Do-it-yourself siding step by step instructions. Various types of siding. Do-it-yourself siding installation: instructions for dummies. Installing J-Strips Around Window and Door Openings

Improve appearance at home or any other extension, you can install siding, moreover, it perfectly protects the walls from precipitation and wind blowing. This facade material is also used for facing industrial buildings.

Siding is a practical and popular facing building material. It is produced in the form of panels with a length of 3 to 4 meters, each of which has a latch-lock and an edge with holes for fasteners. Siding has good performance and aesthetic appearance. From positive qualities you can note:

makes the appearance of the building more beautiful and neat;
thanks to a large selection of panels, the house can be given an individual style;
at quality siding service life - more than 30 years;
installation can be done independently;
is a safe material;
when dirty, it is easily cleaned with water and detergent.

Poor-quality and cheap siding burns out under the influence of the sun after 2 years, since a small amount of titanium dioxide is added to it during production.

Finishing panels are available in a variety of textures, and come in a wide range of colors. Siding is made of several types:

Metal;
Vinyl;
Basement (fiber cement);
Acrylic;
Wooden.

Let's take a closer look at each type:

Vinyl siding is made from polyvinyl chloride and can mimic stone, wood, and brick finishes in appearance. The panels are lightweight and resistant to mold and decay. The material is non-toxic and not damaged by pests. Vinyl products do not conduct electricity and have a low cost, but are not resistant to mechanical stress.

Acrylic siding is a new finishing material, and technically almost similar to vinyl siding. At the same time, it is very durable, has a more resistant coating to UV rays. The panels have a long service life and do not deform from high temperatures. It is also resistant to aggressive substances and non-flammable. Acrylic siding has one drawback - the high cost.

Metal siding is steel, aluminum and galvanized. This material is strong, durable and safe for environment. Panels don't change. original form at temperature differences and are resistant to oil and chemical substances. Mold cannot grow on its surface and pests do not eat it. Metal siding has several disadvantages. When the protective coating peels off, rust forms on the panel. When it rains, there is a lot of noise. Metal siding is more expensive than vinyl siding.

wood siding or facade lining is the most environmentally friendly material and has excellent thermal insulation performance. Produced from coniferous and larch wood species. So that the panels do not darken and do not crack, they are applied protective covering. The price of the material depends on the type and type of wood.

Fiber cement panels are made from high quality cement, cellulose fibers and sand. The outer side of the plate has a special coating that protects against moisture and sun rays. The material is non-combustible, and also it does not rot or grow moldy. fiber cement siding resistant to mechanical damage and deformation. Does not contain harmful substances and is environmentally friendly. Service life - 25-50 years, depends on the manufacturer and external conditions.

Installation of battens with waterproofing and insulation

Before installing the siding, it is necessary to make a reliable frame. The crate can be made of wooden beams or metal profiles. Attached to the walls with brackets. The racks of the crate are fixed opposite to the direction of the siding, that is, if the panels are mounted horizontally, then the crate is made vertically, and vice versa. The distance between the elements in the structure depends on the weight of the siding - the heavier the material, the more often the racks are attached.

Step-by-step instructions for making a crate:

The surface of the walls is prepared, drains and all protruding parts are removed.
If necessary, priming of the walls is carried out, wooden surfaces treated with an antiseptic.
Using a level and a plumb line, places for attaching suspensions are outlined. They are placed every 40 cm, retreat 15 cm from the edges of the walls, and 10 cm from the inner corner.
Drill holes, insert dowels and mount U-shaped brackets.
Beams are fastened along the edges of the wall, a rope is pulled between them.
The remaining vertical beams are mounted.
In increments of 40 cm, horizontal metal profiles are installed.
Above the plinth, above and below windows and doors, horizontal elements of the crate are fixed with the help of a “crab” connector.
Between the racks and under the crate fit mineral insulation, overlapped at the joints. It is attached to the wall with dowels-umbrellas.
The mineral wool and the crate are covered with wind and vapor barrier insulation. The edges of the film are stacked on top of each other and glued with construction tape. It is fixed to the crate with double-sided tape and counter rails.

You can insulate the walls immediately after installing the U-shaped brackets. The heat-insulating material is put on suspensions and fixed with dowels-umbrellas, after which it is covered with waterproofing, and a crate is mounted for installing siding.

For regions with a warm climate, thermal insulation is not done, and for cold zones, the thickness of the insulation should be at least 15 cm.

Installation of the starting bar

Before mounting the starting bar, ebbs are installed. They are fixed with self-tapping screws with a distance between them of 40 cm. When docking, the ebbs are placed on top of each other. The overlap width is at least 2.5 cm. A building level is used to indicate an even angle.

The starting or starting bar refers to the elements that carry the load. It is installed from the upper edge of the ebb or at the very bottom of the wall. The first sheet of siding is being installed on it. The initial bar is fixed, referring to the level, since the evenness of the entire wall cladding depends on its installation.

Installation of the starting bar:

from the lower border of the future sheathing recede upwards by 4 cm;
using the level make marks on all uprights crates or make marks on the wall if there is no frame;
the initial bar is set with the upper edge to the marks;
fixed with screws in the middle of the factory holes;
the starting strips are attached so that the distance between them is 0.5 cm (this gap is necessary for thermal expansion);
the same distance should be from the edges of the corner elements or the width of the corner profile plus 12 cm.

Why do you need a J-profile

The J-profile is a versatile, load-bearing siding element. It happens ordinary, arched (flexible) and wide.
A regular J-profile is needed to complete the facing row at the end of the wall, to sheath the edge of the eaves or to replace the finishing panel.
Wide is usually used to decorate door and window openings.
Arched is used along the edge of the opening, which has the shape of an arch. The panel has notches where cuts are made on necessary distance so it can be bent to the desired angle.
J-profiles are fixed to the walls with nails or self-tapping screws.

How to install siding

Siding is fastened to the facade of the building or to the crate. Fastening methods depend on the type of facing material:

Vinyl panels should only be fastened to the factory holes.
For wooden cladding, it is recommended to use galvanized fixing fittings.
The elements should be fastened evenly and straight, in the center of the factory hole.
When fixing the siding to each other, they press it from the bottom up so that the top panel snaps into the lock of the bottom one.
When installing the planks, it is necessary to leave a gap of 2 mm between them and the crate to expand the cladding during temperature changes.

Installation of internal and external corner strips

Corner panels are load-bearing elements. Fastened after the starting profile. Designed to close and fasten the edges of the siding, they also serve as guides.

