What profiles are needed for the box. Assembling the box in the bathroom

The application of the term "box" to drywall structures is not entirely correct, but has become widespread among specialists in interior decoration. A more appropriate name for a GKL product located in the area where the wall meets the ceiling would be a "false beam". For the vertical design of the hiding pipe in the bathroom, a "false column" is more appropriate, but it is much easier and more common to call such structures a box.

Let's consider the manufacturing process with our own hands, using the example of a GKL box that hides, which was installed in our kitchen.

Before their departure, the ventilation installers left me a package of corrugations with a diameter of 110 mm, a roll of foil tape and their parting words regarding the features of fastening diffusers. Yes, another box of 100 pieces of metal anchors - beautiful and shiny. When I started making the box, I had the feeling that even though I was doing it for myself, not for free, but for anchors...

In fact, the thing is indispensable in certain cases. They hold well and are easily screwed with a hammer, but they are practically not used in drywall products. But something I digress, we are interested in what materials will be needed for the high-quality manufacture of the box.

Necessary materials

Unlike traditional structures such as wall sheathing, ceiling sheathing and, for the box structure, the main consumable are guides PPN 27/28 mm.

For example, it is necessary to install a GKL box 2.5 meters long, with edges of 20 and 30 cm. We need guides (4 x 2.5) + (0.2 x 2) + (0.3 x 2) = 11 meters. Rack, that is, profile PP 60/27 mm., Depending on the design step - from 4 to 5 meters. Obviously, the ratio of the number of guides and racks is completely different here.

For the use of drywall, the requirements are almost the same as for other structures - quality material well-known manufacturers, primarily Giproc and Knauf. The only plus and savings lies in the ability to use drywall scraps in the construction of the box, often remaining when sewing walls and ceilings.

markup

When designing a box in the kitchen, you have to start from the external dimensions of the hood, or rather its most massive parts - the silencer and the engine.

We find the lowest point and transfer the level to the wall. We project the part farthest from the wall onto the ceiling. To do this, holding the building level vertically, we press it with a plane to the protruding part of the structure, and the end of the level to the ceiling. Finding vertical position according to the indication of an air bubble, we mark a point on the ceiling.

Through a point on the wall we outline the horizon line. The ceiling is a little more difficult, as you need to think in advance about kitchen furniture, that is, maintain an angle of 90 degrees between the walls.

It is more convenient to mark all long straight lines with a masking cord (beats). It is advisable to have 2 pieces with paint (sold separately) in blue and red when carrying out a complex repair, as on various surfaces a line of one of these colors will be better visible. For example, red is seen a little better than blue almost everywhere, except for exposed brickwork.

Installing guides

After marking, we fix the guides along all lines formed at the intersection of planes (box and three walls).

It is necessary to fix the profile with reasonable sufficiency, that is, in increments of about 300 mm. For fastening, plastic dowels with a diameter of 6 mm are used. and black wood screws with a diameter of 3.5 mm., 41 or 51 mm long.

Pay attention to how the guides set the position of the edges of the box, or rather on mutual arrangement vertical and horizontal profile. The photo below shows that in the corner the profiles converge in such a way that the vertical fragment is the "final", that is, it reaches the top of the corner.

It is important to perform a similar arrangement on two opposite walls of the room where the box is mounted.

Assembling and fixing the shelf

The next step is to assemble the so-called "shelf". It serves to form the outer corner of the future box, as well as for convenient and rigid fastening of jumpers. It is assembled quite simply - it is necessary to measure the exact distance between the two walls, between the points at which the shelf will be fixed.

Cut off two guides, 5 mm. shorter than the received size. We assemble on the floor, laying one guide like the letter "P" turned on its side, and putting the second one on top of it, like "P" turned upside down. We scroll with self-tapping screws 4.2 by 16 mm (press washer) in increments of 200 - 300 mm.

When assembling the "shelf", pay attention to the exact alignment of the two faces - they must form a single plane. It can be difficult to achieve this immediately due to the peculiarities of the pressure washer entering the metal. Therefore, it is better to start connecting two guides by fixing the two ends, then we fix the center.

We divide the distance between the central screw and the one located on the edge approximately in half and fix it.

We continue to connect until an even, well-fixed structure is obtained.

The next step in assembling the drywall box is hanging the "shelf". This operation is recommended to be carried out by two people. First you need to grab the shelf to the rails located on the wall with the help of a notcher. If the length of the box (and hence the shelves) does not exceed three meters, then you can not be afraid of sagging and deformation when fastening at first only at the ends.

With a longer length of the structure, it is necessary to fix the vertical jumper in advance and fix it to three points at once. Of course it's about pre-fixed, so to speak, to let go and nothing flew down.

Jumper installation

Now we mark the location of the vertical and horizontal jumpers. Ideally, the pitch between them is 400 mm. But such an element as a box is often not only decorative, but serves as a place for attaching lighting and ventilation. Therefore, first of all, we note where the outputs of various communications will be located and make adjustments to the position of the jumpers.

For example, when constructing a box frame that covers the forced exhaust system, I was faced with the need to remove two diffusers and two hatches that provide access to system maintenance. It is clear that in this case it will not be possible to observe the sequence of jumpers with one step. When there are no barriers, it looks like this;

I had to deviate from an even step between the racks:

What you should pay attention to when determining the positions of the frame elements. The presence of metal strengthens the structure, primarily at its location. Any cutouts in drywall, as well as the installation of fixtures, on the contrary, weaken the rigidity.

Therefore, it is desirable to shift or install additional jumpers in the immediate vicinity of places of increased load. In the case of hatches, the profile is mounted as a frame, at least on both sides of the rectangle to be cut. By self-tapping screws you can see where the horizontal racks are located.

