quickly level an existing wood or concrete floor. And if necessary, create it from scratch on the logs. The OSB surface will not require expensive finishing, additional leveling, coating with moisture-resistant compounds. This is an excellent choice for those who want to create a quality floor with minimal effort.

Orientation of OSB boards OSB OSB Boards consist of three layers. Chips in separate layers are located crosswise. This structure provides a high level of:

• Size constancy;
• Fracture resistance (flexural strength);
• Shear strength inside the slab.

Since the OSB board consists of three layers, it has a longitudinal and transverse axis. The longitudinal axis coincides with the prevailing direction of the top layer chips. It is parallel to the direction of the inscriptions (markings) applied to the plate on the edge of the plate. On milled panels, the longitudinal axis is perpendicular to the markings on the panel surface. The strength and modulus of elasticity of the plate in bending along the longitudinal axis is 2 times greater than that of the transverse axis. Therefore, during installation, it is necessary to observe the correct orientation of the slab specified by the designer (especially in single-layer building structures).

2. Acclimatization of plates and protection against water and humidity OSB OSB OSB

Plate acclimatization

Before installation on the construction site, according to the recommendation http://cmknn.ru/osb-3-osb-3, it is necessary to acclimatize the plates min. 48 hours to equalize their humidity with the ambient humidity at the place of application.

Approximate values ​​of board humidity:

• Installation conditions.
• Approximate material moisture content
• Premises with constant heating 6 - 9%.
• Premises with intermittent heating 9 - 10%.
• Room without heating 16-18%

OSB boards during their storage and use must be protected from water. After installation on the outside of the building, on the walls and roof, it must be covered with appropriate insulation to protect against adverse weather conditions. The edges of OSB 3 boards (especially at the edges) are exposed to high humidity, may swell moderately (in accordance with the norm). In this case, before installing the final elements (eg asphalt shingles on the roof), it is necessary to evenly sand the slab joints (to ensure an even surface).

To prevent damage to OSB boards, it is necessary to eliminate excessive moisture, which can be caused by:

• Using materials that are too damp or wet;
• Installation on non-dried objects built using "wet" processes;
• Errors during insulation work (water leakage into the building, improper installation of a vapor barrier, etc.);
• Insufficient weather protection (external walls and roof must be protected with appropriate insulation immediately after installation).

3. Cutting, milling, drilling OSB boards

The slabs can be processed in the usual way used for processing solid wood. Best to apply cutting tool and drills with a cutting part made of hard alloys. The feed rate depends on the tool being used. It is recommended to reduce the feed rate moderately compared to the feed rate used when processing solid wood. The slabs must be fixed in such a way that the slabs do not vibrate during processing. It is allowed to cut slabs with the use of hand power tools

4. Mounting plates

Fastening rules:

• The minimum diameter (section) of the staples should be 1.5 mm with a length of 50 mm;
• For OSB board, you can use nails as for solid wood, screws or staples.
• When mounting load-bearing structures, it is necessary to use connecting elements made of stainless materials (galvanized or stainless steel).
• Strengthening the strength of the connection can be achieved by using special nails; ring or spiral (the use of nails with a smooth core is not recommended.).
• The length of the connecting elements must be at least 2.5 times the thickness of the board to be attached, but in no case less than 50 mm; the distance from the connecting element to the edge of the slab must correspond to seven times the diameter of the connecting element (i.e. when using nails with a diameter of 3 mm - at least 20 mm);
• the maximum distance between nails driven into the edge of the slab should not exceed 150 mm;
• the maximum distance between nails hammered in the middle of the slab should not exceed 300 mm; plates with even edges are mounted on supports (ceiling frame, ceiling beam);
• fastening of OSB boards of small thickness must be started from the middle of their upper part and evenly continue fastening in the direction to the sides and down (to prevent swelling and deflection of the board).