Installation of corner strips:

mount the panel so that its lower part protrudes 0.5-0.7 mm above the starting bar, and the upper edge does not reach the cornice by 5-7 mm;
begin to fix the profile from top to bottom;
the first self-tapping screw is screwed in at the top of the factory hole, the rest fasteners located in the middle of the holes;
the distance between the screws is made 20 cm;
to lengthen the corners, holes for fasteners are cut off at the top profile to a length of 34 mm so that the planks overlap each other by 25 mm, and the remaining 9 mm are left for a gap;
if the starting strips are located close to the corner, then the edges of the nail fasteners are cut at the corner profile to the height of the starting strip;
internal and external corner strips are installed using a plumb line and level.

How to lengthen siding strips

When the siding is shorter than the length of the sheathed wall, a connecting bar is placed horizontally to lengthen the panels. The connecting profile closes the joints of the siding, which makes it more durable, protects against precipitation under the cladding. In addition, this way the appearance of the facade will look more beautiful, and look like one whole.

You can also lengthen siding panels using the "overlap" method. Profile sheets should be arranged in a checkerboard pattern, avoiding butt joints at the same level in a row. The overlapping length of one panel on another must be at least 5 cm, with the obligatory coincidence of the factory holes for fasteners.

H-profile installation

H-profile refers to additional load-bearing elements. Used to connect two horizontal sheathing panels if the wall length is over size facing material. It is also used when connecting soffit (cornice) siding.

The fastening of the connecting strip starts from the top of the wall. The first fastener is made in the upper part of the hole, the subsequent screws are twisted in the middle of the holes. The H-profile from the cornice should recede 0.5 cm, and be 6 mm below the starting bar. On both sides, the connecting profile has an indent of 0.6 cm from the launch panels, that is, it is located between them.

During installation, the siding is inserted into the H-profile not to the stop, but to leave a gap of 5-6 mm for thermal expansion.

Installation of ordinary siding panels

For a smooth and neat finish of the facade of the building, it is necessary to use a level, the length of which must be at least 80 cm.

The first siding panel with the end side is inserted into corner bar, and the lower part is brought into the bend-lock of the initial one and snapped into place. Then, if necessary, it is pulled up to align the horizontal row. Twisting the fasteners on the panel is done from the center to the edges. It is necessary to leave 5 mm between adjacent strips for thermal expansion.

Fasteners must not be fully screwed in. A gap of 1-2 mm is left from the screw head to the panel. The profile must not be pulled up after the locking connection on the starter bar has snapped into place.

Subsequent rows of panels are installed in the same way - one side of the siding is placed in the corner groove, and the other in the H-profile or in the opposite corner. The installed panel snaps into the lock of the previous one and is screwed to the crate.

Facing the facade with siding is mounted to the top of the wall, but so that there is room for the installation of the finishing strip and the last profile.

Siding finish strip

The finish strip is a decorative element that is used to create a beautiful and airtight finish on the top edge of the last panel. Mounted with the side with the factory mounting holes facing down and the panel latching facing up.

The order of installation of the finishing strip:

the bar is mounted with screws at the very top of the wall, under the eaves;
the distance from the top of the finishing bar to the installed panels is measured, and 0.3 cm is subtracted from the result; if the width of the profile sheet is greater than the distance, then the upper part is cut off from it;
at the cut-off panel (without the upper part), holes are made every 10 cm with perforating pliers;
for the prepared plank, the lower part is inserted into the lock of the previous profile, and the upper part is inserted into the lock fastening of the finishing panel and snapped into place.

Fasteners are screwed on the finish bar through 3-5 holes and in their center.

How to siding around windows and doorways

Before sheathing the siding, the openings of windows and doors are trimmed with special additional elements (platbands). around the perimeter inside windows (doors) fix the rails to which the finishing profile is screwed.

At the upper and lower window strips, the edges on the inside are cut by 2 cm, and bent in the form of "tongues". The upper and lower trim is inserted into the groove of the finish, then fixed with screws to the crate. When installing the side window trims, the "tongues" are brought inward.

If the width of the siding panel does not fit under the window or above the window (or door), it is shortened to the desired depth along the width of the opening. At the cut point, holes are made for fasteners, which should match the factory ones in size. After that, the siding panel is slipped under the window element and fixed. Bottom window opening a low tide is installed, the upper edge of which rises from the window along its entire length. By width window tide should be 5 cm larger than the opening.

Above the window (door), the profile is mounted in the same way. For wall cladding on the side of the openings, the panels are cut to the required length. Then they bring it under the platbands.

When wall cladding is made with highly embossed siding, for example, a block house, then the installation of window slats is done after the installation of the panels.

Pediment sheathing

On the final stage proceed to facing the pediment. If the attic will be used for living quarters, then the gable is insulated.

First prepare the roof overhangs and end part roofs. Remove old trim, ebbs and wind boards. The roofing material is cut so that it is flush with the front overhangs. The crate under the gable siding is done in the same order as on the walls.

Gable siding installation:

if the wall of the house and the pediment are separated by a cornice, then the tide strips are mounted;
along the perimeter of the pediment, J-slats are fixed or the starting one is below, and the finish one is above;
corners are made from a metal profile and strips are installed outside corners;
since the shape of the pediment has an angular slope, a piece of siding is used as a template to apply cutting lines to it;
the connection of the panels is done with an overlap or with the help of an H-bar;
top - ridge siding sheet, fixed from above directly through the panel, it is better to drill a hole in advance.

The cornice is finished with a special facing material- soffit. For the installation of panels, the edges of the eaves are sheathed on the inside with slats. J-strips are attached to them. Soffit siding is flexible enough that it can be easily installed with a slight downward bend and is wound into the grooves of the J-bar. A click is heard when the panel is correctly inserted. The distance between them is 0.2-0.3 cm for thermal expansion. The installation completes the cladding of the building roofing strips- droppers. They are placed on the outside of the slopes.

You can install siding with your own hands. The main thing is to strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions and follow all recommendations. You should buy building materials in one batch at once, so that it is enough to finish all the walls, plus 5-10% more than the calculated amount (for fitting). Additional elements are purchased from the same manufacturer.

In this article I want to talk about how to install siding with your own hands. I’ll tell you why the house was covered with siding, and not with other material. I will give examples possible errors during do-it-yourself siding and how to avoid them. As a result, this article can become for people planning to install siding installation instructions from the selection and calculation of siding panels to the final installation of siding.

Introduction

It has been 15 years since my house was completed. The house is built of timber, inside the walls of the house are sheathed with fiberboard, and the facade of the house is sheathed with clapboard. I live on the east coast of Kamchatka, where winter lasts at least 5 months.

During this time, the outer sides of the walls of the house were exposed to frosts, evil cold winds, as well as frequent snowstorms in winter, and frequent rains and fogs in autumn. All these atmospheric phenomena had a negative impact on the condition of the external cladding of the walls of the house.

The lining, the outer wall cladding dried up, warped, cracks formed at the joints, it became noticeably colder in the rooms and there was a clear feeling of dampness. The question arose of replacing the coating of the outer walls and, first of all, the northeastern pediment, which was the first to take all the blows of the changeable Kamchatka weather.