Sheathing the box with drywall is the final installation operation. Having instructed required amount racks they still need to be fixed, and do it in such a way that the shelf (rib or outer edge of the frame) forms a clear, straight line.

Alignment of the metal frame

There are several options for setting the frame. In any of these options, it is assumed that the shelf is already fixed at the ends, and its center is fixed by one of the central posts approximately at the level (that is, "by eye"). At the same time, all racks are cut to such a length that they allow the shelf to "walk" a little while searching for the desired position. That is, all racks must initially be cut into 10-15 mm. less than the exact distance and carefully handle the cut edge with scissors and pliers.

Method 1

At the initial markup, a hydraulic level was used, which means that the ends of the shelf are in the same horizontal plane. To build a geometrically correct box, it is enough to fix the racks so that the shelf straightens. As a tool, we use the rule, and here it is also more convenient, and I would say it is imperative to act together.

We press the rule to the shelf from below (the center of the rules in the area of ​​​​the central pillar) and release one of the screws holding the central pillar. We achieve the absence of a gap between the rule and the shelf along the entire length of the rule. We fix the central rack already in the correct position.

Move the rule to the edge (the end of the rule rests against the wall). We expose the racks located between the central and the edge of the box. We proceed similarly with the horizontal plane of the frame, only the rule is pressed not from below, but from the side.

This method is suitable if a rule or a long level is available, and the length of the box is longer than the available tool. But what if there is a rule 3 meters long, and between the walls where the box is mounted, for example, 2.75 meters? Sawing off the rule is not our method, so we will use:

Method 2

To expose the frame of the box, it is enough to have a building level of 600 - 800 mm. In the region of the central vertical rack the level is pressed from below to the shelf and to the guide fixed to the wall. We release the screw, catch the horizon and fix the screw in place.

We pass through all the racks. For the horizontal part of the box - we press the level to the ceiling guide and catch the vertical. Our shelf design is rigid enough that it is difficult to get a wavy line on the edge of the box.

Method 3

At the edges of the shelf (where it rests against the walls), two self-tapping screws are screwed directly into the outer edge. The screw must go into outer corner at 45% to the profile planes as an angle bisector. It’s difficult to do the first time, but using an extremely sharp self-tapping screw of a small length will help. You can take 3.5 * 16 mm. or 3.5*25 mm. gypsum metal.

Between the screws we stretch the nylon thread (cord 0.8 - 1.0 mm thick.) In the maximum possible tension. The thread serves as an excellent reference when positioning the shelf and gives very reliable results on the final geometry.

The main point - make sure that the shelf does not touch the thread closely (only for self-tapping screws). When fixing the racks, a “hairy” gap should remain between the thread and the outer edge of the shelf.

At the end of the nomination process. I strongly recommend replacing the self-tapping screws holding the box posts with pull rivets. You will need a 3.2 mm metal drill. (it is better to buy double-sided, and if simple, then several pieces at once), a riveter - a cheap Chinese and the rivets themselves will do. I recommend a 3.2mm diameter. 8-12 mm long.

The sequence of actions - first we drill holes and rivet both ends of the rack, and only then we unscrew the bugs. The fact that the rivets will not be in the center of the rack is nothing to worry about.

It remains to check whether everything is laid inside the frame of the box and can be sewn up with drywall. It is advisable to call (i.e. check the performance electrical circuit), so that it is not excruciatingly painful after the drywall is puttied.

Where possible, the vertical side is sewn first, then the horizontal bottom. With this sequence, it is much more convenient to process the edge, since you do not have to sharpen with a planer turned upside down.

When attaching drywall to the frame of the box, the step between the screws differs from that adopted when sheathing, for example, walls. Here the step has to be done less, and the consumption of self-tapping screws increases.

Try not to get the self-tapping screws into the junction of the racks with the rails so that the self-tapping screw does not have to flash through double metal.

Everyone has done renovations at some point in their home. At the same time, you always want to do something beautiful, original and interesting.

Not so long ago, in the vastness of our vast country, multi-level ceilings appeared, which for some 10-15 years won the hearts of the inhabitants. So, changing the geometry of the ceiling is inexpensive and, most importantly, interesting solution thanks to which you can decorate your home.

Our article today will be entirely devoted to this topic. We will tell you how to install a drywall box on the ceiling - moreover, we will consider several different options. And also, we will analyze the tools and materials required for these purposes.

Preparing to assemble the box

A hollow box is an excellent decorative and functional addition to almost any room.

Its functionality is as follows:

• First of all, it is an opportunity to hide unsightly communications.. Under the boxes they hide plumbing and sewer pipes(applies to wall boxes), electrical wiring and ventilation ducts.

• Next comes the possibility, which is built into the box itself.

• Accordingly, we can embed great amount various equipment, from , to motion or fire detectors.
• In niches on boxes.
• And of course, it is difficult not to notice the aesthetic component of these structures.. The variety of their shapes and sizes will undoubtedly bring beauty to the rooms where they are installed.

The box is an integral part multi-level ceiling. On the inner area, you can stretch (from PVC or fabric), make a flat plasterboard ceiling or place a lot of figured multi-level inserts. Here everything depends entirely on your imagination.

We select and calculate the material for the box

Let's talk about everything in order. To begin with, we will measure your ceiling and determine the amount of material required, and at the same time we will figure out what generally needs to be purchased for repairs.