5. Dilatation gaps (lat. dilatatio - expansion) OSB OSB OSB

• When mounting plates as a supporting structure of "floating" floors, it is necessary to leave a gap of about 15 mm wide when they are joined to the wall.
• When installing plates as wall cladding, it is necessary to leave a gap of about 10 mm wide when they are joined to the foundation;
• If the length of the surface on which the slabs are mounted exceeds 12 m, it is necessary to leave expansion gaps between the slabs with a width of 25 mm every 12 m.
• Since volumetric changes can occur in the plates (arising mainly due to changes in the ambient humidity, which affects the material), expansion gaps must be left between them, which prevent the occurrence of waviness or other undesirable phenomena on the plates. plates with even edges - it is necessary to leave gaps between them at least 3 mm wide when joining. plates with milled edges ("comb - groove").
• When docking, dilatation gaps are formed by themselves. Expansion gaps 3 mm wide must also be left when joining plates with other structures, for example, with a window frame, doors, etc.

6. Surface protection and paint coating on the OSB board

We recommend to carry out the so-called trial painting, which can reveal the incompatibility of the paint with the substances contained in the board. When painting, follow the instructions and rules developed by the paint manufacturers. For interior surfaces to be painted, we recommend using sanded boards. To paint the surface of the boards, you can use the usual colorless or colored paints used for painting wood.

ATTENTION!!! - When painting or immediately after painting, chips may come out from the surface of the boards, and when using water-based paints, chips may partially swell. Such occurrences are not grounds for complaint.

7. Application of OSB OSB OSB A1

• A1 Roof detail with prefabricated roofing
• A2 Roof detail with prefabricated wet environment
• B1 Roof detail with asphalt coating
• B2 Asphalt roof detail for wet environment
• C Detail of the external load-bearing wall
• D1 Detail of internal load-bearing wall
• D2 Detail of internal partition
• E1 Floor detail with "light" floating floor
• E2 Floor detail with "heavy" floating floor

Basic principles for the use of OSB boards in wooden structures and buildings

When designing and manufacturing reliable wooden structures with a long service life, it is necessary to follow the basic principles of wood protection. Without an appropriate solution of the components of the structure in terms of building heat engineering and checking the temperature and humidity inside the structure, it is impossible to guarantee the mechanical strength and stability of wooden structures, as well as their resistance to the destructive effects of biological factors. In order to ensure a long service life and reliability of new wooden structures and buildings, it is necessary to analyze all designed structures in terms of possible diffusion and condensation of water vapor or the ratio of temperature and humidity, as well as the corresponding stable moisture content of the wood, for compliance with the requirements that establish environmental parameters for the use of OSB boards .

The main difference in the possible limitation of the influence of water vapor penetrating through the structure follows from the method of analyzing the properties of the vapor barrier layer. Vapor barrier layer of a building structure, which limits the penetration of water vapor from the environment into the building structure, due to the equalization of temperature and water vapor pressure in the internal and external environment. During this process, as a result of lowering the temperature below a certain value, condensation of water vapor can occur. The resulting condensate can have a negative effect on the properties of the building structure or reduce its service life. Limiting the penetration of water vapor into the structure means limiting diffusion (penetration of water vapor caused by partial pressure) and moisture flow (penetration of water vapor caused by air current). In the specialized literature, one can find a classification of materials for a vapor barrier layer according to the equivalent diffusion thickness. The equivalent diffusion thickness Sd (m) determines the air gap, which provides the same resistance to water vapor as the corresponding layer of the building structure.

Note: The Sd value is not the diffusion resistance value of the structure layer, given in m/s-1). A significant increase in moisture in the outer layer compared to the calculated model at the site of damage to materials is caused by the spatial distribution of moisture and their unequal properties.

The difference in material properties can be caused by the following:

• violation of technological discipline
• poor-quality connection of certain types of materials and their contact with openings and surrounding structures
• compound aging

Humidity and OSB boards OSB-2

Carrier boards for use in dry environments (12% humidity resistance) OSB-3 Carrier boards for use in humid environments (24% humidity resistance) OSB boards are classified as OSB-2 and OSB-3 according to the standard.

Humidity class 1

It is characterized by moisture content in structural materials, which corresponds to a temperature of 20°C. and relative humidity of the ambient air, exceeding the value of 65% for no more than a few weeks a year. The average stable moisture content of most conifers does not exceed 12%.

Humidity class 2

It is characterized by the content of humidity in structural materials, which corresponds to a temperature of 20 ° C and a relative humidity of the ambient air exceeding 85% for no more than a few weeks a year. The average stable moisture content of most conifers does not exceed 20%.

Humidity class 3

It is characterized by climatic conditions that contribute to an increase in the moisture content of materials compared to humidity class 2.

