kitchen worktop should answer the most high requirements. It is made of a wear-resistant material that is not susceptible to hot and resistant to mechanical influences. How to make a countertop, in this article, FORUMHOUSE users tell and show.

concrete surface

You can combine impressive appearance and strength in a concrete countertop. There are several options for its manufacture. One is to make a formwork and a frame so that later it can be mounted into the table top hob and sink. To do this, with the help of tin strips, an isolated contour is created into which concrete will not fall. Then the self-made base of the product is reinforced and the solution is poured.

Another option is to make a new product based on the old one: it is washed, dried and polished well. Then, an aluminum border and corners are attached to the liquid nails to the ends. A day after assembling the prepared base, you can pour concrete mix.

To assemble a concrete countertop, it is better to take a polymer cement mixture for self-levelling screeds. She will create flat surface with small pores.

If a decorative layer is planned from above, the concrete mixture is not poured to the top: it should not reach the top edge of the planks by about 10 mm. When the solution is completely dry (after about two days), you can start decorating - tiles, marble chips, etc.

How to make a countertop made of chipboard and drywall for the kitchen

Forum member shurigin replaced the cap kitchen table from laminated chipboard, which could not withstand the dampness in the washing area, onto two sheets of moisture-resistant plasterboard Giprok, reinforcing them with a mesh between them. Then I glued the tiles and in some places treated with sealant.

SlobalWS has equipped the kitchen from scratch several times and knows perfectly how to make a countertop from improvised materials. Since the prices for finished products were not encouraging, they were looking for alternative options. After thinking everything through, I came to the conclusion that it is best to make a tabletop with your own hands, and here are the materials: plywood, liquid nails, tiles or porcelain tiles and grouts. For the first time, for the manufacture of countertops, he used a 40x50 timber and ordinary tiles. The tree was fastened to the floor with metal corners and dowels - to the wall. I put plywood on top, screwing it with self-tapping screws (flush). Thus, the forum member made a flat surface for laying tiles.

The next time the owner decided to make supports for the table top from light sheets of laminated chipboard. The tabletop also lay on a beam that ran along the perimeter of the wall. 15 mm plywood sawn to size according to own drawings. Attached with liquid nails. I glued floor porcelain tiles on top (there were no traces of either a drill or scissors on it). It was also used to assemble the edging.

Price homemade design : chipboard - 1200 rubles, plywood - 680 rubles, bar - 200 rubles, liquid nails, fasteners and corners - 1300 rubles. TOTAL 3380 rubles were spent on the product (excluding the cost of porcelain stoneware).

ANDREUS12 made homemade frame from a bar 40x40. Attached with screws to the walls and floor. I put sheets of moisture-resistant drywall on the frame. Tiles cut with a conventional tile cutter horizontal surfaces put on tile glue, and on vertical ones - on liquid nails. The seams between the drywall were rubbed with alabaster, between the tiles - with grout. The surfaces of the homemade plastered with putty and sanded for painting. The do-it-yourself kitchen worktop turned out not quickly, but quite budgetarily: most of the materials - drywall, timber and grout were left over from other works, only tiles and glue were bought, he made the drawings himself, "on the knee".

On our FORUMHOUSE website you can find out what else: the topic contains photographs, installation diagrams and drawings different types countertops, cabinets, kitchen cabinets, tables, etc. Read the fascinating comments of our experienced users homemade kitchen furniture!

According to the materials of the participants of the forum "House and Dacha"

Amateur sports can not only diversify leisure time, but also benefit health. Currently, ping pong is very popular among children and adults. Wanting to master this game, you need to take care of the availability of a specialized tennis table, the manufacture of which with your own hands will help save a decent amount of money.

How to make a ping pong table with your own hands

Currently, there is a wide range of ping-pong table models on the market, however, a do-it-yourself table can compete with most of them. The designs of such products are simple and do not require the use of complex technological methods. And the preliminary purchase of high-quality materials will make it possible to produce a product suitable for use both at home and in outdoor conditions.

Before starting the manufacture of such a table, you need to decide which design will be more acceptable to you. Ping pong tables can be folding and stationary. Last option the best way suitable for outdoor installation.

And folding models allow you to save usable space when the game becomes irrelevant. When deciding in advance on the place where the table will be installed, it should be remembered that there must be enough space around it for the players to move freely. The area of ​​​​such a space should be 5x8 m.

Flooring deserves special attention. It is desirable to give the advantage to a solid and even anti-slip version. For this purpose, a floor made of bitumen or concrete is excellent. No less effective wooden decking placed on a level and solid surface.