• First of all, we measure all the walls in your room. Exactly all, not two, since it often happens that at some objects the difference can reach 10 or more centimeters. Imagine that we got exactly 4 by 3 meters.
• Do it right away simple drawing(top view), on which mark the location of the windows. In the same place, indicate the distances to their edges from adjacent corners. This information may be useful if you want to arrange in a box separate niches under curtains. If you are not interested, then you can skip the step.

• Now we can calculate the amount of guide profile for our box. It is called PPN and has dimensions of 27 by 28 mm. This profile is intended for fastening prefabricated structures to capital floors, wood paneling, the previous levels of the frame (in general, everything that can withstand the weight of the finished structure) and adjacent walls.
• It is very easy to calculate the amount of this profile if you are going to install a simple rectangular structure. For curved boxes, you will have to take it with a margin or perform a preliminary marking of the contours of the structure on the ceiling and accurately measure everything, which is very troublesome. You will probably guess how to do this yourself after we describe the calculation for a simple ceiling.
• So, the frame for the box can be assembled using two technologies: simplified and reinforced, and each of them requires different amount material. The first is suitable if the ceiling is all built of drywall, and the second is better to install if it is installed stretch fabric or the box will be quite massive, although the strength of the first option should be enough. In general, each master decides for himself.
• We will describe the assembly process of both types further, but for now, remember the principles of counting. The box adjacent to the wall has three edges: two of them are connected to the ceiling and wall, let's call them adjoining, and the remaining one is angular, let's call it central. So, in the simplified box, in place of the central one, there is one profile, and in the reinforced one, there are two, which are paired with each other.

• First, let's calculate the material for the simplified box. We have 4+3+4+3 = 14 meters - the perimeter of our premises. On each edge of the box we will have one profile, so we multiply the perimeter by three: 14 * 3 = 42 meters. The standard length of such a profile is 3 meters, so we divide the resulting value by this figure and get 14 pieces of profiles.
• Calculations are performed similarly for the second type, only we will multiply by four: 14 * 4 / 3 = 18.66, that is, 19 pieces per box.
• In cases custom sizes, always get a few pieces in reserve, since short cuts from the profile are inconvenient to use for these purposes. However, they can be used to strengthen the box if it is large.

• Another type of profile that we need is a load-bearing PP with a section of 27x60. It is installed inside the PPN profile in increments of 50 or 60 centimeters (depending on how you place the drywall sheet).
• Here we need to determine for ourselves the width and height of our box, and for a simplified version, only the width. We calculate the number of jumpers in the drawing and multiply the values.
• Let's imagine that we want a box 55 cm long and 15 cm high. We get 4 jumpers on the long and short sides. Why 4? Yes, because, already assembled on the short sides, the box will take up 110 centimeters of the long side.
• So: 4 * 4 * 0.55 / 3 \u003d 2.93, that is, 3 whole profiles, but everything is not so simple. You will have to buy 4 due to the fact that each will come out with a trim of 25 centimeters, and you will also need several jumpers for the vertical under the drywall seams.
• In a completely similar way, the material is calculated for the complicated version, but we would multiply not by 0.55, but by 0.7, taking into account the vertical jumpers.

Advice! When changing any parameters, proportionally change the input data for calculations.

The remaining materials are presented in the form of a table:

Boxes on the plasterboard ceiling will not require a lot of material from you, so the cost of the entire structure for our virtual room is unlikely to exceed 4-5 thousand rubles. Naturally, without taking into account the cost of work, if you hire a specialist, and subsequent finishing.

Instruments

In order to assemble a drywall ceiling box with your own hands, you will need the following tools. If they are not available, then it is quite possible that it is easier to invite the master.

You can’t do without: a tape measure, a pencil, a marker and a drywall cue ball for a screwdriver.

Box installation

So, let's go directly to the assembly. We will consider both options that we mentioned earlier, the option with a backlit cornice, and also say a few words about how they are assembled.

Simplified frame assembly

We start by marking the box on the walls and ceiling.

Attention! The most difficult task when creating curly boxes, this is the creation of a geometrically accurate pattern, so to speak, a stencil along which the frame will be wound. For these purposes, they use the laws that we studied at school in geometry and drawing, and one of the most popular tools is a home-made compass from a dowel pencil and string (or a piece of profile).

• We start with the walls. We determine with the help of the level the most low angle in room.
• We retreat from it the required distance down - recall that we have it 15 centimeters - and duplicate the resulting level in all corners. At the same time, it is not necessary to measure everything with a level - it is enough to retreat an equal distance from the already received marks with a tape measure.
• Next, we apply a coloring thread along the marks, stretch it and beat off the lines. So we got the bottom level of our frame.

Advice! If you save every centimeter indoors, then do not forget to adjust the resulting heights for the thickness of the ceiling drywall - 9.5 mm.

• Let's go to the ceiling. We mark the required distance from the walls at the corners - 55 cm with us.
• We beat off straight lines with the same lace. The markup is ready.

Let's write a simplified version first:

• In our particular case, it will be much more convenient to start the assembly with short walls. The fact is that standard profiles have a length of 3 meters (there are also 4, but they are quite rare), and if we go this way, we will save ourselves the need to build up profiles on a long wall.
• So, we fix the guides to the walls and ceiling along the previously obtained lines. If the ceiling has significant differences (for example, at the junction of plates), then cut through the side edges of the profile in these places and bend it to the base, avoiding sagging.
• The fastener installation step strongly depends on the quality of the profile you have chosen, but most often it is 50-60 centimeters. Some profiles already have holes that will additionally help you navigate.

Advice! When hammering the anchor into the profile, use two hammers, the head of one of them should be square and go inward - use it as a hammer.

• Now you need to cut a strip from drywall that will match the height of the box.