I needed to solve two fundamental questions:

What material to choose (the same lining, or something else)?
Should I lay the new layer on top of the old layer of cladding, or should I remove the old one and clad it again?

The answer to the first question was found quickly - the lining will not work. Why? Just by re-sheathing the house with clapboard, I will have to paint it again every year, and still, after 10-15 years, the house sheathing will have to be replaced. The house needs to be sheathed with such material so that it lasts more long term, unlike lining, did not require annual care(painting) and that this material is resistant to precipitation.

After going through various options, I decided to choose vinyl siding. Mounting vinyl siding do-it-yourself is quite simple, in addition, the siding itself is quite cheap, durable, does not require any repair and painting during the entire service life. Maintenance of siding is also simple - it is enough to remove dust and dirt adhering to the top, even with a jet of water from a hose. Service life - up to 50 years. Temperature range - from -60 to +60°С.

Siding. Vinyl panels

I chose panels 6 m long (so that there is less waste, since maximum length my pediment is 5.8 m). One such panel has an area of 1.37 square meters. m. Not the last role in the choice was played by the price of these panels in our hardware stores - 180 rubles / m2 ($ 5.2).

The range of colors and shades of commercially available vinyl siding is very diverse. I chose the color "Sandstone" as it harmonizes well with the gray slate and white cornices.

Note: the pits are marked in fig. 3

The answer to the second question (how to sheathe a house with siding) - I decided to mount a new layer on top of the old one. Why?

First, I did not have to do the extra work of dismantling the old skin, which saved me at least one day;
Second: if you remove the old sheathing, then when sheathing the house with siding, most likely, when attaching the crate, you would have to align the attached rails so that their surface of the ends to which the siding panels are attached would be located in the same plane, and, nailing them onto the old sheathing, this is not necessary - as the walls already have a flat surface.

Siding calculation

After that, it was necessary to calculate the siding and determine the number of purchased panels and trim strips for them. To do this, I carefully measured the pediment and made it detailed drawing in scale 1:25. Excluding the window openings of the house and the veranda total area the pediment was 22 m2. According to the drawing, he accurately determined where and what trimmings from six-meter panels would be installed, so I bought all the materials with a minimum margin for waste. As a result, there is practically no waste left.

An example of calculating the area of the pediment:

Calculation of the area of the pediment, I did according to Heron's formula (calculation of the area of a triangle):

S=√p(p-a)(p-b)(p-c),

where the semi-perimeter is calculated by the formula:

p=(a+b+c):2

The scheme for calculating the area of the pediment

Now we write the derived data, where

a - 8m, b - 8m, c - 6m

Calculation of the gable semi-perimeter:

p=(8+8+6):2=11m

Having calculated the semi-perimeter of the triangle (pediment), I calculated the area (S) of the pediment:

S= √ 11(11-8)(11-8)(11-6)

S= √495 = 22.25

The gable area is 22.25 sq.m.

Accessories for vinyl siding

In addition to the panels, it was additionally necessary to buy:

starting strip - 12 pcs. 2.8 m each;
outer corner - 4 pcs. 2.8 m each;
J-bars - 16 pcs. 2.8 m each;
self-tapping screws - 600 pcs.

Note: J-bar as soon as they are not called: "J-channel", "Jay Chanel", "Edge rail", "J-rail", "J-profile", and in stores sometimes "Finish bar", although this name applies to a completely different detail ... Further in the text, we will call it the "J-bar" in the future.

Preparing for the installation of siding with your own hands

I decided to sheathe the house with siding with my own hands, since such work costs us an average of 50% of the cost of materials. But why pay "extra money" when you can do this work yourself.

Before proceeding with the sheathing of the pediment, I had to start installing reliable scaffolding. Working at a height of about 6 m, standing on a ladder, is unrealistic. In addition, due to the lack of assistants, there was simply no one to hold the 6-meter end of the panel on the other side. In the old stocks of building materials, there were two 6-meter beams 150x50 mm and smaller beams with a section of 100x50 mm.

For flooring, I bought 40 mm boards (with the expectation that later I will dissolve them into veins for a new fence). With this work, hitherto unfamiliar to me, I coped quite easily ...

I started installing the siding with my own hands from the bottom of the house. But... I won't get ahead of myself. I will sign all the work in order, step by step, what needs to be done and in what sequence, as required by the installation instructions.

The tool needed to work with siding

Basically you need the most common tool, which is well known to any summer resident who has ever been engaged in construction or carpentry work. Here is a list of what you need to have on hand:

roulette;
metal ruler;
metal joiner's square (at least 30 cm long);
hacksaw for metal with small teeth;
a hammer;
screwdriver (or regular screwdriver);
awl;
knife-cutter;
metal scissors;
twine and chalk;
level (at least 60 cm long);
pliers.

Preparing the wall surface for siding

Although not the most difficult, but very important stage, as well as the key to a high-quality and successful installation of siding, is a thorough preparation of the foundation. First of all, you should remove all climbing plants and tree branches in contact with the walls. Take off drainpipes, lamp fixtures and other details from those sections of the walls of the house where they can interfere with the installation of panels.

If the cladding of the house with siding with your own hands will be carried out according to the old existing cladding from the lining, as I did, then you must first carefully examine and evaluate the condition of the old cladding (if any) and the wooden elements of the wall structure. Lagging boards and panels must be nailed tightly.

Note: it is better to replace rotten boards, since the process that has begun under the skin will most likely not stop. It would be nice to additionally treat the sections of the walls that are problematic in this regard with an antiseptic.

Elements of the house that must be dismantled before finishing the house with siding

1 - prichelina, 2 - platbands, 3 - shutters, 4 - outer corner, 5 - wind boards, 6 - plank (transition) between the foundation and the walls of the house, 7 - external window sill.

You will have to remove all the platbands, if any - shutters, protruding window sills, as well as drainage and decorative elements around windows and doors.

When the listed parts are removed, using a long rail, plumb line or level, you can easily control how even the walls of your house are.

Vinyl siding panels have a thickness of no more than 1.1-1.2 mm and are not capable of carrying any significant load. Therefore, when they are mounted on a curved surface, the slightest unevenness will also appear on outside skins.

Note: at this stage, it turned out that the window openings were made by me once, to put it mildly, not strictly according to the level. Or maybe the foundation has sunk.

In order for the windows to be installed exactly in window openings, I had to remove the glass from the windows, cut the frames and window blocks in order to insert them evenly into the window openings.

Window block installation scheme

1 - wooden lining (slats), 2 - window frame, 3 - plumb, 4 - level

When aligning the window blocks, I placed pre-prepared slats under one of the sides, the length of which was equal to the width of the window block. The horizontal installation of window blocks was checked by level, and the vertical position with a plumb line.