Table top dimensions

In accordance with worldwide standards, classic table for ping-pong should have a length of 2740 mm and a width of 1525 mm, with standard height from the floor 760 mm. However, it is possible to make a table with other dimensional characteristics, given individual requirements and the area of ​​​​the space intended for its installation. For teenagers, the height of such a product can be from 600 to 700 mm. The dimensions of the mini-table are 2440x12200 mm, and in some cases even 110x61 mm. The thickness of the tabletop of such a product used within the club, according to generally accepted standards, should be equal to 22 mm, while for professional game you will need a countertop with a thickness of 25 to 28 mm. And for amateur tennis, a plate with a thickness of 16–19 mm is quite suitable.

What materials can be used to make

When choosing materials for a do-it-yourself table, you can stop at sheet plywood, OSB and chipboard. Each of them will be able to provide the required rebound height of a standard ball falling from a height of 30 cm, equal to 23 cm, as specified in generally accepted standards.

Plywood

There is currently a wide range of plywood sheets on the market, corresponding to the following dimensions:

• 1525 x 1525 mm;
• 1525 x 1300 mm;
• 1525 x 1475 mm;
• 1475 x 1474 mm.

From this material, you can make a folding tabletop, consisting of two halves, by trimming to a given size on only one side. In addition, the plywood surface does not require additional processing which will save time and money. However, when buying plywood sheets, it is advisable to give preference to goods of grades I and II marked "Sh1", indicating the presence of a polished surface and sufficient moisture resistance.

A plywood countertop has a number of disadvantages, one of which is its sagging. It is for this reason that this material is best used in the manufacture of non-separable tables, on a rigid box-shaped base, equipped with struts. Boards are perfect for making such a support. As fastening of a plywood table top to the base, you can use self-tapping screws installed along the contour of the product in increments of 100–150 mm. At the same time, it is desirable to putty their heads.

Another disadvantage of a plywood table is the sluggish, albeit correct, rebound of the ball. To correct the situation, painting the surface of the countertop will help. acrylic paint on the water based applied in 2-3 layers. Such processing will simultaneously increase the moisture resistance of the product. However, before applying a layer of paint, it is necessary to impregnate the plywood sheets with a water-polymer emulsion on both sides.

Chipboard

Choosing to make a ping pong table chipboard, pay attention to its following sizes, optimally suitable for such a product:

• 2750 x 1830 mm;
• 2750 x 1750 mm;
• 2750 x 1500 mm

The quality of this material largely depends on the brand of the manufacturer, but in general it is quite capable of meeting existing requirements. By purchasing a sheet with dimensional characteristics of 2750x1500 m, you are buying an almost finished worktop suitable for a stationary structure. At the same time, you can choose a laminated sheet in blue or Green colour which eliminates the need for painting.

Such material, with a thickness of 16 mm or more, is very heavy, which is ideal for making a strong and massive tennis table. If it is necessary to adjust the dimensional characteristics of the chipboard sheet, you can use the services of material sellers who can trim according to the dimensions you specified, as well as perform trimming. Buying chipboard will cost more than buying plywood sheets, however, the durability of this material is higher.

Laminated plywood

When creating ping-pong tables with your own hands, you can also use laminated plywood, which eliminates the possibility of deformation during operation. This material, made on the basis of waterproof birch plywood, is not combustible, and is also resistant to a number of mechanical damages. As a laminate in the production of such products, melamine is used with subsequent processing. In addition, laminated plywood has a rich colors, which will also help save on painting. Standard sheet sizes allow you to make both solid and folding tabletops.

High-quality plastic is used as an edge for this material, however, the material itself is not crumbly at all. The edge line of the field can be drawn with masking tape, and the demarcation lines are best done with acrylic paint, which will not be erased during long period time. A tennis table made of laminated plywood can be placed outdoors. During the game, the rebound of the ball from the surface of such a table will be ideal. The cost of this material cannot be classified as cheap, however, the money spent will correspond high level quality of your future table.

fiberglass

Another one of universal materials, which can be useful in the production of ping-pong tabletops, is fiberglass, sheets of which can be purchased at specialized construction stores. When choosing, it is desirable to give preference to sheets with a thickness of 10 mm, the color of which can be any. Application-Based modern technologies, fiberglass has enviable strength and low weight. A table equipped with such a tabletop will become all-weather, as the material is designed for use in a wide temperature range. Products made from it are insured against decay processes, and also differ in enviable resistance to mechanical damage and deformation. Among the features of this material can also be attributed to its incombustibility. The cost of fiberglass is quite high, but it is completely justified taking into account the listed qualities.

Composite aluminum

In some cases, aluminum is used to make ping pong tables. Such tabletops correspond to the characteristics of semi-professional tables, the plate thickness of which is 22 mm. Outwardly, such material resembles pressed chipboard and can be used outdoors without fear of deformation and mechanical damage. There is a myth that the volume bounce from aluminum tables quite high. However, this is an erroneous opinion. Such all-weather tables are very practical, and are able to fully meet the expectations of their owners. The cost of the material in this case is very acceptable, however, such a table will still cost more than a product equipped with a plywood top.