Attention! If the ceiling has irregularities, immediately decide from which point you will push off, and try to repeat its contours when cutting the sheet.

• Drywall is cut in a straight line like this: we lay the sheet on flat surface; make the necessary marks on both sides; we apply a rule or a PP profile on top and cut through the cardboard shell with a clerical knife. Next, you need to take the cut for a break (put the sheet on the edge or lay it on the surface with an edge overhang). The plaster core will crack exactly in line with the knife. It remains only to cut the second side of the cardboard.

• On the cut edges, irregularities are constantly formed due to the heterogeneity of the gypsum. To trim them, we use a rasp - it easily removes layers of gypsum.
• Directly on the floor we apply to ourselves even edge the blanks are a whole guide profile (if necessary, we shorten it) and fasten it with self-tapping screws.
• We lift the sheet up and fasten the other side to the ceiling profile, not forgetting to check the horizontal level. For this, it is very convenient to preliminarily, in right points, pull the nylon thread.
• As a result, the profile that we wound at the bottom should be directed towards the wall guide.
• If necessary, cut off another strip and hem the side along the entire length. At the junction of the strips, you need to place one vertical jumper - this way you guarantee yourself that no cracks will appear in this place in the future.
• Due to the fact that the box most often has a long, narrow shape, it is convenient to place drywall sheets longitudinally to it. This results in fewer seams, which means that the structure will be stronger.
• It is known that the length of a standard sheet is 2.5 meters, which means that the step between the jumpers must be made 50 centimeters, that is, a multiple.
• We put down marks from one corner with an equal, above-mentioned indent. This must be done on the wall under the profile and on drywall, already screwed to a vertical plane. This will allow not only to correctly place the jumpers, but also to accurately hit them with self-tapping screws when they are hidden under a layer of drywall.

• Next, we cut the jumpers from the profile with metal scissors.

Advice! Please note that when cutting through the side faces of the PP profile, the stiffener is compressed and the end section increases, which greatly interferes with the joining of the jumpers with the guide profiles. Here is our simple advice: with metal scissors, at an angle, cut off the resulting irregularities of the stiffener, and the profile will enter the guide like clockwork.

• Arrange the jumpers according to the marks, pressing them against the wall and fixing them to the wall profile on the “bugs”.
• The vertical alignment will occur along the already stretched thread. As you understand, it should be located exactly in the corner of the box. We determine the position and link the profiles.

Here our box is practically ready, it remains only to hem it from the bottom with drywall and, if necessary, strengthen it. Similarly, we assemble the box on the opposite, and then on adjacent walls.

The filing of the horizontal part is done last, and before that, wiring, ventilation and all the required work can be done in the frame.

In order to finish the sheathing, we cut the sheets into a length of 56 centimeters (taking into account the thickness of the drywall on the vertical plane). We lift them up, while it is better to work together so as not to overstrain, and fasten them onto self-tapping screws in increments of 15-18 centimeters.

You can use all kinds of stops, and even a professional lift, to facilitate the task. If you have back problems, which is not uncommon for masters, then you must have such a device.

By the way, if you have a piece with a width slightly larger than necessary, then it is not at all necessary to cut drywall on the floor. It will be much more convenient to screw it on and cut it in place.

Reinforced frame assembly

The reinforced frame differs from the previous version in that profiles, and not drywall, take over all the supporting functions.

It is assembled as follows:

• Profiles are also wound around the perimeter of the walls and onto the ceiling.
• A nylon thread is also attached to the corner of the box for proper orientation in space.
• Further assembly begins with the pairing of the profiles - lay them on top of each other perpendicularly, align the edges clearly and pull them along the entire length with "bugs" in increments of 40-50 centimeters.
• Next, insert the resulting structure on a short wall into the guides wall profiles. If the length is not enough, then the free edge will have to be hung on a piece of PP profile of the desired height.
• We carry out the markup for the jumpers, we just place them on the ceiling as well.

• We cut the jumpers on the vertical and horizontal sides of the box and arrange them.
• We connect the entire structure with bedbugs, not forgetting to line up along the previously stretched line.
• If necessary, we strengthen the structure with suspensions.

Since this type of construction is used mainly for stretch ceilings, we will need to install mortgages for baguettes.

It is most convenient to use a 50x40 wall guide profile for these purposes. The fact is that its width will be enough for connection, and the sides do not have bends for rigidity. You can also use a PP profile, but then you will have to cut off the folded ears.

The pink horizontal in the diagram is the mortgage that ensures the strength of the fastening stretch ceiling. To install it, you need to attach the profile horizontally, mark the places of cuts with a marker, cut through the profile, bend the ears, tap them with a hammer for evenness and fix everything on the “bugs”.

You can make a mortgage from profile pieces, but then get ready for a long, tedious job. We offer a fast and high quality option.

Box with cornice

How to make a box if we plan to make it backlit? Here the structure will also be held only by the profiles, but its structure is completely different.

This design requires that the horizontal part protrude beyond the boundaries of the vertical. An LED strip is placed inside and its power supply is hidden.

• The beginning is identical - the profile guides rotate on the ceiling and walls.
• Next, you need to pull the thread, which will set the position of the lower jumpers horizontally, as well as their length.
• We carry out the markup for the jumpers.
• We cut off one, set it in place and measure the vertical height with a tape measure - about 5 mm short of the bottom edge of the horizontal.
• Let's cut it off too.
• Now you need to make a recess from the lower end, leaving the side ears, or simply bend the stiffeners at the horizontal jumper and connect them (the convergence point is measured strictly according to the tape measure to avoid waves and distortions), as in the photo above.
• We wind the vertical jumper to the ceiling profile, insert a horizontal one into it and connect them with “bugs”.
• Lastly, we tie the horizontal to the wall guide.
• Set the rest of the profiles in the same way.