General Recommended Principles for Designing Ceilings and Floors

9. Ceiling structures

OSB ceiling structures OSB OSB

Mounting: Mount plates with even edges on load-bearing beams with an expansion gap of 3 mm. Plates with tongue-and-groove edges must be glued together with glue (for example, polyurethane) to increase rigidity. Mount all plates in such a way that their longitudinal axis is perpendicular to the beams.

• Make sure that all faces perpendicular to the longitudinal axis lie on the beams. The width of the expansion gap along the perimeter of the walls must be at least 15 mm.
• fasteners: Nails 2.5 times the thickness of the slab, minimum 50 mm, with helix or grooves if possible. Screws with a length of 2.5 times the thickness of the board, at least 45 mm. (recommended screws with a minimum size of 4.2 x 45 mm). The maximum distance between nails is 150 mm at the joints of the boards, 300 mm at the plane of the board. Nails are driven in at a distance of at least 10 mm from the edge of the slab.
• Humidity Under the wooden ceilings of the first floor, located above the base, waterproofing is laid directly on the base to protect against moisture (film). During installation, protect the ceiling structures from possible exposure to rain. When the ceiling is open, holes must be made in it for the drainage of water.
• Recommended max. center distance between racks: min. the recommended plate thickness is 15 mm. 18 mm. 22 mm. Center distance between racks - 300 mm. 400 mm. 600 mm. 800 mm.

Note Center distances between uprights are indicative. Dimensioning is carried out taking into account the length of the slab and a certain exact value of the load on the slab.

10. Floor constructions on the bearing crate

The installation principles are the same as in the case of ceiling installation. When installing the boards, first lay a soundproof layer on the bearing bars (pillows) to absorb the sound of footsteps.

11. Designs of "floating" floors

Structures of "floating" floors OSB OSB OSB The floor structure consists of one OSB slab (OSB, OSB), "comb-groove" thickness. 18 - 22 mm or from two plates (recommended) thickness. 12 - 18 mm (min. 9 mm). The distribution surface of the floor can consist of a single OSB board, for floors that do not have high requirements for shape constancy, or in cases where no concentrated load is expected (in places above the tongue-and-groove joint). Otherwise, use a two- or multi-layer floor structure.

• The slabs are laid on soundproofing to absorb the sound of footsteps (rigid mineral wool or polystyrene mats intended for use in floor constructions).
• Separate layers of plates are laid in mutually perpendicular directions and connected by gluing along the surface or by screws.
• When using screws, we recommend connecting the boards in both directions or laying an intermediate layer between them (extruded microporous polyethylene or PSUL sealing tape) to prevent possible creaking. OSB-2 and OSB-3 are manufactured as structural boards with the appropriate permitted tolerances. Therefore, they can be used as a base for a classic parquet floor.

12. General recommended principles for the creation of structures for external and internal load-bearing walls

OSB boards OSB OSPOSB OSB OSB Installation

• OSB boards used for walls are mounted vertically or horizontally.
• When installing load-bearing walls, it is recommended to use boards that correspond in length to the height of the walls (to facilitate the determination of the required dimensions and the installation of boards).
• When installing plates horizontally, it is necessary to place strips of plates or stiffeners under all joints and free edges.
• The slabs can be fitted with a wooden frame structure on one or both sides.
• Plates are allowed to be mounted on the outer and inner sides of load-bearing walls.

Dilatation gaps

To prevent possible water absorption, the expansion gap between the frame and the concrete foundation must be at least 25 mm wide. Expansion gaps can be formed by installing the entire wooden structure on wedge pads, and filling the entire gap under the supporting wooden frame with cement mortar. If the frame is installed directly on the foundation, then it is necessary to provide its chemical protection and raise the plates above the foundation level to a height of at least 25 mm. An expansion gap of at least 3 mm wide must be left between the walls and along the perimeter of door and window openings.

fasteners Nails with a length of 2.5 times the thickness of the slab, at least 50 mm, if possible, with a spiral or grooves. Screws with a length of 2.5 times the thickness of the board, at least 45 mm (recommended screws with a minimum size of 4.2 x 45 mm).

Nails are hammered at a distance of at least 10 mm from the edge of the slab, in load-bearing walls - at a distance exceeding 7 times the diameter of the fastening material (at least 20 mm). - 625 mm.