Stationary ping pong tables designed for outdoor use are best made from weatherproof materials that can withstand change weather conditions. However, as a protection against rainfall, preventing the surface of the tabletop from getting wet, you can use an awning water-repellent material or durable rolled polyethylene.

Drawings and step-by-step instructions for making do-it-yourself ping-pong tables

Indoor table model

To make a wooden tennis table with your own hands, the model of which is best suited for indoor installation, you will need the following materials:

• board 25 x 100, length 1050 mm - 6 pcs.;
• board 30 x 100, length 2200 mm - 2 pcs.;
• timber 50 x 50, length 750 mm (for legs) - 6 pcs.;
• bar 30 x 50, length 850 mm (for underframe) - 4 pcs.;
• adjustable furniture leg - 4 pcs.;
• studs or bolts M8, length 120–125 mm - 12 pcs.;
• nuts and washers M8 - 24 sets;
• wood screws;
• sandpaper.

In this case, it would be desirable to prepare in advance such tools as:

• hacksaw;
• chisel;
• screwdrivers;
• drill or screwdriver;
• drill with a diameter of 8 mm;
• wrenches 12 x 13 mm;
• marking tool (pencil, tape measure, carpenter's square).

The proposed version of the design of the ping-pong table consists of a tabletop made according to the specified dimensions,

three support legs

and two longitudinal bars.

The parameters of each of the parts are similarly indicated in the drawings.

1. Initially, you need to prepare the tabletop canvases, as well as create all the necessary details, based on the information indicated in the drawings. In this case, the grooves located on the longitudinal beam and having a cross section of 50x100 mm should fit as tightly as possible into the reciprocal grooves located on the support legs.
2. Then you should assemble the support legs. To do this, furniture legs with adjustment should be attached to the bars with a section of 50x50 mm, specially designed for them, using nuts and studs.
3. After that, it is necessary to assemble the frame, which involves inserting the longitudinal bars into the grooves of the legs from above.
4. After completing this stage, it is necessary to securely attach bars with a section of 30x50 mm to the countertop using self-tapping screws.
5. We install a tabletop on the resulting frame, fixing its position relative to the longitudinal bars. Bolts can be used as fasteners, having previously drilled longitudinal bars together with bars with a section of 30x50, or self-tapping screws.

After completion of the work, you will receive something like this finished product.

Collapsible tennis table model

To create another option collapsible model do-it-yourself tennis table you will need:

• Sanded plywood 1525x1525x12 mm - 2 pcs.
• Edged timber 50x50x3000 mm - 5 pcs.
• Metal brackets for attaching legs - 4 pcs.
• Self-tapping screws 5x89 - 38 pcs.
• Self-tapping screws 3.5x49 - 45 pcs.
• Bolts for attaching brackets to legs - 4 pcs.
• Wood preservative.
• Wood putty, enamel for painting countertops (matt green, or blue, black).
• Aerosol white enamel
  And the following tools:
• Hacksaw.
• Welding machine.
• Drill, drill for iron.
• Spatula, roller, paint brush.
  In this case, the manufactured table will correspond to the following dimensional characteristics:
• Table height from floor covering to the grid - 760 mm.
• Table cover length - 2740 mm.
• Table cover width - 1525 mm.

And in the presented drawing you can also get acquainted with the parameters of the installed grid.

This design assumes the presence of an easily removable tabletop, which requires special brackets that provide the ability to quickly disassemble the table, and will act as reliable fasteners. For people who are far from working with metal, such products can be ordered in locksmith workshops.

Assembly

1. After marking the bars, it is necessary to assemble the support frame, fixing it with self-tapping screws.
2. Then we mount brackets to the corners of the frame, which can stretch and hold the corners of the frame.
3. Now you should fit the existing legs to the mounts, by removing excess wood. However, at the same time, it is necessary to create conditions for inserting an additional plate, the task of which will be to distribute and strengthen the tension from the bolt. Since the brackets will be made by hand, each of them will have slight differences. For this reason, each of the stands used will need to exactly match the parameters of its nest. To avoid confusion, it is desirable to number the legs and brackets.
4. Then you should install a beam in the nests and attach it with bolts to the brackets. After that, you can put the resulting platform on the legs, firmly screwed to the frame.
5. We create holes, the size of which allows you to set the hats of the hardware flush with the surface of the plate.
6. We disassemble the resulting structure, after which we fasten the cover equipped with ready-made holes for self-tapping screws to the frame located on the floor.

Painting

Drawing of a folding table tennis table model

Among table tennis fans, folding table models are especially popular, allowing you to start the game process even in the absence of a partner. You can make such a table with your own hands, based on the drawing below.

However, in this drawing, the type-setting tabletop is made of boards, which is not very successful and practical option. As a material for its manufacture, you can use plywood or any other option described in this article. This will eliminate the need to install additional fastener lines, without compromising the strength of the structure.