Such a box is sheathed in the following sequence: first, the inner vertical, then the end of the cornice (the LED strip is installed and powered along the way) and at the end the lower side.

A little about curvilinear structures

give exact step by step instructions for assembling a multi-level, curvilinear box is almost unrealistic, since the variety of shapes is simply amazing. In some cases, you have to invent on the go non-standard solutions, to implement a particular idea, so this work is partly creative.

We want to give a couple of basic tips on how to curve profiles and drywall itself. Otherwise, you will have to navigate on the spot.

• So, as we have said, the main thing is the drawing on the ceiling. It will not be difficult to repeat it with a profile
• It is enough to cut through the profile in increments of 3-7 centimeters (depending on the steepness of the bending radius). In the language of professionals - to make a "caterpillar".
• When mounted on the ceiling, one side and front side, and for connection with profiles - both side.

To bend the drywall itself, you need to either soak it in water, after piercing the back side with a spiked roller over the entire surface, or cut it through it and the inner layer of cardboard with a certain step - see photo below.

The remaining furrows and irregularities are eliminated at the stage of puttying the surface.

There is another way. It is simpler, but much more expensive - we get designer arched drywall. It has a thickness of 6 mm and is reinforced with fiberglass, thanks to which it is able to bend well without additional tricks.

This concludes our article. Today we have dismantled how a drywall box is assembled with our own hands on the ceiling, touching different types structures.

We hope that the material has submitted to you, because, in fact, there is nothing complicated in it. If some questions remain open, then try re-reading incomprehensible places or watching the video that we have selected for you.

Hello to all readers of the project. This time we will learn how to assemble a simple triangular drywall box with our own hands. Having mastered the technology of mounting such boxes, you can easily assemble a two-sided one, and, moreover, simply “sew up” a niche.

This time I will not explain why drywall was chosen for this case, because it is already so obvious. We will make the box simple rectangular shape, such pipes or beams are usually sheathed.
It happens, of course, that they are also used for decoration, although in these cases they almost always have some kind of “chips”.
But for example, I took a standard case for finishing: Utility room, where the walls are ready, there are tiles on the floor, and somewhere in one place a pipe passes through the floor.

Of course, it was decided to sheathe this pipe after everything around it had been done. Everything is like in life.

Let's not hesitate and decide what we need for the assembly.

Tools and accessories

1. Ceiling guide profiles PN (27×28 mm)
2. Ceiling profiles PP (60×27 mm)
3. Sealing tape
4. "Dowel-nails"
5. 2m (or laser level)
6. Drywall sheets 12.5 mm
7. Reinforcing tape for seams (serpyanka)
8. Roulette
9. A hammer
10. Stationery knife (or special knife for cutting the Civil Code)
11. Perforator + drill
12. screwdriver
13. Self-tapping screws for metal 25-35 mm (black, frequent pitch)
14. Self-tapping screws with a press washer
15. Putty for seams GK
16. acrylic primer
17. Metal shears
18. Soundproofing (if required)
19. Spatula set (narrow, wide and for corners)
20. square

I already talked about how to choose profiles in an article about a ceiling made of plasterboard. Drywall, by the way, we take wall - 12.5 mm.

Marking and installation of the frame, well, and sheathing here

This is what we see in our basement. Of course, first we need to lay out the frame, which we do. Let's take the dimensions of the future box 50 × 40 cm, retreat from the pipe approximately equal distance in both directions and mark with a plumb line or level two vertical lines at a distance of 47.5 (50 minus two GKL thicknesses) cm from each other.

From them, using a square, we set aside perpendicular to the wall 38.75 (40 minus the thickness of the GKL) cm on the floor and ceiling, which we then connect with a line, parallel wall. This applies to equal vertical walls. But even if the wall is not vertical, then the least evil is to make the structure not level, but parallel to the wall. It should look something like this:

We cut and fasten guide profiles to the dowel-nails, not forgetting to glue them with sealing tape.

Pay attention to how the profiles are placed on the ceiling and on the floor - the front one reaches the line, and the end ones rest against it. You need to do just that, a little later we will find out why.

As soon as this part of the frame is assembled, we proceed to the manufacture of the side ends. Here the trick is that they are mounted "on the ground" and attached to our frame already in assembled. Let's make the left end first. We cut off a narrow sheet of drywall with a width of 38.5 cm (leave a couple of millimeters in stock). Since we have a ceiling height of 3 meters, one piece of HA is not enough for us. It doesn't matter, we make the end of two pieces, just insert a jumper from the ceiling profile between them.

We place a guide on the floor, we have it just 3 meters long. But keep in mind that the length of this profile should be less than the height of the room by 1 cm, so we cut off the extra centimeter. We also put another one of the same next to it in parallel, for comfort so that the HA is parallel to the floor. It doesn't stick to the side! Now we lay our narrow sheet of drywall on them, align its edge exactly along the right profile and sew them with self-tapping screws. That is, understood? There is only ONE profile on the edge for each sidewall, the second profile in the picture is for convenience!

Done, now we put the PP under this sheet so that there is half of it under the sheet, and we sew it in the same way, then we already lay the second sheet on all these profiles and do the same with it. The point is that the sheets of the Civil Code must be joined on the profile. Yes, it will seem to “hang in the air”, not connecting with other profiles, but this should not worry you. It turns out like this:

The structure must be assembled in such a way that the plasterboards would then be raised above the floor by 1 cm as well. Well, since we have a profile of 2.99 m, it means that we are just leveling the sheets along it.