Thermal and waterproofing boards

As an additional heat and sound insulation, it is recommended to use mineral wool from the front side. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the method of fastening this facade system. When using slabs for wall cladding on the outside, the diffusion resistance of the slab to the penetration of water vapor must be taken into account. On the other hand, slabs mounted on the inside of the wall can serve as a structural element with diffusion resistance (provided that the joints of the slabs and structural elements are sealed with appropriate insulating tape). When using tongue-and-groove plates, the tape can be replaced by gluing the tongue in the groove with glue (PUR, PVA). The junction of the lower edge of the wooden structure with the foundation must be covered with a protective waterproofing compound (for example, based on bitumen emulsions). Recommended max. center distance between individual fasteners (nails, screws) Plate thickness; 9 - 12 mm. 12 - 15 mm. 15 - 22 mm. At the edges of the plate; 100 mm. 125 mm. 150 mm. On the surface of the plate; 200 mm. 250 mm. 300 mm. For load-bearing walls, the center distance between fasteners is determined by static analysis. thirteen.

Mounting plates Before starting the installation of slabs on the roof structure, it is necessary to check the location of the rafters in the axes, whether they have a curvature and distinctive dimensions. Curved and other sized rafters adversely affect the properties and appearance of the roof. The slabs are connected in such a way that the faces perpendicular to the longitudinal axis lie on supports (rafters, slats, etc.) along their entire length. Therefore, it is recommended to choose the location of the rafters in modules with a span of 833 mm or 625 mm. In the case of a different or longer span (> 833 mm), in order to improve the surface of the roof structure, it is necessary to choose the option with a longitudinal battens or boards with a width of 80 - 100 mm.

Using rails mounted with a pitch (in axes) of 417 or 625 mm, it is possible to achieve a reduction in the thickness of the slab (depending on the load). Plates with an even edge Between the plates there must be an expansion gap 3 mm wide. To level the roof surface and accelerate the temperature equalization of the slabs, it is recommended to strengthen the longitudinal edges of the slabs with steel H-shaped brackets.

Tongue-and-groove plates

To strengthen the roof structure and increase the diffusion resistance of the structural layer, glue the edges with glue (eg PUR, PVA). Fasteners Nails with a length of 2.5 times the thickness of the board, i.e. 50 - 75 mm, if possible, with a spiral or grooves, galvanized or stainless steel, with a diameter of at least 3 mm. Screws with a length of 2.5 times the thickness of the slab, but not less than 45 mm (recommended screws with a size of at least 4.2 x 45 mm). Nails are hammered at a distance exceeding 7 times the diameter of the fixing material, but not less than 20 mm.

Environmental influences (temperature and humidity)

The boards are used in the roof structure as a material with diffusion resistance. In rooms with a normal air humidity of 50% (residential and office premises, etc.), they can be used in structures without a vapor barrier film, provided that the expansion gaps of the boards are sealed with an appropriate insulating tape or gluing tongue-and-groove joints.

Environmental Protection

Recommended max. center distance between individual posts and fasteners: Center distance between rafters; 600 mm. 800 mm. 1000 mm. Min. recommended plate thickness; 12 mm. 15 mm. 18 mm. Recommended distance between fasteners on the plane of the slab and the edge of the slab; 150 mm. Roof slope 40° or more - 150 Roof slope 30° - 40° - 200 Roof slope

Note. The dimensions are determined based on the adjusted value of the static load on the slabs. Boards that have been exposed to water (e.g. rain) must be dried before installation and roofing. The plate has a slippery smooth surface. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure the safety of installers when working on slabs mounted at an angle. When carrying out installation work on the roof, it is necessary to strictly observe the safety regulations and sanitary and hygienic standards established for work at height.

14. General principles of storage and warehousing of OSB boards (OSB, OSB)

OSB storage (OSB, OSB)

• For storage of plates it is most convenient to provide a closed storage room with good ventilation.
• It is also possible to store the slabs under a canopy in such a way that they are not exposed to the risk of atmospheric precipitation.
• If it is not possible to store under a canopy, it is necessary to prepare a flat horizontal surface and provide insulation from the ground with a layer of film, as well as wrap the pallet with film.