To create such a model of a ping-pong table, you can use wooden elements. However, a simpler solution would be to create a frame using corners made of steel or duralumin. At the same time, it is better to weld steel corners, and to fasten duralumin elements, use screws with triangular scarves made of metal, the thickness of which is from 2 to 2.5 mm.

To provide the frames with the required rigidity, it is desirable to strengthen them with the help of cross bars made of corners. To connect the frames, you can use piano or ordinary hinges, which should be drowned in shields. In the side surfaces of the frames, you need to make holes for attaching the table legs and platform struts.

The platform is based on:

• four struts,
• four furniture rollers,
• two support,
• two carts.

Carts are made of boards with a thickness of 20 to 25 mm. To create struts, you will need boards 60 mm wide and 20 mm thick. And the base should be made of boards 90 mm wide and 20 mm thick. Furniture casters can be picked up and bought in specialized stores.

For the legs you will need boards 80x20 mm. Their fastening to the frame must be hinged, made on the basis of the use of bolts with wing nuts. This will allow you to fold them if necessary.

1. On the legs, mark the holes for the bolts by drawing center lines along each of them.
2. It is desirable to strengthen the upper parts of the legs with metal plates, and equip the holes with bushings for more reliable fixation.
3. For alignment playing field it is recommended to install the thrust bearings on each of the legs. To do this, use an M-10 or M12 nut and grind a bolt under it.
4. Then it is necessary to press it from the leg of the structure and screw in the bolt.
5. The legs must be fastened in pairs with slats 60x20 mm.
6. And then install the countertop made from the material of your choice. Self-tapping screws or long screws can be used as fasteners.
7. Paint the table top desired color, then mark the playing field.

Features to consider when making tennis table legs

Tennis tables designed for outdoor use are best made without the use of adjustable furniture legs. When installed on the ground, such legs will get stuck in it, and when installed on a paved surface, they lack the adjustment limit. best material in the manufacture supporting structure in this case it will be metal. A structure equipped with these legs will stand firmly on the ground and can be leveled by simply pushing the legs into the ground. it the best option for a folding table.

In some cases, it is very advisable to make the base of the table in the form of a "goat" made of wooden beam, With additional installation two bars or boards on top, which eliminates the occurrence of countertop deflection.

The design of the supporting "goats"

The dimensions of the goats can be any, provided that their overall width should be less than the width of the countertop by about 300 m.

To calculate the height of the "goat", a formula is used, according to which the thickness of the table top plate should be subtracted from 760 mm, and then the height of the timber placed under it should be subtracted.

Other types of bases are also used for outdoor tennis tables.

Self-manufacturing backgrounds is not too difficult. Properly selected materials and tools will help to realize your dream, eliminating the need for large expenses. Fascinating activities ping-pong games will help to keep an excellent physical shape and bring a lot of positive emotions to people of different ages.

A do-it-yourself plywood table is a convenient, stylish, reliable and inexpensive design to manufacture. Even a beginner can make a plywood table at home. The design may have a standard or original design The possibilities are limited only by the imagination of the master.

Some features of working with plywood

Plywood is a soft and easy-to-work material that is ideal for assembling tables that do not experience significant stress. Sheet array has maximum strength. Most often, a plywood table is covered with stain or varnish, with the exception of kitchen furniture, on which the cutting is performed food products.

plywood table ir made from a sheet will have more high strength than a similar product assembled from scraps. This is true even for those cases when the trimmings are connected to each other with waterproof wood glue.

best material to assemble the table, plywood of the first grade Sh2, sanded on both sides, is considered. There are almost no surface defects on it. Particular attention should be paid to the water resistance class. So, FC plywood can only be used indoors, so written, computer tables. But the FSF is used to assemble furniture that is located both indoors and outdoors.

If the furniture will be exposed to adverse external conditions(wet weather, temperature extremes, chemicals), it is best to use a laminated material, it has a higher operational stability than its standard counterpart.

According to experts, birch plywood has the optimal ratio of strength and ease of processing. It is the one most often used in furniture production. The thickness of the material for the manufacture of countertops must be at least 20 mm.

Principles of assembling a plywood table

The functionality and durability of the finished product is determined not only by the quality of the material, but also by the correctness of the carpentry work. If the structure is assembled from plywood scraps, then installation can begin only after the glued sheet has completely dried. In this case, excess glue must be immediately removed from the surface so as not to spoil the appearance of the finished product.

It is very important to correctly execute the template, which is then transferred to the plywood sheet. If the design will have complex shape, then you need to correlate the capabilities of the jigsaw with the dimensions of the sawn elements. The tabletop should be perfectly symmetrical, be sure to leave allowances for subsequent grinding and removal of sharp corners. In the process of grinding, the surface must be made perfectly flat - without tears, burrs and other defects.

It is important not only to process the material with high quality, but also to securely fix the structural elements. To do this, it is recommended to use wood screws and metal corners (if necessary). In order to prevent cracking of the material during the process of screwing in the screws, it is recommended to pre-drill holes that will be slightly (about 2 mm) smaller than the diameter of the screws. This will not only reduce the risk of damage to parts, but also simplify the workflow.