We lift this whole structure, carry it to the frame and insert our sewn profile into the upper and lower guide profiles on the floor / ceiling - so we found out why it was necessary to mount them that way. That's it, the butt is automatically leveled, we fasten the structure to the frame with self-tapping screws.

We do the same with the second end:




It remains to put a few jumpers from the ceiling profile, insert them in increments of 50 or 60 cm, depending on how we will cut the drywall - along or across:




When installing jumpers, you need to control the side ends - they should be perpendicular to the wall, look at the square. We do not need "humpback". The length of the profiles, again, should be slightly less than the width of the box, about a centimeter. Usually the jumpers, when inserted into the guides, by themselves keep the ends from convergence / divergence, but if not, you can use several self-tapping screws with a press washer to fasten them. Please note that during the facing of the front end, the screws will need to be unscrewed, otherwise they will leave bumps on the drywall.

Before sheathing, you can stuff mineral wool into the box, this will significantly reduce the noise from the draining water, if the cotton wool is laid tightly and without gaps, then there is a high probability that you will never hear water in the pipe.

When facing the front face, the position of the ends is also controlled by a square. First, the screws are screwed into the corners of the sheet so that the sides do not move anywhere, and then along the entire length of the PN and jumpers. Docking sheets, of course, is possible only on profiles:

That's all, our drywall box is assembled, it remains to reinforce and putty the joints of the sheets. This is discussed in the lesson about the ceiling made of drywall with your own hands. After that, protective corners are installed. They have also been discussed in detail in the topic about plaster slopes. For someone, perhaps, this method of assembly may cause distrust, but believe me, it will turn out to be very tough, especially since drywall arches are assembled in the same way - the ends are also sewn there first.

After installing the corners, I always trim all the ends with putty using the rule, and only then putty as usual - with a spatula. This is quite laborious (a few extra hours), but it gives perfect result- all edges are flat, corners - clear. I advise you to do this. By the way, you may be interested in an article about assembling a drywall niche, just inside the same trihedral box.

Here is such a short, simple lesson, I think everything should be clear. Don't forget to subscribe for updates, and good luck with your DIY repairs!

When carrying out repairs, there is always a choice of ceiling finishes. High requirements open pipes, ventilation and other communications are not allowed to the aesthetics of the room. You can hide any wires and lines by installing a drywall box. This design looks spectacular on the ceiling in any room: kitchen, hallway, living room, bedroom. Finished construction looks like two-level ceiling but it will cost less to install. The shape of the box is selected according to common interior rooms, Spotlights become its organic addition.

In this article we will tell you how to make a drywall box yourself, consider various options, as well as demonstrate photo and video instructions.

Finishing Benefits

• Drywall - safe and environmentally friendly pure material, its use is safe for health.
• The design allows you to create any geometric shapes and serves important element ceiling decor.
• Possibility to add additional lighting.
• Ease of processing and installation.
• High degree of fire safety.

Types of drywall

The drywall sheet is construction material, based on a hardened layer of gypsum with filler. Both sides of the sheet are pasted over with paper, which serves as protection for the inside and provides stretching of the material during operation. Universal and inexpensive material received wide distribution. Depending on the purpose, it is divided into moisture resistant, material intended for normal humidity, and fire resistant. Excellent performance cellulose-reinforced gypsum fiber sheet has strength.

Materials required for installation

The basis for installing the ceiling box is a frame made of a metal profile, for which you will need:

• guide profile UD;
• carrier profile CD;
• brackets and crab connectors;
• fastening materials (self-tapping screws, dowels);
• drywall sheets 12 mm thick, corresponding to the level of humidity in the room;
• primer;
• plaster putty;
• mesh for seams.

When choosing a material, it is necessary to pay attention to its quality: drywall sheets should not have chips, the galvanizing of the surface of the profiles should be uniform. Rigidity metal frame ensures the safety of the entire structure, it is better to purchase material from well-known manufacturers. Fasteners and profiles must be of the same brand.

Before installing the box, it is necessary to make a drawing that will allow you to calculate the amount of material needed.

Until the moment of sheathing, the sheets are stored only in a horizontal position.

Box installation rules

• Ceiling to be installed drywall construction, must be even, for this preparatory work is carried out.
• The reliability of the design is guaranteed only aluminum profile manufactured at the factory. Only high-quality material withstands the load and ensures the installation of structures of any shape.
• If the frame guides pass near the hot pipes, then it is necessary to increase the distance between them, otherwise the heating will cause the metal to expand and damage the shape of the box.
• Before starting the lining, markings are applied to the sheet.
• After fixing the sheets, puttying and painting the surface of the structure is performed.

The box device will require preparation various tools for work:

1. Measuring instruments: tape measure, plumb line, level.
2. Metal scissors.
3. Perforator.
4. Screwdriver.
5. Spatulas.
6. A hammer.
7. Construction knife.