OSB storage OSB OSB OSB storage (OSB, OSB)

OSB boards (OSB, OSB) must be laid flat on a flat surface. OSB boards (OSB, OSB) should not be in contact with the ground to avoid possible contact with water. The ideal base is a plank or slatted pallet. In addition, OSB boards (OSB, OSB) can be carefully laid on wooden slats of the same thickness, the distance between the slats should not exceed 600 mm. Storage of OSB OSB OSB Incorrect laying can lead to deformation and damage of OSB boards (OSB, OSB). When placing several packs one above the other, the wooden slats must be in the same vertical plane. OSB boards (OSB, OSB) with limited space can be laid on the edge. In this case, the slabs must not come into contact with the ground and must be supported by a special rack. OSB OSB OSB Protection OSB (OSB, OSB) The top of the packs must be covered with a protective panel to prevent mechanical damage.

If the plates are outdoors, they must be protected with a moisture-proof coating. Protection during transportation OSB (OSB, OSB) During transportation, OSB boards must be protected from atmospheric precipitation. Humidity OSB (OSB, OSB) Like other wood-based boards, OSB boards (OSB, OSB) are hygroscopic and their dimensions change in response to changes in humidity. Changing the amount of moisture in OSB boards (OSB, OSB) can lead to changes in the size of the boards, and this can cause problems during the operation of the boards. A 1% change in moisture content will generally increase or decrease the length, width and thickness of different grades of OSB (OSB, OSB).

What is OSB, their advantages and disadvantages, types of oriented strand boards and the rules for their selection, technology for mounting panels on logs and a concrete base, features of decorative finishes.

Pros and cons of OSB flooring

Every year the demand for OSB boards is growing, which is not surprising, because the material has the following advantages:

• High level of panel strength. It is achieved due to the fact that in different layers of the board the chips are perpendicular. With the right choice of tile thickness, the structure will be able to withstand large power loads.
• Lightweight panels. The standard weight of a whole board is no more than 20 kilograms. Such material can be lifted independently, you do not have to hire a special team.
• The structure is resilient and flexible, which allows you to bend the boards without fear that they will break. This is very handy if you want to make OSB floors with rounded or other shapes, as well as when working with uneven surfaces.
• The panels have a high degree of moisture resistance. This effect is achieved through the treatment of boards with resins. When compared with other wooden building materials, this board will be less deformed when in contact with water or moisture.
• OSB is convenient and easy to work with. Panels can be installed using simple construction tools - saws, drills and screwdrivers. The cuts are even, no additional processing is required for them. On the OSB, various fasteners are well fixed - nails and self-tapping screws. Installation of plates will not take much time.
• The material has high performance in thermal insulation. Since OSB boards contain more than 90% natural wood chips, they perform the function of floor insulation. Therefore, such a floor covering will not allow heat to quickly evaporate and will maintain a stable temperature in the room.
• OSB provide a good level of sound insulation. The panels are multi-layered, thanks to which they absorb any noise well.
• Resistant to chemicals due to resin treatment.
• Particle boards are environmentally friendly. They are impregnated with special solutions that will not allow fungus or mold to form on the boards.
• OSB panels are budget and affordable.
• OSB flooring perfectly levels the surface. The slabs can be installed on a wooden or concrete floor, while creating an even surface on which the main finishing material can already be laid on top.
• They have a stylish color "under the tree", so that they do not require additional design processing.

There are not many shortcomings in the material. Of these, the following can be noted: when cutting boards, it is necessary to work in a mask or respirator, since wood chips and dust are harmful to the respiratory organs. Moreover, some types of low-quality panels can release dangerous carcinogens when working with them.

In addition, an OSB subfloor may contain a synthetic substance such as phenol. But in the last few years, manufacturers have been actively solving this problem and are switching to the production of formaldehyde-free panels. Such material is considered absolutely safe for human health. On its packaging you will find the label "Eco" or "Green".

The main types of OSB for the floor

OSB is a panel consisting of three layers of wood chips, which are pressed and glued together with a waterproof resin during production. The direction of the chips inside the boards alternate: first along, then perpendicularly. Thanks to this arrangement, the plates are strong and hold the elements of the fastening system well.