To increase the reliability of fixing parts of the product, you can additionally use wood glue. In this case, the work is carried out as follows: the parts to be joined are ground to perfect smoothness, cleaned of dust, lubricated with glue, pressed tightly against each other, fixed with clamps and left in this position until completely dry, and then fastened with self-tapping screws.

Before assembling the table, it is necessary to make drawings of the future product. You can also choose ready-made schemes and adjust them to the required dimensions. Making furniture without drawings is fraught with errors, which are then extremely difficult, and sometimes even impossible to fix.

Making a table of standard design

We will talk about how to make a plywood table at home in this section. Let's assemble the simplest product, it is versatile and can be used in any room (office, kitchen, living room) and even in the courtyard of a summer cottage. To work, you will need tools: a tape measure, a pencil, a jigsaw, a drill, a screwdriver and a building corner, as well as materials: waterproof plywood, self-tapping screws, glue, sandpaper and furniture plugs.

Even the most simple design you need to make according to the scheme, so with the help of a pencil and tape measure we transfer the drawing to the material. We start work with the manufacture of the table cover: we mark a rectangle on the material the right sizes, and then we cut out the part with a jigsaw or manual circular saw. After that, the edges of the part are processed with a grinder or sandpaper. This operation is performed in order to remove burrs from the edges of the product, which can later cause injuries.

Then, in the same way, you need to cut and grind the end walls (that is, the legs), as well as the inner wall of the table. The next step is to assemble the structure. First of all, you need to connect the legs to the inner wall. In the figure you can see where the fasteners should be placed. Using a tape measure, you need to measure, and then mark with a pencil the corresponding points on the sheets of plywood blanks. Then holes are drilled at these points with a drill. The drill diameter should be slightly smaller than the thickness of the fasteners used. Holes are made so that the material does not crack during assembly.

The table cover is placed upside down, and the lower part of the product is screwed to it. To make the structure more reliable, the elements can be additionally glued before being connected with self-tapping screws. Also, some craftsmen strengthen the joints of parts with the help of furniture corners. So that the caps of the self-tapping screws do not spoil the appearance of the table, they can be deepened into the wood, and covered with furniture plugs or putty on top.

Creative puzzle table

A plywood table can be not only standard, rectangular, but also very original - such as this model, which is assembled without a single fastener. For work, you will need two sheets of birch plywood 30-35 mm thick and 2500x750 and 1500x1500 mm in size. Also, the master needs to stock up on a jigsaw, grinder, sandpaper, finishing materials, PVA glue (if the design is non-separable).

The dimensions indicated on the drawing can be changed in any direction depending on the wishes of the customer. The first step is to mark up the details. Elements A and B are identical to each other along the contour, their only difference is the location of the assembly grooves. It is recommended that you first make a single template from whatman paper, and then mark it directly on the sheet.

The stops of the grooves must be placed on the same line (highlighted in red in the figure), their width, as well as the height of the groove protrusions in upper parts parts must match the thickness of the plywood. Then you need to cut and process the elements with maximum accuracy. The stability of the product depends on the quality of these works. All parts of the parts, including the ends, should be sanded and varnished.

After that, a do-it-yourself plywood countertop should be cut out. To make the circle as even as possible, you can use a simple design that replaces the compasses: a nail is installed in the middle of the future circle, a rope is tied to it, and a pencil is tied to the opposite end of the rope (at a suitable distance). Then a circle is drawn with a pencil.

The final stage of work is assembly. Parts A and B are connected in a groove, and on top, on the groove ledges, a tabletop is put on. If the fasteners protrude above the surface of the cover, then they must be leveled with a grinder. The details are then covered finishing layer varnish. The product is ready!

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Do-it-yourself laminate countertops

We renovated our kitchen last summer. They did everything themselves. Wardrobes bought from IKEA. We wanted to buy 3 solid granite countertops and order their installation.
But the local company broke the price of almost 500,000 rubles.

I decided to ditch the granite and make the countertops myself. Looking ahead, I’ll say that they cost me only 23 thousand rubles, and in terms of functionality, laminated ones are in no way inferior to granite ones.

Step 1: Materials and Tools

materials

I couldn't buy pre-made countertops because they come in fixed depths, and we had a peninsula that was too wide to cover with one whole countertop. So I decided to make them all from scratch, using two layers of particle board as a base and laminate sheets glued together.

I purchased:

• 2 sheets of laminate measuring 120 x 240 cm for 8 thousand rubles,
• 3 sheets of chipboard 1.9 cm thick at 1500 rubles each,
• special adhesive for laminate and chipboard.

Tools

Need a saw for laminate, also used a manual wood router. The cutting was done with circular saw with a new blade designed for cutting laminate materials and a hand saw for cutouts.