Fragment of a wooden window frame

I also replaced the dowels in the joints of the window frame bars and reinforced them with metal corners.

After that, the window frames and blocks were primed and painted. After the paint was completely dry, I inserted the glass, and at the same time replaced the cracked glass.

You can get more detailed information about installing windows from the article and.

Sheathing and wall insulation

For new buildings made of wood, battens are usually not required. Siding can be mounted on any wooden walls, as well as on walls sheathed with chipboard, fiberboard, plywood and other similar materials. However, the walls of old buildings most often have noticeable irregularities.

On such walls it is necessary to install a crate of boards or slats. Do-it-yourself crate for siding is made of wooden slats with a section of 50x80 mm. Reiki attached to the walls with nails 100 mm long.

Timber batten siding

For horizontally oriented siding panels, the laths of the battens must be nailed (with a side of 50 mm) vertically at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other. They should also be installed around windows, doors and other openings or openings, at all corners, along the bottom and top of the panel mounting area.

Note: simultaneously with the installation of the crate, the wall can be additionally covered with insulation. To do this, I filled the space between the slats with 50 mm thick foam plates. But you can use not only polystyrene for wall insulation, there are many other types of insulation that everyone chooses at their discretion.

More detailed information about the insulation of the walls of the house can be found in the article.

All instructions recommend mounting the siding on galvanized nails. Quote:“Nails must be aluminum or galvanized with a head 0.9-1 cm in diameter. The stem of the nail must be 3 mm in diameter and long enough to penetrate the base to a depth of at least 2 cm.”

On reflection, I decided that it is more convenient to fasten the panels with screws - self-tapping screws. You can screw in a screw with a screwdriver (you can also just use a Phillips screwdriver), using a magnetic nozzle, you can use one hand, but to nail a nail, you need both. This was the decisive factor in favor of self-tapping screws.

Setting the starting strip

The installation scheme of the starting strip for the siding of a private house

I started installing the siding by installing the starting strip:

first found the lowest point of the old skin;
after using chalk and a building level (you can use twine and chalk), I applied a marking line 40 mm above the level of the old sheathing;
set the starting bar so that its top edge was located on the marking line, and attached it to the house - this installation work starting bars completed around the perimeter of the house.

Note: since we are talking about installing siding parts, we need to list the basic rules for its fastening (this applies to panels and fittings).

Vinyl siding is nailed so as not to interfere with its possible thermal expansion and contraction. To do this, you must always leave a gap of 5-6 mm between the end edge of the siding panel and J-planks, corners or other fittings. When installing panels in cold weather(up to -10 degrees) the thermal gap should be increased to 9-10 mm.

Installation options (nailing) of vinyl siding

Don't fasten the siding too tightly to the batten or wall! Do not hammer nails to the end! Leave a gap of approximately 1-1.5 mm between the head of the nail (or screw) and the vinyl panel. This is necessary for free expansion-compression and to prevent warping of the skin.

Gap options between a nail (or screw) head and a vinyl panel

Nails (screws) must be hammered into the middle of the oblong mounting hole, and not from the edge - this can subsequently lead to panel breakage. Nails are hammered in with a step of 30-40 cm. After nailing all the nails, the panels should move freely in one direction and the other horizontally within the width of the mounting holes.

Attention! Hammer nails should be strictly at right angles! Even a single bent nail, interfering with the free movement of the panel, can cause local "bloating" of the siding.

The panel to be installed must first be connected to the bottom panel (or to the starting strip) and pushed up until the “lock” snaps into place. After that, the panel can be nailed. At the same time, it must not be pulled or strongly pressed, it must hang on the attachment points without tension, while maintaining its natural shape. Too much tension can cause improper connection with other panels and parts. Both excessively tight fastening and dangling panels should be avoided.

When installing platbands, shutters, electrical wiring and other parts, holes in the siding must be drilled 5 mm larger than the diameter of the fasteners used. This will allow the panels to expand or contract freely with temperature fluctuations.

Installation of external corners

The outer corner is a detail that closes the end edges of the siding panels at the corners of the house and allows you to match the wall sheathing located in two mutually perpendicular planes.

The outer corner of the siding panel on the corner of the house

I set the outer corner so that at the top it did not reach the cornice or J-rail by 6 mm, and at the bottom its end protruded 8 mm below the level of the ledges of the starting strip.

Note: nails must be driven in the center of the existing mounting holes, leaving the part to expand - contract with temperature fluctuations. The distance between adjacent nails is from 20 to 40 cm.

Corner piece for fastening siding

Sometimes you need to close the upper or lower end of the outer corner installed on the wall. The covers needed for this can be made from pieces of J-strips with a length equal to twice the width of the outer corner.

Cover from a piece of J-Strip for the outer corner of the siding

The blanks prepared in this way, I bent and nailed to the wall, and then inserted the outer corners into them.

Installing J-Strips Around Window and Door Openings

J-Strip Installation Diagram around Window or Door Openings

To connect the wall cladding with siding panels to the window and door openings, around the latter, I installed J-strips. The most difficult thing here is to correctly form the corner joints of the vertical and horizontal slats. You can do this in the following way:

Joints of vertical and horizontal J-bars

First, in the bottom of the horizontal J-bar, installed above the window opening, I cut out an eyelet 2 cm long and folded it down. I did the same on the other side of this bar. Then the front bent part of the J-bar was cut at an angle of 45 °.

Connecting the corners of the J-Strap frame around a door or window opening

At the side J-bar of the frame in the bottom, I made a rectangular cutout 2 cm deep and connected the top and side bars. In the same way, I connected all the other corners of the frame.

Installation of siding panels

I installed the siding panels in rows from bottom to top. First, I wound the lower edge of the first panel over the ledge of the starting strip, and then nailed the upper edge to the wall. The installation of the next row began only when the installation of the previous one was completely completed.

All panels must stand freely, between their end edges and vertical parts (external corners and J-planks) it is necessary to leave gaps of at least 5-6 mm.

Docking panels with molding

If the dimensions of the panels installed horizontally are less than the width of the wall of the house, then they have to be increased in length.

Docking H-molding (profile)

I did this with the help of a special docking H-molding (profile), which I installed in the right place on the wall strictly parallel to one of the nearest corners of the house or some other vertical structure on the wall.

Docking siding panels "overlap"

Another way of joining panels is also allowed when they are extended in length - overlapping. In this case, each next panel should overlap the previous one in length by 2.5-3 cm, and the junction points should be spaced apart.

When installing short panels in narrow openings, such as between windows, I left the vertical J-strips unnailed on top so that when the panel was inserted, they could be slightly bent. I nailed these slats when the short panel was in place and secured.