In construction work, several types of OSB are used:

1. OSB-2. Such plates have a low level of water resistance, so they are used only for interior decoration of dry rooms.
2. OSB-3. These are universal boards. They are resistant to high humidity both indoors and outdoors. The material is very dense, therefore it is used in construction work of any complexity.
3. OSB-4 panels. The most durable and moisture resistant type of plates. Often they are used to create structures in rooms with a high level of humidity.

Features of the choice of OSB boards for the floor

The most versatile material for flooring in a residential area is OSB-3. It is recommended to choose products manufactured by Western European manufacturers. Such panels meet European quality standards and have a high density.

The thickness of the OSB floor slab can be different, but in order for the panels to retain heat well, perform soundproofing functions, and also level the surface, it is recommended to choose products with a thickness of eight to ten millimeters. When mounting boards on logs, the recommended thickness of the panels is 16-19 mm. OSP-3 boards withstand various power loads and people's movements well.

To well level small defects in the flooring, it is enough to use a material ten millimeters thick. If the floor is with strong bumps and cracks, then 15-25 mm slabs will be required.

OSB is often used on the floor under linoleum, parquet, tile or laminate. This material serves as a high-quality and durable basis for a decorative coating.

Technology for mounting OSB boards on logs

The choice of material and floor design depends on the purpose of the room, its characteristics. As a rule, two main types of laying OSB boards are used - on logs and directly on a concrete screed.

Advantages and disadvantages of fastening OSB panels to logs

This version of the installation of the subfloor is quite simple, it can be done in a few days on your own. OSB panels are dense, resistant to crumbling, moisture resistant, not afraid of contact with biological and chemical substances and, most importantly, perfectly attached to the bars.

OSB joist floors are a great alternative to concrete screed. Such installation allows you to save money on building materials. In addition, the surface can be easily insulated, and the wiring of communications will not cause problems - they can simply be placed in the cracks between the wooden blocks.

The advantages of laying OSB on logs include the fact that with their help the bases are perfectly leveled even with the sharpest drops themselves. It turns out a smooth surface, and the floor structure is not weighted. If some panels become unusable, they can be easily replaced.

Of the disadvantages of this installation method, it can only be noted that the whole structure turns out to be quite high, about 90-95 mm, and this will make the room lower.

Preparatory work before laying OSB on logs

The beginning of installation work is the preparation of the foundation. First of all, we inspect the floor for damage, cracks, chips, depressions, mold and mildew. If large defects are found, then they should be removed before laying the logs. Minor flaws can be left, since the height of the lags will hide them anyway.

Mold and fungus must be removed without fail. If this is not done, microorganisms will attack the logs, and eventually the OSB boards. This will lead to premature damage to the flooring. All debris from the floor surface should be removed.

Logs can be installed on the floor with a slope, but the maximum slope level should be 0.2%. To determine the angle, you must use a water level or a long building one. If too large slopes are found, they should be leveled with a self-levelling compound.

The procedure for installing lags on the floor

The dimensions of the bars for lags are always calculated according to individual measurements. In this case, the products must be of the same dimensions.

After they are prepared, proceed to the installation according to the following scheme:

• We install wooden beams around the entire perimeter of the room, fix them at the same distance from each other - 40 centimeters.
• The distance between the wall and the material should be no more than twenty centimeters.
• We fasten the logs to the base of the floor with bolts or self-tapping screws.
• The upper surfaces of the lags must be in a strictly horizontal plane. Their evenness should be periodically checked by the building level.
• If the room is damp enough, then the bars must be treated with protective agents against mold and fungus.
• If necessary, we put insulation in the gaps.

How to fix OSB on logs

For laying OSB panels on the floor, you will need construction tools such as a tape measure, a hammer, a water level, a jigsaw and a puncher. Also, for the installation process, prepare special fastening systems for woodworking and a nail puller.

Laying on the floor should be oriented strand boards with simple edges. Well, if they have grooves that will help fasten the panels together. To correctly calculate the required number of sheets, consider the fact that seven percent of the material will be lost during cutting.