I used a file to align the corners to 90 degrees. I also needed the construction goats I made earlier from plywood.

Step 2: Measuring and cutting the top layer

We wanted the countertop to protrude 3.5 cm, so I accurately measured the width and set the slab in place so I could measure the back edge against the wall. It was cut with a hand saw, the tabletop was removed and the leading edge was marked up to 3.5 cm.

All holes were marked here as well - I had to place the sink on one countertop and the hob on the other.

Then I drilled holes with a drill and cut out openings for the sink and panel with a hand saw. You can follow my instruction* and combine a drill and a wood hand saw to make holes.

* I used a strip of plywood as a guide so that all the ends are as even as possible.

Step 3: Bonding the two layers

Using only one chipboard at first, I made the countertops two layers thick. I used wood glue and a nail gun to stick them together.

It was possible to initially glue two plates, and only then cut out all the holes. I made it so that you can do all the markup with one lightweight plate, and not a full-fledged countertop.

Step 4: Create the bottom notch

All of the bottom edges of the table top were notched using a V-chisel. This is done so that if something is spilled, the liquid will reach the recess and will drip onto the floor, and not flow onto the cabinets.

I don't know if this is standard practice - I haven't seen it on other countertops, but it only took me a few minutes to do it.

Step 5: Edge Lamination

After cutting 5 cm wide strips of laminate to a sufficient length, I applied glue to the particle board and laminate and left for 10 minutes until the layer was dry to the touch.

You will need a partner to help hold the strip at the correct height, but not let it touch the particle board. Stick to the edge you're holding, and making sure you leave some space at the top and bottom, carefully press down on the rest of the strip. It will be more convenient to press with the whole palm, smoothing the strip from one edge to the other.

After that, I took a router with a wood cutter mounted on it, and set it so that the cutter receded 2 mm from the edge of the chipboard, and cut off the excess laminate.

If your ends are not so smooth, then the router will not work here, and you will have to use a file. This is a long time because laminate is quite hard, but start by cutting it as close to the edge as you can with a saw, and then work it slowly with a file.

Step 6: Surface Lamination

The top was more difficult to make just because it is quite bulky, plus I had two huge surfaces to glue on. The way to deal with this is to use small strips of plywood to separate the surfaces until you are ready to compress them.

If you're in doubt about the gluing process, there's an easy way to practice - try gluing laminated or glossy paper to plywood. Personally, I experimented like this beforehand and made sure that creating a countertop would not be a very difficult task.

I applied glue to both surfaces, then placed a strip every 15 cm on the particle board. I placed a sheet of laminate on these strips, then leveled everything. He pulled out a strip of plywood and leveled the laminate - the surfaces instantly stuck together.

I continued the process, alternately removing the strips and squeezing the surfaces. I was able to avoid air bubbles, which I think has more to do with the fact that this is a beginner gluing method rather than my experience with this kind of work (I did it for the first time, after all).

Step 7: Cutting a Hole and Trimming the Excess

I cut out the laminate where the cutouts were and trimmed the whole thing with manual router. I coated the underside of the countertop with a special oil to protect it from moisture.

Step 8: Installation

Since we had already tried on the countertops on site, the installation was simple - I positioned them in the right position and screwed them to the cabinets from the bottom of the countertops. To install the sink, place the countertop upside down on top of the upturned sink on a soft surface and insert the sink.

After installing the countertop, it will be much more difficult to do this.

Seal the edges adjacent to the walls silicone sealant and you're done. This work is surprisingly easy if you have experience in making something with your own hands, and you do everything carefully and slowly. If you have any questions, I will be happy to answer them.

Despite the fact that furniture plywood is an environmentally friendly and durable material, it is quite difficult to find a finished kitchen from it. But what prevents you from assembling a headset yourself? We are preparing a kitchen project, from plywood, pick up a tool and start manufacturing. Such an environment will be pleasant at a price, and will last for a long time - about 20 years. And you don’t have to adjust your headset to fit typical dimensions manufacturers. do-it-yourself plywood is not done quickly, but every centimeter of it turns out to be as functional as possible.

Furniture from plywood sheets can be made by yourself

What plywood to choose for the kitchen

Plywood is glued sheets of veneer, which are always taken in an odd number. Wear resistance and strength are achieved by the arrangement of the fibers of each sheet in different directions relative to each other. Usually used birch or conifers, while the inner part can be coniferous (GOST 3916.2-96), and the top of birch veneer. Hardwood plywood (GOST 3916.1-96) is considered to be of higher quality and is more expensive.