Stages of work

1. Before assembling the box on the ceiling, it is necessary to mark up. The lines are drawn with a pencil, the parallelism of the markup is controlled by a bubble or laser level. Lines for the subsequent fastening of the guides are drawn on the walls and ceiling. The pipes that the box will hide must be primed and painted with high quality, after the installation of the structure they will become difficult to access.
2. For convenience, you can lay out the profiles for the frame on the floor and transfer the markings to the ceiling. Holes for dowels are made along the fastening lines using a puncher.
3. Guides forming upper part boxes attached to the ceiling.
4. Hangers for fasteners are made independently, the guide profile is cut into segments of the desired length.
5. A guide UD profile is screwed around the perimeter. It forms the plane of the structure, the shape of the box depends on the accuracy of observing the horizontal level when it is fixed. Fixation of galvanized rails occurs with the help of self-tapping screws. The fastening step should be from 30 to 60 cm, it depends on the weight of the structure. If in start profile There are holes for easy installation.
6. According to the markings, suspensions are attached to the ceiling. They are easily cut with scissors along the length of the box. A carrier CD-profile is attached to their lower part with self-tapping screws. The main load of the structure falls on this element, because drywall sheets are screwed to it. All parts must be in the same plane, no bends are allowed.
7. It is necessary to prepare the wiring for spotlights, marking the places of their installation. The wires are fixed so as not to damage them during further installation of the box.
8. Lastly, the transverse parts are screwed, they are attached perpendicular to the wall in increments of 60 cm. The frame is ready, you can sew it up with sheets.

Before fixing the skin, insulation is laid, if provided. Sheets of drywall are cut to the size of the box. The joints of two adjacent sheets must be located on one CD-profile. Initially, the lower part of the structure is sutured, and then the side.

The material is fixed with self-tapping screws, the heads of which are recessed by 1-2 mm to facilitate puttying.

Round holes are cut in the places where the lamps are installed.

Finishing

Finishing work drywall box start by priming the entire surface. After drying, the turn of the starting putty comes. Applying putty is a responsible and complex procedure, improper finishing will spoil the overall impression of appearance designs. For quality work professional craftsmen they use two spatulas - working and auxiliary, it is worth considering their experience and preparing a wide and narrow spatula. Auxiliary tool a layer of putty is applied, and the main one is leveled.

The corners of the structure are formed with a metal corner fixed to starting putty. It is necessary to press the element to ensure a snug fit to the box. After removing the corners, the connecting seams are glued with a mesh and filled with putty. When the finish of the joints dries, the entire surface of the box is puttyed. This procedure occurs more than once, each layer gradually removes all irregularities. Finishing layer performed very thin. Another secret is to use the start and finishing putty from a single manufacturer, this guarantees material compatibility. Dried putty requires surface grinding. To do this, first use large, and then fine sandpaper.

The assembly of the box takes place in the same way as described above. But there are some details to consider. It is necessary to make suspension racks from the ceiling profile. For this purpose, a profile should be cut, equal in size to the height of the box. On one side, make cuts along the folds, 40-50 mm high and bend inward back wall. The number of such blanks should be calculated so that they are installed every 60 cm along the length of the entire box. Insert the prepared suspension stand with the uncut side into the guide profile on the ceiling and attach it with a self-tapping screw.

Now you need to make a blank from the ceiling profile. From it, cut the profile along a length equal to the bottom of the box. Consider the fact that the lower length will be different from the upper one, since there should be a shelf at the bottom for installing the backlight. That is, the length of the profile segment should be 5 cm longer than the length of the bottom of the box. This distance is quite enough to place the LED strip there. At one end, insert the workpiece into the guide profile on the wall with the shelves up and fix it with self-tapping screws. The other end is attached to a hanging stand. In this case, it is important to maintain an angle of 90 °.

The result is a box with a protruding profile. Protruding segments should be muffled. To do this, insert cut pieces of a profile of the appropriate length onto them. This will serve as the basis for attaching the drywall strip, and the LED strip will be mounted on top.

Now you can sheathe the box. In conclusion, it remains to build a backlight. To do this, you must first purchase:

• 220 V power supply for led strip 12 V.
• LED strip, which can be one color or changing color.

To select the appropriate power supply, you must determine the power of the LED strip. To do this, you need to measure the perimeter of the entire niche and multiply the resulting figure by the power running meter ribbons. But that's not all, as the following nuances should be taken into account:

• It is not recommended to connect the tape to the power supply in series, as the subsequent piece of tape will shine weaker.
• If the power of the block is too large, then this significantly affects its size. Therefore, when arranging the frame, consider this. There is another option, for example, to purchase a power supply for each piece of tape, it has small dimensions.

The tape must be glued to the made shelf. When everything is laid, you can connect it to the power supply.

If we talk about the size of the box, then it will depend on what you want to disguise behind it. For example, it could be wiring water pipes, gas pipes, ventilation duct And so on. If a backlight will be installed, then the size should be sufficient so that the power supply and LED strip can be installed.

A properly installed box will decorate the room and last for many years.

Video

This is how you can make a drywall box yourself:

A photo

Scheme

Very often, during repairs, there is a need to hide certain structural elements, for example, heating radiators installed outside. Naturally, residents often want to hide them in order to make the interior more aesthetic. Undoubtedly, the fact that heating radiators are located outside allows you to access them at any time, for example, for repair or replacement.

But domestic builders very often install heating radiators, to put it mildly, not quite beautifully and neatly. Very often, pipes are installed crookedly and look completely ugly. When pasting walls with wallpaper, pipes and radiators create additional difficulties, since it is very difficult to paste behind them. Therefore, an excellent solution to hide these shortcomings is to create a drywall box.

As a result of creating such a box, the process of wallpapering is greatly simplified, and it is also possible to hide all the "blunders" that were made by the builders.

Our main task is to carry out all the stages of repair with our own hands, therefore, we will describe in detail the process of creating a drywall box. At the same time, you will be able to show your creativity and skills. We emphasize that working with drywall is quite simple and everyone can create the required elements from it.

The process of preparing for the manufacture of drywall boxes

The first step is to prime and paint the pipes, which will later be placed in our box. These operations are performed to protect pipes from the occurrence of corrosive processes, and also extend the service life. heating system your house or apartment. Each of these tasks does not require special knowledge or experience, so they can be completed without much difficulty.