On the one hand, the siding panels have a number of holes for fastening to the wall with nails and a protrusion of the locking part, which ensures the connection of the panels to each other. With another - longitudinal edge, bent inward, this bend is the counterpart of the castle. The panels are mounted overlapping - first, the locking part of the top panel is engaged with the protrusion on the bottom, and then the top panel is attached to the base (crate) with nails or self-tapping screws.

Scheme of installation of overlapping siding panels

Conclusion

I spent about 22,500 rubles - $ 650 on decorating the house with siding (the amount is indicated without taking into account the cost of insulation).

Note: the surface area of the walls and pediment sheathed with siding was 112 sq. m.

Preparatory work - minor repairs old sheathing, battens and wall insulation, it took me about 4 days, installation of siding panels - 3 days. AT total I spent 7 days doing the work of cladding the house with siding and wall insulation.

What happened? Let's look at the photo:

Photo of a house with old cladding

became

Photo of a house with new vinyl siding as decoration

Also, siding and the installation of an additional layer of insulation brought me another positive moment:

before finishing the house, per month at average temperature in winter - 10 degrees, I burned about 480 cubic meters. m of gas, then after finishing the walls of the house with siding and their insulation, gas consumption decreased to 380-390 cubic meters. m

so is siding reliable protection walls of the house from the effects of precipitation, which helps to increase the service life wooden structure Houses.

Attention! This article shows prices as of 2009.

– great material for house cladding. At its affordable cost, it has many positive operational and technical characteristics.

You are offered detailed instructions for self-installation of siding. The guide is universal. Following its provisions, you will be able to complete any finish that provides for installation on a crate: fiber cement, wood, metal, vinyl, etc.

Siding is best attached to a pre-mounted crate. We work in the following order.

The first stage - choose the material

The frame can be assembled from wooden beam or metal profile. Metal products are stronger and more durable. In addition, the metal crate is much easier to attach to an uneven base.

Learn and also familiarize yourself with the calculation algorithm with an emphasis on possible nuances.

Installation of profiles is carried out with a half-meter step. Hangers are used for wall mounting. This technique will allow leveling surface differences and fixing the frame elements in level.

Wooden crate is cheaper. When choosing this option, pay attention to the condition of the wood. It is prohibited to:

the material was exfoliated;
was deformed;
had bluish spots and traces of rot, etc.

The elements of the wooden crate must be impregnated with flame retardant and antiseptic. If the house is built of wooden elements, the walls should also be treated with the listed preparations.

The second stage - preparing the base

The crate is easiest to attach to a flat base. First of all, we remove any details that may interfere. These are all kinds of tiles, bars, platbands, gutters, etc.

The third stage - set the guides

Siding is best mounted horizontally. In this case, we fix the bars or profiles of the crate vertically.

To attach the guides to wooden walls, we use nails or self-tapping screws. If the house is built of concrete blocks or bricks, we fix it with dowels, having previously drilled holes for them in the wall of the house.

We level each rail.

Important! If you plan to do outdoor work, it is best to fix the siding crate after all insulation work has been completed. In this case, there will be two crates: for insulating materials and for cladding. In this case, the rails of the two frames should be placed parallel to each other.

You can, of course, try to lay insulating layers after attaching the siding sheathing, but this is not very convenient.

We mount J-profiles

The starting rails must be perfectly fixed, as the quality of the entire lining depends on the correctness of their installation.

First step. We take the level and find the lowest point on the crate. We step back from it up 50 mm and put a mark. To do this, we screw a self-tapping screw into the rail a little.

Second step. We consistently move around the building and continue to put marks with self-tapping screws to fix the starting profiles. We also screw self-tapping screws in the corners of the house.

Third step. We stretch the rope between the corner marks.

Fourth step. We mark on the rails the boundaries of the installation of corner profiles. We take the profile itself, apply it to the corner frame structure and put marks along the edges with a pencil.

Important! We leave a 1-centimeter gap between the profiles to compensate for temperature deformations.

We leave a gap between the starting guides and the nail strips.

In order to avoid a 6 mm setback, you can cut off parts of the nail strips so that they do not rest against the J-profile during temperature changes.

Important! Starting profiles must be mounted strictly horizontally! Correct deviations for as long as necessary.

If you install guides with deviations from the level, the siding will also warp. It will be extremely difficult to fix this in the future.

We mount external corner profiles

First step. We mark spotlights. We need to see where the edges of these elements will be in the future.

Second step. Attach the guide to the corner of the frame. We do this with a 3 mm gap to the soffit or roof. We fix the profile with self-tapping screws.

The lower border of the element is placed 0.6 cm below the edge of the starting profile.

Third step. We check the verticality of the installation. In the absence of deviations, we fix the bottom, and after that - the rest of the places. Experts do not advise placing fasteners in corner elements too often.

If the house is higher than 300 cm, the profiles will need to be superimposed one on top of the other. To do this, cut the top profile. As a result, a 9 mm gap should remain between the planks of the joined elements. When laying the elements, we maintain an overlap of 2.5 cm.

Important! We join the profiles at the same level on each side of the house.

If the plinth has a protruding structure, we shorten the profile so that a 6 mm gap remains between it and the plinth.

Helpful advice! Instead of a corner profile, it is allowed to install 2 J-elements (starting). This way you can save money. But this solution also has its drawback - the corner will not be as tight as when using a special corner profile. Deciding to use this method, pre-glue the wall around a similar angle with a strip of roll hydro insulating material.

We mount internal corner profiles

The order of installation of these elements does not have significant differences from the technology for arranging external corners - we leave an indent of 3 mm between the profile and the soffit, while lowering the lower end of the profile below the J-bar by 0.6 cm.

If there is a protruding plinth or other element from the bottom that stands out from the general level, then we also leave a 6 mm indent between it and the profile - it is impossible for the profile of the inner corner to rest against it.

There are 3 arrangement methods internal corners, see picture.

If the wall height is more than 300 cm, we perform profile splicing. The technology is the same as for the arrangement of external corners.

We leave a 9 mm indent between the planks, carefully trimming excess material. The overlap of the upper element on the lower one is 2.5 cm. We install the fasteners with a 4-centimeter step, placing them strictly in the center of the holes intended for this. The exception is the most top point. Here the fasteners must be installed at the top of the hole.

We mount the frames of the openings

For most inexperienced craftsmen, difficulties arise precisely at the stage of framing and doorways. The order of work will vary depending on how the openings are arranged in relation to the plane of the wall.

Openings in the same plane with the facade

In this case, we do the following.

First step. We perform waterproofing of openings.

Second step. We fasten platbands or J-profiles to the openings. We equip each opening using 4 platbands: a pair of vertical and a pair of horizontal.

Third step. We connect profiles.

To make the connection of platbands as accurate as possible, we do this:

The platband at the bottom is connected in exactly the same way, only the bridges will need to be cut and bent on the side elements for their further lining on the profile below.