Material classification

There are several parameters by which the material is classified:

• Brand - determines moisture resistance, scope. The main types of FC, FSF, FKM, FOF, FBA
• Variety - set by appearance every surface. The letter E stands for top quality, then there is a decrease from grade I to grade IV. The grade is determined separately for the face and the wrong side - 1/1, 2/2, ¼ and other combinations
• Surface treatment - unsanded plywood is marked with the letters NSh. If there is one sanded side - Ш1, if both sides have a sanded surface - Ш2
• Formaldehyde content - the letter E with an index in the range 1-3 indicates the environmental friendliness of the material

Plywood for the kitchen must be formaldehyde-free

To make kitchen set do-it-yourself plywood sheets with medium moisture resistance and formaldehyde-free are selected.

Learn more about brands and sizes

Let's give brief description the main brands of plywood, so that you can immediately see which one is suitable for making furniture and which is not:

1. FK - adhesive composition based on urea resins, medium moisture resistance, used for internal works or furniture making
2. PSF - usually used for outdoor work, moisture resistance is high. Formaldehyde resins are used as glue, so furniture from FSF plywood is not made
3. FKM - synthesis of FC and FSF, veneer sheets are glued with melamine resins, suitable for any work, characterized by high moisture resistance and strength
4. FBA - albumin-casein glue is used to connect the sheets, the material has a high degree environmental friendliness, but low moisture resistance
5. FOF - laminated plywood. The material is coated various colors, used in construction and furniture production, is more expensive than other materials

It turns out that plywood for furniture is selected from materials marked FK, FKM, FOF. Sheet sizes are shown in Table No. 1.

Table #1

What to make kitchen furniture

When choosing plywood for furniture, attention is paid to the following indicators:

1. Gluing quality, wood
2. General view of the sheet
3. Wood species - deciduous is more resistant to temperature extremes and high humidity
4. Producing country - preference is given to Russia, as Chinese materials do not have the necessary environmental performance, and Finnish plywood is too expensive

Considering standard size plywood sheet, material properties, quality, grade and price the best choice becomes the FC brand. Grade ½ is selected, sheet size 1525 × 1525 with a thickness of 6, 12 and 18 mm. You can make plywood products with your own hands from laminated sheets, but the cost of the material is significantly different from the FK brand.

Laminated plywood will help build a beautiful kitchen

Measurements and design project of the kitchen

Accurate measurements plus a verified sketch of the headset will allow you to make it efficiently and reliably. The main advantage of such furniture is the individuality of execution.

When doing, one should take into account ergonomic standards, the growth of the hostess, the geometry of the kitchen, the wishes of family members

Stage number 1 - measurements of the kitchen

The dimensions of the room are measured, taking into account protrusions, niches, and passing communications. The parameters are transferred to a sheet of graph paper in compliance with the scale. Instead of drawing by hand, using computer programs to create 3D sketches will do.

Stage number 2 - sketch development

An initial version of what a plywood kitchen looks like, taking into account the arrangement, is being worked out. household appliances. Then specific dimensions of furniture sections are thought out - cabinets, shelves, drawers. Considering individual characteristics project, adhere to the developed ergonomic standards for kitchen furniture (table No. 2). Dimensions are given in centimeters.

Table number 2

Additional sizes:

1. For drawers fit width 30-40cm
2. Plywood shelves are placed at a distance of 30 cm from each other
3. Shelf width = cabinet width - 36 mm (the frame is made of 18 mm sheet)
4. The distance between the top and lower tiers- 45-65 cm

Keep in mind that these are indicative dimensions and are subject to change based on circumstances.

Stage number 3 - drawing up a design project

The sketch is complemented by the verified dimensions of cabinets, cabinets, drawers, shelves. Additionally, the dimensions of the facades are calculated taking into account technological gaps. An individual calculation is carried out for each furniture unit. is done in two projections indicating the dimensions, dimensions of technological holes and grooves. This will help you choose the dimensions of the plywood sheet to minimize the cost of purchasing materials.

Plywood kitchen design can be the most fantastic, it all depends on your imagination.

Preparation of materials and fittings: plywood sheets and more

Consider which plywood to choose, fasteners, accessories.

The dimensions of plywood sheets that you need to buy depend on the manufactured elements:

1. Thickness 18 mm - used to assemble the frame, shelves are cut out of plywood of the same thickness for cabinets.
2. Thickness 12 mm - selected for the manufacture of facades of floor cabinets.
3. Plywood thickness 6 mm - suitable for doors wall cabinets, which are reinforced with stiffeners.

Fasteners

The next step is to decide how the parts will be attached to each other. As experience shows, when furniture is made from plywood with your own hands, it is enough to use only screws. Plywood sheets do not delaminate, do not crumble, hardware does not loosen in holes. It is more than problematic to use furniture minifixes for fastening elements at home, since the highest accuracy in cutting holes in three planes is required. Having precise drawing, you can contact specialized workshops to make holes.

Be sure to make a drawing and then you will understand how much material and what shapes you need

So, to connect the parts you will need:

• Screws, minifixes or confirmations - euro screws with a countersunk head
• Adhesive, silicone sealant

Fittings and finishes

This includes handles, hinges, closers, decorative caps, if minifixes are not used. It should be remembered that plywood kitchen furniture is not overloaded with fancy fittings.