Do-it-yourself OSB floors are easy to install according to the following instructions:

1. The plates are laid across the lags.
2. The seams between the panels should be minimal and go clearly in the center of the log. Between the OSB, you need to leave a distance of about two millimeters so that the floor does not deform over time and does not begin to creak.
3. Between the OSB plate and the wall we leave a larger gap - 12 millimeters.
4. We fix the panels to the beams by means of self-tapping screws or nails (ring, spiral).
5. The step of the fasteners along the sheet should be about 15 millimeters. On additional supports - 30 millimeters.
6. Fasteners that hold the plate around the perimeter are located at a distance of about 1 centimeter from the edge. This is necessary so that it does not crack.
7. The length of self-tapping screws or nails should be 2.5 times greater than the thickness of the plate.
8. The gaps formed between the walls and the rough flooring must be filled with building foam or mineral wool.

Thus, with the help of OSB boards laid on logs, it is possible to prepare a rough base for further laying parquet, tiles or carpet on it.

Laying OSB panels on a concrete screed

The procedure for installing OSB boards on a concrete floor is preceded by a preparatory stage. From the base it is necessary to remove debris and dust. In order for the adhesive to adhere well, the surface must be clean. The base is covered with a primer. It will help the glue to better adhere to the panels, and will also prevent the screed from “dusting” during operation.

• The panels are laid out on the floor surface. If necessary, cut the OSB with a jigsaw or saw.
• Next, apply glue to the inside of the plate. To spread the product evenly over the surface, use a notched trowel.
• We glue the chipboards on the concrete base. Additionally, they can be fixed with the help of driven dowels, which should be placed every half a meter.
• Between each plate we leave an expansion joint, two millimeters thick.
• Between the walls in the room and wooden boards, the gap is no more than 13 mm. These seams are necessary so that during the operation of the coating no swelling occurs due to temperature and humidity changes.
• The last step in installing OSB boards on the floor is cleaning the panels from debris. We also carry out the sealing of all the formed seams with the help of mounting foam. It dries in three to four hours. Remove excess foam from the coating with a sharp knife.

Decorative flooring made of OSB boards

After the installation of OSB boards on the floor is completely completed, you can start finishing the flooring. If you plan to leave such a floor as the main one, then as an option, the surface can be completely varnished or painted, and skirting boards can be installed around the perimeter.

No additional preparation of OSB for painting is required. It is only necessary to clean the floor of dust and cover it with a couple of layers of varnish or paint. This can be done with a roller or a sprayer. Hard-to-reach places should be painted over with a brush.

There are panels that are more expensive, but they are already available with a glossy finish. Finishing such a coating will be very simple: just ennoble the perimeter of the room with a plinth - and that's it, the floor is ready for use.

If you are laying roll materials on top of the plates, for example, carpet or linoleum, then make sure that all joints between the OSB panels are flush with the entire surface and do not protrude anywhere. Any small irregularities can be removed with sanding paper. Compensation gaps must be filled with elastic sealant.

For laying over OSB laminate, it is not necessary to prepare the panels. Small unevenness at the joints will be leveled by the substrate.

How to lay OSB on the floor - look at the video:

Installation of OSB boards is a way to inexpensively and efficiently level a concrete base. And if there is a need, then create a floor from scratch, fixing the panels on the logs. Such a coating does not need expensive finishing or impregnation with moisture-resistant solutions, and you can even lay it yourself.

OSB board is a modern building material that, according to its characteristics, has successfully replaced chipboard and plywood. These are used in the construction of frame houses, and for insulation. Also use these products for the arrangement of rough coatings. OSB flooring is a great opportunity to inexpensively and with minimal effort level a concrete screed or

What is OSB?

Oriented strand board consists of several layers pressed and then glued with special waterproof resins. It is glued in three layers. On the outer sides, the chips are placed along the length, inside - perpendicularly. This solution gives the new building material a special strength.

Types of OSB boards

In construction work, as well as in the repair, several types of these plates are used. So, OSB-2 is a panel that has a very low moisture resistance. This solution is only suitable for interior work in dry rooms.

OSB-3 is a more versatile board. Among the characteristics - high resistance to moisture both indoors and outdoors. Also, the plate has a huge margin of safety.

OSB-4 is the most durable and most moisture resistant materials. They are used only to create load-bearing structures in conditions where the level of humidity is especially high.

Which slabs are suitable for the floor?

If you need to make a floor from OSB, then OSB-3 is best suited for these purposes. These plates perfectly withstand the impact of heavy furniture, various equipment and other mechanical loads.