Apertures recessed into the facade

When installing near-window profiles, we work in compliance with the same recommendations as when installing platbands, i.e. we create cuts on the profile corresponding to the depth of the opening, and then bend the bridges and insert them into the finishing elements.

Do not be too lazy to understand the principles of bending such bridges. We make them so that they cover the junction of the cladding elements. As a result, moisture will not be able to penetrate inside.

Installing the first panel

We start facing with the least noticeable wall of the building. So we can practice and work out all sorts of inaccuracies.

First step. We insert the first cladding panel into the corner profile and into the locking joint of the starting strip.

Important! We leave a 6 mm temperature gap between the first cladding element and the lower part of the corner profile lock.

Second step. We attach the panel to the crate.

It is important to observe the dimensions of technological indents. If the lining is carried out in warm weather, we maintain a 6 mm indent, if it is cold, we increase the gap to 9 mm. When installing trim panels, the indents can be reduced.

We build up panels

We build up the cladding elements with an overlap or with the help of an H-profile.

When fastening panels with an overlap, you must first shorten the locks facing panels and mounting frames, so that as a result the overlap is 2.5 cm long.

The installation of the H-profile is carried out similarly to the corner elements - at the top we retreat 0.3 cm from the soffit, from the bottom we lower it by 0.6 cm in relation to the starting profile.

Important! We leave a 6 mm indent between the H-profile and any obstacles on the houses.

Installing the rest of the siding

We continue to clad the house with siding. The technology of work is similar to the order of fastening the first panel.

Important! Every 2-3 rows, we check the horizontalness of the cladding using a level.

Having reached the opening, we remove the unnecessary piece of the panel falling on the opening.

We provide reliable fastening of panels with the help of "hooks". For this we need a punch.

We mount an additional finishing profile at the bottom of the opening. It will allow you to level the lining on the plane.

Mounting under the roof

Under roof structure fasten the J-profile.

We work in the following order.

First step. We measure the distance between the lower part of the lock of the finishing element and the lock of the penultimate facing panel.

Second step. Subtract from the measurement obtained 1-2 mm indent.

Third step. We mark the whole panel, cut off its upper part with a locking connection.

Fourth step. We create "hooks" at the top of the element with a 20 cm step. To do this, we make cuts and bend them to the front side.

Fifth step. We insert the trimmed element into the penultimate siding panel. With a slight upward movement, we snap the inserted element into the locking connection of the finishing profile.

We mount the pediment

We sheathe the pediment around the perimeter. All fasteners, except for the top, are installed in the center of the holes. The upper fastener is installed at the top of the hole. Sheathing can be done both with profiles for arranging internal corners, and with a starting profile.

Mounting procedure is the same as mounting wall panels. We cut the edges of the elements and connect them with the locks of the receiving profiles. Keep in mind the 6mm setback when mounting in warm weather and 9mm when working in winter.

We fasten the last element of the pediment sheathing directly through the panel material - this can only be done here.

Cladding completed.

Learn how, and also consider the calculations and step by step guide, from our new article.

In order for the paneling of the house to be as successful as possible, you need to know certain subtleties of performing such work. There is a list general recommendations for any siding, as well as separate tips for panels made from a specific material.

For different materials

Now you can do it yourself at the highest level.

Name (model)	Advantages	Length x width x thickness, mm	Quantity in a package, pcs
Vinyl Siding Kanada Plus	1. Coloring in dark tones performed using the "Cool Color" method (heat absorption), which involves the use of masterbatches. 2. Excellent appearance remains unchanged even when exposed to high and low temperatures, the range of which ranges from -50°C to +60°C. 3. Maintains shock resistance even if the ambient temperature drops to -20-60°C. 4. Not subject to microbiological corrosion (fungi, mold).	3660 x 230 x 1.1	20
Acrylic Siding "Kanada Plus"	Among the others useful qualities acrylic siding"Canada Plus" is worth highlighting: Increased resistance to direct ultraviolet rays; Excellent tolerance to acidic and alkaline solutions, as well as to various fats; Good washing tolerance with chemical detergents; High degree deformation resistance (perfectly tolerates temperatures up to 75 ° -80 ° C).	3660 x 230 x 1.1	20
Alta Siding - Vinyl Siding	"Alta-siding" is: one of the safest finishing materials on the market Russian market; frost resistance and the ability to maintain strength even at very low temperatures (from -20 to -60 ° C); resistance to significant temperature changes and impact external environment; durability: the service life of Alta-siding is up to 30 years; resistance to aggressive substances (to clean the siding, you can use detergents); non-susceptibility to infection by moldy fungi.	3660 x 230 x 1.1	20
facade metal siding INSI	Siding "INSI" is made of galvanized steel coated with a layer of polymer composition, which means it inherits all the advantages of this material: resistance to temperature extremes (-50°С - +80°С) and mechanical damage; long service life with preservation of original properties (about 50 years); environmental friendliness; incombustibility; possibility of mounting both horizontally and vertically; protection of the building from overheating (in the ventilated facade system); and when choosing one of two new colors (alder or rosewood) - a complete imitation of the appearance.	Length up to 6000, width up to 200, thickness 0.5	-

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself siding installation

Installing siding on the walls of the facade of the house can be done quickly and easily if you know some important features installation. Technology correct installation siding primarily provides careful preparation the base of the entire surface of the facade. Aligning the walls relative to the vertical level is the key to quick and proper installation of siding. In the article, we will consider some important features of installing siding with our own hands, and the video instruction below will clearly help you understand the nuances of installation.

Do-it-yourself siding installation features

Today to the most popular and budget materials for finishing the facade, vinyl and metal siding can be attributed. Installing vinyl or metal siding is quick and easy enough that you can do it yourself. Siding installation should always be carried out on a pre-prepared frame, consisting of dry and even wooden blocks ( a budget option), as well as on a metal profile crate.

Do-it-yourself siding installation technology

Experts recommend using dry materials as a material for installing battens for siding wooden blocks or metal profiles. The bars must be free of cracks and knots, be sure to be dry and even, and also not rotten. It is not recommended to use larch bars, because, firstly, they are heavy, uncomfortable, and secondly, self-tapping screws are poorly screwed into them and nails are hammered. An ideal and also economical option for bars is pine.
It is better to choose bars along the length of no more than 3 m, with such a length they are less susceptible to deformation during storage and transportation. The width of the bar should not be less than 30 mm, and the thickness should not be less than 25 mm. Ideally, it is better to use a bar of 30x40 mm, or 30x50 mm.
It is also possible from a metal profile. Galvanized steel profiles are perfectly flat and strong enough, so this is the best option for a subsystem, although such a crate will cost a little more, unlike wooden bars.
Basically, for the installation of battens for siding, the PP profile brand (galvanized ceiling profile) is widely used. The length of such a profile is 3 m, width 60 mm, with a height of 27 mm. Usually, the length of the profile is enough for the crate for cladding with siding of one-story buildings, and with a facade height of more than 3 m, the profiles are extended, and the profile must also be inserted under the sheathing of the gable part of the wall.