For painting, you will need putty and paint, for pasting with a film - putty and self-adhesive. Furniture can be stained and varnished.

Tool preparation

The kit depends on how you intend to cut the plywood. It is recommended to do this in a furniture workshop, as the process requires high precision and availability. plunge saw with cutting attachment sheet materials. For you will need:

1. Cordless screwdriver or screwdrivers, drill, drill set
2. Hammer, chisels, files, chisel, planer, hammer, mallet
3. Plunge saw, jigsaw, hacksaw
4. Roulette, ruler, square

A standard set of tools should be in every home

Part preparation

Details are marked on a sheet of plywood. Sawing is carried out at home, subject to availability necessary tool or in a furniture workshop. Plywood blanks are sanded and polished. If painting or pasting with a film is planned, then the parts are puttied in two layers, and then polished. To simplify the manufacturing process, furniture laminated plywood is used - its surface is already covered with a film and does not require additional processing.

Headset manufacturing: frame assembly and beyond

To make plywood furniture, you will need to assemble the frame, hang doors, install shelves and drawers.

Plywood has sufficient strength, so timber is not used to assemble the frame. Parts are marked for screws or confirmations. With the help of a special stepped drill, holes are made with threaded and non-threaded parts, a recess for the Euroscrew head. For a conventional screw, countersinking is carried out with a larger diameter drill. mount with front side performed using minifixes, then installation of decorative plugs is not required, but euro screws are also suitable.

Before tightening the parts, the ends are coated with silicone sealant.

The plywood kitchen set will be finally ready when the doors are hung on the frame, shelves and drawers are installed. Holes for fittings are marked and drilled in advance, guides for drawers are installed before the frame is assembled.

Assembling a headset requires accuracy and painstaking approach

Doors are made of sheets 6 mm thick, stiffening ribs give them stability. To cut the shelves out of plywood with your own hands, material with a thickness of 18 mm is taken. A chamfer is removed from the front edges, the cuts are puttied or polished for painting or covering with a film. When varnishing, sanding is sufficient.

Tight fitting headset self-adhesive film, give preference to expensive and quality material- Chinese film does not hold well and looks bad

Laminated plywood furniture has an ideal look - a variety of shades allows you to choose a material that suits a specific design.

Do-it-yourself tabletop

The work surface made of laminate looks great. Economic option it is easy to implement on your own, choosing a coating to match the headset or playing in contrast. The joints of the panels must be coated with sealant to avoid the harmful effects of moisture on the laminate. Front edge closes decorative corner from metal.

The high moisture resistance and size of laminated plywood also allow it to be used as a countertop. The film reliably protects the material from the penetration of liquids, and the edges are impregnated with a moisture-repellent composition.

Making a dining table

To give your kitchen a finished look, try making dinner table from plywood do-it-yourself rectangular shape on two wide legs.

A plywood table can be made in absolutely any shape.

This will require the following blanks:

1. Plywood for countertops - sheet 80 × 120 cm, minimum thickness 18 mm - 1 pc
2. Horizontal piping - plywood plank 15 × 110 cm - 1 pc
3. Tabletop and leg supports - beam with a section of 7.5 × 20 cm and a length of 68.7 cm - 2 pcs
4. Table leg - beam with a section of 7.5 × 20 cm, length 60.0 cm - 2 pcs

You will need to work with every detail to make a plywood table.

Supports for table top and legs

The beam is sawn along, it turns out 4 parts measuring 7.5 × 10x68.7 cm. The elements that are adjacent to the floor are shaped into legs. At a distance of 20 cm on each side, marks are made, between which an arcuate line is drawn with a maximum height of 5 cm. The outer part of the leg support is rounded or left rectangular.

In each support for the table top, a part of a rectangular bar is cut out in the center to a depth of 40 mm - the table leg should enter the recess. The outer edges are rounded.

Table legs, horizontal strapping and table assembly

The legs are left rectangular or they are given a curly shape. The horizontal strapping holds them together, the part is chamfered.

After sanding the blanks and treating with an antiseptic solution, a plywood table is assembled:

1. Connect the table legs to the table top supports and floor elements
2. Pull the structure with a horizontal harness, placing it between the legs
3. Attach the tabletop, screw it in from below through the supports - you will need a minimum of 4 screws on each side

All parts are fastened together with euro screws, the caps of which are closed with plugs. The table is varnished, which dries for 36 hours.

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Summing up

The preparation of materials, schemes and drawings of furniture, the direct assembly of a plywood kitchen is a painstaking but interesting task. Headsets are durable and beautiful, the release of harmful substances is minimized. Self-manufacturing of the design allows you to take into account the nuances of a particular room and the individual characteristics of family members. If the headset is complex structure, then you can assemble the table in 1 day. Try to start with it to understand how plywood behaves and what skills are required to make more complex structures.