These panels are used for finishing flooring before laying. If there are only small defects on a rough concrete or wooden base, then the thickness of the sheets in this case should be no more than 10 mm. If there are larger protrusions and depressions on the surface, then it is best to use thicker plates. Their thickness in this case should be from 10 to 15 mm.

If you plan to build the floor on logs, then even thicker sheets should be used - the thickness should be from 15 to 25 mm.

Selection rules

It is worth knowing some selection rules. It is very important who made the sheets. Experts with experience recommend opting for products from Canada or Europe. As for the size, it is considered standard for this material - 2.44x1.22 m.

The main functions of OSB boards

Such panels are used to create a smooth and maximum solid foundation under various types of modern finishing floor coverings. It can be parquet, ceramic tiles, laminate, carpet.

This is ideal for leveling floors. The plywood that was used before does not have such high performance. If there is a choice - plywood or OSB floor, then the latter will be more durable.

Advantages and disadvantages

Among the advantages of such a building material, a sufficiently high density is also distinguished - even a large rat cannot damage this base. High resistance to moisture allows the material to be used anywhere - you can lay these sheets in baths, as well as in various unheated rooms.

Laying OSB on the floor does not require special skills - absolutely any home master can do this, which is a serious advantage. To equip the rough base, it is enough to be able to use the usual building level, a hacksaw and a hammer.

OSB is a great opportunity to save money, since the price of these plates is low. One element will be enough to process a serious area. You can also highlight high strength characteristics - even under heavy loads, the floor will not deform.

Installation of OSB on a concrete floor

Imagine such a situation - there is a terribly curve. For alignment, you can apply the following scheme. The technology is relevant for any concrete surfaces.

The first step is to clean as much as possible work surface. To do this, you can use either a vacuum cleaner or a broom. It is necessary to ensure maximum cleanliness, because the sheets will be glued with mounting adhesive. Clean surface - high adhesion.

Then the cleaned base should be covered primer composition. This will help the adhesive adhere better to the concrete surface. In addition, the primer forms a sufficiently dense film on the screed, which will prevent it from dusting during use.

Then they begin to lay out the OSB boards on the floor. If necessary, cut pieces to the right sizes jigsaw or circular saw. From the wrong side, the material is applied. It should be chosen only on a rubber basis - it is more effective for solving such a problem. To ensure that the adhesive can be applied as evenly as possible, experienced professionals recommend using a notched trowel.

Additionally, the plate should be fixed with a driven dowel. This is done for a guaranteed and secure hold. It is best to hammer dowels around the perimeter. Interval - 20-30 cm. If concrete screed even, and the installation is carried out in a dry room, then you can mount the OSB only in the corners, but this is taking into account the fact that high-quality glue is used.

In the process of laying between the sheets, it is necessary to leave expansion joints. Their width should be about 3 mm. A 12 mm seam is also left around the entire perimeter of the room - between the slab and the wall. These are special deformation gaps, which, if necessary, can compensate for the expansion of materials. The OSB floor is almost ready.

In conclusion, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the resulting surface from dust and various debris accumulated there. Expansion joints are filled with mounting foam. The surfaces are then allowed to rest and dry for 4 hours. After that, it remains only to cut off the foam, and you can lay the topcoat.

Installation of OSB on a wooden floor

So, before you do the installation work, you should again prepare the base base. It is very important to pay attention to nails, if any. They must be drowned deep into the board. For this, a regular hammer and a steel bolt are best suited. The diameter of the bolt must be equal to the diameter of the nail. If the floorboard has become unusable during operation, it must be restored with a planer.

After that, you can proceed directly to the installation of OSB. First of all, pre-cut sheets are laid out on the surface. Here, as in the case of installation on concrete, it is important to remember the need expansion joints. For fixing plates, it is best to use self-tapping screws, the length of which is 4 cm. The interval of fasteners is approximately 20-30 cm. The self-tapping screws are recessed into the plate.

After the installation is completed, it is recommended to grind the joints. This can be done by hand, but if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is serious, then it will do. If you need maximum effect, then it is worth arming yourself with a vibration machine, which is equipped with a grinding grid. It is worth processing the plate with the utmost care - you can easily make recesses on its surface.

Installation of plates is extremely simple. It turns out that all masters understand how to make a floor from OSB. This new building material is worth a try. He is efficient and a pleasure to work with.