The bars are installed to the wall as follows:

Depending on the type of siding, metal or vinyl make the necessary markings on the wall. So for vinyl siding, the step between the bars of the crate is no more than 300-400 mm, and for metal siding at least 400-600 mm. Marking for the installation of suspensions for mounting rails is best done with a pencil or chalk using a profile or bar for this, as well as a building level.
For quick marking, draw marks with a suitable pitch on the lower part of the facade and, relying on them using a profile and a level, draw marks for installing hangers in the upper part of the wall. Repeat the operation on the next walls.
At the height of one bar or profile of 3 m, it is necessary to fix at least 4–5 hangers approximately every 50–60 cm.

IMPORTANT! Metal straight hangers for the installation of siding battens are used mainly for light type finishing materials (vinyl or metal siding) use, for example, such fasteners for facade cladding with heavy fiber cement panels for exterior finish home is inappropriate. In the case of heavy types of facing facade materials to fix the subsystem, use special metal brackets securely fixed to the wall.

To the wooden wall the suspension is fixed in the center of the marked line with two wood screws at least 30 cm long.
After that, the suspensions are bent in a U-shape and a profile is inserted into them.
Installation of all profiles should start from the installation of profiles at the corners of the wall. To do this, set the profile first in one corner by level, and then repeat the operation on the other.
Screw the self-tapping screws at the top and bottom of the corner profiles and, leaning on the fasteners, pull the construction control cord from below and above.

IMPORTANT! The cord is a control element, so when exposing all other profiles along it, try not to touch or knock down the lacing.

The crate is exposed over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe facade, now you can start installing the siding with your own hands.

Features of installing horizontal siding

Horizontal installation of siding panels is the preferred option. This type of installation is used almost everywhere, as it has good aesthetic performance, and also better protects the facade from atmospheric phenomena.
horizontally is necessary on a crate mounted vertically. The starting profile in this case is also fixed in horizontal position, departing from the base 1–2 cm, (depending on the evenness of the foundation itself relative to the horizontal level).
You should install the siding panel with your own hands from the very bottom, hooking its lower edge to the initial profile and carefully screw it to the crate without tension, while the panel must be pushed almost back to back (retreating 3-5 mm) into the corner or connecting profile. This is necessary in order to compensate for the expansion and contraction of the panel during temperature changes, thereby preventing its deformation.

Vertical siding installation

To install siding vertically, you will need horizontal mounting accessories. At the same time, the siding panel will have to be fixed from top to bottom, starting from the corner (corner profiles are installed before the siding is installed) into the groove of which it is necessary to push the bottom edge of the panel. The starting rail is not needed for this installation. Self-tapping screws should be screwed into the profiled holes of the siding panel in the upper part of the slot (not completely), leaving a small gap of about 1–1.5 mm, compensating for temperature effects.

How to properly install siding on a metal or wooden crate

Siding can be installed both on a wooden subsystem and on a metal one. Siding installation technology on wooden bars involves the use of wood screws with rare carvings of at least 30 cm in length. In rare cases, nails are used as a fastener (not recommended).
To metal crate siding is installed on metal screws with a drilling or sharp tip, while the length of the screw should be a minimum of no more than 20 mm, so it is better, faster and more reliable to screw the screw into the metal profile.

IMPORTANT! Do-it-yourself self-tapping screws for installing siding with your own hands should be galvanized, so you will prevent rusty smudges on the surface of the siding cladding.

Siding fastening technology provides preset fittings of all additional accessories and elements. Complete with siding, you must purchase start and finish strips, connecting profiles, corner elements, sloping slats, spotlights. Only after all additional elements are installed, you can proceed with the installation of the siding itself.

Finally

For various firms, it can reach 500-1000 rubles. Therefore, it is advisable to take steps to do-it-yourself siding installation and save a lot of money at the same time. The money saved can be invested in the purchase of finishing materials or insulation.

In fact, there is nothing difficult in installing siding with your own hands. All you need is a little desire and a little bit of optimism, and also have a pencil, tape measure, level, screwdriver and grinder on hand.

Do-it-yourself siding installation: video instruction

In order to quickly and minimal cost repair the facade of the building, choose the material, the installation of which can be performed without the involvement of specialists. One such material is siding. Its varieties and how to work with it will be discussed further.

In favor of choosing such a material for wall cladding, its positive characteristics speak.

Environmental safety: the siding is chemically resistant, does not emit substances harmful to health and the environment.
Fire safety. Wood siding is treated with flame retardants; vinyl siding does not support combustion.
Resistant to fungus, mold and decay. Antiseptic treatment increases the life of wood siding.
Siding is not afraid of temperature changes, does not deform, provided correct execution installation.
Aesthetic appeal: siding successfully imitates wooden frame. After facing the walls become perfectly smooth. You can hide behind the panels electrical cables, water pipes. A wide palette of colors and shades allows you to choose a material that is combined with other objects located in the backyard.

Manufacturers offer siding different colors and sizes

What is needed for wall cladding with siding

There are the following types of siding:

vinyl;
metal;
fiber cement;
wooden.

All of the listed materials are attached to the crate, mounted from wooden slats or a metal profile.

Tip: it is better to choose a metal profile for the device of the crate. It allows you to create a stronger and more durable frame. This profile is easier to attach to the wall.

If the choice of material for the crate is in favor of wooden slats, it is necessary to exclude wood with the following defects:

cyanosis;
curvature;
traces of damage by insects;
rottenness;
delamination of material and cracks.

Before installation, wooden slats are treated with an antiseptic.

In order to hide all the irregularities of the base, the crate is fixed at a certain distance from it, using suspensions.

Lathing installation

Lathing from metal profiles

The technology provides for the following steps.

We prepare the base. It is necessary to dismantle the elements of the facade decoration that have become unusable: wooden shutters, platbands, falling off plaster and facing tiles. This is necessary so that the crate is attached to a solid foundation.
We apply markings on the base at the points of attachment of the vertical elements of the crate.
Suspensions are attached to the base using dowel-nails or self-tapping screws (selected depending on the base material).
Installation of vertical guides after marking. Vertical wooden slats or metal profiles are screwed to the hangers with self-tapping screws. We mount the crate with an installation step of 0.5 m.

Scheme of lathing from wooden slats

Guides are installed subject to the rules.