Next, you need to deal with the elimination of holes in the ceiling that spoil the view. These holes are located next to the pipes leading to the upper floors. Sometimes these holes cause horror in the master, as they can be quite large and it seems that the builders simply did not take up work in this area. You can get rid of these holes using mounting foam and special plaster mixture. The last step preparatory cycle is to wait for the moment when all the solutions are dry.

Starting to make a box

When preparatory stage came to an end, it's time for the main part of the work - the manufacture of the box. It's one thing when the task is to cover a wall or other structure with plasterboard sheets, and another thing to build a certain structure from this material. Boxes are very often made in bathrooms and serve to cover pipes. Such an operation often precedes wall decoration. tiles. In this case, all the work is a little more complicated and we will consider a simpler option - creating a box for heating pipelines.

In the work, a mandatory item is the presence of profiles. They should be chosen in such a way that there are stiffeners. To solve our problem, a ceiling profile is perfect, which is easy to find in any hardware store. Very often you can find the same profiles with different stiffness coefficients. Rigid profiles should be chosen, as this will give structural strength. But you should not buy the most rigid profile, since in this case it will be problematic to screw a self-tapping screw into it at the stage of drywall construction. Even a screwdriver sometimes cannot cope with the toughest profiles, and you certainly won’t be able to twist it by hand. It is also worth saying that a very rigid profile, having greater thickness, will strongly spring, and at this time the self-tapping screw will repel the drywall from the profile, which greatly complicates the task. And if, in this case, you continue to screw in the screw, then this can lead to cracks in the drywall, and the head of the screw in this case will be strongly drowned. As a result, getting a destroyed hole, it will not be possible to achieve a strong fastening of the sheet of material.

It's time to move on to the process of making the box itself. This will require the presence of three vertical profiles, the height of which will be from floor to ceiling. You also need short jumpers that can be made from scraps. In our case, there is a 27x28 profile, which is perfect for making jumpers from it.

Consider the sequence of actions for the most optimal course of the process. Fixing two vertical profiles to the wall will not cause any difficulties, but the question immediately arises: how to fix the third profile? In this case, it is best to use fasteners that are used to work with profiles - the developers took care of us and saved our time. We fix a direct suspension under one profile, then you need to bend the ends. The entire surface of the hangers, as you can see, has a lot of prepared holes that will help you position the profile with high accuracy.

Creating a box will help us align the corner, so we need the most accurate guideline in our work, which will not allow us to go astray. Great solution there will be the use of a laser level, which has excellent accuracy and allows you to create strictly defined angles.

First, you should draw perpendicular lines on the floor. Errors in this matter cannot be allowed, even the slightest of its magnitude. Next, go directly to the walls. The vertical laser beam of our miracle level device will help you install two profiles on the walls with high accuracy, and also create all the necessary conditions for high-quality positioning of the third profile. This profile must be installed on the short side of the box. Its fastening should be carried out using a suspension. The level in this case allows you to perform tasks the best way and is an indispensable element in the manufacture of drywall boxes.

Note that each vertical profile, which seems to be firmly fixed to the wall, is capable of deforming. Therefore, to create a fortification that prevents the mentioned problem, we create horizontal jumpers. To do this, you need to make cuts along the bends of the profile with metal scissors. Then you need to bend the middle element perpendicularly. Having made several such jumpers, we fix them with self-tapping screws, which allows us to achieve high strength. Now our design is characterized by high stability and will not deform, which will help maintain the evenness of drywall sheets.

The moment has come when it is necessary to cut drywall. First of all, you need to cut out the elements intended for the wide side, then cut out the pieces for the narrow side. If you think about it, the sequence of preparing pieces of drywall is not of fundamental importance, and these operations can change quite successfully - the end result will not change.

Note that the fastening of drywall sheets to a box made of a profile is easier than the process of installing a structure from a profile. At this moment, you will feel that the finish line is already close and it will become more pleasant to work, because an excellent result awaits ahead.

The main inconvenience encountered during the installation of a box made of drywall is the operation of screwing self-tapping screws into inside, since the dimensions of the box are small and the screwdriver will not be able to crawl into all the necessary areas. Also, do not forget that drywall strips are quite flexible and can easily crack, therefore, when screwing screws, you should feel the applied force well and not overdo it. Indeed, otherwise, you will need to cut a new piece of material that will replace the piece that was broken due to strong pressure from the self-tapping screw. The distance from the edge of the drywall sheet to the self-tapping screw should not be less than 15 mm, otherwise the material will break easily.

Summing up, I would like to note that making a drywall box is a fairly simple task and it will not require you a lot of effort, time and special knowledge, as well as experience. Following this instruction, showing patience, ingenuity, accuracy, you can create a real masterpiece with right angles. In the future, the presence of such a box will positively affect the beauty of your interior. Having tried the manufacture of plasterboard figures, everyone will open up new possibilities and be able to create unique things that cannot be found anywhere else. This building technology is now available to everyone thanks to the availability detailed description process. Study, try and do not be afraid to make mistakes - then new heights in this area await you!

By using your imagination and gaining experience during the manufacture of a drywall box, you can create new solutions for your home by making, for example, boxes for pipes located in the bathroom. Each time, complicating the task, you gain invaluable experience, which in the future will help to carry out any elements using drywall. After all, this material is very easy to cut and allows you to make even complex figures out of it - it all depends only on the imagination of the master. Set yourself new tasks, achieve your goal and the repair will become a truly joyful event for you.