Start the installation from the corner - on both sides at a distance of 50-70 mm. This is necessary for mounting the corner profile.
The position of the guides is controlled by the level: it must be strictly vertical. Small (up to 3-5 degrees) deviations to the sides are allowed.
A guide is also installed near the corners of window and door openings, as well as arches and niches.
For gutters, we additionally install guides.

Mounting rails on hangers

Your attention is a video on how the walls are insulated.

Installing the start profile for siding installation

In order to fix the bottom panels, we mount jprofiles (starting ones). They must be located strictly horizontally, since the quality of the wall surface depends on this. The work is being done in stages.

The starting profile is attached to the vertical rails

We determine the horizontal from which the installation of panels will begin. We set aside 5 cm from it and put a mark with a marker on a vertical guide.
Using the building level, we make the appropriate marks on all corners of the house.
Between the marks we stretch the cord and make marks around the entire perimeter of the house.
On the vertical guides we mark the position of the corner connecting profiles. To do this, we temporarily set the profile to the place of attachment and outline its boundaries with a marker.
Set aside 6 millimeters from each border of the corner profiles to the sides or cut off the nail strips (they are located at the edges).
Adhering to the marked boundaries, we attach the starting profile to vertical elements frame.

Installation of the starting and corner profile

Attention: in order to avoid deformation of the profiles as a result of temperature difference, a gap of 10 mm must be left between adjacent elements.

Installation of corner profiles

The work is done in the following order.

We determine the level of fastening of the roofing filing (soffits). This is necessary to indicate the upper limit of the corner profiles.
Stepping down from the 3 mm line marked with a marker, we install the corner profiles and fix them in the upper part to the guide screws. We mount the outer corner profiles so that their lower edges fit into the groove of the j-profiles.
Using a level or plumb line, we correct the position of the corner profiles: it must be strictly vertical. We screw the screws into the nail strips of the profiles along their entire height. The distance between the screws is about 20 cm (but not more than 40 mm).
We lengthen the profiles if the height of the corners exceeds 3 m. To do this, we cut the nail strips of the lower profile so that the upper profile is superimposed on it with an overlap of 25 mm. Cutting is done with metal shears.

Angular profile extension

Tip: for economic reasons, the corner profile can be replaced by joining two j-profiles. The loss of tightness is eliminated with the help of a roll of insulating material, which is glued in the corner.

We mount internal corner profiles by analogy with external elements. We screw in the screws in increments of 20 mm and always in the upper and lower parts (near the edges).

How openings are framed with siding

Openings in the same plane with the facade are made in compliance with the following technology.

Waterproofing material is laid.
We mount the frames of the openings using j-profiles.
We carry out connection of profiles.

Making openings

In order for the corners of the openings to be of high quality, we perform the following.

On all sides of the upper profiles, we cut off the vertical sections so that horizontal sections remain (for the width of the profile).
We bend the horizontal sections down: it will close the hole in the lower profile and prevent the penetration of rain moisture.
We cut off sections of plastic on the side profiles so that they do not interfere with docking with the casing or window frame.
We connect profiles.

The connection of profiles with cashing (window frame) in the lower part of the opening is carried out similarly.

It is allowed to finish the corners of openings and arches using the starting profile

If the openings are recessed into the facade, we use similar techniques in their design. It is important that the foldable bridges block the path of rain moisture to the inside of the cladding elements.

Tip: the slopes of windows deepened by no more than 200 mm are recommended to be drawn up using window trims.

Siding installation technology

Rules for installing the first siding panel

Using the advice of siding experts, we begin work with wall cladding, the most hidden from view. This is necessary in order to learn how to fasten the material correctly and avoid further mistakes. We adhere to the following rules.

Installation diagram of the first panel

We insert the siding panel simultaneously into the groove of the corner and starting profiles. It is important that between the panel does not rest against the grooves, but is fixed with a gap of 6 mm.
The size of the gap may vary depending on the ambient temperature: during summer installation, 6 mm is sufficient, in winter, a distance of at least 9 mm is required.

Continuation of siding installation

We mount the rest of the siding by analogy with the first panel. In doing so, we observe the following rules.

Periodically, using the level, we control the position of the panels: it must be strictly horizontal.
We cut off excess sections when facing a wall with openings.
We use a punch and hooks to securely connect the panels.
Install finishing bar at the bottom of the opening, lying in the same plane with the wall.

We install the panels from the bottom up, controlling their horizontal position.

How to splice siding panels

In the event that it is necessary to use siding trimmings for facing less critical walls, we build up the panels in any of the following ways.

Siding panel splicing options

We use the H-profile. We select panels of the same length in such a way as to join them with a common connecting H-profile. When installing siding panels in the groove, we leave a minimum compensation gap of 6 mm.
We connect with an overlap. To do this, it is necessary to cut panel fragments (fixing frames and locks) so that when two elements are joined, an overlap of 25 mm is formed.

Splicing panels is desirable to perform on an inconspicuous section of the wall

Installation of siding panels under the roof

Installation of siding under the roof is associated with the problem of designing the edge of the panel cut to the width. The installation of the top panel is carried out according to the technology described below.

Installation of the top panel under the roof

We fasten the j-profile horizontally to the roofing filing with the groove down.
We measure the distance from the locking groove of the reinforced penultimate panel to the upper part of the j-profile.
Subtract 2 mm from the result.
According to the final size, we cut the top panel from the side of the lock connection.
To keep the cut edge of the siding well in the groove of the j-profile, we cut it in several places and bend it about 10 mm at a right angle. Such hooks should be every 200 mm along the entire length of the panel.
We install the prepared panel in the lock of the lower element and, having slightly bent, we wind it into the upper profile.

Facing the gable with siding

We mount the pediment according to the following algorithm.

We fasten the starting or j-profile around the perimeter. If the filing is also framed with siding or vinyl spotlights, in the upper part of the gable the starting or j-profile can be replaced with a corner one.
Cutting the left and right edges of the panels at an angle corresponding to the angle of the roof slopes, we mount them according to the above technology. We install self-tapping screws in the middle of the slots. We observe the rule governing the size of the compensation gaps.
We fix the top of the last (top) panel with a self-tapping screw directly through the material. We close the cap of the self-tapping screw with a plastic plug, matched by color.

Scheme of mounting panels when finishing the gable

General rules for installing siding

Regardless of what type of siding and what material it is made of, it is recommended to follow certain rules during installation.

Self-tapping screws are twisted in the center of the holes of the mounting strips.
The screws are not tightened tightly so as not to deform the panel and retain the ability to compensate for thermal expansion.
Panels are mounted from the bottom up.
A compensation gap is left between adjacent elements to prevent thermal deformations.
For fixing wood siding, zinc-coated hardware is used. This is necessary to avoid wood decay.
Wall cladding of newly constructed buildings is carried out after their shrinkage.

Your attention to a visual demonstration technological process- video on how to install vinyl siding, using the advice of a specialist.

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